2005 Scandinavia and UK Book.pdf - jimrussell.id.au

DENMARK, SWEDEN, NORWAY 

AND THE 

UNITED KINGDOM 

APRIL - JUNE 2005 

Jim Russell


AND THE 


Part 1 – Scandinavia 


Jim Russell 

1

Contents 

Part 1 – Scandinavia..................................................................................... 1 

Contents ........................................................................................................ 3 

Itinerary - Scandinavia and UK - 2005 ........................................................ 5 

Part 1 - Scandinavia.................................................................................... 5 

Part 2 – England and Scotland ................................................................... 8 

Maps – Part 1 - Scandinavia ........................................................................ 9 

Maps – Part 2 – England and Scotland .................................................... 11 

Monday 18 April 2005 - Melbourne – London ................................... 13 

Denmark.................................................................................................... 13 

History ................................................................................................... 13 

Tuesday 19 April 2005 - London to Copenhagen.............................. 15 

Copenhagen................................................................................... 16 

Orientation .................................................................................. 16 

Copenhagen – History................................................................ 17 

Copenhagen – Attractions.......................................................... 19 

Christianshavn & Christiania 19 

Latin Quarter 19 

Nationalmuseet 20 

Rosenborg Slot 20 

Slotsholmen 20 

Wednesday 20 April 2005 - Copenhagen and Helsingor .................. 21 

Thursday 21 April 2005 - Roskilde .................................................... 25 

Roskilde – 1000 years.................................................................... 25 

Royal city and ecclesiastical centre 25 

Friday 22 April 2005 - Copenhagen................................................... 28 

Saturday 23 April 2005 - Odense ...................................................... 32 

Odense........................................................................................... 32 

The history of Odense ................................................................ 32 

St. Knud 33 

Powerful merchants 33 

Development and industry 34 

Town hall built 34 

Culture 35 

Sweden ..................................................................................................... 38 

History ................................................................................................... 39 

Attractions.............................................................................................. 40 

Stockholm................................................................................... 40 

Gothenburg................................................................................. 40 

Vadstena .................................................................................... 40 

Visby........................................................................................... 40 

Öland .......................................................................................... 40 

Sunday 24 April 2005 - Copenhagen – Bornholm - Kalmar .............. 41 

Bornholm History............................................................................ 41 

Ancient times 41 

The Swedish War 42 

After the bombs 42 

Monday 25 April 2005 - Copenhagen – Kalmar ................................ 44 

Kalmar............................................................................................ 44 

History 44 

Tuesday 26 April 2005 - Copenhagen – Stockholm.......................... 49 

Stockholm ...................................................................................... 49 

Orientation .................................................................................. 49 

History ........................................................................................ 50 

Attractions................................................................................... 51 

Haga Park 51 

Kungliga Slottet 52 

Skansen 52 

Stadshuset 52 

Wednesday 27 April 2005 - Stockholm ............................................. 54 

Wednesday 27 April 2005 - Stockholm ............................................. 58 

Norway...................................................................................................... 61 

History ................................................................................................... 62 

Friday 29 April 2005 - Stockholm to Oslo.......................................... 63 

Saturday 30 April 2005 - Oslo ........................................................... 64 

Odin on Sleipner 64 

Sunday 1 May 2005 - Oslo ................................................................ 68 

Monday 2 May 2005 - Oslo to Balestrand ......................................... 72 

Tuesday 3 May 2005 - Balestrand..................................................... 75 

Wednesday 4 May 2005 – Balestrand to Bergen.............................. 78 

Thursday 5 May 2005 - Bergen - Cruise Day 1................................. 81 

The Hanseatic League 82 

Friday 6 May 2005 - Cruise Day 2..................................................... 84 

Saturday 7 May 2005 – Cruise Day 3................................................ 88 

Sunday 8 May 2005 - Cruise Day 4................................................... 91 

Saltstraumen – The Worlds Strongest Maelstrom. .................... 93 

The Tidal Current 93 

Fishing 94 

Wild Life 94 

3

History 95 

Monday 9 May 2005 - Cruise Day 5 .................................................. 96 

Trondenes 97 

Tromsø – History............................................................................ 98 

Tuesday 10 May 2005 - Cruise Day 6 ............................................. 101 

Wednesday 11 May 2005 - Cruise Day 7........................................ 104 

Thursday 12 May 2005 - Cruise Day 8............................................ 107 

Friday 13 May 2005 - Cruise Day 9................................................. 110 

Saturday 14 May 2005 - Cruise Day 10 .......................................... 112 

Sunday 15 May 2005 - Cruise Day 11............................................. 114 

Monday 16 May 2005 - Cruise Day 12 ............................................ 118 

Tuesday 17 May 2005 - Bergen ...................................................... 120 

Constitution Day ....................................................................... 120 

Part 2 – England and Scotland................................................................ 125 

Wednesday 18 May 2005 - Bergen to Newcastle, England ............ 127 

Thursday 19 May May 2005 - Newcastle ........................................ 127 

Friday 20 May 2005 - Newcastle to Kirkcaldy ................................. 131 

Saturday 21 May 2005 - Kirkcaldy................................................... 133 

Sunday 22 May 2005 - Kirkcaldy to Sheffield.................................. 134 

Monday 23 May 2005 - Sheffield..................................................... 134 

Tuesday 24 May 2005 - Sheffield to Shifnal (Ironbridge) ................ 138 

Wednesday 25 May 2005 - Ironbridge ............................................ 142 

Sunday 22 May 2005 -..................................................................... 144 

Friday 27 May 2005 - Cheltenham .................................................. 145 

Saturday 28 May 2005 - Cheltenham to Clevedon.......................... 148 

Sunday 29 May 2005 - Clevedon to Oxford .................................... 150 

Monday 30 May 2005 - Oxford to London ....................................... 153 

Tuesday 31 May 2005 - London...................................................... 154 

Ground Force – African Garden 156 

Enlightenment 157 

Ferdinand Columbus: Renaissance Collector 157 

Wednesday 01/Friday 03 May 2005 - London – New York – Los 

Angeles - Melbourne........................................................................ 158 

Web References - Scandinavia ............................................................... 159 

Web References – England and Scotland.............................................. 161 

Appendix ................................................................................................... 163 

Web Extracts........................................................................................... 163 

Bornholm ............................................................................................. 164 

Templar churches – Bornholm Island ................................................. 166 

Conflicts in the Barents Region........................................................... 168 

Flåm railway ........................................................................................ 171 

Norwegian Glacier Museum ................................................................ 173 

Norwegian Coastal Voyage - Hurtigruten............................................ 177 

Nordkapp ............................................................................................. 182 

Welcome to North Cape - 71° North ........................................... 182 

Polaria - an Arctic experience! ............................................................ 187 

The history of Norway ......................................................................... 191 

Bergen – History.................................................................................. 201 

Christiansborg Palace ......................................................................... 202 

Rosenborg Castle................................................................................ 208 

Amalienborg Museum ......................................................................... 210 

History of the Vasa .............................................................................. 211 

Trondheim the History ......................................................................... 216 

4

Itinerary - Scandinavia and UK - 2005 

Part 1 - Scandinavia 

DATE Day Destination Transport Accommodation 

Mon 18 April 01 Mel - Copenhagen QF9 15:30 

Tues19 April 02 Arrive Copenhagen QF3431 07:05 Ansgar Hotel 

Colbjornsensgade 29 

Copenhagen 1653 

+45 33 21 21 96 

Wed 20 April 03 Copenhagen Ansgar Hotel 

Thur 21 April 04 Copenhagen Ansgar Hotel 

Fri 22 April 05 Copenhagen Ansgar Hotel 

Sat 23 April 06 Copenhagen - Odense - Train 08:00 

Ansgar Hotel 

Copenhagen 

Return 17:06 

Sun 24 April 07 Copenhagen – Bornholm – 

Malmo - Kalmar 

Train 06;39 Arrive Ystad 07:55 

Ferry 

Ystad – Bornholm 

08:35 – 09:45 

Bornholm – Ystad 15:00 – 16:10 

Local Train 

Ystad – Malmo 18:08 –18:55 

Train 

Malmo – Alvesta 19:13 – 20:32 

Alvesta – Kalmar 20:42 – 22:00 

First Hotel Witt Kalmar 

Sodra Langgatan 42 

SE-392 31 Kalmar 

+46 48 01 52 50 

Mon 25 April 08 Kalmar First Hotel Witt Kalmar 

Tues 26 April 09 Kalmar - Stockholm Train 

Kalmar – Alvesta 07:06 – 08:25 

Alvesta – Stockholm 

08:34 – 11:40 

Lord Nelson Hotel 

Vasterlanggaten 22 

Stockholm 11128 

+ 46 8 50640120 

Wed 27 April 10 Stockholm Lord Nelson Hotel 

Thurs 28 April 11 Stockholm Lord Nelson Hotel 

Fri 29 April 12 Stockholm – Oslo 

Meet Barb at Tulip Inn 

Rainbow Opera 1830 

Train 

Stockholm – Oslo 07:00 – 11:49 

Tulip Inn Rainbow Munch 

Munchs Gate 5, Oslo 0130 

+47 23 21 96 00 

Sat 30 April 13 Oslo Tulip Inn Rainbow Munch 

Sun 01 May 14 Oslo Tulip Inn Rainbow Munch 

Mon 02 May 15 King of Fjords. Oslo – 

Myrdal – Flåm – Balestrand 

Retain Voucher and 

Combination Ticket 

Train 61 

Oslo – Myrdal - 08:11 – 12:53 

Myrdal – Flåm - 13:02 – 14:00 

Ferry 

Flåm – Balestrand 15:30 – 16:55 

Kviknes Hotel 

Boks 24 

N-6898 Balestrand 

+47 57 69 42 00 

5

Tues 03 May 16 Fjærland Glacier M/s Fjærland 08:15 Kviknes Hotel Balestrand 

Wed 04 May 17 Balestrand - Bergen Ferry 

16:45 – 22:00 

Neptun Hotel 

Valkensdorfgae 8 

N-5012 Bergen 

+47 55 30 68 00 

Thur 05 May 18 Start Hurtigruten – Cruise Port Arrive Depart 

Bergen 

Bergen 20:00 

Fri 06 May 19 Cruise Day 2 Florø 02:00 02:15 

Maløy 04:15 04:30 

Torvik 07:15 07:30 

Ålesund 08:45 09:30 

Geiranger 13:30 

Ålesund 17:45 18:45 

Sat 07 May 20 Cruise Day 3 

Meet Nam at Music 

Museum 

Molde 21:15 22:00 

Kristiansund 01:30 01:45 

Trondheim 08:15 12:00 

Rorvik 20:45 21:15 

Sun 08 May 21 Cruise Day 4 Bronnøysund 00:30 01:00 

Sandnessjøen 03:40 04:15 

Nesna 05:25 05:30 

Ornes 09:00 09:30 

Bodø 12:30 15:00 

Stamsund 19:00 19:30 

Svolvær 21:00 22:00 

Mon 09 May 22 Cruise Day 5 Stokmarknes 00:30 01:00 

Sortland 02:15 03:00 

Risøyhamn 04:15 04:30 

Harstad 06:45 08:00 

Finnsnes 11:00 11:45 

Tromsø 14:30 18:30 

Skjervøy 22:00 22:45 

Tues 10 May 23 Cruise Day 6 Oksfjord 01:45 02:15 

Hammerfest 05:15 06:45 

Havøysund 09:30 09:45 

Honningsvåg 11:45 15:15 

Kjollefjord 17:30 17:45 

Mehamn 19:45 20:00 

Berlevag 22:30 22:45 

Wed 11 May 24 Cruise Day 7 Batsfjord 00:30 01:00 

Vardø 04:00 04:15 

Vadsø 07:30 08:15 

Kirkenes 10:00 12:45 

Vardø 16:00 17:00 

Batsfjord 20:15 20:30 

Berlevag 22:15 22:30 

6

Thurs 12 May 25 Cruise Day 8 Mehamn 01:15 01:15 

Kjollefjord 03:15 03:30 

Honningsvåg 05:45 06:15 

Havøysund 08:15 08:30 

Hammerfest 11:15 12:45 

Oksfjord 15:40 15:45 

Skjervøy 19:15 19:45 

Tromsø 23:45 

Fri 13 May 26 Cruise Day 9 Tromsø 01:30 

Finnsnes 02:15 04:45 

Harstad 08:00 08:30 

Risøyhamn 10:45 11:00 

Sortland 12:30 13:00 

Stokmarknes 14:15 15:15 

Svolvær 18:30 19:30 

Stamsund 21:00 21:30 

Sat 14 May 27 Cruise Day 10 Bodø 01:30 04:00 

Ørnes 07:00 07:15 

Nesna 11:00 11:15 

Sandnessjøen 12:30 13:30 

Brønnøysund 16:50 17:00 

Rørvik 20:30 21:30 

Sun 15 May 28 Cruise Day 11 Trondheim 06:30 10:00 

Kristiansund 16:30 17:00 

Molde 20:30 21:30 

Mon 16 May 29 Cruise Day 12 

End Hurtigruten – Cruise 

Bergen 

Ålesund 24:00 

Ålesund 00:00 00:45 

Torvik 02:00 02:15 

Maløy 05:00 05:45 

Florø 08:00 08:15 

Bergen 14:30 

Rainbow Hotel Rosenkrantz 

Rosenkrantzgaten 7 

N-5003 Bergen 

47 55 30 14 00 

Tues 17 May 30 Bergen 

Wed 18 May 31 Bergen to Newcastle UK Bergen – Stockholm AY684 11:35 Isabel Sutcliffe’s 

Stockholm – Heathrow 

BA779 15:40 

Heathrow – Newcastle 

BA1338 20:45 

Thur 19 May 2005 32 Isabel’s 

7

Part 2 – England and Scotland 

Fri 20 May 33 Newcastle - Kirkaldy Car Pickup 09:00 Hertz – 

Dave and Helen’s 

Newcastle Airport 

Sat 21May 34 Kirkaldy Car Dave and Helen’s 

Sun 22 May 35 Kirkaldy - Sheffield Car Premier Travel Inn, 

Sheffield (Arena), 

Attercliffe Common Rd, 

Sheffield, S. Yorkshire 

S9 2LU 

Tel: +44 (0)870 238 3316 

Fax: 0114 2423703 

Mon 23 May 36 Sheffield Car 

Tues 24 May 37 Sheffield – Shropshire Car 

John & Ann Richardson 

(Ironbridge) 

Wed 25 May 38 Ironbridge Gorge Car John & Ann Richardson 

Thurs 26 May 39 Ironbridge - Cheltenham Car Jo Bailey’s 

Fri 27 May 40 Cheltenham Car Jo’s 

Sat 28 May 41 Cheltenham -Bristol 

(Clevedon) 

Car Visit Paddy Dalloway – 

Lunch 11:45 

Sun 29 May 42 Bristol - Oxford Car Jennie and Peter 

McFadden 

Mon 30 May 43 Oxford - London Car - Drop off 08:30 

35 Edgeware Road 

Central London 

1 day travel card 

Zones 1 to 6 

6 pounds 

Visit Joan and Harry at Bromley 

Premier Travel Inn, London 

(County Hall), 

Belvedere Road 

London 

SE1 7PB 

Tel: 08702383300 

Fax: 02079021619 

Visit Joan and Harry at 

Bromley 

Tues 31 May 44 London Premier Travel Inn, London 

(County Hall) 

Wed 01 June 45 UK to New York – 

Melbourne 

Depart Heathrow 1025 

Heathrow – JFK BA175 10:25 

JFK - LAX 

QF0108 

19:20 – 22:10 

LAX – MEL 

QF0094 23:40 

Fri 03 June Arrive Melbourne 07:55 

8

Maps – Part 1 - Scandinavia 

9

Maps – Part 2 – England and Scotland 

11

Monday 18 April 2005 - Melbourne – London Day 01 

Depart Melbourne 15:30, on QF0009, 

on time for Singapore, London and 

Copenhagen. A smooth flight to 

Singapore. Eat dinner but cant be 

bothered with refreshments before we 

land. The food is no worse than 

before, it’s just not interesting enough 

to eat if you’re not hungry. 

Denmark 

Short stopover in Singapore was quite pleasant. The 

British Airways – Qantas lounge has been refurbished 

and enlarged and is bright and cheery with much better 

catering. Rejoin the plane for the flight onto London. Skip 

supper and settle down to try to get some sleep. Must 

have dozed off, as we seemed to be half way there when 

I checked our current position. Flight was a little rougher 

than usual. 

Arrived London just after 05:00, Tuesday, grey and 

raining. I hope it improves before I return to the UK in a 

month’s time. 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/denmark/ 

Full country name: Kingdom of Denmark 

Area: 43,094 sq km 

Population: 5.38 million 

Capital City: Copenhagen 

People: 95% Danish; 5% foreign nationals 

Language: Danish, English, German 

Religion: Lutheran 

Government: constitutional monarchy 

Head of State: Queen Margrethe II 

Head of Government: Prime Minister Anders Fogh Rasmussen 

GDP: US$155.3 billion 

GDP per capita: US$28,900 

Annual Growth: 1.5% 

Inflation: 2.5% 

Major Industries: Agricultural products, grains, meat and dairy, fish, beer, oil 

and gas, home electronics and furniture 

Major Trading Partners: EU (esp. Germany, Sweden, UK, Netherlands, 

France and Italy), USA 

Member of EU: Yes 

History 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/denmark/history.htm 

Nomadic hunters followed the lichen and moss-eating reindeer into postglacial 

Denmark. The reindeer heard 'go north' voices, but the Stone Age 

hunters stayed put, sowing seeds in the ash of slash-and-burn fields, fencing 

in stock animals and burying their dead vertically. Skill and artistry flowered in 

the Bronze Age from 1800 BC, trade routes paddled all the way south and the 

most beautiful and valuable objects were buried in bogs as sacrificial 

offerings. Iron clanged in from 500 BC and was domestically available, 

leading to the development of large agricultural communities. Present-day 

Denmark can trace its linguistic and cultural roots back to when the region 

was settled by the Danes, a tribe that is thought to have migrated south from 

Sweden around 500 AD. 

In the late 9th century, warriors led by the Norwegian Viking chieftain 

Hardegon conquered the Jutland peninsula. The Danish monarchy, which 

claims to be the world's oldest, dates back to Hardegon's son, Gorm the Old, 

who established his reign early in the 10th century. Gorm's son, Harald 

13

Bluetooth, completed the conquest of the Danes, speeding their conversion to 

Christianity. Bluetooth's gob-stopping successors, Forkbeard and sons, got 

the wood on England, setting up shop and throne and living the sweet life of 

Anglo-Dane monarchs. They kept it together for half a century or so, but as 

Viking power waned, the borders of the Danish kingdom shrank back to 

Denmark. 

Blackadderish strife, plots, counter plots and assassinations marked the 

medieval period. By the late 14th century, upstart dynasties intermarried, 

eventually forming the Kalmar Union under fair Queen Magrethe; Denmark, 

Norway and Sweden, now all bunked in together, started to exasperate one 

another. Sweden was particularly peeved by the profligate Danish spending 

on wars, and the union dissolved in 1523 when Sweden elected Gustav Vasa 

as its king. Norway, however, was to remain under Danish rule for another 

three centuries. 

In the 16th century the Reformation swept through the country, leaving burnt 

churches and civil warfare in its wake. The fighting ended in 1536 with the 

ousting of the powerful Catholic church and the establishment of a Danish 

Lutheran church headed by the monarchy. King Christian IV ruled for the first 

half of the 17th century, undermining fabulous trade and wealth creation by 

leading his subjects into the disastrous Thirty Years War with Sweden. 

Denmark lost land and money and the king an eye. Even more disastrous 

were the losses to Sweden incurred some decades later by Christian's 

successor, King Frederick III. Denmark emerged slowly from these wars, 

focusing on civil development and reform. 

During the Napoleonic Wars Britain attacked Copenhagen twice, inflicting 

heavy damage on the Danish fleet in 1801 and leaving much of Copenhagen 

ablaze in 1807. The Swedes then took advantage of a weakened Denmark, 

successfully demanding that Denmark cede Norway to them. The 19th 

century might have started off lean, dismal and dominated by a small 

Frenchman with a big ego, but by the 1830s Denmark had awakened to a 

cultural revolution in the arts, philosophy and literature. A democratic 

movement in Denmark led to the adoption of a constitution on 5 June 1849, 

which in turn led to the formation of a Danish constitutional monarchy. 

Germany took control of Schleswig in southern Jutland, after its inhabitants, 

people of both Danish and German heritage, revolted against the new 

constitution. 

Neutral in WWI, Denmark reaffirmed its neutrality at the outbreak of WWII; 

but, on 9 April 1940, with German warplanes flying over Copenhagen, 

Denmark surrendered to Germany. The Danes were able to cling to a degree 

of autonomy, but after three years the Germans ended the pretence and took 

outright control. Although the island of Bornholm was heavily bombarded by 

Soviet forces, the rest of Denmark emerged from WWII relatively unscathed. 

Under the leadership of the Social Democrats, a comprehensive social 

welfare state was established. Denmark is still providing its citizens with 

extensive cradle-to-grave security. 

When Norway broke its political ties with Denmark in the early 19th century, 

the former Norwegian colonies of Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands 

stayed under Danish administration. Iceland, under Danish rule since 1380, 

declared itself an independent state in 1918, although foreign policy was still 

controlled from Copenhagen. Iceland became completely independent in 

1944. The Kingdom of Denmark still includes Greenland and the Faroe 

Islands, but both are essentially self-governing. The Faroe Islands has had 

home rule since 1948, Greenland since 1979. In part because Denmark 

retains responsibility for their banking, defence and foreign relations, 

Greenland and the Faroe Islands each have two parliamentary 

representatives in the Danish Folketing. Unlike Denmark, however, neither 

Greenland nor the Faroe Islands is part of the EU. 

Although Denmark voted to join the European Community (now the European 

Union) in 1973, the Danes have been hesitant to support expansion of the 

European Union (EU). Indeed, when the Maastricht Treaty, which established 

the terms of a European economic and political union, came up for ratification 

in Denmark in June 1992, Danish voters rejected it by a margin of 51% to 

49%. After being granted exemptions from the Maastricht Treaty's common 

defence and single currency provisions, the Danes, by a narrow majority, 

voted to accept the treaty in a second referendum held in May 1993. 

In September 2000 the Danes signalled a deeper discontent with European 

integration when they rejected adoption of the euro, despite strong support for 

the pan-European currency by the government and business leaders. An 

election in November 2001 brought a centre-right, conservative coalition to 

power with a campaign that focused on immigration. Fears generated in the 

wake of the September 11 terrorist attacks on the USA were an important 

factor. The debate over Denmark's position in the world continues, especially 

in regard to Europe, immigration, Denmark's role in Iraq and the rise of the far 

right. 

14

Tuesday 19 April 2005 - London to Copenhagen Day 02 

Radhus - Copenhagen 

Flight is scheduled for 07:05 so I 

settle in the BA Terraces Lounge and 

use their internet connections to 

check emails. David Hart at Qantas 

Travel has found suitable flights for 

me to visit Que and Hans in Dhaka 

before I go to Burma. Organizer of the 

Burma trip has confirmed my name is 

on the list. Provided he gets the 

numbers the trip should be on. 

Hans Christian Andersen Boulevard 

Flight to Copenhagen is delayed a few minutes due to 

tarmac traffic and other planes queued to take off. This 

does not matter too much as I was going to arrive at the 

hotel a bit early to check in. Flight is good and as we 

approach Copenhagen the weather clears and I have a 

good view of the flat farmland of Denmark and the 

connecting Copenhagen and Malmö in Sweden. 

A short wait for the bag, then through passport control, 

get some cash and onto the train to the city centre that 

runs every 10 minutes. Map for the hotel is not good and 

I walk a little further than necessary to the Ansgar Hotel. 

By now it is 11:30 and the room is ready. It is clean, 

comfortable and the hotel is close to the Central Station. 

After freshening up I head for the tourist information 

centre to buy a Copenhagen Card for travel on the public 

transport and admissions to many museums and other 

attractions. 

Inderhavn 

I planned to walk around a little to orientate myself and 

finished up walking for about 3 hours along Hans 

Christian Anderson’s Boulevard, it is the 200 th 

anniversary of his birth, past the town hall, across the 

bridge and along Amager Boulevard, passing the remains 

of the former defensive bastions of the city. 

I have spotted the unusual steeple of the Vor Freslers 

Kirke (The Church of Our Savior) and cross a foot bridge 

over the Stadsgraven, formerly part of the defensive 

moat, and head toward it. I wander through residential 

street and finally come to it. 

This is not hard, Copenhagen is very flat and bicycle 

friendly and landmarks can been seen from many 

locations. Bicycles have right of way, cars actually stop 

for them, and you step off the footpath onto a bicycle path 

at your own risk. 

15

Hans Christian Andersen 

The kirke is open and I go in. Inside is 

a large open and simple space with 

an ornate alter and a very ornately 

carved organ. Some one was playing 

and it sounded very good. The tower 

stands 90m tall and is built of wood 

sheathed with copper and the 

protective railings of the external 

stairs spiraling to the top are gilded so 

that from a distance the tower is 

spectacular. 

Christianshavns Kanal 

Vor Freslers Kirke is in the district of Christianshavn and 

nearby is another, Christians Kirke. I find it easily. It is 

located amongst new apartments and very modern office 

buildings. I walk west along the bank of the Inderhaven 

thinking I will be able to cross the Christianshavns Kanal 

and continue my walk back to the hotel. Wrong, I have to 

retrace my steps. 

Back at the hotel I have a short rest before going out to 

get something to eat. 

It has been a pleasant sunny day, but the breeze has 

been cool, and now, at about 1900 it is starting to get 

cold. Some light snow is forecast for tomorrow, we’ll see. 

Copenhagen 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/copenh 

agen/index.htm 

Copenhagen has been Denmark's capital for 600 years. 

It's an appealing and largely low-rise city comprised of 

block after block of period six-storey buildings. Church 

steeples punctuate the skyline, with only a couple of 

modern hotels marring the view. 

No matter what your interests, Copenhagen has a whole 

lot of sightseeing and entertainment on offer. Historic or 

modern, gay or straight, sleek shops or cosy cafes - it's 

all nestled right in the heart of a compact city and 

presented with typical Scandinavian assurance and flair. 

Area: 88 sq km 

Population: 662,000 

Country: Denmark 

Time Zone: GMT/UTC +1 (Central Euroepan Time) 

Telephone Area Code: There are no area codes in 

Denmark; just dial the eight-digit number. 

Orientation 

Christianshavns Kanal 

Copenhagen sits on the east coast of Denmark's largest 

island, Zealand (Sjælland). A prominent point of 

orientation in the city is the main rail station, Central 

Station (Hoved Banegården), which is bordered to the 

west by the primary hotel precinct and to the northeast by 

the longstanding entertainment attraction of Tivoli. Just 

16

north of Tivoli is Rådhuspladsen, the 

central city square and the main 

terminus for the local bus network. To 

the east is the city's waterfront, 

including the canal-riddled district of 

Christianshavn. 

Windmill - Kastallet - Copenhagen 

Kastallet - Copenhagen 

Vor Freslers Kirke 

Copenhagen boasts the world's 

longest mall, Strøget, which is an 

amalgamation of five streets - 

Frederiksberggade, Nygade, 

Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv and 

Østergade - running right through the 

centre of the city between 

Rådhuspladsen and Kongens Nytorv, 

the square at the head of the Nyhavn 

canal. 

Church and Parade Ground - Kastallet - 

Copenhagen 

Copenhagen – History 


agen/history.htm 

Commandant’s Office - Kastallet - Copenhagen 

In the centre of Copenhagen is a small, canal-encircled 

island called Slotsholmen, which serves as Denmark's 

governmental seat. It was here in 1167 that Bishop 

Absalom constructed a small fortress within a 

harbourside village to try and stifle regular raids by the 

German Wends on the east coast of Zealand, thereby 

laying the foundations for the future capital of Denmark. 

The fortress inflated the village's sense of self-worth, 

17

causing it to grow significantly and to 

adopt the name Købmandshavn 

(Merchant's Port) - the moniker was 

eventually shortened to København. 

observatory and still regularly used for that purpose - and 

Børsen, home to Denmark's stock exchange, were added 

in the first half of the 17th century by the aesthetically 

minded ruler Christian IV. 

18 

Vor Freslers Kirke 

The fortifications built by the bishop 

were destroyed during an attack on 

the town by ransackers from northern 

Germany in 1369 and work on a new 

defensive structure, Copenhagen 

Castle, began seven years later. The 

city's fate as the capital of Denmark 

was secured in 1416 when the 

reigning monarch, King Erik of 

Pomerania, moved into his sturdy new 

castle quarters. Grand Renaissance 

buildings such as the Rundetårn 

(Round Tower) - established as an 

Entrance - Kastallet - Copenhagen 

Copenhagen grew swiftly in size and population, and by 

the beginning of the 18th century had around 60,000 

people living within its confines. The next 100 years 

weren't kind to the burgeoning capital, however. By 1711 

nearly one-third of the population had died from bubonic 

plague, and a pair of fires (in 1728 and 1795) turned 

large areas of the city, including most of its wooden 

buildings, to ash. To top it all off, in the midst of the 

Napoleonic Wars in 1807, Britain's Admiral Horatio 

Nelson decided he'd had enough of Denmark profiting 

from wartime foreign trade, and of rumours that the 

neutral Danes were considering putting their naval fleet 

at Napoleon's disposal, and ordered a savage 

bombardment of the city. Much of Copenhagen went up 

in flames (again) and the British rubbed salt into the 

wound by confiscating the entire national fleet. 

Port of Copenhagen 

Several decades later, Copenhagen had turned its 

attention away from the atrocities of war and was 

concentrating on the cultural revolution that was daubing, 

scribbling and philosophising its way across the country. 

The philosopher Søren Kierkegaard, the writer Hans 

Christian Andersen, the verbose theologian Nikolaj 

Frederik Severin Grundtvig, and Christoffer Wilhelm 

Eckersberg, founder of the Danish School of Art, all 

contributed to this artistic 'Golden Age'. Copenhagen 

benefited physically from the revolution through the grand 

neoclassical statues bestowed on it by sculptor Bertel 

Thorvaldsen. 

After Denmark became a democracy in 1849, it went 

through a lengthy and fairly peaceful period of economic 

development, not counting a political hiccup in 1864 

when a short-lived war was successfully waged on it by 

Prussia. 

Denmark managed to retain neutral status during WWI, 

but that ploy didn't work during WWII; the Nazis marched 

on Copenhagen on 9 April, 1940, and ended up 

occupying it and the rest of the country for five years. 

Although it survived the war relatively unscathed, 

Copenhagen was in a dishevelled state by war's end:

many of its neighbourhoods were 

slums. The city embarked on an 

ambitious renewal program and 

extended cradle-to-grave social 

security programs. Student protests in 

the late 1960s led to the proclamation 

of a 'free state of Christiania' on a 

military base outside Copenhagen in 

1971, operating under communal 

property rules. It attracted so many 

people - up to 1000 - that the 

government was forced to allow it to 

continue indefinitely as a 'social 

experiment'. 

Bare Trees - Marienlyst Slot 

Today, Copenhagen is flourishing as 

a centre of culture and the arts, and 

has had its historic skyline marred by 

only a few high-rise developments. An early highpoint of 

the new millennium for the Danish people would have to 

be the victory of the local Olsen Brothers in the 2000 

Eurovision Song Contest, ensuring the staging of the 

2001 gala event in Copenhagen. In July 2000 the 

Øresund Fixed Link, a massive 16km (10mi) bridgetunnel, 

road-rail link between Copenhagen and the 

Swedish port of Malmö was opened; it is the first direct 

land link between Denmark and the rest of Scandinavian 

Europe. The death of the popular matriarch of the royal 

family, Queen Ingrid, in November 2000, was a low point 

for the country. In late 2001, for the first time in half a 

century, this liberal, tolerant country voted in a right-wing 

government on a platform of stronger immigration laws. 

Copenhagen was touched by royal pageantry in May 

2004 when Crown Prince Frederik married Australian 

Mary Donaldson. 

Nyboder 

Copenhagen – Attractions 


agen/attractions.htm 

Christianshavn & Christiania 

One of the highlights of the canal-punctured district of 

Christianshavn is Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour's 

Church), topped by a 95m (311ft), 400-step spiral steeple 

which affords breathtaking views over the city. On the 

eastern side of the district is the self-labelled 'progressive' 

community of Christiania. 

Christiania started life as a military camp before being 

abandoned and taken over in 1971 by ambitious 

squatters who proclaimed their own 'free state'. 

It never achieved full independence but still enjoys status 

as a rent- and tax-free enclave and a lively, arts-soaked 

environment. You can stroll or cycle through the area 

(cars aren't allowed) and check out the local craft market 

or organic food eateries - informative guided tours are 

offered daily throughout summer. 

Latin Quarter 

Copenhagen's Latin Quarter surrounds the old campus of 

Copenhagen University and brims with pedestrians, cafes 

and bookshops. Kultorvet, a plaza just to the north of the 

Latin Quarter, is particularly busy during summer, when 

its beer gardens and produce stalls are well attended, 

and when buskers will endeavour to win your patronage. 

Directly opposite the university grounds is Vor Frue Kirke 

(Our Lady's Church), the city's striking neoclassical 

cathedral which was originally built in the late 12th 

century and then rebuilt three times after succumbing to 

various pesky fires. The interior is decorated with sculptor 

Bertel Thorvaldsen's acclaimed statues of Christ and the 

12 apostles. 

Good views of the city's rooftops are available from the 

summit of the Rundetårn (Round Tower), a 35m-high 

(115ft) pile of bricks a few blocks east of the Latin 

Quarter. The Rundetårn was erected as an observatory 

in 1642 and is still used by amateur astronomers in the 

19

wintertime, qualifying it as the oldest 

functioning observatory in Europe. 

Christians Kirke 

Nationalmuseet 

Nationalmuseet (the National 

Museum) is a must-see for anyone 

who wants a comprehensive 

grounding in Danish history and 

culture. True to its name, 

Nationalmuseet has the biggest 

collection of Danish historical artefacts 

in the country. On Sundays in summer 

the ambience is enhanced by free 

chamber music concerts. 

Nationalmuseet has dibs on virtually every antiquity found 

on Danish soils, whether it was unearthed by a farmer 

ploughing his fields or a government-sponsored 

archaeological dig. 

The artefacts date from the Upper Palaeolithic period to 

the mid-19th century. Highlights include the Sun Chariot, 

which is over 3500 years old, and an exhibition of 3000- 

year-old bronze lur (Danish horns). 

Rosenborg Slot 

Rosenborg Slot houses a museum and the treasury 

where the royal regalia and jewels are kept. Downstairs is 

a public viewing room where you can marvel at incredible 

jewellery. 

It was built in Dutch Renaissance style by Christian IV to 

serve as his summer home. A century later Frederik IV, 

who felt cramped at Rosenborg, built a roomier palace 

north of the city in the town of Fredensborg. 

The 24 rooms in the castle's upper levels are 

chronologically arranged, housing the furnishings and 

portraits of each monarch from Christian IV to Frederik 

VII. However, the main attraction lies on the lower level, 

where the dazzling collection of crown jewels are 

displayed. 

These include Christian IV's ornately designed crown; the 

jewel-studded sword of Christian III; and Queen 

Margrethe II's emeralds and pearls, which are kept here 

when the queen is not wearing them to official functions. 

These items are considered such a national treasure that 

the queen is not permitted to take the royal jewels with 

her when she travels outside Denmark. 

Slotsholmen 

Slotsholmen is a groovy island connected to the rest of 

Copenhagen by small bridges, and is the place that 

Denmark's national government calls home. Slotsholmen 

attracts large numbers of visitors who come to check out 

the palatial (literally) government office. 

The original Christiansborg palace was constructed in the 

1730s to replace the pokey Copenhagen Castle and 

several buildings, namely the royal stables and edifices 

surrounding the main courtyard, date from this time. 

Folketinget, the parliamentary chamber, can be toured on 

Sunday year-round, as well as on weekdays over 

summer, and this includes a peek at Wanderer's Hall, 

which contains the original copy of Denmark's 

Constitution. 

For sheer Renaissance grandness, De Kongelige 

Repræsentationslokaler (the Royal Reception Chambers) 

won't disappoint - it's where royal banquets are scoffed 

and heads of state entertained. Underneath the palace 

are the excavated ruins of two earlier castles, including 

Bishop Absalom's original 1167 effort. 

Frederick’s Church – The Marble Church - 

Copenhagen 

20

Wednesday 20 April 2005 - Copenhagen and Helsingor Day 03 

The Little Mermaid - Copenhagen 

Seeing the sights in Copenhagen and 

around requires careful planning. 

Many of the museums, palaces, 

churches and galleries are open for 

quite limited hours. Most open at 

10:00 and close at 16:00. Fortunately 

most are open on Monday unlike the 

rest of Europe. 

Today I plan to head for Helsingor 

and the Kronborg Castle, the fabled 

Elsinore of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. 

The castle opens at 11:00 so I start off with a visit to the 

fortified Kastellet and the statue of The Little Mermaid at 

the entrance to Copenhagen harbour. 

The Kastellet is a five sided earth mound with cannon 

emplacements on bastions at each corner, enabling 

defenders to fire on any invaders. Inside are buildings 

that were previously barracks buildings and now appear 

to be apartments. There is still a military presence, a 

guardhouse and small number of soldiers in uniform 

indicating the area is still a military site. 

Nearby is St Albans church, a parish of the Anglican 

Church of Gibraltar. 

Next to the church is the Fountain of Gefion. This 

fountain has recently been fully restored and 

commemorates the Myth of Gefion. 

Gelion Fountain - Copenhagen 

In the Nordic mythology Gefion is the goddess of 

cultivation of land and the protectress of the virgins. The 

myth says that from his town Odense on Funen the god 

Odin sent Gefion to Sweden to find him more land. There 

she met the mythical king Gylfe who promised her the 

land she could plough out of Sweden in one day and one 

night if she would sleep with him. Hereafter Gefion went 

to the giants’ house in Jotunheim in Norway and had four 

giant sons with a giant. She turned the four sons into 

oxen, hitched them to a plough and ploughed a great 

piece of land out of Sweden in the time she was given. 

She placed the piece of land in Øresund between Funen 

and Sweden. The hole she left in Sweden was filled with 

water and thus a lake was created. According to the 

legend the is the Vänern Lake. If you look at a map you 

can see the Vänern actually has the exact same size and 

shape as Zealand. 

I have some time before I need catch the train and walk 

to a church with a very large dome that I can see from the 

ramparts of the Kastellet. It proves to be Frederick’s 

Church, commenced by King Frederick V as the centre 

point of a fashionable redevelopment of an area to the 

East of the existing buildings of King Christian IV, 

including the naval housing complex of Nyboder. 

Commenced in 1749 work stopped in 1770 as costs 

escalated. The church was finally consecrated in 1894. It 

is more commonly known as the ‘Marble Church’, 

because of the predominant construction material, and 

has a circular nave capped by one of the largest domes 

in Europe. 

As it is too early for it to be open I take some pictures and 

head to Osterport railway station to catch a train to 

Helsingor. There is a train in the station and a 30 minute 

ride through the villages and countryside beside the 

Øresund sees me at Helsingor. The countryside is still 

21

awakening from winter. Daffodils and 

other early spring flowers are 

blooming and the crops are poking 

through the ground, but there is as 

yet, only a faint show of green on the 

trees. 

a primarily royal palace, but a grandiose tollhouse for 

collecting the ‘Sound Tolls’ extracted from passing ship 

by the Danes for centuries. The royal apartments have 

been restored and furnished with examples of furniture 

and tapestries from Danish palaces. Some of the inlaid 

pieces were exquisite. An ornate wooden door, which 

now stands in the ballroom, was formerly the entrance to 

the queen’s quarters. 

There has been a fortified castle on the site since the 

1420’s. Frederick II substantially renovated and rebuilt 

the castle, as it is today between 1574 and 1585. On the 

night of 25 September 1629 the castle was ravaged by 

fire, only the chapel remained. The ornate door to the 

queen’s quarter survived, as it had not been delivered 

before the fire. It is in excellent condition with a few small 

cracks in the timber inlays. 

The castle also houses the Danish Maritime Museum 

tracing the history of Danish seafaring. Many of the 

displays have captions in English, making it a much more 

interesting museum 

Marienlyst Slot - Helsingor 

22 

St Albans Church - Copenhagen 

Helsingor is a major ferry port for 

crossing the Øresund to the large 

industrial town of Helsingborg in 

Sweden. Car ferries shuttle back and 

forth across the sound. For tourists 

the town is more famous as the site of 

the Shakespearean castle – Elsinore 

– the Kronborg Slot. Clearly visible 

across the harbour, the castle sits on 

a headland overlooking the narrow 

entrance to the Baltic Sea. It was not 

Kronborg Slot – Hamlet’s Elsinore 

Although the chapel survived the fire it did not survive 

Danish military occupation from 1785 to 1923. Stripped of 

its religious furnishings it was used as an ammunition 

store and gymnasium. Fortunately, everything was stored 

away and after the army left restoration was possible. 

Holger Danske 

The casements (foundations, basement, dungeons) of 

the palace are open and have a number of small displays

Door from Queen’s Apartments - 

Kronborg Slot 

showing the inhabitants, servants and 

soldiers, who lived in poor conditions 

below the castle. 

The stone figure of Holger Danske 

slumbers in the casements. According 

to legend he will wake if external 

enemies threaten Denmark. 

Before visiting the castle I had walked 

to Marienlyst Slot, a pretty little palace 

set in manicured, formal grounds. 

Unfortunately it did not open until 

12:00 and I couldn’t hang around to 

see the exhibits. 

Chapel – Kronborg Slot Navigation Light in a tower - 

Kronborg Slot 

As forecast, light snow fell for a few minutes at about 

12:30.Back in the town I visited the Elsinore Cathedral, 

The Church of St. Olai. The church has a long and 

checkered history. The body of the present church was 

finished in 1559, but there have been many changes 

since. Among the items displayed is a canon ball fired by 

the British on their way to the Battle of Copenhagen (April 

2 1801). A contemporary picture of the battle in the 

Danish Maritime Museum shows the British attacking 

from the west, or landward side of Copenhagen. 

A quick train ride back to Osterport and I set off to visit 

the ‘Marble Church’, the altar and the decoration of the 

ceiling of the dome are quite unusual. 

The Church of St. Olai - 

Helsingor 

Amalienborg and Frederick’s Church 

23

The Opera House - Copenhagen 

Royal Apartments – Kronborg Slot 

Fredericks Church - Copenhagen 

Nearby is the museum at 

Amalienborg, Christian VIII’s palace, 

displaying the studies of several kings 

and queens. It is hard to believe they 

worked in such a clutter of things. 

Also on display are photographs from 

the personal collections of recent 

kings and queens. 

A stroll to the banks of the Inderhavn 

and on the other side is the new, 

modern Opera House donated by the 

owner of the Maersk shipping 

company. 

Happy Drinkers 

Turning for home, a little footsore, I visit first the Jade 

Museum on the banks of the Nyhavn and the grounds of 

Charlottenborg and then stroll along the Strojet, the main 

shopping street of Copenhagen. 

The cafes and bars beside Nyhavn 

provide blankets to customers sitting 

outside in the sun. 

Helsingor 

24

Thursday 21 April 2005 - Roskilde Day 04 

Royal city and ecclesiastical centre 

Should you wish to become acquainted with the history of 

Denmark, it is natural to start in Roskilde. Through the 

ages Roskilde has played an important role politically as 

well as culturally, manifesting itself in the many different 

cultural activities in this area today. 

Dom Kirke - Roskilde 

Legend has it that King Ro founded Roskilde, but 

historically the town goes back to the Viking Age around 

the 990s. The many barrows in the area indicate that 

Roskilde was densely populated throughout ancient 

times. Lejre is inscribed in the history of Denmark as a 

central place of worship and a Zealand chieftain's seat. 

Dom Kirke - Roskilde 

Roskilde is about 35 km west of 

Copenhagen and was once the 

capital of Denmark. Prior to the 

Reformation in the 16C, Roskilde had 

been both the capital and the centre 

of the Catholic Church in Zealand. 

However after the Reformation the 

power and wealth of the church, 

particularly the Dom Kirke, declined 

and the Royal household moved to 

Copenhagen. 

Altar Screen - Dom Kirke - Roskilde 

Roskilde – 1000 years 

http://www.visitroskilde.com/historieuk.htm 

Clock inside the Dom Kirke - Roskilde 

King Harald Bluetooth, who erected the rune-stone in 

Jelling, was the founder of Roskilde. He buiit the first 

25

church of wood here, probably on the 

site of the present cathedral - and was 

buried here. 

Rapidly the town became the centre 

of the Crown and the rich Catholic 

Church held a strong position in 

Roskilde. About 1020 the see of 

Roskilde was established, and before 

long there were 14 parish churches 

and five convents and monasteries 

besides the cathedral. In the Middle 

Ages Roskilde was considered one of 

the biggest and most important cities 

in Northern Europe with a population 

of 5,000-10,000. 

Decline was rapid, and by the mid-18 th 

were only 1500 inhabitants in Roskilde. 

century there 

and Queen has been buried there. Usually the 

magnificent sarcophaguses that hold the remains of the 

King and his Queen are paid for by the successor and 

are not made until both have died so that a matching pair 

can be produced. 

At that time the cathedral on the 

plateau was surrounded by the town. 

Outside the ramparts by the fjord was 

a small fishing hamlet, Skt. 

Jørgensbjerg. In the Middle Ages 

there was a leper hospital here, and in 

the small village church from about 

1080 there are remains from about 

1035. It is thus the oldest preserved 

stone building in the country. 

Queen Margrethe l was interred in 

Roskilde Cathedral about the year 

1413, and the cathedral has been the 

favourite burial place of the Royal 

Family since that time. Today no less 

than 38 Danish kings and queens are 

buried here. The Reformation in 1536 

marked a turning point in the history of 

Roskilde. The Catholic Church 

administration disappeared and all the 

convents and monasteries and most 

of the parish churches were 

abolished. 

Small Longship under sail 

In 1847 the first railway line in Denmark was built 

between Roskilde and Copenhagen. This infused new life 

into the town, which grew as a commercial centre, and it 

has since become a traffic junction and a centre of 

education, research, trade and tourism. 

Apart from the historical significance of the town, it is also 

the home of the Viking Ship Museum. 

After visiting the tourist information office to get a map my 

first stop was the Dom Kirke. 

The present building was commenced in the 1170’s by 

bishop Absalon. It was finished as a Gothic construction, 

of brick, in about 1280. Since then it has undergone 

many alterations and additions. The most significant were 

the changes that occurred after the Reformation in 1536. 

Kings and Queens of Denmark have been buried there 

since 986 when Harald Bluetooth was buried. Prior to the 

Reformation not all Kings and Queens were buried in the 

Cathedral. However since the Reformation every King 

Boat Yard – Viking Ship Museum – Roskilde 

Viking Ship - Viking Ship Museum – Roskilde 

The sarcophagus of Queen Margrite 1 (1375 – 1412) 

occupies pride of place in the choir of the cathedral. She 

26

is credited with uniting, albeit 

temporarily, Norway, Sweden and 

Denmark. 

As the museum is opened at 11:00, 

13:00 and 14:00 I decided to go to the 

Viking Ship Museum and return later. 

http://www.khm.uio.no/english/viking_ 

ship_museum/index.shtml 

The museum houses the remains of 5 

Viking ships discovered at Skuldelev, 

about 20km north of Roskilde, where 

they were apparently scuttled to close 

a narrow, natural channel in the 

Roskilde Fjord. The reason for the 

scuttling is unknown, but it has been suggested that it 

was to impede an invading Norwegian fleet. They 

comprised a cross section of Viking ships, an oceangoing 

trader, and ocean-going longship (warship) able to 

carry 70-80 men, a coastal trader, a small longship and 

fishing boat. 

During construction of Museum Island nine boats from 

the Viking Age and the Middle Ages were found, 

including the longest, at 36m, Viking ship found to date. 

A boatyard dedicated to building Viking ships is located 

on Museum Island and so far replicas of the Skuldelev 

boats have been built. These boats are fully functional 

and it is possible to sail on them in the fjord. Three of the 

ships put out with novice crew and set sail. 

Raising sail is no mean task. There is no block and tackle 

available. On the smaller boats muscle power will do the 

job, but on the larger ocean going boat a simple windlass 

is needed to raise the heavy yardarm and sail. 

The small longship was the first under way and headed 

North on a Westerly breeze of around 10 knots. When it 

turned to return to Roskilde its windward performance 

was quite incredible for a square-rigged vessel. 

In the old gas works by the harbour a glass worker 

produces some very beautiful and expensive glassware. I 

looked in and admired the work. 

Modern Vikings - Viking Ship 

Museum – Roskilde 

Large Longship. Method for tightening shrouds Queen Margrite 1’s Gown - Dom 

Kirke Museum - Roskilde 

27

After visiting the Viking Ship Museum 

I returned to the Cathedral to see the 

museum. I was the only visitor. This is 

an interesting small museum that 

traces the history of the Cathedral. 

Captions are in Danish but the 

information brochure helps if you have 

time to link the explanations to the 

displays. The brochure and the 

display features ‘The Bishop’, Bishop 

Niels Jacobsen Ulfeldt (d.1397), who 

was buried in a grave marked with an 

ornate sepulchral brass depicting him 

in full bishop’s regalia. At the time the 

diocese owned 2600 farms and the 

bishop had several estates. He and 

the diocese were very wealthy. I 

asked where the brass was, to be told 

that it had been sold off to raise 

money in more recent times. 

Queen Margrite 1 - Dom Kirke - Roskilde 

My last visit was to the Roskilde Museum. Similar to 

many local museums it could do with a face-lift. With the 

aid of notes in English I was able to follow the history of 

the town and area through the archaeological finds that 

were displayed. 

First history of the Danes - Dom Kirke Museum - 

Roskilde 

Friday 22 April 2005 - Copenhagen Day 05 

Copenhagen - 1839 Christiansborg Viking Cart – Nationalmuseet - Copenhagen 

28

various parts of the world and a small collection of 

Egyptian and classical antiquities. 

The exhibits of Danish history are very interesting and 

detailed and alone make a visit to the Museum 

worthwhile. 

After two hours I had to move on if I was to do what I 

planned. 

Viking Rune Stone - 

Nationalmuseet - Copenhagen 

I have planned a busy day. My 

Copenhagen Card expires tonight. 

My planned first stop is the Rädhus to 

see the Jens Olsen mechanical 

astronomical clock. Not a good start. 

No sign of life at the Rädhus and the 

city is very quite for a Friday morning 

at 09:30. 

Turns out to be a public holiday 

‘Common Prayer Day – Fourth Friday 

after Easter’. Hopefully the other 

places will be open. 

Viking House - Nationalmuseet - Copenhagen 

Altar Screen - Nationalmuseet - Copenhagen 

The nearby Nationalmuseet is open. The museum traces 

Danish history through 10000 years, through displays of 

archaeological artifacts discovered at many sites in 

Denmark and abroad, from the Stone Age to Middle 

Ages. There is a display ‘Stories of Denmark 1660 – 

2000’ which includes many familiar objects from the past 

400 years. There are also ethnographic exhibitions from 

Next stop is Ver Frue Kirke, the Church of Our Lady, and 

the Lutheran Cathedral in Copenhagen. A service is in 

progress for the ‘Common Prayer Day’ so it is not 

possible to wander around the church. However there 

does not seem to be a lot to see. Apart from alter the 

church decoration is plain. There are two balconies on 

each side of the church. The church was packed. 

I stay for a while and listen to the service. The tunes to 

the hymns are familiar but I can’t understand a word. It 

was after 1230 when I left and as far as I could determine 

it had started at 10:00 and another was due to start at 

13:00. 

About 500m away is the Rundetaarn (Round Tower) built 

by Christian IV in 1642. A spiral ramp twists round the 

centre of the tower seven and a half times. It is the site of 

Europe’s oldest working observatory and during the 

winter visitors can observe the night sky through the large 

refracting telescope. There are few high-rise buildings in 

Copenhagen and the tower provides a viewpoint over 

most of the city. 

http://www.rundetaarn.dk/engelsk/frames.htm 

I am a little ahead of my timetable and I can see from the 

tower that Rosenberg Slot is not far away, about 800m. I 

walk through the almost deserted streets to the 

Rosenberg Park. The trees are turning green but it will be 

a while yet before the trees are covered in leaves. 

29

Rosenberg Slot is the home of the 

Royal Danish Collections: The Crown 

Jewels and the treasures of the Royal 

Family through 400 years (1500- 

1900). 

The palace is open. The house will close at 14:00. The 

collection of porcelain, gold and silver ware and jewelry is 

unbelievable. The crown jewels are also very beautiful 

although not as extensive as the British Crown Jewels. 

http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/frontp 

age_2.asp?countryID=2 

Photos were not allowed so I bought the book. 

Medieval St George and the 

Dragon - Nationalmuseet - 

Copenhagen 

It is time to head for the 

Christiansborg Palace. Two things are 

of interest there: the ruins of earlier 

palaces excavated by the National 

Museum before the present palace 

was built and the Reception Rooms in 

Christiansborg. 

Migration Advertisement - 

Nationalmuseet - Copenhagen 

http://kongehuset.dk/artikel.php?dogtag=k_en_col_cha 

The ruins are from the first palace, the Bishop’s Palace 

built by Bishop Absalon in about 1167. It was destroyed 

in 1369. The other was Copenhagen Palace built in 1416 

by King Erik of Pomerania. It was pulled down in 1731-32 

to build a palace suitable for an absolute monarch. 

Dom Kirke - Copenhagen 

Rundetårn - Copenhagen 

There have been three Christiansborgs. Fire destroyed 

the first in 1794 and the second in 1884. The present 

palace was started in 1907 and completed in 1929. A 

monarch has never occupied it. With the end of the 

absolute monarchy there was friction between the then 

King and the government and as a result the monarchs 

have continued to live at Amalienborg. 

http://www.ses.dk/147000c 

30

Ramp inside the Rundetårn - Copenhagen 

Ruins below Christiansborg of the former 

Palaces 

Model of the ruins below Christiansborg of 

the former Palaces 

modern ones at Cristiansborg are very interesting and 

colourful. 

Rosenborg - Copenhagen 

Tivoli Gardens - Copenhagen 

The Royal Apartments at Christiansborg have become 

the Office of the Prime Minister. Amalienborg does not 

have the rooms necessary for major official functions so 

the Queen and the government use the magnificent 

reception rooms at Christiansborg. Tapestries are 

featured in Kronborg, Rosenborg and Christiansborg. 

They are in excellent conditions despite their age and the 

Tivoli Gardens - Copenhagen 

The day is not finished yet. A planetarium named after 

the famous Danish astronomer, Tycho Brahe is near the 

hotel. While the displays were potentially instructive, 

some did not work and the IMAX theatre seemed to 

dominate the building. Somewhat disappointing. 

31

Finally, a visit to the Tivoli Gardens. 

Fun parks are not my thing but this 

has been around a long time. The 

rides compare with those at any fun park and the 

restaurants,of which there are many, were fairly busy. 

The gardens are starting to bloom with spring flowers and 

the display of tulips will be outstanding in a few weeks. 

http://www.tivoli.dk/composite-297.htm 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tivoli_Gardens,_Copenhagen 

Saturday 23 April 2005 - Odense Day 06 

Sankt Knud’s Kirke – the Dom 

Kirke - Odense 

The 08:00 train gets me to the 

birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen 

on April 2 1805 at 0935, a little early 

for anything to be open. Time to find 

the Rädhus and the Information 

Centre in the centre of town before it 

opens. There are many places in and 

Sankt Knud’s Kirke - Odense Organ - Sankt Knud’s Kirke - 

Odense 

nearby Odense and a 24-hr event pass is worthwhile. 

Odense 

http://www.odense.dk/English.aspx 

The history of Odense 

Saint Albans Church - Odense 

Odense is mentioned for the first time in official 

documents in a letter from the German Kaiser Otto the 

3rd from 988. By that time, the town was already the 

diocese of a bishop but had probably also been the 

centre of the Odin Cult. Archaeological finds indicate that 

the original settlement was centred around the current 

site of the Town Hall. Around 980 and just south of the 

32

town was one of the circular forts from 

Viking times, called Nonnebakken. 

cemented the town’s position as a religious and political 

centre, and in 1482 a German printer called Johan Snell 

printed the first two books in Denmark at the invitation of 

Odense’s clergy. 

Rear of Bymuseet Møntergårten - Odense 

Rädhus - Odense 

Saint Albans Church 

St. Knud 

On 10 July 1086 king Knud the 4th 

was slain in St. Albani Church and 

was canonised a few years later to 

become Saint Knud - his earthly 

remains can still be seen in the 

cathedral crypt. Specially-imported 

Benedictine monks from England 

founded St. Knud’s Monastery shortly 

afterwards, where the English monk 

Aelnoth wrote Denmark’s first literary 

work in 1100. St. Knud’s and several 

other later monasteries quickly 

H.C.Andersen Haven - Odense 

Saturday Market - Odense 

Powerful merchants 

During the first 100 years after the Reformation, the town 

continued to build on its position as a trading centre for 

the surrounding districts. Merchants such as Oluf Bager 

exported live cattle from local farms and made huge 

fortunes that gave rise to some of the magnificent timberframed 

quadrangle buildings – some of which were also 

33

uilt by local nobility who had their 

winter quarters in the town. The 

Swedish Wars in the mid-1600s and 

the resultant tax burden hit Odense 

hard, and despite state initiatives such 

as the ‘Tugt- og manufakturhuset’ (a 

manufacturing facility for the 

unemployed and social fringe groups) 

from 1752 and significant production 

and export of such items as gloves, 

the town never really recovered from 

economic stagnation until around 

1800 when the population topped 

6,000. 

river. It was the first Danish town to get a modern water 

and gas works in 1853 and with the arrival of the railways 

in 1865, all the conditions were in place for rapid 

industrialisation. Iron and metals, textiles, food and 

beverages soon became central elements of the town’s 

commercial life and separate industrial and residential 

areas started to appear. 

Vor Frue Kirke – the Church of Our Lady 

34 

Vor Frue Kirke – the Church of 

Our Lady 

HC Andersen outside Radisson Hotel - Odense 

Development and industry 

Odense became a port with the opening of its canal in 

1803; the roads around the town were improved and from 

the 1840s the town really began to expand out of its old 

boundaries. For many years, Odense was second only to 

Copenhagen in Denmark. The town gates disappeared in 

1851 and a few years later, the town spread south of the 

HC Andersen house at the end of the street - 

Odense 

Town hall built 

As was the case with many other Danish market towns, 

towards the end of the 1800s (1880-83) Odense built a 

new Town Hall, designed by architects J.D. Herholdt and 

C. Lendorf and partially inspired by the Town Hall of 

Siena in northern Italy. This was later extended to the 

east to the designs of architect B. Helweg Møller, an 

extension opened on the 150th birthday of the town’s 

favourite son, Hans Christian Andersen – the 2 April 

1955. 

The Town Hall was renovated between 2003-2005 ready 

for the celebrations of the bicentenary of Hans Christian 

Andersen to start – of course - on the same day, 2 April, 

2005.

The council was dominated right up 

until 1937 by the Conservative party – 

not least because a large blue collar 

area that had grown up around the 

A.P. Møller shipyard was handily kept 

out of the city boundaries up until 

1932. Ever since 1937, the mayor has 

been a Social Democrat, and during 

the German occupation of the Second 

World War, the general strike in 

Odense held in August 1943 was a 

major contributor to the collapse of the 

policy of collaboration with the 

Germans, on 29 August 1943. 

At the inception of the 1900s, Odense 

had just under 40,000 residents and 

grew so fast that by 1950, there were 

100.000. Over the next couple of 

decades, the population began to drift 

away from the centre. Large areas of 

suburban housing were inducted into 

Odense Kommune by the 

reorganisation of local and regional 

boundaries in 1970, and service 

industry began to rise at the expense 

of heavy industry. 

Culture 

Odense has been a cultural centre 

since Medieval times and in 1772 its 

local newspaper (still published today) 

Fyens Stiftstidende was published for 

the first time. Only a few years later, 

Odense became the first provincial 

town in Denmark to have its own 

theatre. Social and cultural life in what 

became known as "etatsrådernes by" 

(the State Councillors’ city) was 

subject to deep divisions, but the 20th 

century saw significant changes as class barriers came 

down. In 1966 Odense became a university city and 

home in 1988 to one of the major national TV network 

channels, TV2. 

HC Andersen house - Odense 

HC Andersen Museum - Odense 

While I am waiting for the Information Centre to open I 

walk around the vicinity of the Rädhus. Sct Knud’s Kirke 

– the Dom Kirke is open, but there is a service in 

progress, so no visitors. 

Behind the Kirke is H.C.Andersen Haven, a pretty park 

on the banks of the river. 

From HCA’s life - HCA Museum - Odense 

Oceania, by Svend Wiig Hansen - Odense 

The Information Office is very helpful and I spend a few 

minutes planning the day to minimize back tracking. 

35

First stop is Sankt Albani Kirke – Saint 

Albans Church – a Roman Catholic 

Church. There had been a church on 

the site Middle Ages where St Knud 

was murdered. The first Catholic 

Church, St Mary’s, was built on the 

site in 1870. The present church was 

built in 1906-8 in early Gothic style 

with a Romanesque portal. The 

Reformation had decimated the 

Catholic in Denmark and most 

existing Catholic churches were 

converted to Reformed Churches. 

The Vor Frue Kirke – the Church of 

Our Lady – is the city’s oldest church, 

dating back to approx. 1250. 

According to local lore there has been 

a church on this site for over 1000 

years. 

As I make my way towards Hans 

Christian Andersen’s Hus I come 

upon the Saturday Market. A bustling 

place with many produce stalls 

featuring fresh vegetables, some with 

a range of chilies and peppers and 

many with up to 10 varieties of potato. 

The house where Hans Christian 

Andersen is believed to have been 

born is a tiny three roomed cottage on 

a corner. 

The Museum is the full length of the 

block behind the houses and houses 

things from Andersen’s life and traces 

through the exhibits and descriptions, 

in English, his life story. There is a 

library containing editions of his 

stories in every conceivable language. 

36 

The man was an eccentric but his brilliance as a teller of 

stories has made him a Danish national hero. 

http://www.andersen.sdu.dk/index_e.html 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Christian_Andersen 

Hans Christian Andersen’s Barndomshjen - Odense 

Tidens Samling - Odense 

The Ugly Duckling - Tidens Samling - Odense 

Painting by Jonathan Lasker - Odense 

Bymuseet Møntergårten: This is the local museum 

housed in half timbered building in the old part of 

Odense. Besides the usual collection of local historical 

exhibits, the current exhibition, 100000 years of Sex, 

traces attitudes to sex and sexuality through the ages. 

Enough of the captions are in English to be able to follow 

the theme. The displays are drawn from archaeological 

and historical material, mainly from Europe. Some of the

displays are quite explicit and parents 

are advised that it might not be 

suitable for children under 12 years 

old. 

Sankt Knuds Kirke – the Dom Kirke – 

is a large Gothic Cathedral from the 

14 th C. Below the altar is a crypt 

containing a number of graves from 

the Middle Ages. There is a small 

room showing part of the foundations 

of the original church St Albans 

Church. Apparently St Knud was not 

particularly saintly, but the pope at the 

time agreed to make him a saint in 

order to secure Christianity in the 

area. 

Flakhavn a is pleasant open space in 

front of the Rädhus. Bowls of spring 

flowers brighten the area and as it is 

Saturday there are many children 

playing on the large reclining male 

figure, Oceania, by Svend Wiig 

Hansen. 

Hans Christian Andersen’s 

Barndomshjen is a tiny three-roomed 

house in which HCA lived as a child. 

The house is in what was a very poor 

part of town and it is said HCA did not 

acknowledge his time there. 

Brandts Passage is an alleyway that 

is being refurbished with new modern 

shops, restaurants and a museum 

centre housed in an old textile mill. A 

group of bronze figures in a courtyard 

illustrates HCA’s fairytale about the 

King’s new clothes. 

Printing Press - Danmarks Mediemuseum - Odense 

Rear of Bymuseet Møntergårten - Odense 

Tidens Samling. I think samling means collection. 

Anyway the collection housed in the attic of the house at 

Brandts Passage 29 houses a collection of old 

magazines in several languages that you can sit and read 

if you wish and a large room at the far end is divided into 

spaces furnished in the styles of homes from about 1900 

to 1980. Every conceivable piece of junk seems to have 

been jammed into each space. 

Railway Museum - Odense 

Royal Carriage - Railway Museum - Odense 

The display of most interest is one illustrating HCA’s 

stories using common materials, like old shoes, to portray 

the characters and the themes of the stories. Each 

installation is in an old suitcase, similar to those that 

would have been common in HCA’s and were probably 

used by him on his many travels. 

37

The museum building in the old textile 

mill, Brandts Klaedefabrik, houses 

several exhibitions. The Danmarks 

Mediemuseum has a display of 

printing in Denmark and hand made 

paper incorporating a watermark of 

HCA. The museum traces the 

development of printing in Denmark 

from it introduction in 1482 to the 

present. There were few major 

changes in printing, particularly 

typesetting, from the time of 

Gutenberg until the 1920s. There are 

exhibits of most modern processes for 

printing and typesetting. The 

bookbinding section has some very 

good examples of the craft. 

Kunsthallen, Brandts, is a large 

display space for Art exhibitions. The 

current exhibition is of works by Maj 

Lisa Englelhardt. Her works are large 

and many are modern religious paints 

and rather surreal landscapes. 

Museet for Fotokunst, Brants has an 

exhibition of snapshots by a number 

of photographers. Some could well 

have come from anyone’s family 

photo album. However they chronicle 

Sweden 

a period from the early 20 th C till about 1960. The 

snapshots are from a collection of over a million collected 

by since the late 1960’s by the Austrian photographer 

and artist Christian R Skrein. From this vast collection the 

exhibition – Snapshots – The Eye of the Century – gives 

a selection of themes, kids, love, nature, war, nudes, 

travels, sports, and work. Some show celebrities of the 

time such as Marilyn Monroe, Adolf Hitler and Charlie 

Chaplin. 

http://www.schaden.com/book/SkrChrSna03252.html 

Another display of work by Jonathan Lasker featured 

modern works that I have no understanding of but found 

most intriguing. 

http://www.speronewestwater.com/cgibin/iowa/artists/record.html?record=5 

http://www.speronewestwater.com/cgibin/iowa/artists/related.html?record=5&info=works 

The day is just about done, one last stop and time will run 

out and everything will close. I head past the Odense 

Theatre, through the Kongens Have – King’s Park – in 

front of the Odense Slot to the Danmarks 

Jernbanemuseum. This is Denmark’s Railway Museum. 

Railways and Train ferries have played an important part 

in modern communication and transport in Denmark and 

between Denmark, Scandinavia and the rest of Europe. It 

is housed in the old Engine House and features 

locomotives and carriages from the earliest days of rail 

travel to the present. Included is several Royal Coaches 

and a dining car from the famous Wagon Lits company 

whose blue trains once criss crossed Europe and 

continue today as the luxury trains such as the modern 

Orient Express. 

http://www.jernbanemuseum.dk/GB/index_gb.html 

For the Children - Railway Museum - Odense 

After all that I caught the 17:06 IC express back to 

Copenhagen, arriving at 18:18. 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/sweden/ 

Full country name: Kingdom of Sweden 



Capital City: Stockholm 

People: 90% Swedes, 3% Finns, 0.15% Sami (indigenous Lapp inhabitants) 

Language: Swedish, English 

Religion: predominantly Lutheran (87%) 

Government: Constitutional Monarchy 

Head of State: King Carl XVI Gustaf 

Head of Government: Prime Minister Göran Persson 



38

Annual Growth: 1% 

Inflation: 2% 

Major Industries: Forestry, mining, agriculture, engineering and high tech 

manufacturing, telecommunications, IKEA 

Major Trading Partners: EU, US 

Member of EU: Yes 

History 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/sweden/history.htm 

Written records in Sweden survive only from late in the Middle Ages. But the 

number and variety of fortifications, assembly places, votive sites and graves 

is impressive. Humankind and metallurgy made late appearances and only in 

the Bronze Age, after the arrival of Indo-Europeans, was there rich trade. The 

country's early cultural life is still vividly represented in the hällristningar (rock 

paintings) that survive in many parts of Sweden. In the Mälaren valley, the 

first known trading posts were established and monuments with runic 

inscriptions appeared. 

The Viking Age was getting under way by the 9th century, and vast 

repositories of Roman, Byzantine and Arab coins attest to the wealth and 

power Swedish Vikings accumulated over the next century. Vikings travelled 

mostly to the east, making their mark in Russia, as well as trading with (and 

pillaging) Byzantine territories. Pagan gods and slightly more earthbound 

kings held sway over the domestic population, with Christianity only taking 

root in the 11th century. Internal squabbles whiled away the bulk of the 

Middle Ages until Denmark interceded in 1397, when, together with Norway, 

they joined Sweden in the Union of Kalmar. A century of Swedish nationalist 

grumblings erupted in rebellion under Gustaf Vasa, who was crowned in 

1523. Gustaf then set about introducing religious reform and a powerful 

centralised nation-state. A period of expansion resulted in Sweden's control 

over much of Finland and the Baltic countries. 

In 1809, the unrestricted power vested in the monarch was undone by 

aristocratic revolt and Finland was lost to Russia. The same year, Sweden 

produced a constitution that divided legislative powers between king and 

Riksdag (parliament). The post of ombudsman appeared as a check on the 

powers of the bureaucracy. In 1814 the military enforcement of the union with 

Norway was Sweden's last involvement with war. 

Industry arrived late but was based on efficient steelmaking and the safety 

match, a Swedish invention. Iron-ore mining (important for at least 300 years) 

and then steel manufacture began to expand, creating a prosperous middle 

class. But an 1827 statute that scattered the agricultural villages of much of 

Sweden's countryside had more immediate and far-reaching effects - the old 

social fabric disappeared. By 1900 almost one in four Swedes lived in cities, 

and industry (based on timber, precision machinery and hardware) was on 

the upswing. In this environment the working class was radicalised. 

Sweden declared itself neutral at the outbreak of WWI and was governed 

bilaterally until 1917. But food shortages caused unrest and consensus was 

no longer possible. For the first time a social democratic government took 

control. The social democrats dominated politics after 1932, reworking the 

liberal tendencies of the 1920s to join economic intervention with the 

introduction of a welfare state. These trends were scarcely interrupted until 

the 1970s when economic pressures began to cloud Sweden's social goals. It 

was then that support for social democracy first wavered, looking particularly 

shaky after the 1986 assassination of Prime Minister Olof Palme and its 

murky aftermath. 

The political breeze shifted to the right in 1991 when a Moderate-led coalition 

won power. The experiment with rightist economics and the move to EU 

membership left many Swedes uncertain and disillusioned, allowing the social 

democrats to sneak back and form a minority government in 1994. 

The social democrats suffered further losses in the 1995 elections, but have 

managed to cling to power under Prime Minister Göran Persson, who relies 

on the support of the Centre Right party or the Greens. In late 1996, 10 years 

after Palme's assassination, a leader of a South African hit-squad accused a 

former Rhodesian soldier of Palme's murder - Palme was a tireless critic of 

South Africa's apartheid policies. 

Recent political debate in Sweden has centred around the widening gap 

between rich and poor, racial tensions and EU membership. Swedes rejected 

a September 2003 referendum over entry into the Euro currency zone despite 

39

the assassination just days before of the popular foreign minister Anna Lindh, 

a leading campaigner in favour of the move. 

Attractions 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/sweden/attractions.htm 

Stockholm 

Stockholm is, without doubt, one of the most beautiful national capitals in the 

world. The Old Town is particularly spectacular, and walking around the 

city's waterways and parks is a glorious way to spend a week-long stretch of 

European summer. 

Visitors and residents alike enjoy strolling along the streets and lanes in the 

medieval section of Gamla Stan, or exploring its many museums. The city is 

compact and easily explored on foot, although its watery nature, and many 

islands and archipelagos, may have you looking around for a boat. 

Gothenburg 

Sweden's second city, Gothenburg has a magnificent harbour, a brilliant 

showpiece boulevard, and Liseberg, one of the world's best amusement 

parks. Its prime attraction is Spaceport Liseberg, which dominates the park 

at a height of 150m (492ft). 

After Liseberg the collected museums are the strongest attractions. The 

central museum Ostindiska huset has archaeological, local and historical 

collections. Konstmuseet has impressive collections of European masters 

and is notable for paintings by Rubens, Van Gogh and Rembrandt. The main 

museum of maritime history is Sjöfartshistoriska museet. Gothenburg is 

easily accessible by air, bus, train and boat and, once you're there, a bunch 

of spanking new hostels in the city centre awaits your weary head. 

Vadstena 

Set along Lake Vättern, beautiful Vadstena is one of the most pleasant 

towns in Sweden. The Renaissance castle Vadstena slott looks straight over 

the harbour and lake beyond. It was a mighty family project of the early Vasa 

kings, and it houses in the upper apartments some items of period furniture 

and paintings, including a Van Dyck. The equally impressive 15th-century 

klosterkyrkan or abbey is a combination of Gothic and Renaissance features. 

Inside are the accumulated relics of St Birgitta and late-medieval sculpture, 

including a depiction of the saint during revelation. 

Visby 

The walled and cobbled medieval port of Visby is a living relic: more than 40 

proud towers and the ruins of great churches attest to Visby's former 

Hanseatic glories. The contemporary ruins of Drotten, St Nicolai, St Lars and 

St Carin are all within the town walls and contrast with the old but sound 

cathedral of St Maria. Gotlands Fornsal is the historical museum with a fine 

collection of the Gotland picture stones of the pre-Viking period. During the 

second week of August, costumes and re-enactments commemorate 

medieval week. Visby is on the island of Gotland, which is serviced by flights 

from Stockholm and ferries from a number of mainland cities. 

Öland 

Öland is a small island containing ruins, fortifications and 400 windmills. The 

biggest Iron-Age ring fort on the island, Gråborg - with a diameter of 200m 

(656ft) - is an incredible sight. Nearby, Eketorp has been partly 

reconstructed as a museum to show what a fortified medieval village must 

have looked like. Equally impressive are the ruins of Borgholm Castle, which 

was eventually burned and abandoned early in the 18th century. Also 

prominent are the lighthouses at the northern and southern tips of the island. 

Öland is reached from Kalmar via a 6000m (19,680ft) bridge, the longest in 

Europe. Öland is a popular place to celebrate Midsummer. 

40

Sunday 24 April 2005 - Copenhagen – Bornholm - Kalmar Day 07 

Bornholm History 

http://www.archipelago.nu/SKARGARD/ENGELSK 

A/DENMARK/bornholm_history.htm 

Ancient times 

Bornholm was formed 1,700 million years ago, but 

it was only 10,000 years ago that the first humans 

came to the island in hollowed-out tree trunks. 

The Vikings, who ravaged much of Europe from 

the sea at around the turn of the last millennium, 

also persecuted Bornholm. 

Ronne 

Town Square - Ronne 

Ronne Post Office 

Early start to catch the 06:39 train to Ystad and the 

fast ferry to Ronne on the island of Bornholm. 

Bornholm is off the Swedish coast, but is Danish. 

The Danish Inter City Express connects with the 

ferry at Ystad in Sweden. The train travels across 

the Øresund on the lower level of the high level 

Øresund Bridge. 

Wedding Guard of Honour 

Church - Ronne 

On an outcrop of rock between Ekkodalen and 

Jomfrubjerget, a rampart was built that served as a 

refuge for the peasant population during attacks 

from the sea. The oldest royal castle in the Nordic 

region, Lilleborg, is situated at Almindingen. 

In the southern part of the Paradisbakkerne hills, 

there is an even more ancient refuge, from around 

the year 500, when the people of Bornholm fought 

against wandering tribes. Gamleborg, situated in 

the Paradisbakkerne hills, was also used as a 

defence against the Vikings. Still more ancient are 

41

the many passage graves and dolmens from the 

Neolithic Age, a large number of barrows and rock 

carvings from the Bronze Age. 

The history of Bornholm since the Second World 

War has been shaped by the Russian bombing 

and occupation of the island. The will of Bornholm 

to defend itself is reflected in a Home Guard that, 

in proportion to the size of the island, is unequalled 

in Denmark. 

Villum Clauscens 

Ronne Harbour 

The Swedish War 

The 800-year-old meter-thick walls in the island's 

four roundchurches, the castle ruins of 

Hammershus and the many refuge castles stand 

as clear testimony to the island's more recent 

history, with its battles against pirates, against 

plundering foreign fleets, against the church and 

royal might. 

During the Swedish War of 1658, the people of 

Bornholm decided to free themselves from the 

Swedes. They shot the Swedish commandant and 

handed over the island to the king of Denmark, 

who had to promise never to cede Bornholm to 

foreign powers. 

At the end of the Second World War, Bornholm's 

two largest towns, Rønne and Nexø, were bombed 

and occupied by the allied Russian forces. The 

occupation lasted eleven months after the end of 

the war. 

After the bombs 

Malmö 

After the bombings towards the end of the war in 

1945, Rønne and Nexø were extensively rebuilt. A 

gift from the Swedish state enabled 300 wooden 

houses to be constructed in the two towns. The 

areas in which they are located have been 

maintained, and even Swedish town planners 

travel to the island to see how it was done. 

Canal - Malmö 

Main Square - Malmö 

The three armed forces are all represented on the 

island, which is of major strategic importance to 

NATO. This is the eastern listening post of the 

Atlantic Alliance that, particularly during the Cold 

42

War and the turmoil in Eastern Europe, played a 

vital role in supplying information to the rest of the 

world. Despite the great distance of the island from 

the Danish capital, Copenhagen, and the rest of 

the country, a large majority of the people of 

Bornholm wish to retain the link with Denmark. 

There has, however, constantly been a Bornholm 

independence movement that desires autonomy. 

Thus, in many places, the special Bornholm flag 

can be seen; unlike the Danish flag, it sports a 

green cross. Until 1970, Bornholm consisted of 15 

rural districts and six municipalities. In the 

municipal reform, they were consolidated into five, 

i.e. Allinge-Gudhjem, Hasle, Nexø, Rønne and 

Aakirkeby. Higher-level issues are dealt with by 

Bornholms Amt (the County of Bornholm). 

On a Sunday morning in April, Ronne, the main 

town on the island of Bornholm, must be the 

quietest town on earth. Population 15000, there 

must have been about 100 out of their houses. 

There are a number of attractions, most of which 

are not in Ronne. Bus services on Sunday are 

every 2 hours so any idea of traveling out of Ronne 

by public transport is out of the question. Anyway it 

didn’t make any difference just about everything 

was closed. The couple of places of interest in 

Ronne are closed on Sunday in April. I spend 

several hours wandering the streets photographing 

the quaint, colorful buildings. The only piece of 

action is a wedding at the church, complete with a 

mounted guard of honour from the local riding 

school. The wind is freezing and eventually I seek 

shelter to avoid frost bitten ears. 

The ferry the Villum Clauscens was built by Auscat Ships 

in West Australia. There are many more people on the 

ferry this afternoon compared with this morning. I suspect 

people are returning to the mainland for work and school 

tomorrow. 

On return to Ystad I am able to catch an earlier train to 

Malmö. The train passes through farmlands with pastures 

green with new growth and pretty yellow (ochre) and 

white farmhouses. Occasionally rabbits and pheasants 

can be seen feeding in the fields. 

As a result I am able to spend a little time, before my next 

train, having a quick look at the area near the station. 

Maybe I should have had more time as it seems an 

interesting city. 

Comfortable, uneventful train journey to Kalmar, arriving 

at the hotel at 22:15 and crashing for the night. 

Bicycle Park – Malmö Railway Station 

Main Square - Malmö 

43

Monday 25 April 2005 - Copenhagen – Kalmar Day 08 

over the Kalmar Sound. Öland is a popular resort island 

where the Swedish Royal family spends its summer 

season. According to a statistics Kalmar receives about 

3.5 million visitors during the summer season and almost 

4.9 million vehicles cross the Öland Bridge each year. 

Kalmar is also known as “the lock and key to Sweden”, 

because of ready access on the Baltic Sea to Denmark, 

Germany, Poland, the Baltic States, and northern 

Sweden including Stockholm. Due to these distinctions, 

Kalmar was a periodical battleground of conflicts between 

the Scandinavian powers and rival Swedish factions. 

Kalmar is also known for the famous Kalmar Union of 

1397 pact, which joined Sweden, Norway and Denmark 

into a single Scandinavian kingdom. With a rich culture 

dating back to the Stone Age the Kalmar region is rich, 

with high-class agricultural land, forests of leaf and fir 

trees. 

The history of Kalmar dates back to the Stone Age. 

Excavations in Ljungbyholm, just south of Kalmar, during 

1968-69, uncovered relics from about A.D. 600 and the 

Bronze and Stone Ages. 

Medieval Kalmar Kalmar- Läns Museum 

Queen Margarita 1 – 1382 - 1450 

- Kalmar Läns Museum 

Kalmar 

http://www.kalmar.se 

http://www.travelershub.com/outbound/eur 

ope/kalmar.html 

Seaport on the southeast coast, 390 

km (242 miles) south of Stockholm, 

Kalmar was once the third largest city 

in Sweden. Kalmar is connected to 

the Öland Isle by the longest bridge in 

Europe, spanning more than 6 km 

44 

Guns from the Kronan - Kalmar Läns Museum 

History 

Model of the Kronan - Kalmar Läns Museum

Norwegian king) found the opportunity to unify the three 

Scandinavian territories of Sweden, Denmark and 

Norway. Margareta’s son and her only heir, Olav, had 

died in his infancy, but Margareta assured the 

continuation of the Scandinavian Union by selecting her 

great nephew Erik as her successor. The fifteen-year-old 

Erik was coroneted on Trinity Sunday in 1397. It was on 

this day the most sweeping pact of the Kalmar Union was 

drafted. Queen Margareta died of plague in 1412, when 

Erik realized the full role of the kingship. 

From the Kronan - Kalmar Läns 

Museum 

Due to its strategic position, the port 

of Kalmar was an important axis along 

the routes of the Vikings, whose 

period of domination reached its peak 

in the eleventh century. During the 

decade of the 1120’s, King Gigurd of 

Norway, crusading in the name of 

Christianity, laid waste to Kalmar. 

From 1307 until 1612, the Hanseatic 

League besieged Kalmar less than 

twenty-three times, indicating the 

magnitude of port’s importance to the 

region. In 1386, when the Swedish 

Lord High Jonsson Grip died, 

Margareta the daughter of a Danish 

king (whose wife was a daughter of a 

In 1470, Christian, Erik’s successor in Denmark, brought 

troops to Stockholm to administer the Kalmar Union, but 

was defeated by the newly elected Swedish regent Sten 

Sture. In June 1523, Gustav, nephew of Sten’s widow 

was elected as the king of Sweden. Meanwhile the 

Kalmar Union had come to an end. 

It was during the mid-sixteenth century that much of 

Kalmar’s most impressive architecture was erected under 

the reign of Christina, who was well educated and bred in 

Latin traditions. During her rule, Sweden saw a period of 

architectural splendour, which was dominated by the 

baroque styles. 

Bridge to Öland 

Kalmar City Wall 

Viking Windlass 

In April Kalmar is not the centre of tourism in Sweden. 

Kalmar was once a key town in the defence of Sweden 

against the Danes. After the breakdown of the union of 

Norway, Sweden and Denmark the Danes and the 

Swedes were regularly at war for control of the Baltic 

Sea. 

45

Kalmar was on the then frontier of 

Denmark and Sweden. 

These days Kalmar is a quiet city of 

35,000 people with a busy little port 

shuttling timber and other goods in 

and out of the area in small Baltic 

traders. 

46 

Entrance to Kalmar Castle 

In the Battle of Öland 1676, the 

Kronan capsized, exploded and sank 

in 26m of water about 6km of the 

coast of Öland not far from Kalmar. It 

seems the reasons for the loss were 

similar to those for the loss of the 

Mary Rose in England. 

The Kronan was 53m long, had 3 masts and displaced 

2300 tons. She carried 126 guns, 550 seamen and 

officers and 300 soldiers. She came into service in 1672 

and at the time was one of the largest warships afloat. 

One Portuguese and two English ships were larger. 

Kalmar Castle 

Chapel – Kalmar Castle 

The site of the wreck was discovered in August in 1980. 

Excavation of the wreck became the responsibility of the 

Kalmar Läns Museum and the displays of artefacts raised 

from the wreck are the highlights of the museum’s 

displays. To date some 25000 items have been raised, 

from personal effects to relics of the ship. Low salinity in 

the Baltic meant that timbers were unaffected by 

shipworm. Thus, many wooden items look in almost new 

condition except any painted decoration has gone. 

Displays, based on archaeological finds in this area, 

known as Möre, trace the life and culture of the people 

who lived in the region over 10000 years up to the Age of 

Vikings. 

A display of life in Kalmar in the Middle Ages includes a 

model of the old city (Gamla Stan) showing the 

relationship of the Castle to the City and the now 

demolished Storkyrkan. This 5 aisled Gothic church was 

located in the Gamla Kyrkogarden (graveyard) where 

there are many old gravestones that are kept clean by 

the city. 

Kalmar Castle 

The history of this legendary castle stretches back over 

800 years. During the 12th c a defence tower was 

erected to protect against pirates and other sea-faring 

enemies. A harbour was constructed and in the course of 

time a castle grew around the original tower. 

Kalmar Castle became soon “The Key to the Kingdom”, a 

significant defensive fortification on the Danish border 

with an essential part in international, political life. 

The Castle acquired its present appearance in the 16th c, 

when the Vasa kings, Erik XIV and Johan III rebuilt it in 

the style of a Renaissance palace and furnished it in 

continental manner. The last king, who lived in the Castle 

and issued governmental documents, was Karl XI. He 

was on the throne from 1673 to 1692. 

Kalmar Castle played a fundamental role in Scandinavian 

policy already in 1397, particularly as the meeting place

for the signing of the Union of Kalmar. 

On July 20th, 1397 Queen Margaret I 

signed the controversial yet 

memorable pact which joined all of the 

Nordic countries under a common 

ruler. In 1997 the city of Kalmar and 

the Castle celebrated the 600 years 

anniversary of the Union of Kalmar. 

display features a Royal feast, complete with a white 

swan and a pheasant as part of the table decoration. 

Table laid for a banquet – Kalmar Castle 

The Checkered Hall – Kalmar Castle 

Courtyard – Kalmar Castle 

Kalmar Castle has had a chequered 

history. Important for the defence of 

Kalmar in the days when Kalmar was 

a border town, the castle was 

regularly strengthened as warfare 

changed. It was regularly attacked 

and sometimes taken. 

The King’s Chamber – Kalmar Castle 

With the disappearance of the border the Castle had no 

military significance and was used as gaol and a distillery 

at different times. Fortunately, by the end of the 1850’s, 

interest in saving the Castle was growing and the first 

restorations commenced in 1919. Restoration continues. 

Many of the rooms are unfurnished. Others in the Royal 

Apartments and the Chapel are beautifully restored. One 

Gamla Stan - Kalmar 

The Konstmuseum is the local small art gallery in Gamla 

Stan. There is a gallery of permanent works and 2 

galleries for special exhibitions. An exhibition of 

photographs from the city of Kaliningrad is interesting. I 

think it was the work of a group of students. 

47

The medieval centre of Kalmar is 

today known as the Old Town - Gamla 

Stan. It lies just besides the Kalmar 

Castle. There are some wellpreserved 

17th and 18th century but 

most of the buildings are 20 th C 

homes and apartments. 

be clad in stone to minimize the risk of fire spreading 

through the city. 

The population followed slowly, after much pressure, and 

the wealthier citizens gradually began to build 

summerhouses on the land where the Old Town once 

was. 

On at least one occasion the Danes attacked Kalmar 

Castle from the land. As a result the city lay under the fire 

from both sides and any shots that fell short, fell on the 

city 

Kalmar Cathedral 

This entire area of the town was 

devastated by fire in 1647, after which 

the city council decided to move the 

centre to the island of Kvarnholmen, 

where it stands today. They also 

required new buildings to be of stone 

and any existing timber buildings to 

20 th C Apartments – Gamla Stan - Kalmar 

Town Square - Kalmar 

Kalmar Cathedral 

Klamar Cathedral is situated in the main square. 

Commenced in 1660 under Charles X and finished in 

1682 under Charles XII, it is known as “Charles Church”. 

The Cathedral in Kalmar is the only one in Sweden 

without a bishop. This imposing building was designed by 

Tessin the elder and built in Italian baroque style in the 

second half of the 17th century. 

The exterior of the Cathedral is being renovated and is 

encased in scaffolding. Although there have been 

planned changes to the building. These were never 

realised and consequently it is one of the few unchanged 

buildings from Swedish Great Power Era. 

48

Tuesday 26 April 2005 - Copenhagen – Stockholm Day 09 

Early train from Kalmar to Avesta to 

join the express to Stockholm 

This part of Sweden is flat and the 

train passes through farmland and 

forests with occasional pretty lakes. 

On arrival at Avesta the previous train 

to Stockholm was still in the station, 

almost an hour late. Fortunately my 

train is on time and arrives a few 

minutes later. The countryside 

remains much the same until we are 

approaching Stockholm and it 

becomes a little hillier. 

quaint streets, and you'll hear everything from Polish to 

Japanese. 

by a network of subways to Centralstationen (central train 

station); the popular gardens of Kungsträdgården lie just 

to the east. The subways link with the metro (tunnelbana 

or T) stations. The triangular island Stadsholmen and its 

neighbours accommodate Gamla Stan, separated from 

Norrmalm by the narrow channels of Norrström near the 

royal palace, but connected by several bridges. To the 

west of this is Lake Mälaren. 

Stockholm 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinatio 

ns/europe/stockholm/ 

Stockholm is, without doubt, one of 

the most beautiful national capitals in 

the world. The Old Town is particularly 

spectacular, and walking around the 

city's waterways and parks is a 

glorious way to spend a week-long 

stretch of European summer. 

This lovely, lively city, with its maritime 

bent and international flavour, is a 

magnet for immigrants as well as 

tourists. Over 15% of greater 

Stockholm's population are 

immigrants. Just stroll through the 

Stockholm Cathedral - Dom Kirke – Gamla Stan 

The city is ideally situated for trade connections, with the 

24,000 islands of the skärgård (archipelago) protecting 

the urban islands from the open seas. In fact, the city is 

best seen from the water, but once on land you won't 

want to miss out on the parklands of Djurgården, the 

alleys of Gamla Stan or the 50-plus museums bursting 

with world-class treasures. 

Area: 188 sq km 

Population: 755,000 

Country: Sweden 

Time Zone: GMT/UTC +1 

Telephone Area Code: 08 

Stockholm is built on islands, except for the modern 

centre (Norrmalm), which is focused around the ugly 

Sergels Torg. This business and shopping hub is linked 

Orientation 

Helgeadsholmen from the Palace 

On the south side of Stadsholmen, the main bridge 

Centralbron and the Slussen interchange connect with 

the southern part of the city, Södermalm, and its spine 

Götgatan. From its top end the giant golf ball of the 

stadium Globen is the southern landmark, although you'll 

cross water again at Skanstull before reaching it. To the 

east of Gamla Stan is the small island of Skeppsholmen, 

49

and farther down Strandvägen and 

past the berths you cross to 

Djurgården, topped by Skansen. 

History 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinatio 

ns/europe/stockholm/history.htm 

ordered the construction of a fort on one of the 

strategically placed islets where the fresh water entered 

the sea, and traffic on the waterways was controlled 

using timber stocks arranged as a fence, or boom. 

Stockholm, meaning 'tree-trunk islet', may well be named 

after this boom. 

The oldest record of the city consists of two letters dating 

from 1252. Within a hundred years, Stockholm was the 

largest city in Sweden, dominated by an impregnable 

castle (which was never taken by force) and surrounded 

by a defensive wall. During the period of the Kalmar 

Union, the king's governor directed affairs from the 

castle. The city was periodically ravaged by fire until 

timber buildings with turf roofs were replaced with brick 

structures. By the late 15th century, the population was 

around 6000, and Stockholm had become a significant 

commercial centre. Shipping copper and iron to 

continental Europe was a lucrative trade that was 

dominated by German merchants. 

the city walls at the Battle of Brunkeberg (the fighting took 

place between what is now Vasagatan, Kungsgatan and 

Sergels Torg). Even after the Danish retreat to 

Copenhagen, trouble between unionists and separatists 

continued. Things escalated in 1520 when city burghers, 

bishops and nobility agreed to meet the Danish King 

Christian II in Stockholm, and the king arrested them all 

at a banquet. After a quick trial, the Swedes were found 

guilty of burning down the archbishop's castle near 

Sigtuna, and 82 men were beheaded the following day at 

Stortorget (the main square by the castle). This ghastly 

event became known as the 'Stockholm Blood Bath': 

heavy rain caused rivers of blood from the bodies to pour 

down steep alleys descending from the square. 

50 

Stockholm Cathedral 

Swedish political power had been 

centered around Mälaren for 

centuries, but it was forced to move to 

the lake's outlet when the rising land 

made navigation for large boats 

between the sea and lake impractical. 

Sweden's most important chieftain in 

the mid-13th century, Birger Jarl, 

Biblical Scene – Wooden Figures - Stockholm 

Cathedral 

In 1471, the Danish King Christian I besieged Stockholm 

while attempting to quell the rebellious Sten Sture, but his 

5000-strong army was routed by the Swedes just outside 

Strömkajen from the Palace - Stockholm 

A major rebellion followed and Gustav Vasa finally 

entered the city in 1523 after a two-year siege. The new 

king then ruled the city with a heavy hand - though the 

role of commerce dwindled and the church was 

extinguished entirely, royal power grew and the city 

revolved around the court. Gustav's son Erik XIV (and 

later kings) racked up taxation on the burghers to fund 

wars. However, some did well from arms manufacture, 

and the city's importance as a military headquarters 

increased. At the end of the 16th century, Stockholm's

population was 9000, but this 

expanded in the following century to 

60,000 as the Swedish empire 

reached its greatest extent. 

Karl XII, the country (and the capital) went into 

stagnation. 

In the 18th century, Swedish science and arts 

blossomed, allowing the creation of institutions and fine 

buildings. Another period of stagnation followed the 

assassination of King Gustav III; promised 19th-century 

reforms never arrived, and bloody street riots were 

common. Further town planning starting in the 1860s 

created many of the wide avenues and apartment blocks 

still to be seen today. 

Since the country's entry into the European Union, 

Stockholm's progress towards becoming an affordable, 

vivacious tourist destination has continued apace. The 

easing of licensing restrictions on bars and restaurants, 

such as hours during which alcohol could be sold, type of 

alcohol sold and age of clientele, caused a huge increase 

in the number of licensed premises, helping create the 

vibrant Stockholm you see today. 

Royal Pew - Stockholm Cathedral 

I n the 17th century, town planners 

laid out a street grid beyond the 

medieval city centre and Stockholm 

was proclaimed capital of Sweden in 

1634. Famine wiped out 100,000 

people across Sweden during the 

harsh winter of 1696-7, and starving 

hordes descended on the capital. The 

old royal castle (Tre Kronor) burned 

down, also in 1697. In 1711, plague 

arrived and the death rate soared to 

1200 per day - from a population of 

only 50,000! After the death of King 

Opera House - Stockholm 

The city rapidly industrialised and expanded, and by 

1915 it was home to 364,000 people. The 1912 summer 

Olympics were held in Stockholm. The next major 

transformation of the city started in the 1960s, when large 

'new towns' sprung up around the outskirts and extensive 

areas of 'slums' were flattened to make way for concrete 

office blocks, motorways and other unsightly 

developments. The financial and construction boom of 

the 1980s helped make the city a very expensive place. 

Once that bubble burst during the 1990s recession, the 

devalued krona actually helped Stockholm - Swedish 

tourism grew, and foreign tourists arrived in everincreasing 

numbers. 

Attractions 

Sankt Jakobs Kirke 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/stockhol 

m/attractions.htm 

Haga Park 

Haga Park is a pleasant for walks, bicycle tours or 

strolling between museums. Gustav III's Paviljong is a 

superb example of late neoclassical style. The 

furnishings and décor reflect Gustav III's interest in all 

things Roman, developed during his Italian tour in 1782. 

In Fjärils & Fågelhuset (Butterfly House), there's an 

artificial tropical environment with free-flying birds and 

51

utterflies. There's also a shop and 

cafe. Haga Parkmuseum has displays 

about the park, its pavilions and the 

royal palace, Haga slot. 

The new palace, which has 608 rooms, was designed by 

the court architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, and 

wasn't completed until 57 years after the fire. 

The Changing of the Guard usually takes place in the 

outer courtyard at 12:10pm daily from June to August 

(but at 1:10pm on Sunday and public holidays). The rest 

of the year it's on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 

only. It can last over 20 minutes and is quite an 

interesting spectacle. 

Sweden occupy this attractive hill top. It's a spectacular 

'Sweden in miniature' and you could spend all day here. 

There are 46 buildings from rural areas around the 

country, including a Sami camp (with reindeer), 

farmsteads representing several regions, a manor house 

and a school. 

St George and the Dragon 

Kungliga Slottet 

Kungliga Slottet is the largest royal 

castle in the world still used for its 

original purpose. It was constructed 

on the site of the 'old' royal castle, Tre 

Kronor, which burned down in 1697. 

The walls of the north wing of the 

castle survived and were incorporated 

in the new palace, but the medieval 

designs are now concealed by a 

baroque exterior. 

AC Chapman 

By the outer courtyard, there's a shop selling souvenir 

books and kitschy gifts. Indoor photography in the Royal 

Palace isn't permitted. 

Skansen 

Skansen, the world's first open-air museum, was founded 

in 1891 by Artur Hazelius to let visitors see how Swedes 

lived in previous times. 

Today, around 150 traditional houses (inhabited by staff 

in period costume) and other exhibits from all over 

Skeppsholmen Church 

The Skansen Aquarium is a must - en route to the fish 

(including piranhas) you'll walk among the lemurs and 

see pygmy marmosets, the smallest monkeys in the 

world. 

Stadshuset 

The town hall is topped with a golden spire and the 

symbol of Swedish power, the three royal crowns. Inside 

is the beautiful mosaic-lined Gyllene Salen (Golden Hall), 

Prins Eugen's fresco re-creation of the lake view from the 

gallery, and the hall where the annual Nobel Prize 

banquet is held. Entry with tours only. 

Stockholm cards are good value. Besides entries to many 

venues, public transport and parking is included. 

52

Invaluable if you have a car. A word of 

caution, many of the museums are 

now free. 

I decide to walk from the Central 

Station instead of taking the 

underground as suggested by the 

hotel info. It didn’t take any longer 

than catching a train to Gamla Stan 

first. 

the rooms (small) are fitted like ships cabins. 

As I pass the palace on my way to Strömkajen to check 

times for the sightseeing ferry I also check opening times 

for the palace. 

The Riksdaghuset – Parliament Building – is on my way. 

A large imposing building, the vista is currently marred by 

building works. 

Våsterlånggatan 

The Lord Nelson Hotel is a quaint 

hotel in the main shopping street of 

Gamla Stan, Västerlanggatan, close 

to the palace and the cathedral. It is 

decorated with memorabilia from the 

days of Nelson and sailing ships and 

Strandvagän in the background 

First task is to work out what I can see and when. Many 

things are closed one day of the week, not always 

Monday, many have different opening hours at this time 

of year and some have different opening hours on 

different days of the week. Also I try to group things by 

location to minimize travel times. 

Stockholm Cathedral is built on the site of a smaller 

church destroyed by fire in the 13 th C. The new, larger 

church was consecrated in 1306. Major alterations took 

place during the 15 th C including raising the vaulting of 

the ceiling. The late Gothic structure that emerged now 

constitutes the core of the Storkyrka – the five aisled 

Stockholm Cathedral. The lavish baroque Royal Pews, 

pulpit and other gilded decorations were added in the 17 th 

C. The exterior is inspired by Italian Baroque. Its 

appearance was determined by the city architect in the 

18 th C to fit in between Tessin’s Royal Palace and the 

Stock Exchange. 

The huge wooden statue of St. George and the Dragon 

was unveiled in 1489. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stockholm_Cathedral 

Armémuseum 

Medieval Army Camp 

53

There is no doubt Stockholm is a 

beautiful city, scattered across several 

small islands. The buildings are grand 

and the busy waterways create 

marvellous views. I walk along the 

Strömkajen to the island of to take a 

closer look at the church, taking 

photos of ships and buildings as I go. 

The National Museum is near the 

bridge to Skeppsholmen. The 

museum has collections of paintings, 

sculpture, decorative arts, drawings 

and prints. Decorative arts from the 

period 1500 – 1740 are presented in a 

permanent display ‘Design in 

Sweden’. The permanent exhibit, 

‘Modern Design’, tracks Swedish 

design in the 20 th C. There was some 

controversy about building the 

museum during the 19 th century. 

Some members of parliament 

believed it to be only for the rich. 

http://www.nationalmuseum.se/Defaul 

t____2705.aspx 

Artillery men 

The current special exhibition is ‘The Body. Art and 

Science.” featuring historical and contemporary studies of 

the body: anatomical drawings, drawings from life, 

illustrations from medical books, wax casts and 

installations based on the body. 

An interesting exhibition! 

The Armémuseum chronicling the lives of soldiers, 

they’re families and everyone else through Swedish 

history from the Vikings to the present time. There are 

some interesting displays and notes, in English, are very 

helpful. 

http://www.armemuseum.org/uk/frameuk.htm 

One display contrasts an English Castle, Bodiam Castle, 

with a contemporary Swedish castle belonging to a 

nobleman of the same social status. Sue and I visited 

Bodiam, it is not very large, but it is much larger than the 

Swedish castle. 

Nordiska Museet – Djurgården 

Wednesday 27 April 2005 - Stockholm Day 10 

I intend to spend the morning at museums on 

Djurgården Island. Getting there I stroll along 

Strandvagän past many wooden sailing vessels, 

and fine apartment blocks with views of the 

harbour. This area, known as East Stockholm, was 

once a mixture of poor and rich, including summer 

homes for members of the royal court. In the early 

20 th C the area was redeveloped as an up market 

residential area, which it continues to be. 

The morning light provides a totally different view 

of places I had photographed yesterday, so more 

pictures. 

Djurgården Island has extensive parklands and 

many museums. It was once the royal hunting 

area. 

Perhaps the highlight museum is the Vasa 

Museum on Djurgården Island. The museum is 

located in a dry dock that was part of a naval 

dockyard during WWII. 

54

http://www.vasamuseet.se/Vasamuseet/Om/Musee 

t.aspx?lang=en 

The ship was the most expensive, lavishly 

appointed and one of the largest, a Royal Ship, in 

Sweden at the time. She was however much 

smaller than the Kronan which capsized in the 

Battle of Öland. The Vasa is 47.5m long, 

displacement of 1210 tons, 64 guns, 145 crewmen 

and 300 soldiers. 

condition that after it was pumped out the ship was 

able to float alone. 

Rikstaghuset – Parliament Building 

Model of the Shipyard - Djurgården 

Strandvagän 

Royal Palace - Stockholm 

Launched in 1627 the Vasa commenced its 

maiden voyage on August 10 1628. 20 minutes 

later it was struck by a gust of wind, heels, 

recovers and was then hit by another gust and 

capsizes and sinks in 32m of water in Stockholm 

harbour. 

Sankt Erik 

The ship was located in 1956 and in 1961 the ship 

was finally raised. The hull was in such good 

The Vasa - Vasa Museum 

An investigation into the capsize revealed that the 

ship was known to be tender and probably had 

insufficient ballast. Besides sailors, not a full crew, 

there were women and children on board, families 

of crewmen, and some of these were drowned. 

Their remains were found in the hull. 

55

aspects of everyday live of the Swedish people over the 

centuries. 

http://www.nordiskamuseet.se/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordiska_museet 

Another shows the development of tableware, mainly 

Swedish, during the same period. Several areas highlight 

changes in fashions and shoes. 

Table Setting - Nordiske Museet 

The Vasa - Vasa Museum 

When you walk into the museum you 

are awestruck by the sight of this 

enormous ship, with little obvious 

damage, towering over you. The 

lavish decoration has disappeared 

and researchers are recreating the 

paints that were used and will 

decorate a model in the exact same 

colours and paints. 

Many items have been recovered 

from the bottom of the harbour and 

are on display. 

Nearby is the Nordiska Museet, 

housed in a spectacular building built 

in 1907. The exhibitions display 

Reconstructed carvings from the Vasa 

Toy Display – Nordiske Museet 

A display of furniture traces the changes in domestic 

furniture and houses of ordinary people since 1500. 

Fashions - Nordiske Museet 

The museum would be more interesting if more 

information in English was provided. 

The Historiska Museet chronicles the history of Sweden 

in permanent and special exhibitions. As with other 

56

museums I have visited work is in 

progress on new displays for the 

coming summer season so a number 

of galleries are closed. 

http://www.historiska.se/info/english.ht 

ml 

have come from churches all over the country are 

brilliantly coloured and many are in excellent conditions. 

Likewise the wooden carved figures are in much better 

condition than others I have seen in Europe. There is a 

beautiful display of gold and silver religious items. 

This is housed in The Gold Room in a vault in the 

basement of the building. Many of the items display the 

skill of Viking artisans. 

Wooden Vault from the 14 th C – Historiska Museet 

Painted Wooden Ceiling - Historiska Museet 

Gustav Vasa – 1496-1560 – 

Nordiske Museet 

The Viking display describes everyday 

Viking life, crafts and customs. It also 

shows the richness of finds in some 

gravesites that reveal the wealth of 

some Viking leaders. 

There is a rich collection of medieval 

religious art. The altar screens that 

Altarpiece from 1479 – Historiska Museet 

The outstanding exhibition is the collection of gold and 

silver items discovered in hoards throughout the country. 

Boat - Medieval Museum of Stockholm 

It is mid afternoon and there is time to do two more things 

before everything shuts. I can catch the 15:30 sight 

seeing boat so I head back towards Strömkajen. On the 

way I come across Saluhall Market. Spend a few minutes 

57

looking at the range of foods and buy 

an enormous panini for dinner. 

The boat trip takes about an hour in 

the channels around Djurgården 

Island. A different view of some of the 

places I had photographed from land 

and a rest for the feet. 

The tour passes between Skeppsholmen (Ships home) 

and Djurgården. Skeppsholmen was once the 

headquarters of the Swedish navy and shipbuilding 

centre. The Vasa was built here. 

Last stop is The Medieval Museum of Stockholm. This is 

a scholarly presentation of medieval Gamla Stam and 

has displays of life and history or the medieval town. The 

museum is located under Norrbro and the forecourt of the 

Parliament and is centred on a portion of the town wall 

from around 1530 that was discovered in1978-80. More 

explanations in English would have been helpful. 

Wednesday 27 April 2005 - Stockholm Day 11 

The plan for the day is quite simple, 

explore Gamla Stan and 

Riddarsholmen and visit places of 

interest. 

Nothing opens until 11:00 so there is plenty of time to 

wander around the narrow streets of Gamla Stan and 

admire its 17 th and 18 th C buildings. 

At about 10:00 I am wandering past the palace when a 

small procession lead by mounted police and including a 

fine carriage drawn by four horses and another simpler 

carriage come up the hill, enter the courtyard and 

disappear into the palace. A band is playing to greet 

them. I have no idea who it was. 

Main Square – Gamla Stan 

Svenska Acadamien – Nobel Museum 

Gamla Stan and the smaller island of Helgeandsholmen 

form the boundary between the freshwater Lake Mälaren 

and the Baltic Sea. Barriers have been built under the 

bridges connecting the islands and the mainland and 

Södermalm to prevent seawater entering Lake Mälaren. 

A canal and locks to the south of Södermalm connect the 

sea with the lake. 

Main Square – Gamla Stan 

Riddarsholmkyrkan is Stockholm’s only remaining 

medieval abbey, built in the 13 th C. It is the last resting 

place of the Swedish monarchy and aristocracy. On the 

off chance that it will be open I visit it first. No luck it is not 

open until the 15 th May. 

58

creativity that has lead to the most significant 

achievements of the last 100 years. 

http://nobelprize.org/nobel/nobelmuseum/ 

Coaches approaching the Palace 

Radhus - Stockholm 

Riddarsholmkyrkan 

Nearby is the Riddarshuset. 

According to the guidebooks it is open 

from 11:30 to 12:30, but not today. 

Commissioned in the 17 th C by 

Swedish nobility, to whom it still 

belongs, it was the place where the 

nobility met to discuss matters of state 

and in the time when the Swedish 

parliament had four estates, the 

nobility, the clergy, the bourgeoisie 

(propertied commoners in the towns 

such as merchants, tradesmen, 

lawyers, etc), and the peasantry 

(freehold yeoman farmers); this was 

where the nobility met. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parliament 

_of_Sweden#History 

On Riddarsholm Island 

Plan B had to be brought into operation. The Nobel 

Museum in the Swedish Academy building is now open 

and is not far away. The building was once the stock 

exchange. This is an interesting, small museum that 

records the Nobel Laureates achievements. This year is 

the 100 th anniversary of the Nobel Prizes. Through a 

series of short films the museum presented by various 

Nobel Laureates the museum tries to define a culture of 

Riddarshuset 

At this time of year the Royal Palace Apartments and 

Museums are open from 12:00 to 15:00, a small window. 

The Palace is only round the corner from the Nobel 

59

Museum and when I arrive I find a 

crowd gathering in the courtyard. I 

soon discover it is the full changing of 

the guard, mounted band, guardsmen 

on horses, etc. After the guard has 

changed the band stays on and plays 

for some time. If I am to see all the 

things that are open in the palace I 

cant stay and listen to music. Anyway 

it can be heard from inside the palace. 

built on the site of the Tre Kronor castle that was 

destroyed by fire in 1697. Renovation of the northern 

section of the castle had commenced in 1692 under the 

direction of Nicodemus Tessin the Younger. He was 

commissioned immediately to prepare plans for 

rebuilding the palace and within six weeks of the fire he 

produced plans for a new palace incorporating the 

undamaged northern section. 

The Armoury has a display of weapons, armour, royal 

carriages and items of memorabilia from the wars that 

Sweden has fought with its neighbours. 

Changing the Guard 

Royal Palace Apartments - 

Stockholm 

The royal apartments and reception 

rooms, particularly the rooms 

featuring the Swedish orders of 

chivalry are interesting. The present 

castle dates from around 1750. It is 

Changing the Guard 

The Tre Kronor Museum is the cellars of the present 

palace and traces the history of the palace from the 

earliest castle on the site through the Tre Kronor castle to 

the present. The old castle walls and other buildings, 

ovens and wells can be seen. 

The Treasury houses and displays the Swedish Crown 

Jewels dating from the 16 th C are on display. The crowns 

and orbs and sceptres seem in contrast to the British 

Crown Jewels: they are brilliant yet have a lightness in 

design which is not evident in the British Crown Jewels. 

Perhaps the Swedish flair for design is an innate trait as 

most of the jewels were made in Stockholm. 

Royal Palace Apartments - Stockholm 

There is a current exhibition, Princesses, featuring 

Swedish princesses over the last few centuries. It was 

complete with participation areas for school children and 

there were school groups visiting the exhibition. No 

60

English information so I have no idea 

what was said about the princesses. 

Yesterday I passed the Hallwylska 

Museet. I planned to visit it if I had 

time and as it was only 15:00 I had 

time to go back and have a look. ‘A 

private palace from the turn of the last 

century, with valuable collections of 

art, handicrafts, and everyday 

household items. On entering the 

palace you feel you are going back a 

century in time’, is the description in 

the guidebook. 

I finished the day with a meal at a restaurant in the main 

square of Gamla Stan, Stortorget. People are eating 

outside, it’s about 12C, so it’s not too warm, but there is 

no wind and it is quite pleasant. In case you find it cold 

the restaurants provide a blanket. It was pleasant at first 

but it soon became quite cold as the sun disappeared. 

Built in the 1890’s the building 

incorporated features such as electric 

lighting, bedrooms as private areas, a 

bathroom, and central heating. 

Wilhelmenina von Hallwyl insisted that 

the best finishes and materials be 

used throughout and real Italian and 

Swedish marble is used in a number 

of rooms, unlike the Royal Palace 

where walls are painted to look like 

marble. 

Royal Carriage – Palace Stables - Stockholm 

During her lifetime Wilhelmena von Hallwyl collected 

more than 50,000 items. The collection is diverse, 

furniture, paintings, ceramics, arms, and silverware. The 

house and its collection are fascinating and I was 

fortunate to join an guided tour which included parts of 

the house not open to unguided visitors. 

Tomorrow Oslo 

Tre Kronor 

Norway 

http://odin.dep.no/odin/engelsk/norway/history/032005-990454/ 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/norway/index.htm 

Full country name: Kingdom of Norway 



Capital City: Oslo (pop 508,730) 

People: 97% Nordic, Alpine & Baltic, with a Sami minority 

Language: Norwegian Nynorsk, Norwegian Bokmål, Northern Sami 

Religion: Christian (86.3% Evangelical Lutheran) 

Government: constitutional monarchy 

Head of State: King Harald V 

Head of Government: Prime Minister Kjell Magne Bondevik 



Annual Growth: 3.5% 

Inflation: 3.1% 

Major Industries: Oil, natural gas, computers, high technology, fishing, fish 

farming, forestry, shipping, shipbuilding, paper production 

Major Trading Partners: EU (esp. UK, Germany & Sweden) 

Member of EU: No 

61

Norway is a ruggedly beautiful country of mountains, fjords and glaciers. The 

'Land of the Midnight Sun' has delightfully long summer days, pleasantly lowkey 

cities, unspoiled fishing villages and rich historic sites that include Viking 

ships and medieval stave churches. 

Norway prizes its stunning natural wonders and retains a robust frontier 

character unusual in Europe. It's not all frozen tundra, either. The temperate 

south includes rolling farmlands, enchanted forests and sunny beaches as 

well as the dramatic Western Fjords. 

North of the Arctic Circle, the population thins, the horizons grow wider and 

the temperature dips. Here the terrain ranges from soaring coastal peaks to 

vast boreal forests and barren treeless peninsulas. Adventurous travellers 

can journey even further north to the Svalbard archipelago, where seals, 

walruses and polar bears sun themselves on ice floes. 

History 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/norway/history.htm 

Norway's first settlers arrived over 10,000 years ago, at the end of the Ice 

Age. These early hunters and gatherers followed the glaciers as they 

retreated north, pursuing migratory reindeer herds. The country's greatest 

impact on history was during the Viking Age, a period thought to have begun 

with the plundering of England's Lindisfarne monastery by Nordic pirates in 

793 AD. Over the next century the Vikings made raids throughout Europe, 

establishing settlements along the way. Viking leader Harald Hårfagre (Fair- 

Hair) unified Norway around 900 and King Olav, adopting the religion of the 

lands he had conquered, converted the people to Christianity a century later. 

The Vikings were great sailors and became the first to cross the Atlantic 

Ocean. Eric the Red, the son of a Norwegian exiled to Iceland, colonised 

Greenland in 982. In 1001, Eric's Icelandic son, Leif Eriksson, became 

possibly the first European to explore the coast of North America when he 

sailed off course on a voyage from Norway to Greenland. However, the 

Viking Age came to an end in 1066 when the Norwegian king Harald 

Hardråda was killed at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in England. 

In the 13th century Oslo emerged as a centre of power. It continued to 

flourish until the mid-14th century when bubonic plague decimated its 

population. In 1397 Norway was absorbed into a union with Denmark which 

lasted over 400 years. Norway was ceded to Sweden in 1814. That same 

year a defiant Norway - fed up with forced unions - adopted its own 

constitution, but its struggle for independence was quelled by a Swedish 

invasion. In the end, Norwegians were allowed to keep their new constitution 

but were forced to accept the Swedish king. Growing nationalism eventually 

led to Norway's peaceful secession from Sweden in 1905. 

Norway stayed neutral during both world wars but was occupied by the Nazis 

in 1940. King Håkon set up a government in exile and placed most of 

Norway's huge merchant fleet under the command of the Allies. An active 

Resistance movement fought tenaciously against the Nazis, who responded 

by razing nearly every town and village in northern Norway during their 

retreat. The royal family returned at the end of the war. 

In 1960 Norway joined the European Free Trade Association but has been 

reluctant to forge closer bonds with other nations, partly due to concerns 

about its ability to preserve small-scale farming and fishing. North Sea oil and 

natural gas finds brought prosperity to the country in the 1970s, as left-wing 

governments over two decades fostered increased central planning, 

economic controls, socialised medicine, state-sponsored higher education, 

and what the government has liked to represent as the 'most egalitarian 

social democracy in western Europe'. Norway has since achieved one of the 

highest standards of living in the world. 

Although modern Norway enjoys an EU concession which grants it trading 

privileges as a member of the EFTA (along with other European non-EU 

members Iceland, Switzerland and Liechenstein), it continues to remain 

outside the EU and has so far refused to compromise its position on fishing, 

whaling and other economic issues. 

While a majority of Norwegian voters remain adverse to taking directives from 

Brussels and hope to maintain their internal controls and subsidies, many folk 

- particularly urban-dwellers and people in the southern part of the country - 

recognise that Norway cannot remain forever isolated from the larger world 

economy. 

62

Friday 29 April 2005 - Stockholm to Oslo Day 12 

The day starts with forecast for 15C in 

Stockholm and as the train leaves 

Stockholm Central at 07:00 the sun is 

shining. By 09:00 it has become 

overcast as we head west towards 

Norway and at about 10:30 it starts to 

rain. 

We a travelling through farmland and 

forest and there are signs that winter 

has not long gone. There are patches of frozen snow in 

gullies and the farmers have just started ploughing for the 

new crops. Spot one deer in a field. 

Oslo is dull and damp when we arrive. Hotel is about 10 

minutes walk from the central station. Planning for the 

weekend is complicated by Sunday, May 1, being Labour 

Day and a public holiday so some museums and galleries 

will be closed. The Information Centre has a list of what is 

and what is not open and an Oslo card will be worthwhile 

for 2 days. 

Near the hotel is the Gamle Aker Kirke – Old Acre 

Church – the oldest church from the Middle Ages in Oslo. 

It was built around the year 1150 and despite 2 fires due 

to lightning strikes and several renovations the interior 

remains basically the same as the original. 

Gamle Aker Kirke – Old Acre 

Church 


Church 


Church 

Dom Kirke - Oslo 

63

The Dom Kirke is unusual amongst 

cathedrals I have seen on this trip. 

Most are Gothic Cathedrals. This is 

not: it has a simple arched wooden 

planked ceiling covered with paper 

upon which the decorations have 

been painted. Unfortunately the paper 

is coming off the ceiling along the 

plank joints. 

A small orchestra was practicing in 

the Cathedral and the acoustics were 

magnificent. 

The rain is now very light so I can 

walk around and have a look at the 

centre of the city. 

Houses near Gamle Aker Kirke 

Before I left home I arranged to meet Barbara Kilfoyle 

and her friend Helen at their hotel for dinner. They are 

waiting for me in the lobby and we have a drink before 

venturing out in the rain to find somewhere to eat. 

Barbara has some ideas, with the help of the Lonely 

Planet Guide so we hop on a tram and head to the 

Grünerløkka district. We soon find a place where the food 

and the price look OK. We go in, no one is eating, so I 

ask if food is being served. It is! We sit down and order 

and a very pleasant meal is soon produced. A bottle of 

wine costs a fortune, we have it anyway. 

Back on the tram to the Central Station and I get off to 

walk back to my hotel. I think Barbara and Helen should 

have got off too. I’ll see where they finished up when I 

see them tomorrow night. 

Saturday 30 April 2005 - Oslo Day 13 

With a holiday tomorrow I plan to see those 

museums that are not going to be open tomorrow. 

Oslo Rådhus is supposed to open at 09:00. 

function on and young people with parents are 

arriving. The young women are dressed in 

traditional costume and the boys are all in suits. 

Could be a graduation ceremony. Anyway all I can 

do is have a look at the outside, particularly the 

highly coloured illustrations of Norse Legend, and 

take a few photos. 

Parliament - Oslo 

Oslo Harbour 

I start out intending to have a quick look at the old 

fort and visit the Rådhus soon after nine. On the 

way I pass the Parliament building at one end of a 

park which leads up to the Royal Palace. I arrive 

as planned to find it is not open today. There is a 

Odin on Sleipner 

Odin, the most powerful of gods, is riding his 

eightlegged Sliepner, the fastest stallion in the 

world. Odin’s spear Gungne strikes everything he 

hurls it at. On his arm he has the valuable ring 

Draupne, which drips eight equally beautiful rings 

every ninth night. Odin’s two ravens Hugin 

(thought) and Munin (memory) fly out every day 

into the wide world and bring news back to their 

master. Here they guide Odin in the twilight of the 

forest. 

64

Odin on Sleipner Royal Palace - Oslo Victoria Terrace 

Like palaces in Denmark and Sweden the palace was 

designed to show the rest of Europe how important 

Norway was. It is quite impressive, standing at the top of 

the hill looking down on Karl Johans Gate and the 

Parliament building. 

Rådhus - Oslo 

Residence near the Palace 

The next museum I plan to visit is supposed to open at 

11:00, more of that later, so I head off to the Royal 

Palace (Slottet) and the Slottsparken which surrounds. I 

pass the National Theatre, an impressive building that 

was surrounded by scaffolding, so no picture. As I walked 

into the Slottsparken I noticed a large white building, 

shown as Victoria Terrace on the map. I don’t what it was 

but it appears that it is now part of some government 

department offices. 

Colbjørnsensgata 

From the front of the Palace to Frogner Parken and 

Vigelansparken is about 2km through some rather 

65

upmarket houses and apartments. 

There is a mixture of building styles 

from timber clad buildings to more 

modern brick apartment blocks. 

Nevertheless it is a very pleasant and 

will be leafy part of town. 

Time to head back to the Kulturhistorisk Museum (The 

University Museum of Cultural Heritage). When I arrive I 

find it opened at 10:00 and doesn’t close till 18:00, 

contrary to all the published material I have. 

http://www.khm.uio.no/english/hist_museum/index.shtml 

This museum was opened in 1904 and includes displays 

of the life of Norwegians through 9000 years. The Stone 

Age to Viking age is portrayed through the artefacts that 

have been found and reconstructions of life at various 

times. 

Part of the medieval display includes a vaulted church 

ceiling, from the 12 th C, similar to that of the Dom Kirke. 

In this case the decoration is painted directly onto the 

boards. 

Around the corner is the Nasjonalgalleriet (The National 

Gallery). It is part of the National Museum of art, 

architecture and design and houses the largest collection 

of work by Norwegian artists. 

Vigeland Park 

66 

Palace Guard 

Frogner Parken is a large park to the 

north west of the centre of Oslo. Its 

main claim to fame is that within it is 

the Vigelansparken contain over 200 

statues of nude human figures of all 

ages and in all sorts of relationships to 

one another. There are children 

playing, parents playing with their 

children, lovers, older people sitting 

together. If you can imagine it there is 

probably a sculpture portraying it. 

Fountain – Vigeland Park 

An interesting display is the collection of coins from about 

950 to the present. 

The display of life in the Arctic is very good. The display 

features the way of life of the Eskimos, Sámi and Inuit in 

a cold and harsh environment. 

Kulturhistorick Museum

Applied Art). Also part of the National Museum of art, 

architecture and design, the museum exhibits Norwegian 

and international applied art, fashion and design from the 

7 th C to the present. The exhibitions of 20th C design in 

furniture, domestic appliances, glassware and decorative 

items presents an explanation and illustrations of the 

various design styles of the century. 

in Scandinavia. For some reason, they seem to have 

survived the centuries better than similar items in other 

parts of Europe and Great Britain. 

It’s my turn to find a place to eat so I check a couple of 

places near my hotel; listed in the Lonely Planet is the 

Stortorvets Gjæstgiveri Restaurant near the main square. 

This is the oldest restaurant in Oslo. Prices are a bit rich, 

but then they are everywhere in Scandinavia if you want 

a decent meal. Barbara and Helen decide they would like 

to splash out a little and so that is where we had a very 

nice meal and shared a bottle of red. 

By the way they realised as soon as I got off the tram last 

night that we were at the station and they should get off 

too. The tram had to stop for traffic lights and the driver 

kindly let them off, otherwise they would have been on a 

tour of Oslo. 

Column – Vigeland Park 

There are many works by Edvard 

Munch, including the famed ‘Scream’. 

One room features his work, but there 

are other pieces throughout the 

gallery. Cezanne, Monet and Manet 

are well represented. 

The collection of sculpture is quite 

small and includes works by well 

known sculptures such as Rodin. 

The final museum for the day is the 

Kunstindustimuseet (Museum of 

Sami Costume 

The museum has large collection of 16 th and 17 th C 

tapestries, works by many of the famous weavers in 

France, Brussels and Norway. I have been impressed 

rightly or wrongly by the condition of the tapestries and 

furniture from the 16 th and 17 th C in museum and castles 

Stortorvets Gjæstgiveri Restaurant 

67

Sunday 1 May 2005 - Oslo Day 14 

The suburban area of Bygdøy is home 

to five museums and many palatial 

homes and one of the museums 

opens at 09:00 today. 

A little out of town, Bygdøy can be 

reached by bus or ferry. I choose the 

bus as it is quicker and stops right 

outside the Vikingskiphuset – The 

Viking Ship Museum – that also opens 

first. 

http://www.khm.uio.no/english/viking_ship_museum/inde 

x.shtml 

An early, 08:30, Sunday morning walk through the centre 

of Oslo gives a very poor impression of the city. It is filthy, 

broken bottles, drink containers, food wrappers and vomit 

litter the streets. I might add it is not much better later in 

the day. An impression of Copenhagen, Stockholm and 

Oslo is one of a lot of rubbish on the streets. 

Buckets found with one of the ships 

Oseberg ship – Viking Ship 

Museum 

Vikingskiphuset - Oslo 

Modern apartments - Bygdøy 

The Viking Ship Museum houses three ships and the 

relics that were found with them. The ships were all found 

in graves of important people. The ships are different. 

The Oseberg ship, excavated in 1904, was a burial ship 

for an important Viking woman. The ship was lightly 

constructed and archaeologists believe it was a 

ceremonial ship and had not been used for ocean going 

voyages. No valuable jewellery was found at the sight. It 

had probable been looted by grave robbers on the Middle 

Ages. However, many wooden and bronze items were 

found. A wooden cart and a number of sleighs were also 

found. This was the richest of the finds. 

68

Carving from a sleigh found with 

one of the ships 

Fram – Bow reinforcement Small boat construction Stave Church - Norsk Folkemusem 

The other two ships, the Gokstad ship excavated in 

1880 and the Tune ship excavated in 1867, are 

more substantial ships, suitable for ocean voyages. 

Each was the burial ship for an important man. The 

Tune appears to have been built for sailing as its 

design differs from the others. 

Although the Viking ships from Norway, Sweden 

and Denmark are very similar these Norwegian 

ships seem to differ in a number of ways from the 

Danish ships. Hulls seem broader and flatter, oars 

pass through holes in the hull that are closed when 

the ship is under sail and there are covered decks. 

There are no seats for the rowers. 

Palatial home - Bygdøy 

The Kon-Tiki Museum is the home for the Institute 

for Pacific Archaeology and Cultural History. The 

display features the voyages and research by Thor 

Heyerdahl from the Kon-Tiki expedition in 1947 to 

the voyage of the Tigris across the Indian Ocean in 

1978. 

The balsa log raft Kon-Tiki and the reed boat Ra II 

are on display. The Institute continues to sponsor 

research and next year a new Kon-Tiki expedition 

is planned. 

On display outside the Fram Museum is the Gjøa; 

the first vessel to sail through the North West 

Passage. Built in 1872. 

69

http://www.fram.museum.no/en/ 

http://college.hmco.com/history/readerscomp/ships 

/html/sh_038400_gjoa.htm 

Captain Roald Amundsen and 6 crew members 

sailed Gjøa from Norway on 17 th June 1903. 

in 1906. Arrived in San Francisco October 1906 

and was placed in the Golden Gate Park. 

explorers used the ship Fram for their expeditions 

to the Arctic and Antarctic. The building was built 

around the Fram after she had been hauled out of 

the water. 

The Fram is described as the world’s strongest 

ship. In some places the hull is 80cm thick and 

bow and stern are both reinforced with steel to 

protect against ice. Her hull shape is such that 

pressure from the ice forces the ship up and does 

not crush the ship. She has survived 2 years in the 

pack ice. It was the Fram that carried Amundsen to 

Antarctica for his expedition to the South Pole 

beating Robert Scott by about a month. 

Ra II – Kon-tiki museum - Bygdøy 

Gjøa – First ship to travel through the North 

West Passage 

Gjøa was returned to Oslo in 1972 and officially 

delivered to the Norwegian Maritime Museum on 

17th July 1972 

70 

Kon-tiki 

Stayed 23 months in Gjøa Harbour to carry out 

scientific research. Continued to King Point in 

summer 1905 and completed the transit to Nome 

Fram 

The Fram museum displays the achievements of 

Norwegian Polar explorers, Fridtjof Nansen, Otto 

Sverdrup and Roald Amundsen. Each of these 

Fram – massive frames. 

Norsk Sjøfartsmuseum – Norwegian Maritime 

Museum – has a large display of models of ships, 

ancient and modern, that have sailed the seas 

from Norway. There is also a collection of 

traditional boats, mainly built around the beginning 

of the 20 th C, from Norway’s coastal communities. 

The construction and hull shape of the boats is 

very like the Viking ships. 

Finally the Norsk Folkemuseum is an open air 

collection of buildings from the 17 th C to the early 

20 th C. The highlight of the exhibition is the Stave

Church from Gol, Hallingdal, built around 1200. 

The church required extensive restoration and 

changes made during the Reformation were 

removed. Paintings on the nave and apse date 

from 1652. 

Time at the museums has just about run out so 

back on the bus to the city and a walk around the 

enormous Akershus Fortress that looks out over 

the Oslo Fjord. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akershus_Fortress 

Farm - Norsk Folkemusem 

Fram – model 

http://www.norskfolke.museum.no/ 

Norsk Folkemusem 

Stave Church - Norsk Folkemusem 

Rural buildings, homes and farm buildings, from 

many areas of Norway are displayed. 

Barn - Norsk Folkemusem 

In 1624 the town of Oslo was destroyed by fire. 

King Christian IV decreed the town be moved 

closer to the Akershus Fortress. The town was 

called Christiania and was laid out with wide 

streets to prevent fire from spreading and buildings 

were to be of stone or brick. In the 1800’s new 

suburbs appeared that were not so well planned. 

Examples of houses and other buildings from the 

1600’s to the early 1900’s have been relocated in 

the museum, providing snapshot of architecture in 

Oslo. 

Akershus Fortress - Oslo 

71

Monday 2 May 2005 - Oslo to Balestrand Day 15 

Here I am at the historic Kvikne’s 

Hotel on the shores of the 

Sognefjorden looking out over the 

fjord at a snow-covered mountain. 

There has been an inn here since 

1752, the Holman Inn, which was 

bought by the Kvikne family in 1877 

and renamed the hotel Balholm. The 

family still runs the hotel today. 

change trains will take nearly 5 hours. We climb 

continuously and as we do pockets of snow on the 

northern slopes of the mountains appear and besides 

rivers and lakes there is still the remains of the winter ice. 

However the birch trees are bursting into leaf. Two weeks 

ago in Copenhagen the buds were just starting to open. 

Frozen Lake - Geilo 

Yacht at Flåm 

It has been a rather dull and overcast 

day with occasional light rain. 

Finse Railway Station 

Today has been travel day, leaving Oslo at 08:11 and 

climbing into the mountains through pretty suburbs of 

Oslo. Pictures from the train are a waste of time as trees 

flash by in the foreground. The trip to Myrdal where I will 

Waterfall – Flåm Railway 

As we pass farms there are buildings similar to those in 

the Norsk Folkemusem complete with sod roofs. A sod 

roof provides excellent insulation. 

The train continues to climb and at Geilo we have passed 

the tree line and a stark black and white landscape is 

developing. The nearby lake is frozen. 

About 4 hours from Oslo we reach the town of Finse the 

highest point on the Oslo – Bergen train line at 1222m. 

Here you can ski all the year round and snow is up to the 

eaves of many buildings. There are no roads to Finse. 

http://www.finse1222.no/engindex.htm 

72

We are now on the Hardangervidda 

Plateau and as we begin our descent 

the train passes through many snow 

sheds some of which are still covered 

with snow. 

http://www.flaamsbana.no/eng/Index.html 

http://www.sognefjord.no/ 

Flåm River 

Flåm 

Despite the grey weather the scenery as we travel down 

the fjord is spectacular; rugged snow capped mountains, 

thundering waterfalls, picturesque villages and seals on 

the banks of the fjord. 

Another waterfall - Flåm Railway 

At Myrndal we change to the Flåm 

railway that descends over 800m, 

through the Flåm river valley, in 20km 

to Flåm village on the Aurlandsfjorden 

arm of the Sognefjorden. There are 

spectacular waterfalls and gorges to 

be seen during the descent. At one 

point the train completes a 360 o turn 

inside the mountain. 

Flåm Railway Station 

The village of Flåm is a pretty little village of 400 people 

serving as base for the railway and a terminal for the ferry 

to Gudvangen and the Sognefjorden express boat to 

Bergen. It is the express boat that I am to catch to 

Balestrand. 

Ferries at Flåm 

73

Aurlandsfjorden 

Seal - Sognefjorden 

The dining room and several other rooms where you can 

sit and read are in the original building that is in the 

‘Swiss’ architectural style. There is an impressive 

collection of artwork on the walls of these rooms. 

Waterfall - Sognefjorden 

I am staying in the multistorey block of 

the hotel in a comfortable room 

overlooking the fjord and the ferry 

dock. As I write this a pretty little 

passenger ship the Lofoten ties up for 

the night. 

Dinner comes with the deal and I enjoyed a very nice 

four-course meal in the company of 2 people from Palo 

Alto, California. Dolphins are swimming in the fjord below 

the window. 

Undredal - Sognefjorden 

74

Tuesday 3 May 2005 - Balestrand Day 16 

Besides the glaciers, Fjærland’s other claim to 

fame is second hand bookshops. There is 4km of 

shelving in a large number of small bookshops. 

very early in the season. The others are going to 

overnight in Fjærland. There is a family with two 

small boys who have booked a cabin near the 

Museum and the others are planning to walk up on 

to the glacier and overnight there. 

Kivkne’s Hotel - Balestrand 

Today I have an excursion to Fjærland to visit the 

Norwegian Glacier Museum and two glaciers fed 

by the massive Jostedalsbreen icecap; the 

Supphellebreen and the Bøyabreen. (breen = 

glacier) 

Fjærlandfjord 

MS Lofoten at Fjærland 

Fjærlandfjord 

Fjærland 

We travel on the vehicle ferry, Fjærlandfjord, 

named after the fjord, which is a branch of the 

Sognefjorden; there are 7 of us, no vehicles. It is 

Otzi – the Ice Man - Glacier Museum 

75

We arrive just in time for the screening of the 18 minute, 

multiscreen film of the ice flow and the glaciers. Filmed 

from a helicopter it provides a spectacular introduction to 

the region. 

Supphellebreen 

The Fjærlandfjord 

Supphellebreen with two French 

boys 

There are a number of small 

settlements on the banks of the fjord. 

Some a farms and others are summer 

homes. Many seem to be accessible 

only from the fjord. 

The fjord is a pale green colour due to 

the presence of suspended clay 

brought down by the melt waters. 

Although the Sognefjorden is 1200m 

deep in some places, the entrance is 

relatively shallow. The fjord is tidal 

however the upper layers of the upper 

reaches are fresh due to the large 

volumes of water from the snowfields. 

Bøyabreen 

The weather is not brilliant, showers of rain, low cloud 

with occasional sunshine on the snow-capped 

mountains. The ferry trip takes about an hour and a half. 

At Fjærland a bus is waiting to take us to the Glacier 

Museum. 

http://www.bre.museum.no/index_engelsk.html 

Hotel Mundal - Fjærland 

There are excellent displays showing exploration in the 

Antarctic, the role that things trapped in glaciers play in 

providing a record of the earths climatic history, the 

76

formation of glaciers, what happens 

when volcano erupts through a 

glacier, stories of people trapped in 

the ice and discovered years later. 

There is a comprehensive display 

about the 5000 years old iceman, 

Otzi, found in the European Alps in 

1991. 

to walk right up to the face of the glacier and the children 

with us were able to play on the ice. 

School group returning to the aquarium 

Church - Fjærland 

Avalanche of Snow 

The rain has eased but it is still 

overcast. 

We head next to the Supphellebreen, 

this is the lowest lying glacier in 

southern Norway, just 60m above sea 

level. The glacier is kept alive by ice 

avalanches from the glacier 800m 

higher up the mountain. It is possible 

Jostedalsbreen 

The icefall at Bøyabreen moves down the mountain at 

2m a day, so regular icefalls (calving) are expected. This 

is the main source of melt water for the river. There is a 

lake at the bottom of the icefall that is still frozen over and 

the snow is too deep to walk to it. 

Letterbox - Fjærland 

77

The visits to the museum and the 

glaciers finish at about 13:30, back at 

the ferry dock, leaving about 2 hours 

to look at the town. There is not a lot 

to do; a walk around the town, a peep 

inside the church and a few minutes 

browsing in some of the many second 

hand bookshops does not take very 

long. 

On our arrival a couple that were 

conducting a bird watching pilot 

program for the Hotel Mundal 

approached us. I think this is the only 

one in town. It was built in 1891 in the 

‘Swiss’ style. It, along with the 

Kvikne’s Hotel, is one of the few 

remaining large wooden hotels in 

Norway. They wanted to know if 

anyone was interested in spending 

some time looking at birds on the 

wetlands in the river estuary. I thought 

it a good way to spend some of the time after the tour 

and when I returned alone they were waiting for me. 

View from my room 

The wetlands have recently been declared a sanctuary 

and are closed to humans during the summer to allow 

migrating birds visit and to breed. Up to 50 varieties of 

birds visit the wetland and today there were about a 

dozen. There were several varieties of seagull, a tern, 

several petrels, a variety of waders and several different 

ducks. 

An observation tower is to be built to make it easier to 

see the smaller birds nesting in the tussocks. The project 

seems a worthwhile one. 

A stroll around the town and it soon time to return to the 

ferry. The weather has improved a little and there is some 

sun on the mountains making the trip back more 

pleasant. 

There is a brilliant view of the Jostedal Glacier, bathed in 

bright sunlight. 

The weather seems to be clearing and with a little luck 

the fine weather will return. The view of the mountains 

from my room window is much clearer tonight. 

Wednesday 4 May 2005 – Balestrand to Bergen Day 17 

The dolphins are still swimming back and forth 

outside the dining room window. 

Balestrand is a pretty little town that has been 

summer tourist centre for at least 150 years. It is 

centrally located for access to the glaciers, 

mountain walks, fishing and visits to other fjord 

side towns. 

Kivkne’s Hotel - Balestrand 

The weather is looking much more promising today 

and I decide to walk up into the forest on one of the 

nature walks that are available. They all start near 

the school that is located about 100m up the 

mountainside. 

Grave Mound - Balestrand 

78

Kivkne, the English wife of Knut Kvikne. She was the 

daughter of an Anglican minister. It was built in the style 

of the Stave Churches using contemporary methods. It is 

a pretty little church and its large windows make it quite 

bright inside. 

St Olaf’s is now the responsibility of Diocese of Gibraltar 

in Europe whose headquarters are in London and which 

cares for chaplaincies in Europe. 

There are a number of grave mounds in Balestrand. I 

passed one on the way up the hill. Few relics were found 

and it is not clear if it was a Viking grave or much earlier 

in 4 th of 5 th C, the migration period. A site beside the fjord 

contains several grave mounds and barrows. Sufficient 

artefacts have been found to establish that the site was 

first used in the migration period and again during the 

Viking Age. 

Nature Walk - Balestrand 

It is a pleasant walk up the hill and 

when I get to the start I find the walks 

are graded. Some climb to the top of 

nearby mountains that are snow 

covered at present. There are 

warnings that the walks are for 

experienced walkers only. One is 

however quite easy, along well 

marked paths, and with lots of signs in 

English explaining features of the 

forest and identifying the trees and 

wildlife. 

I descend to the fjord and back to the 

town past a little wooden Anglican 

church, St Olaf’s, that was built in 

1897 as the result of fund raising 

efforts by Margaret Sophia Green 

House - Balestrand 

Viking King Bele’s Grave Mound 

There is a small aquarium in Balestrand that focuses on 

the aquatic environment of the Sognefjorden. At this time 

of year thing are quiet and payment is on an honour 

system; put your 25kr in a slot and take a ticket. 

The displays are excellent and so is the explanatory book 

in English that is closely linked to the displays, unlike 

some others I have seen. The aquarium has been 

conducting research on the aquatic life and ecology of 

the fjord, monitoring fish stocks, water temperatures and 

nutrient levels for 25 years. Most of the fieldwork is done 

by school children that visit the aquarium and go out onto 

the fjord and collect data and specimens. The specimens 

they collect are used to maintain the displays. 

There has been a group of children each day and this 

afternoon there is a group untangling fishing nets on the 

jetty. 

The afternoon weather is still OK, but from time to time a 

strong cold wind blows down from the mountain and the 

formerly sunlit snowfield become shrouded in cloud. It 

looks like a good reason not to take the mountain walks 

at this time of year, unless you are well prepared. 

79

on the fjord and the mountains produces some 

marvellous lighting effects. Later as we approach the 

entrance to fjord the mountains are smaller and most of 

the snow has gone. 

St Olaf’s - English Church - 

Balestrand 

Roof - St Olaf’s 

The express ferry to Bergen leaves at 16:55 so I return to 

the hotel for a while as there is little else I can do in the 

time left. 

The ferry arrives on time and departs for the 3¼ hr trip. 

There are several stops at pretty little towns. At first we 

travel past towering snow capped mountains and 

cascading waterfalls. The mixture of sunlight and cloud 

Kivkne’s Hotel – Balestrand 

School group at the Aquarium Sognefjorden Aquarium Sognefjorden 

80

Sognefjorden 

Sognefjorden 

Bergen 

The approaches to Bergen are through a series of 

channels between the mainland and islands. At 

some places the channel is very narrow and the 

ferry has to slow down to negotiate some of the 

narrow, sharp turns in the channel. 

The Hotel Neptun is 100m from the ferry dock. 

Cargo Ship - Sognefjorden 

Sognefjorden 

Thursday 5 May 2005 - Bergen - Cruise Day 1 Day 18 

The day dawns pretty wet and miserable. 

After a rather late breakfast I set out at about 09:15 

to reconnoitre; there is no one about and then the 

penny drops, it’s Ascension holiday, 40 days after 

Easter. Nothing is going to be open. This doesn’t 

matter as I planned to leave visits to museums etc 

until I returned from the cruise. 

I wander about and take a few pictures in the 

drizzle and notice the Fløibanen, the funicular from 

the city to Mount Fløyen is nearby. It is too wet to 

do much so I return to the hotel and by checkout 

time at 1200 the weather has cleared a little and I 

head for the Fløibanen without a plan for the 

afternoon. The station at the top is at 320m above 

sea level, so there are spectacular views of the 

81

city, even in the drizzle. The mist and drizzle clears 

occasionally giving a much brighter view. 

marked trail, the scouts had to follow instructions 

and use a map. They had to pass checkpoints on 

the way. 

As I start down it gets brighter and I have a 

marvellous view of Bergen. 

Theatre - Bergen 

Jogger in the mist – Mt Fløyen 

I was about to head down again when I noticed 

families picnicking in the rain and scouts and cubs 

heading off into the forest along well marked 

walking tracks. I had a chat with the ladies 

registering the participants. It was a family day and 

parents and scouts and cubs (boys and girls) were 

engaged in different walks, up to 5km through the 

forest on the mountain. The cubs were going on a 

Forest – Mt Fløyen 

Bergen – through the mist from Mt Blåmanen 

I was wearing my walking boots; I’ve worn these 

most days, as they are much better on the rough 

cobbled footpaths here, so I decided to go for a 

walk. About an hour and quarter later I finished up 

on the top of Mount Blåmanen at 568m. Can’t see 

more than about 100m for the cloud and rain, then 

suddenly the clouds clear and below me is the city. 

Lake on Mt Blåmanen 

Back at the Fløibanen station at about 15:00 I head 

down to the city and take a quick walk around the 

World Heritage listed area of Bryggen. This is a 

series of timber warehouses and shops that were 

constructed by members of the Hanseatic League 

of merchants who dominated trade in the region in 

the late Middle Ages. The weather is deteriorating 

and it is nearly 16:00, pickup for the cruise is at 

17:00, so I head back to the hotel to dry out. 

The Hanseatic League 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanseatic_League 

http://www.infoplease.com/ce6/history/A0822651.h 

tml 

The Hanseatic League was a mercantile league 

of medieval German towns. It was amorphous in 

character; its origin cannot be dated exactly. 

Originally a Hansa was a company of merchants 

trading with foreign lands. After the German push 

eastward and the settlement of German towns in 

82

the Slavic lands of the Baltic, the merchant guilds 

and town associations led (13th cent.) to leagues. 

Most notable was the company of German 

merchants with headquarters at Visby; pushing 

east, they founded a branch at Novgorod. In 

London, where German merchants had traded 

since the 11th cent., the privileges granted to 

Cologne merchants were extended to other 

Germans, and a Hansa of German merchants was 

formed (see Steelyard, Merchants of the). 

A major impetus to the league's development was 

the lack of a powerful German national government 

to provide security for trade. In order to obtain 

mutual security, exclusive trading rights, and, 

wherever possible, trade monopoly, the towns 

drew closer together. In 1241 Lübeck and 

Hamburg concluded a treaty of mutual protection. 

Other cities joined this association, and a strong 

league grew up led by Lübeck. Ports and inland 

towns from Holland to Poland entered the league, 

but the north German cities remained the principal 

members. 

Bergen from Mt Fløyen Lookout 

The league vigorously extended its operations, founding 

principal foreign branches at Bruges and Bergen. 

Although assemblies of the league met irregularly at 

Lübeck, many towns did not send representatives, and 

decisions were subject to review by the individual towns. 

The number of members fluctuated, probably from less 

than 100 to over 160. 

Cathedral - Bergen 

Warehouses - Bryggan 

The Hansa towns reached their summit in their victories 

over Waldemar IV of Denmark, gaining in the Treaty of 

Stralsund (1370) a virtual trade monopoly in Scandinavia. 

Their Baltic hegemony continued through numerous wars 

until their defeat by the Dutch in 1441. Despite its 

success, the league suffered from lack of organization. 

Fish market area - Bergen 

83

Some stops are very short; no more than 15 

minutes. 

http://www.hurtigruten.com/index.asp 

A safety briefing and an introduction to the officers 

at 21:00 finish the formal activities. It is getting dark 

so I head to my cabin write up the days notes. 

Bryggan - warehouse fronts 

By the 16th cent. internal dissension, curtailment of 

freedom by the German princes, growth of 

centralized foreign states and consequent loss of 

Hanseatic privileges, advances of Dutch and 

English shipping, and various changes in trade all 

operated against the league. The last diet was held 

in 1669, but the league was never formally 

dissolved. Lübeck, Hamburg, and Bremen are still 

known as Hanseatic cities. 

See P. Dollinger, The German Hansa (tr. 1970). 

Modern apartments - Bergen 

Pickup arrives on time and I am on board the MS 

Nordlys just after 18:00 with most of the other 

passengers. Buffet dinner is served at 18:30 and 

needless to say there are enormous amounts of 

food. 

We set sail sharp at 20:00. 

The Hurtigruten – Norwegian Costal Voyage will 

take us to the far north of Norway and back. We 

will make stops at 33 ports. Each port is visited 

twice, usually once in daylight and once at night. 

Departing Bergen 

Friday 6 May 2005 - Cruise Day 2 

Florø, Måløy, Torvick, Ålesund, Geiranger, Ålesund, Molde 

Day 19 

During the night the Nordlys called at Florø and 

Måløy. I heard one, not the other; my inside cabin 

is well insulated from outside noises and without a 

porthole I need the alarm to tell me its morning. 

We have come some distance North and it is cold 

on deck. Full windproof fleece jacket is needed for 

the first time. 

84 

First stop in the morning is at Torvik, the little port 

for the municipality of Hærøy. To the East is the 

town of Ulsteinvik, a centre for fishing, shipbuilding 

and light industry. We stop for 15 minutes to load 

some freight and passengers. The next stop at 

0845 is at Ålesund. 

Ålesund has a population of 39,000 and lives off 

the sea. The fishing fleet operates from Greenland 

to the Barents Sea, providing a basis for an 

extensive fishing industry. The town was burnt to 

the ground in 1904 and rebuilt in Art Nouveau 

style. Our stop of 45 minutes allows us to leave the 

ship and have a look round. We will have another 

chance to look around when we return tonight. 

The summer cruise includes a full day trip into the 

Geiranger Fjord to Geiringer and return.

Torvick 

Ålesund 

En Route to Geiranger 

Near Torvick 

Ålesund 

Geiranger Fjord 

Earlier the weather had been fine and overcast 

with patches of morning sun. Now as we enter the 

fjord it has become very grey, with rain showers 

about. 

There is an optional return to Alesund by bus that I 

have chosen not to do. The fjord is 100km long. 

Not as long as Sognefjorden. The fjord soon 

becomes rather narrow with high mountains rising 

to 2000m, steep mountainsides and rugged cliff on 

each side. Occasionally there are farms perched 

on the hillside. On one mountainside there are 

three farms so separated vertically that they each 

start planting there crops one week apart; the 

lowest first and the highest last. 

Strictly the Geiranger Fjord is just the last 16 km of 

the trip and the most spectacular. Here the cliffs 

press in and tower above the ship and waterfalls 

tumble down the mountain. As we get closer to 

Geiranger we pass three notable waterfalls, the 

Bridal Veil Falls, the Seven Sisters Falls and 

opposite the Friaren – Courtier Falls. The Eagles 

Road with its 11 zig zags up the mountain and out 

of the valley soon appears and this is the route the 

buses will take. 

85

Bridal Veil Falls - Geiranger Seven Sisters Falls - Geiranger Eagles Road over the mountain Modern Glass Hotel - Molde 

Geiranger Boat to take overland tour group ashore Geiranger Fjord 

86

destroying about two thirds of the city. The Germans 

were chasing the king, his government and gold 

reserves, which were fleeing, and thus stayed in Molde 

from 22 to April 29, making Molde the capital of Norway 

for a week. 

Freighter heading south 

Molde 

We return to Ålesund too late to 

spend any more time in the town as 

dinner is at 18:30 and the ship sails at 

18:45. 

The ship heads north and then east 

into the Romsdalen Fjord, heading for 

Molde. Molde faces south and on the 

other side of the fjord are the Alps of 

Romsdalen – 87 snow clad peaks. 

Molde was blitzed in 1940 and 2/3 

was destroyed. Most of the town, 

including the modern cathedral, was 

rebuilt in the 1950’s. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molde 

Returning to Ålesund 

Originating from the two major farms Reknes and Molde 

(later renamed Moldegård), a small port called Molde 

fjære was formed, based on trade with timber and 

herring. In 1614 the town gained formal trading rights, 

and in 1742 cityhood. One third of the city, mostly 

wooden buildings and rose gardens, was destroyed in a 

fire on 21 and January 22, 1916. A second fire struck 

when the Germans bombed the city in April 1940, 

Endless snow capped mountains 

Sports Stadium - Molde 

87

Saturday 7 May 2005 – Cruise Day 3 

Kristiansund, Trondheim, Rørvik 

Day 20 

Overnight we have called at 

Kristiansund. 

On deck before breakfast, there is 

morning sun and some blue sky. 

Perhaps today will be brighter. We 

pass two of the many small ships that 

ply these waters. 

http://www.stud.ntnu.no/~ragnvald/trondheim/historieeng.html 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trondheim 

Today’s optional tour visits the Nidaros Cathedral and the 

Ringve Music Museum. 

Trondheim 

Museum of Music History - Ringve 

Rose Window - Nidaros Cathedral 

- Trondheim 

Next stop is Trondheim at 08:15. We 

will be there till 12:00. 

88 

West Facade – Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim 

Nam, with wife and son

Nidaros, now Trondheim, was 

Norway’s first capital city is situated in 

Trondheimfjord at the mouth of the 

River Nid. Norway was unified in 872 

after the people of Trøndelag had 

defeated all Norway’s local chieftains 

in great sea battles. Nidaros remained 

the capital until Hakon Hakonsson 

moved to Bergen in 1217. During 

Narrow channel at Stokksund 

these years, Trondheim developed into Norway’s 

religious centre. It began with the death of Olav at the 

battle of Stiklestad in 1030. Pilgrims came from far and 

wide to be healed at St Olav’s shrine in Nidaros. 

The town became the seat of the archbishop in 1152 and 

remained Norway’s ecclesiastical centre until the 

Reformation in 1553. 

Turn to port under the cliffs 

In the 11 th C, a church was built over the shrine of St 

Olav. 

http://www.nidarosdomen.no/english/nidaroscathedral/ 

The cathedral was built between 1070 and 1300. The 

earliest parts, the transept are Romanesque; the 

remainder is Gothic. 

The church was ravaged by fire five times between 

128 and 1719. For some time after the last fire the 

church was largely in ruins, until, in 1867 

restoration work commenced. Unlike most of the 

churches I have visited in Scandinavia, this church 

has a full complement of stained glass windows 

including a magnificent, 9m-diameter rose window 

on the western end of the nave. 

The stained glass windows tell the stories of the 

Old and New Testaments, as they do in most 

cathedrals. However, in most cathedrals the 

stained glass windows were installed when the 

peasants could not read or write. Gabriel Kielland 

mainly created these windows between 1908 and 

1930. 

The West Front is a screen façade, featuring three 

rows of large statues. At the bottom we find the 

apostles, in the middle and number of saints and at 

the top prophets and kings from the Old 

Testament. 

The Museum of Music History at Ringve houses a 

collection of musical instruments from the 17 th C to 

the 20 th C. Victoria Bachke, a Russian artist who 

fled from the revolution in St.Petersburg and 

married in Trondheim, formed the collection. 

Spectators watch us pass under the bridge at 

Stokksund 

Rørvik 

http://www.ringve.com/english/start.html 

89

Most of the instruments are stringed instruments, 

particularly instruments similar to the harpsichord 

and piano. Various violins and organs are also in 

the collection. 

The Ringve estate was once the farm of the 

Wessel family. A family later bought it to 

established an orchard to provide fruit for their soft 

drink business. The business failed and the farm 

was sold. However, the orchard forms the basis of 

the botanical gardens that encircle the buildings. 

Munkholmen, first a monastery, later a fort and 

now a restaurant. 

http://www.trondheim.com/content.ap?thisId=7994 

950 

The port and the railway station are on islands 

reclaimed from the sea during the past 150 years. 

Nesting Gulls - Rørvik 

These islands are separated from the city by a 

canal flanked with old warehouses and berthed 

boats. 

Rørvik 

Marina - Rørvik 

Nam, who lived with us for a while when he was 

studying at Latrobe University, met me at Ringve 

with his wife and 14 months old son. We only had 

a few minute to talk. It was good to see him again. 

He is working and studying at the technical 

university in Trondheim. 

Munkholmen 

Trondheim, particularly around the old warehouse 

area, is very picturesque. The buildings are built 

over the water, three stories high, with gable roofs, 

and each painted a different colour. They are from 

the 17 th and 18 th C and were owned by the same 

wealthy merchants who had summer farms in the 

vicinity of Ringve. 

Ship departs Trondheim at 12:00 in bright 

sunshine, at last. To starboard is the island of 

Bridge at Rørvik 

Our next port of call will be Rørvik at 20:45. 

At around 16:20 we are at Stokksund. Here we 

enter a very narrow channel, turn to starboard and 

pass under what seems a bridge too low and then 

90

turn hard to port into another narrow channel under 

a towering cliff. There are sightseers on the bridge 

to see us pass. 

When it’s all over clear sea can be seen ahead. I 

don’t think it was necessary to go that way. The 

islands could be passed to the west in the open 

ocean. Still it is pretty exciting for the passengers. 

After dinner we dock at Rørvik. We are a few 

minutes late however departure has been delayed 

until 21:30 so there is time for quick walk around. It 

is quite a pretty town, neat and clean, few trees 

and reminiscent of far north towns in Alaska. Not 

bad at this time of year but wild, cold places in 

winter. 

Sunday 8 May 2005 - Cruise Day 4 

Brønnøysund, Sandnessjøen, Nesna, Ørnes, Bodø, Stamsund, Svolvær 

Day 21 

Overnight the ship has called at Brønnøysund, 

Sandnessjøen, and Nesna. 

We crossed the Arctic Circle (67 ° 33’) around 07:15. 

It is sunny, but there is a cold 15knot wind so 

thermal singlets are the go on deck. 

Boat for the Svartisen Glacier tour 

At 08:30, off the fishing village of Grønøy, the ship 

stops to allow those who are doing the excursion to 

the Svartisen Glacier to transfer to a small ship for 

the voyage into the fjord. 

Once they are away we head on to Ørnes. 

Grønøy 

Overnight the scenery has changed. Yesterday 

there were few high mountains coming down to the 

sea. We travelled past small coastal hills and low 

islands and skerries to the west, mostly free of 

snow. Today the mountains rise quickly from the 

sea and are snow capped once again. Little 

villages nestle in the valleys by the sea, against a 

backdrop of rugged mountains. 

We make a very short stop at Ørnes; drop off and 

pick up some passengers, a car and some fruit and 

vegetables. Along the way we have loaded and 

unloaded freight at most ports. 

Ørnes 

Ørnes 

91

Bodø is the administrative centre for Nordland County 

and has a population of 41,000 people. Local industries 

include fishing and an engine factory. It is the site of 

Norway’s northern defence headquarters and the seat of 

the bishop of northern Norway. 

Eider ducks on the edge of the whirlpool 

Sculpture - Bodø 

As we head towards Bodø a seagull 

soars in our slipstream, effortlessly 

keeping up with us. We are travelling 

at 14 knots. 

Saltstrauman 

Soaring Seagull 

Zodiac excursion to Saltstrauman 

Spring flowers 

The city is not old; it was established in 1816, and until 

1836 had only 200 people. The arrival of herring off the 

coast in 1860 resulted in rapid growth of the town. By the 

time the herring left the town was well established. 

The town was blitzed in May 1940 and 60% was 

destroyed. One area was not, said to be because that 

was where the brewery was. 

92

and Skjersfadfjorden every 6 hours at up to 40kph. 

A bridge, 41m above Saltstrauman, now spans the strait, 

allowing traffic to safely pass from one side to the other. 

There is an old saying that the stream is at its strongest 

of the year on good Friday . 

The rushing water causes eddies and whirlpools and in 

this maelstrom eider ducks go about the business of 

gathering food deep below the water. 

Saltstraumen – The Worlds Strongest 

Maelstrom. 

http://home.c2i.net/rune.dahl/saltstraumen2.html 

The Tidal Current 

Saltstraumen is created when the tide try to fill the 

Skjerstad fjord. The height difference of the sea surface 

can be as much as 1 meter or 3 feet between the inside 

and the outside of the narrow sound. 

Måloy/Skarholmen lighthouse 

Cathedral - Bodø 

It is a modern town as most of the 

town dates from after WWII. 

Bodø Cathedral was built in 1956. Its 

modern design features a spire that is 

separate from the church. It was not 

popular at the time. 

The aviation museum is housed in a 

building designed to represent a 

propeller. One blade houses the air 

force display and the other a civil 

aviation display. 

To the south of Bodø is the 

Saltstrauman tidal flow where 372 

million m 3 of water flows through the 

narrow straight between Saltfjorden 

In the attempt to level out the two sides, the water 

increases its speed and turns into something that looks 

like a very strong river. However this "river" has a twist, it 

runs both ways. 

Within a time frame of 6 hours a massive 372 million 

cubic meter of seawater passes through a 150 meter 

wide and 31meter deep passage. 

The speed of the stream is estimated to be up to 22 knots 

or 40 km per hour, and it is about 3 km long. 

Huge whirlpools are formed , sometimes they can be as 

much as 10 to 15 meters in diameter. 

The current is strongest around new and full moon. In 

addition to the moon phase the weather is also an 

important factor to strength of the stream because storms 

that comes in from the sea increases the tide level. The 

sun will also influence the current to some extent. 

Approaching Stamsund 

This corresponds good considering that the combined 

gravity pull from the moon and the sun its maximum. 

93

Every time the current turns there is a 

"time window" when larger ships can 

pass through the sound. They can 

obtain information about these times 

from a local signal station on the VHF. 

At these times the current is almost 

calm. 

On the last page of the two local 

newspapers "Avisa Nordland" you will 

find a daily column with the times 

when Saltstraumen is at its strongest. 

Adjust when you want to see the 

maelstrom in accordance with this to 

avoid disappointments. 

Bridge at Saltstrauman 

Stamsund 

The tourist information centre can also tell you what time 

it is best to view Saltstraumen. 

Anyone being in a boat or down by the sea must show 

caution because Saltstraumen is dangerous, there are 

underwater currents even when the surface is calm. 

Fishing 

Saltstraumen is one of the best places for sport fishing in 

Norway and the clean oxygen rich water hosts a verity of 

species both fish, plants and other sea creatures. 

The coal-fish is most common, but you can also catch 

salmon, trout , herring , flounder , halibut , catfish , 

haddock , Norway haddock and other. 

The fjord inside Saltstraumen is more than 500 meter 

deep and here you can find deep-sea fish like red fish as 

well. 

During special wind and weather conditions, some of 

these deep sea fish swims closer to the surface where 

they taken by the current and lifted all the way up . Due 

to sudden drop of pressure the fish are instantaneous 

killed and floats around for anyone to pick. 

Svolvær 

The largest black pollack ever to be fished was taken by 

a sport fisher in Saltstraumen, and from time to time 

black pollack of 20 kg or more are taken. 

Almost everybody who tries to fish in Saltstraumen will 

catch something. The most common tackle to be used is 

"stingsild". 

The "Stingsild" looks like a small herring with a hook at 

one end. 

Still there are a lot of people who prefer the much 

cheaper "mark". 

The "mark" is a hook inside a small colored rubber tube, 

that suppose to imitate a maggot. 

What ever you choose you are almost certain to catch 

some fish. 

Wild Life 

94

The wildlife around Saltstraumen is 

quite versatile. Here you can find 

moose , fox , otter and ferret . During 

the summer moths they tend to keep 

away from people, but they are often 

seen during the winter. 

Motorists must be aware that the 

moose often walks along roads during 

winter nights and that they are very 

hard to see before it is to late. If there 

is a collision it can be just as bad for 

the driver as for the moose. 

There are always a lot of birds in and 

around the current. Here are large 

colonies of seagull, eider ducks , 

ducks and lots more. As Saltstraumen 

is a blessing to people and fish, it is 

also a excellent food resource for 

birds. 

And not to forget the "king" him self, 

the fish eagle. In the district around 

Bodø you will find the greatest 

concentration in Europe , so these 

majestic birds can be seen almost 

every day. 

History 

Saltstraumen as we know it today 

have only been for 2 to 3 thousand 

years. Before that the landscape was 

pressed down by huge glaciers. 

When the ice melted the land was 

pushed up narrowing the sound and 

gradually creating the current we 

know today. 

During the age of the Vikings the sea stood only 2 to 3 

meter higher than now. 

Traces of human activity dates back 10 thousand years 

when the sea was about 80 meters higher up . The area 

provided them with every thing they could wish for , food 

and shelter. 

There is an 8 thousand year old picture of a moose 

carved into a rock , witnessing a rich wild life. 

Fish drying racks - Svolvær 

The oldest music instrument ever to be found in Norway 

was discovered in the area. It is estimated that the 

"brummer" as it is called is between 4 to 5 thousand 

years old. 

When attached to a string and swung in the air it makes a 

humming sound. 

In the local museum it is possible to see objects from the 

Iron Age, but most of the items on the exhibition are from 

the last and this century. 

In Sundstraumen , an other and much smaller maelstrom 

that together with Saltstraumen fills the Skjerstad fjord , 

you can find a cut in the rocks that look like it has been 

made by an ax . According to legend this cut was made 

by Olav Trygvason , the Viking chief that christened 

Norway. At that time the district was ruled by "Raudin Hin 

Rame" , a notorious Viking chief and sorcerer . When 

Olav Trygvason came Raudin started a storm that blew 

Tryvason's fleet out to sea again. 

Fishing boat - Svolvær 

Whenever Trygvason tried to sail through Saltstraumen 

the wind and the current were against him. He finally 

managed to get to Raudin Hin Rame by cutting his way 

through solid rock and thereby creating Sundstraumen. 

Even after being defeated Raudin refused to let him self 

be christened, so Trygvason tortured him in order to 

convict him. 

Though Trygvason forced an adder down his throat 

Raudin would not change his belief and therefore died 

when the adder made his way out. 

If you visit the museum in Saltstraumen so take a look at 

the boat they have on display. 

This type of boat is genuine to Saltstraumen and was 

designed to handle well when they were rowing in the 

95

current. This type of boat was extreme 

easy to row in this kind of waters. 

At about 16:10 we are abeam the 

Måloy/Skarholmen lighthouse on the 

island of Landegodeøy. At this point 

the Lofotveggen – the Lofoten Wall is 

to the west ahead of us. The snow 

covered peaks of this chain of islands 

stretches for 100km. 

Also at this point we enter the open 

ocean for a two hours crossing to 

Stamsund. The light wind is behind us 

and the sea is calm. It is fine and 

overcast here, but, out to the west 

there is a large rain squall. 

Stamsund is a tiny little port with very 

large dockside warehouses painted 

blue and white. It is usually a short stop but we have to 

unload more cars than usual and are late leaving. The 

town was built in the early 20 th C and has a population of 

1300 inhabitants, one of Lofoten’s largest fish products 

plants, a cod liver oil refinery and its own shipping 

company with seven trawlers 

Consequently we arrive at the larger town of Svolvær 

about half an hour late. Fish processing and hotels are 

big in Svolvær. We could smell the fish on the drying 

racks when we were a couple of kilometres from the 

town. The Svolvær fishing fleet catches 25-50 million kg 

of each year, the largest in the world. 

It is 23:40 and we are north bound through Raftsundet, a 

very narrow passage with mountains rising up on both 

sides. It is light enough to take photos. 

There are three stops between now and breakfast, with a 

bit of luck I’ll sleep through them. 

Entrance to Raftsundet 

Monday 9 May 2005 - Cruise Day 5 

Stokmarknes, Sortland, Risøyhamn, Harstad, Finnsnes, Tromsø, Skjervøy 

Day 22 

A good night; woke to the sound of us 

pulling into Harstad at 06:30. 

The sun is shining brightly and the 

weather looks promising. Still very 

cold in the wind. 

Harstad is a town of 23,000 

inhabitants and is the central meeting 

point for the islands that cluster 

around Hinnøya, Norway’s largest 

island. 

http://www.eurotravelling.net/norway/h 

arstad/harstad_history.htm 

96 

Harstad 

Harstad School

here that Bishop Jon Sigurd probably carried out the first 

baptisms of children in northern Norway in 999. 

http://www.tdm.no/default.asp?cmd=400&Lang=E 

Trondenes 

Arctic Circle Ceremony 

Tromsdalen Church - Tromø 

The town flourished during the 

‘herring years’ at the end of the 19 th C. 

When the herring stocks were 

exhausted, industries shipbuilding and 

maintenance of the fishing fleet were 

developed. There is also significant 

agriculture, particularly dairy and meat 

products to supplement the fish 

products industries. In recent years 

the town has become the centre for oil 

exploration in the region. 

Three kilometers from the centre of 

the town is Trondenes Church, a 

small stone church beside the sea. 

King Eystein erected the area’s first 

church here in the 12th C. It was 

probably a wooden building. It was 

Harstad 

Trondenes Church 

http://www.destinationviking.com/destination/sagaland/tro 

ndenes2.htm 

Trondenes was an important centre of power in the 

Viking and medieval ages. According to the sagas, the 

renowned chieftain`s family on the island of Bjarkøy, and 

of the peninsula of Trondenes on Hinnøy Island, 

sacrificed to Norse gods and held great feasts here. They 

ruled over an entire kingdom in the districts of Southern 

Troms and Vesterålen. 

Trondenes played an important part during the 

christianization of Northern Norway. The local chieftains 

had to be pacified before the kings could unify the 

country, and bloody battles were fought. The chieftain of 

Bjarkøy, Tore Hund, manage to kill king Olav Haraldsson 

(St. Olaf) at the battle of Stiklestad in 1030, as a revenge 

for the death of his nephew Asbjørn Selsbane at 

Trondenes. However, in the end the pagan chieftains at 

Trondenes and Bjarkøy lost the struggle against the king 

and Christianity. 

97

The largest stone church north of 

Trondheim was erected at Trondenes 

after the chieftains had lost the battle 

against the unification of Norway. 

Trondenes Church remains the most 

forceful symbol of the Christianization 

of Northern Norway. 

the Gisund Bridge links the mainland to the island of 

Senja. 

Tromsø is the capital of arctic Norway and gateway to the 

Arctic Ocean. The first church was built in 1252 and the 

Catholic Cathedral is the only wooden cathedral in 

Europe. For 200 years the town has flourished as natural 

centre of trade and commerce for the surrounding region. 

Tromsø has a university with a large hospital. 

http://destinasjontromso.no/english/useful_info.html 

Between Finnsnes and Tromsø 

Tromsdalen Church 

At 10:30 the ‘Artic Circle Ceremony’ 

with King Neptune was held on the 

sun deck. 

Soon after we call at the port of 

Finnsnes. It is a small port that is an 

important trading centre with some 

small manufacturing industries allied 

to the fishing industry. It is here that 

Finnsnes 

Famous Polar expeditions lead by Nansen and 

Amundsen left from here. There is a statue to Amundsen 

by the harbour commemorating his death searching for 

the explorer Umberto Nobile. 

Tromsø was has been relatively untouched by war. A 

skirmish in the Napoleonic wars was won by the British. 

During WWII the most significant events were the short 

period that Tromsø was the capital after the South fell to 

the Germans and the sinking of the German battle ship 

Tirpitz nearby. 

Tromsø 

Tromsø – History 

http://www.world66.com/europe/norway/tromso/history 

Archaeological finds show that settlers inhabitated the 

area as far back as 7,000 years BC, indicating that they 

followed the receding glaciers North as the last Ice Age 

98

came to a close. Inscriptions on 

exposed granite walls from the era 

show scenes of fishing and reindeer 

hunting. (Many of these primitive 

drawings can be seen today near 

Straumshella at Kvaløya--see "Day 

Trips" section.) 

great neighbour to the east, attracted merchants from 

Germany, France, Britain and Russia. Tromsø finally 

gained full trading privileges and a town charter in 1794. 

The international influences created a lively local culture; 

a German visitor in the 19th century was so surprised to 

find such a well developed social and fashion scene that 

he proclaimed it "the Paris of the North," a nickname that 

stuck and that you will hear often to this day. 

Tromsø was occupied during the Nazi Germany 

occupation in World War II, but the city was spared the 

scorched earth tactics that the retreating Germans 

applied in the province of Finnmark to the north. In 1944, 

the British Airforce was finally able to catch up with and 

sink the gigantic German battleship "Tirpitz," which the 

Nazis had hidden in the fjords and sounds around 

Tromsø. 

The 1960s saw some notable improvements in 

communications for the city; Tromsøbrua, the bridge that 

connects the island to the mainland, was completed in 

1961, and the Langnes airport opened in 1964, marking 

the end of the seaplane era for the city. 

Catholic Cathedral - Tromsø 

The early seeds of township can be 

found in the establishment of 

Tromsø's first church in 1252. In 

addition to abundant fishing and 

subsistence farming, the town's 

geographical location made it a 

natural center of trade. Extensive 

commerce from hunting and whaling 

expeditions to the arctic, as well as 

the so-called Pomor-trade with the 

Tromsdalen Church 

As the town grew, it acquired a Shipyard (1848), the 

Tromsø Museum (1872), and the World's Northernmost 

Beer Brewery (1877), Mack. In the 1890s, the town truly 

cemented its position as Porten til Ishavet -- the gateway 

to the Arctic. Many Arctic Expeditions started here, and 

famous explorers Fritjof Nansen, Roald Amundsen and 

Umberto Nobile all drew on the expertise found in the 

city. 

The city limits originally covered only part of the island of 

Tromsø. After a number of consolidations of the nation's 

many municipalities in the 1960s, the city ultimately grew 

to cover and area over 2 500 square km, making it the 

largest city in the world. 

Seals at Polaria - Tromsø 

Further modernizations took place through the 1970s. A 

catastrophic fire in 1969 had consumed many wood 

buildings, and much of the city centre had to be rebuilt. 

The establishment of the University of Tromsø in 1972, 

the world's northernmost university, helped propel city 

growth further. 

Today, Tromsø is an important regional administrative 

seat, a center for education, and the home of one of the 

nation's largest hospitals. Alumni of the University have 

99

gone on to establish high-tech 

industries in such varied fields as 

biotechnology and aeronautics. 

However, traditional trades such as 

fishing, fish-processing, and more 

recently fish-farming, are still 

important to the local economy. 

dark period and the Northern Lights. It has Europes 

largest glass mosaic. 

Polaria has exhibits of wild life and the impact on man’s 

pollution on the Arctic environment. A multi-screen film of 

the Arctic around Spitzbergen was spectacular. However 

I come away from these films having enjoyed the views 

and very little the wiser. 

http://www.polaria.no/en/ 

Polaria 

A seal pool with 3 male and 3 immature female bearded 

seals is a feature. We were there, of course, to see them 

being trained to respond to human commands. Some of 

these are useful as they make it easier to care for them. 

Others were claimed to be to keep the seals stimulated, 

not a circus performance. Seemed to me to be no 

different to any seal show I’ve seen. 

Memorial to 52 fishermen lost in 

one storm 

The population had grown to 

approximately 62,000 by the end of 

2003. 

Rusty Russian Trawlers - Tromsø 

The city tour included visits to Polaria, a centre 

associated with the Polar research centre and the 

Tromsdalen Church, an Arctic Cathedral symbolizing the 

Tromsdalen Church (The Artic Cathedral) is a towering A 

frame construction. Very bright inside due to the way 

large window areas have been included at each end and 

between overlapping slabs of the roof. Built about 1962, 

the church is under major renovation. 

http://www.destinasjontromso.no/english/useful_info_artic 

les_the_arctic_cathedr.html 

Across the fast flowing Tromsøysundet are a series of 

conical mounds. We are told they are to protect a school 

against winter avalanches. 

100

Tuesday 10 May 2005 - Cruise Day 6 

Øksfjord, Hammerfest, Havøysund, Honningsvåg, Kjøllefjord, Mehamn, Berlevåg 

Day 23 

Øksfjord and Hammerfest past me by during the 

night. When I woke we were about to depart from 

Hammerfest. No problem we will return to 

Hammerfest in a few days. 

A brief stop at Havøysund to unload and load 

cargo. Lunch is early today as there are two 

excursions; one to Nordkapp and the other to the 

bird colonies at Gjesvær. 

We arrive at Honningsvåg shortly before midday. 

There is still some light rain but it seems a bit 

better for the excursions. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honningsv%C3%A5g 

http://www.visitnorway.com/templates/NTRarticle.a 

spx?id=41718 

http://www.northcape.no/ 

A wet, cold morning 

Fishing boats at Havøysund 

Yesterday was a beautiful, sunny day. We are 

approaching 71°N. Today is overcast, the clouds 

shroud the tops of the mountains, it is raining 

lightly, temperature on deck is 2C and overnight 

there was light snow. ‘A great day for visiting a bird 

colony’. 

Havøysund 

Havøysund 

Honningsvåg 

Honningsvåg is a centre for fishing and the fleet 

catches about 40m kg of fish each year. The 

Norwegian State College of Fisheries is located 

here. It is only 2112 km to the North Pole from 

here. 

I am going to see the birds at Gjesværstappan. 

First we must cross the central plateau of the 

101

Magerøy to the little fishing village of Gjesvær. The 

road was built in 1999 and winds up the mountain 

to snowfields broken only with outcrops of rock; the 

trip takes about 40 minutes. There are no natural 

trees; the tree line is 140km to the South. 

http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/sites/?action=SitH 

TMDetails.asp&sid=3148&m=0 

fishing village, with very narrow streets, as there 

were no cars until the road was built. We transfer 

to 50ft boat and every one is supplied with 

waterproof, windproof winter suits. In the cabin it 

was cozy; on deck it was freezing. 

gulls, cormorants, gannets and herring gulls are 

roosting on the rock faces. Occasionally a seal 

pops up from the deep. 

Great Black Backed Gull 

White Tailed Eagle 

Honningsvåg 

Kittiwake at Gjesværstappan 

Gjesvær is on the western side of the island and 

cold westerly wind is building up. It is pretty, small 

Razorbill 

The bird islands are a short distance from the 

harbour and we are soon amongst flocks of 

kittiwakes, puffins, razorbills and guillemots. 

Soaring overhead are white tailed eagles. These 

have a wingspan of 2.5m. Great black backed 

Roosting Gannets 

102

The ship does not round Nordkapp, instead traveling 

through the Magerøy Sundut, thus avoiding the open sea 

to the north on its approach to Honningsvåg. 

Gannet 

Gjesvær 

Troll’s Head 

The light rain continues and the wind 

continues to strengthen bringing 

higher seas on the western side of the 

island where the birds are. Undeterred 

the skipper takes the boat right in 

under the cliffs for a better look at the 

birds. 

A great excursion and not to be 

missed. 

We drove back over the plateau in 

heavier rain and strong winds. The 

bus driver thought the rain might have 

ruined the view at Nordkapp. I will do 

that excursion in a few days and 

hopefully the weather will have 

improved. 

Bird watching boat - Gjesvær 

Finnjerka 

As we make our way to Kjøllefjord we are in open sea 

and a fair swell has built up. The ship is moving about 

quite a bit. The westerly is now about 25knots from 

directly astern. If this wind keeps up we could be in for a 

rough night as we will not be protected by islands as we 

have been for most of the trip so far. 

103

Mehamn is another small fishing village where we call 

briefly. It to has a large fish processing plant. 

We have another stop this evening at Berlevåg but I don’t 

expect to be up for it. We have been told tonight is the 

last night the sun sets in these latitudes. If the weather 

clears we should see it before we head south. 

Honningsvåg 

Kjøllefjord 

As we approach Kjøllefjord we pass a spectacular cliff 

formation known as Finnjerka (Finnkerka). Kjøllefjord is a 

fishing village and we stop only to load and unload 

passengers and freight and we are soon on our way 

again. 

At about 19:15 we round Kinnarodden, mainland 

Europe’s most northerly point, 71º8’0” N. 

Mehamn 

Wednesday 11 May 2005 - Cruise Day 7 

Båtsfjord, Vardø, Vadsø, Kirkenes, Vardø, Båtsfjord, Berlevåg 

Day 24 

Called at Båtsfjord and Vardø during 

the night. 

104 

The wind has abated and it is fine and 

overcast. Our first call is in the 

morning at 07:30 is Vadsø. Vadsø has 

a population of 6100 and is the local 

administrative centre. An influx of 

Finns fleeing famine in Finland in 19 th 

C means there are many Finnishspeaking 

people in the area. Finnish is taught in schools. 

The unusual steeple of the church with its linked twin 

towers can be seen from the ship as we enter the port. 

http://www.varanger.com/region.php?lang=eng&rid=2 

http://www.visitnorway.com/templates/NTRarticle.aspx?id 

=41790 

Fishing and public administration are the main industries. 

In February and March, when shoals of capelin come in 

from the ocean, the fish oil factories are very busy. Cod 

follow the capelin from March to June. The town centre is 

hidden from the port. However it was completely rebuild 

after WWII. 

We have traveled some distance south and at Kirkenes 

we are south of the Arctic tree line and the area is very 

fertile compared with the rest of the Finnmark coast. The

town is very close to the border 

between Norway and Russia and 

Finland is only 40 minutes away by 

bus. Kirkenes is well into the 

Bøkfjorden and water temperatures 

are not influenced by the Gulf Stream 

and in winter the harbour often 

freezes and ice breakers are required 

to keep the port open. There is still 

some ice floating on the fjord. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirkenes 

1996. Export began in 1910, providing some 1,800 

people with work. 

http://www.scantours.com/kirkenes_and_surroundings.ht 

m 

Vadsø 

Mine workings - Kirkenes 

Church - Kirkenes 

Kirkenes was one of the most bombed 

towns during WWII (reportedly, 

second after Malta), with 320 air 

attacks and more than one thousand 

alarms. 13 houses were left in 

October 1944. 

Fish Oil Factory - Vadsø 

The town is dominated by the now closed AS 

Sydvaranger mine workings. The town was built to 

support the mine but now the most important industries 

are trade with Russia, ship repairs, tourism and the 

service sector. AS Sydvaranger mined iron ore up until 

Ice on the fjord - Kirkenes 

105

Before the construction of the walls protecting the 

harbour the Ocean Express had to ferry cargo and 

people ashore by boat. The entrance is very narrow and 

when we left a fishing boat waited outside until we were 

through. 

Entrance to Vardø 

Church - Kirkenes 

We are now retracing our path back to 

Bergen and on the way we will call at 

ports visited at night, during the day. 

When we left Kirkenes at 12:45 the 

weather was reasonable, but now at 

15:30 there is a wall of grey to the 

south, behind us, and increasing 

wind. It is 3C on deck. 

We called at Vardø early this morning. 

Now, on our return trip we have a 

chance to take a look at the town. It is 

not a tourist resort. It is a working 

fishing village somewhat 

overshadowed by the presence of 

NATO Cold War radomes. 

Winter Snow - Kirkenes 

Main Street - Kirkenes 

NATO Radomes - Vardø 

Fortresses have been built at Vardø since the 14 th C as 

protection against Russian and Karelian raiders. The 

present Vardøhus Fort was built between 1734 and 1738 

and has stood fast against invaders from the east. It is 

the reason that Varanger is still Norwegian territory. It has 

never actually been touched by war, and apart from some 

anti-aircraft fire in 1940, has only fired its guns to 

welcome the return of the sun in January. It is an 

106

octagonal fort with 4 towers, 10 cannons and a 

small museum. 

Rescue launch - Vardø 

We are told that for 30kr we can visit the fort and 

the guide will be on the wharf to lead us. Like the 

children of Hameln following the Pied Piper, a 

crowd from the ship follows him through the town. 

When we get there we are told there is no guiding 

today as the ship was in late. It was, but we are 

going to leave 15 minutes later. It didn’t matter. 

The leaflet and the signs were enough information. 

Interesting as this is the most northern fort in the 

world. 2/3 of the town was destroyed in WWII, 

between 1942 and 1944. 

Vardøhus Fort 

‘Children of Hameln’ 

Vardøhus Fort 

We pass close to the Hanøya/Vardø lighthouse, 

Norway’s most easterly point at 31°10’10” E, 

further east than St Petersburg and Istanbul. 

We stop briefly at Båtsfjord and Berlevåg during 

the night. 

Thursday 12 May 2005 - Cruise Day 8 

Mehamn, Kjøllefjord, Honningvåg, Havøysund, Hammerfest, Øksfjord, Skjervøy, Tromsø 

Day 25 

Brief stops at Mehamn and Kjøllefjord before we 

reach Honningvåg at 0545. 

Today I am booked for the alternate visit to 

Nordkapp as the trip to the bird islands clashed 

with the trip to Nordkapp two days ago. Departure 

from Honningvåg is at 06:15 after a cup of coffee 

and a biscuit. Breakfast will be available at 

Nordkapp. 

107

Nordkapp is almost the most northerly point of 

Europe at 71°10’21” N, 2080 km from the North 

Pole. Europe’s northernmost point is the nearby 

small headland Kniverskjellodden at 71°11’08” N. 

This point can be reached by walking track. The 

walk takes about 6 hours. 

journey to the edge of the world before the road 

was built. 

We are lucky. Those who visited two days ago 

were unable to see the views for mist and rain. 

Today it is clear, overcast with occasional 

sunshine. We can see all round and below to the 

fleet of tiny fishing boats fishing for cod. 

Frozen Lake – Nordkapp Plateau 

Kniverskjellodden – the most northerly point 

The North Cape was given its name by Richard 

Chancellor, in 1153, who was searching north of 

Siberia for Northeast Passage to India. 

Children of the Earth Monument 

View east of Nordkapp 

The road across the Nordkapp Plateau, which rises 

307m above sea level, was completed in 1956. 

Prior to then visitors climbed the 1008 steps from 

Hornvika. A number of prominent people made the 

Visitor Centre - Nordkapp 

Today there is a spectacular visitors centre with 

the obligatory multi screen video. 

Fishing boats on the sea below Nordkapp 

Children of the Earth Monument symbolizes the 

ability of children to work together. The medallions 

were modeled by children and then cast in full size 

108

to be placed together with the 

sculpture of mother and child by Eva 

Rybakken. The Children of the Earth 

Foundation awards a substantial prize 

each year to a project or organization 

that is working to advance the living 

conditions of children. 

http://www.barnavjorden.org/eng/welc 

ome.htm 

mainland and from sea level to plateau. 

Each year four Sami families bring their 5000 reindeer 

from about 200km south to Magerøy for the summer. 

Some have arrived and we stop to take some photos and 

visit a souvenir shop. No comment. 

http://www.itv.se/boreale/samieng.htm 

The island of Magerøy is above the Arctic Tree line, 

however soon after we emerge from the tunnel 

connecting Honningvåg to the mainland we encounter 

small trees, as yet without leaves. 

Beneath the bridge and under the water is a tidal power 

station that harnesses the energy of the fast tidal flow to 

produce electricity. 

Sami man, reindeer and tourist 

We will not be returning to the ship at 

Honningvåg but will travel by land to 

Hammerfest to catch up with the ship. 

This gives us a chance to learn a little 

about the Sami people, reindeer 

herding and the changes in vegetation 

that occur as we move from island to 

Reindeer 

As we make our way along the western side of 

Porsangerfjorden towards Olderfjord we see many more 

reindeer grazing amongst the snowdrifts. Olderfjord is a 

camping resort for Russians. There are many caravans 

set up as permanent campsites. 

From Olderfjord we climb over the pleateau to Skadai 

(Sami place of many rivers) and on to Kvalsund. At 

Kvalsund we cross, via a suspension bridge to the island 

of Kvaløya and Hammerfest. 

Church - Hammerfest 

As we travel along the west coast of Kvaløya the island 

that is being developed as natural gas terminal can be 

seen in the Sørøysundet. The gas is coming from a field 

in the North Atlantic. 

We arrive in Hammerfest soon after the ship and so have 

time to have a look around the town before we sail. 

We will have brief stops for the remainder of the day until 

we reach Tromsø at 23:45. In a couple of days the 

midnight sun will appear. If it is clear tonight it will almost 

appear. It is due in Hammerfest tomorrow night. 

109

At 12:45 the temperature outside was 

13C, now at 15:30 it is 8C and rain is 

coming in from the west. 

There is a reasonable sunset at 23:30 

so I have tried to get photos at 10- 

minute intervals. Gave up at 00:20 

when cloud developed. Also the 

mountains increasingly obscured the 

sunset as we entered Tromsø 

harbour. 

Camping ground at Oldenfjord 

Setting Sun at 2330 - Tromsø 

Friday 13 May 2005 - Cruise Day 9 

Finnsnes, Harstad, Risøyhamn, Sortland, Stokmarknes, Svolvær, Stamsund 

Day 26 

110 

Tromsø sky – 00:21 

Finnsnes was an earlier morning stop. At 0800 we 

arrive at Harstad where the first of the days bus 

trips begins. We have been here before and the 

stop is short so I do not try to go into the town. 

Coastguard at Risøyhamn 

Our next stop is Risøyhamn and then Sortland in 

the region known as Vesterålen. This requires us 

to sail west to Risøyhamn and then south through 

the dredged channel of Risøyrenna to Sortland. 

Risøyhamn 

Prior to the dredging of the channel in 1922 it was 

necessary to sail south from Harstad through the 

Tjeldsundet straight and the Coastal Express 

(Hurtigruten) was unable to service these towns.

a small part of the business. A ‘Finnmarken’ from 

an earlier era is now part of the museum 

Sortland – Coastguard ships 

Stokmarknes 

Entering Raftsundet 

Church at Sortland 

Sortland is the headquarters for the Norwegian 

Coastguard and the main town for Vesterålen. 

There is a pretty church on the hillside. 

We called at Stokmarnes on our way North in the 

early hours of the morning. We arrive at 14:30 and 

have an hour to look around. It was in this town 

that the Coastal Express was born when Richard 

Wick established Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab 

in 1851. 

The Finnmarken and Hurtigrutens Hus Museum 

There is an excellent small museum in Hurtigruten 

Hus displaying the history of the Coastal Express 

in peace and war. There are models of many of the 

ships. More than one company operates the ships 

to provide the daily service. The evolution of the 

ships is described. While the company emphasizes 

that the ships are working ships, not cruise ships; 

there is no doubt the major business is carrying 

tourists. Inter island passengers and freight is only 

Swirling currents in Raftsundet 

The ship will retrace its route through the narrow 

Raftsundet. We passed this way late at night on 

our trip North. The current in this sound can run at 

up to 7 knots and it is clear when we enter it that a 

strong current is running against us. 

111

Apart from the spectacular snow clad mountains 

on each side of us, the highlight of this passage is 

Trollfjorden. This 2km long fjord has an entrance 

100m wide and is where Norwegian Trolls live. In 

the summer season the ships go into the fjord. At 

this time if year we just poke our bow into the 

entrance as there is a risk of avalanches if we go 

into the Fjord. 

http://gonorway.no/index3.html (search for 

Raftsundet) 

fishermen in boats with sails and five oarsmen. 

Huge quantities of fish had swum into the fjord and 

were being trapped in a seine formed by the nets 

of the larger boats. Outside were 5000 fishermen 

in 1300 traditional Nordlandboats. It came to open 

fights, including knives, boathooks and axes. The 

blokade was broken, but this marked the start of a 

new time in the fisheries. Capitalism, big boats and 

fishing nets had come to stay. 

http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.as 

px?ID=157732 

In Raftsundet 

We continue on our way to Svolvær. 

In Raftsundet 

Trollfjorden 

An historic battle took place here, known as the 

Battle of Trollfjord, in 1890. The battle was 

between fishermen in 4 steam driven boats and 

Svolvær 

Saturday 14 May 2005 - Cruise Day 10 

Bodø,. Ørnes, Nesna, Sandnessjøen, Brønnøysund, Rørvik 

Day 27 

We called briefly at Bodø and Ørnes before 

breakfast. During the morning we have another 

brief stop at Nesna and then at 12:30 we have an 

hour at Sandnessjøen. 

112 

It is a miserable day outside, rain and strong 

winds. A good day to sort some the photos. 

At about 09:30 we cross the Arctic Circle 

southbound. There is a marker on a small island to 

starboard. 

We have been battling strong southerly winds all 

morning and we are 20 minutes late arriving at 

Nesna where the wind is on the beam blowing the 

ship towards the wharf. The twin bow and stern

thrusters are up to the job and we berth without 

incident. Wind gusts are around 35 knots. 

The town is shrouded in rain, thus only a couple of 

photos for the record. 

walk. Apart from the usual fishing and support 

industries the town also hosts the Brønnøysund 

Registers for companies, personal chattels, 

accounts and fees for the whole of Norway. It has 

an air of prosperity about it, clean streets, new 

housing and large shops. As we sail south we pass 

Torghatten, the mountain with a hole through it. 

The whole, carved by ancient seas, is 112m above 

sea level, 160m long, 25-30m high and 12-15m 

wide. It is clearly visible from the ship. 

Last call for the day is Rørvik. We had been here 

on day 3 but as we had docked at a different place 

I didn’t recognise the town at first. 

Rørvik is the capital of large island group called 

Vikna, consisting of 6000 islets, skerries and 

islands. The area has many fishing, fish farming 

and farming communities. According to legends, 

sea serpents live here. The last sighting, in 1926, 

was by two boys. The serpent was 200m long and 

had 60 humps. Unfortunately they did not have a 

camera. 

Nesna through the rain 

At Sandnessjøen it is still raining; again a couple of 

shots for the record. 

New Apartments - Brønnøysund 

Across the Sound - Brønnøysund 

Sandnessjøen 

Our stop at Brønnøysund was to be short, however 

we arrive early and there is enough time for a short 

Waterfront - Brønnøysund 

Traditional Boat - Brønnøysund 

113

Frankie, Justin and Ruth - Rørvik 

Main Square - Rørvik 

Hole in Torghatten 

Sunday 15 May 2005 - Cruise Day 11 

Trondheim, Kristiansund, Molde 

Day 28 

City and Port - Trondheim Rådhus - Trondheim Norwegian Army Command - Trondheim 

114

Vår Frue Kirke - Trondheim 

We arrive early at Trondheim, at 

06:00. 

It is, again, cold and wet. Fortunately I 

have booked to do the city tour. This 

tour also visits the Nidaros Cathedral 

as well as the city sights. I used the 

time whilst the others were doing the 

guided tour of the Cathedral to take 

some more photos in and around the 

cathedral. 

30,000 students boost Trondheim’s 

population when semester starts at 

the colleges and university. The 

resident population is about 140,000. 

St Olav’s Shrine – Dom Kirke - Trondheim 

The tour takes us to a vantage point overlooking the city. 

From there the winding Nid river is clearly visit, and in the 

distance, the Kristiansten Castle. 

Olav Trygvason founded Trondheim in 995. He is 

remembered in statues and the name of the main street. 

Archbishop’s Palace – Dom Kirke - Trondheim 

Dom Kirke - Trondheim 

As we leave Trondheim there is lifeboat drill for some of 

the crew. The boat was lowered to the water, the engine 

started, and then the boat was recovered. This exercise 

resulted in our arriving late at Kristiansund and thus 

having a very short stay. We were unable to go ashore 

Canal - Trondheim 

115

Rose Window – Dom Kirke - 

Trondheim 

Stained Glass Windows – Dom 

Kirke - Trondheim 

West Facade – Dom Kirke - 

Trondheim 

Detail – West Facade – Dom Kirke 

- Trondheim 

Kristiansen Castle - Trondheim Houses on the rocky shore - Kristiansund Fishing Boat Harbour - Kristiansund 

116

was replaced by herring, then cod fishing and as local 

fish stocks diminished the fishermen had to build larger 

boats to travel to Lofoten. Herring returned and until WWI 

the town flourished. Fish were dried on the large flat 

rocks that are everywhere and exported to southern 

Europe. 

Old Warehouses - Kristiansund 

Lifeboat Drill for Crew – MS 

Nordlys 

Kristiansund is spread across three 

islands connected by bridges. The 

harbour is protected from all directions 

and has been in use since the Stone 

Age. Houses up to 10,000 years old 

have been uncovered 40m above the 

current sea level. The islands are very 

rugged with steep cliffs and large 

rocky areas around the shores. The 

colourful houses wind there way up 

the hillsides. 

During the last three centuries there 

has been continuous change in the 

fortunes of the town. In the 17 th C the 

Dutch purchased timber here. This 

Drilling Platform - Kristiansund 

Offshore Oilfield support ship - Kristiansund 

Stone Church - Kristiansund 

German bombers largely destroyed the town in 1940. It 

has been rebuilt in the original style. 

In 1992 the town was linked to the mainland by a tunnel 

and two bridges. 

While fishing, fish processing and shipbuilding are still 

important, the town is also the base for off shore oil and 

117

gas field development and operation. 

As a result it is a very busy port. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kristiansun 

d 

http://www.eurotravelling.net/norway/k 

ristiansund/kristiansund_history.htm 

We are due at Molde after dinner. As 

we are still behind time we may have 

a short stop there also. Fortunately we were able to go 

ashore at Molde on the way north. 

We arrive a little late and departure is delayed to allow 

some time ashore. We enter the harbour with the modern 

glass hotel and the sports stadium to port. We tie up at 

the southbound Hurtigruten dock. The newest of the 

Hurtigruten fleet, the MS Trollfjord berths soon after at 

the northbound dock. 

Today is Whitsunday, tomorrow is Whit Monday and 

Tuesday 17 th May is of the Constitution Day, celebrating 

the Constitution agreed May 17 th 1814. Later that year 

Sweden invaded and the king was ousted. The Swedes 

accepted the constitution. Separation from Sweden 

occurred in 1905. I believe there will be great 

celebrations. 

Monday 16 May 2005 - Cruise Day 12 

Ålesund, Torvick, Måløy, Florø, Bergen 

Day 29 

usual accompanying racket from the bow and stern 

thrusters and we dock and depart. 

Our last call before Bergen and the end of the trip is Florø 

at breakfast time. This is the administrative centre for the 

Flora region and also another base for the offshore 

oilfields. We dock some distance from the main town 

centre and, as the stop is short, we are unable to go 

ashore. 

118 

Old Schooner - Florø 

Ålesund, Torvick and Måløy have 

been visited since midnight with the 

Church - Florø 

During the night there has been some light snow and 

there is a dusting of fresh snow on the trees at the top of 

the mountains. Yesterday the outside temperature never 

got above 5C. This morning there is sun and occasional 

rain/light snow. The outside temperature before breakfast 

was 3C. The little sun has raised the temperature a bit. 

Florø

The town is colourful in the weak 

morning sun. A few interesting boats 

in the harbour, but they are difficult to 

photograph with the low sun almost 

directly into the camera. 

Atløy – An old coaster - Florø 

Ship docks on schedule but then there is a 45minute wait 

for everyone to get the bags before we finally set of for 

hotels and railway station. Some who have planes to 

catch are getting toey. 

Gathering fleet for Constitution Day 

Finally settled into the Rainbow Rosenkrantz in the old 

part of Bergen. 

Stabben Lighthouse 

We depart on time for the last leg to 

Bergen. We soon pass to port of the 

Stabben Lighthouse and head into 

open sea. We will be unprotected by 

islands to the west for much of the 

remainder of the trip. The sea is calm 

although the westerly wind seems to 

be gradually strengthening. 

We have to leave our cabins at 10:00 

and we are due to arrive in Bergen 

after lunch, at 14:30. 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl 

Bryggen and the Fløibanen 

119

There is a warning of much student 

partying tonight and earplugs are 

offered, gratis, by the hotel. Freebees 

are rare in Norway. Except at 

mealtimes a cup of coffer was 5kr on 

the ship and don't dare stay around 

until the second dinner sitting turn up 

for their coffee. 

Tomorrow is Constitution day and the 

harbour at the bottom of the street is 

packed with yachts and motorboats, small, large and very 

large, including a couple of warships and the tall ship 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl. 

Boats are rafted up at least four deep for 500m along the 

dock. The wind is blowing straight up the fjord and that 

and boats milling about are making it pretty choppy. 

The weather is improving, it has been sunny all 

afternoon, but the weather changes very quickly, so we'll 

see what its like in the morning. 

After catching up with the emails I wander out to find a 

place to eat, not that I need to after what we have had on 

the ship. Its 21:30 when I return. 

No sign of the wild parties and it is very quiet. Went to 

bed with the sun streaming in the window. 

Tuesday 17 May 2005 - Bergen Day 30 

Mother and Daughter - Bergen 

Constitution Day 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constitution_of_Norway 

http://odin.dep.no/odin/english/norway/history/032091- 

991290/dok-bn.html 

Parade Leaders - Bergen 

17th May is Norway's Constitution Day and an official flagflying 

day. 

It is Norway's biggest day of national celebration, 

commemorating the signing of the country's first constitution 

in 1814 and its release from Danish rule after 400 years of 

subjugation. The celebration of 17th May started as a private 

party in the town of Trondheim in the 1820s, but took on 

more of a public nature when in 1823 the event was 

reported in a newspaper. In 1827, May 17th was publicly 

celebrated in the capital Christiania (now Oslo) for the first 

time. The celebration caused political strife since Norway 

was in union with Sweden after the Napoleonic wars and 

right up to 1905. The Swedish king Carl Johan regarded the 

17th of May celebrations as a demonstration and it was not 

until after his death, in 1844, that the day was celebrated in 

full freedom. 

The citizens' procession, in which only men participated, 

was part of the celebrations from an early stage. In 1870 the 

day was marked by a procession of children, on the initiative 

of the distinguished writer and politician, Bjørnstjerne 

Bjørnson. In 1889 girls also took part, initially without flags, 

but with flowers in their hair. In subsequent years more and 

more women joined the processions. 

In the inter-war years, there was political dispute between 

the working and the middle classes as to how May 17th 

should be celebrated. The workers saw it as a symbol of the 

bourgeoisie and refused to take part. During WWII, the 

120

German occupiers forbade any 

celebration of 17th May. After the 

liberation in 1945, Constitution Day 

gained a whole new significance, one 

which it has held to this day. 

their celebration on May 1st but form a colourful contribution 

to the 17th of May processions in their red or blue outfits. 

They add a more light-hearted element of carnival to the 

procession and the adults generally turn a blind eye to their 

noisy and boisterous behaviour. 

Roofs of Bryggen - Bergen 

Kong Oscars Gate - Bergen 

May 17th is a political and patriotic day 

which is marked by flags, music national 

dress, parades, speeches and the 

laying of wreaths on monuments. The 

royal family symbolises the unity of the 

people through greeting the procession 

of Oslo schoolchildren from the balcony 

of the royal palace. Church services are 

also held. 

Students - Bergen 

Constitution Day is above all the children's day, with the 

schools as natural assembly points. The flag is hoisted in 

the schoolyard and the children walk in the processions 

under the special banner of their school. In the afternoon 

games and entertainment are arranged in the schools for 

both the children and their families. The pupils who have 

completed their 12 years of schooling, the russ (from the 

Latin cornua depositurus = to put aside one's horns) start 

Opening Salute - Bergen 

This is the day to wear new clothes but the bunad, or 

national dress is becoming more and more universal on 17th 

May. Each region of the country has its own version of the 

bunad with which to mark both national and local affiliation. 

The hotel has notices telling guest that celebrations will 

start at 07:00 with the firing of guns at the Palace, just 

down the road, and this will be followed by a parade 

through the neighbouring streets. 

What they didn’t say was that the first band would march 

past the back of the hotel at 05:30. I wake to the sound of 

drums from the direction of the Palace, check the clock, 

no it is not 07:00 and I haven’t slept through the start of 

the official celebrations. I get up and take a photo or two 

of the band out of my window. I also have a view of 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl and the rooves of the Hanseatic 

warehouses (Bryggen) next door. It is also a little 

121

disconcerting to have the morning sun 

streaming through the same window 

as the setting sun. 

The red (and blue) overalls are traditionally worn during 

the period between when students finish high school and 

they start university. 

Parading Firemen - Bergen 

Students on Parade - Bergen 

Mariakirken - Bergen 

The 07:00 parade starts nearby, I 

don’t know exactly where, so I follow 

the people dressed in national 

costumes and soon find where the 

parade is assembling. 

At the head of the parade are the city 

dignitaries, senior military and police 

officers, and others I can’t recognise. 

Uniforms and medals are being worn 

and the dignitaries are in suits, 

national costumes and top hats, 

including the women. 

Family on Parade - Bergen 

Two very impressive bands follow them. 

Finally there is a student band leading a mob of students 

wearing red bib and brace overalls with the braces down 

and blowing whistles continually. 

Veteran Fire Engine- Bergen 

I return to the hotel for breakfast to find that half of 

Bergen seems to have booked in for breakfast and the 

room is packed with people in national costume. The 

122

hotel guests are shunted into a back 

room and people are being shuffled 

around to get more diners in. 

for the parade approaches we find positions by the 

kerbside. Meanwhile after a pleasant early morning it 

starts to rain and I am told the forecast is for snow above 

300m. ie at the upper Fløibanen station. 

soon appears, led by the same dignitaries as the earlier 

parade. The rain has stopped and it is quite pleasant. 

It seems that everyone in Bergen is either in the parade 

or watching it. After 1¼ hour I am getting stiff from 

standing in the one place and the parade is still going 

past. Every organisation you can imagine is represented. 

The couple decide to leave and I do also. Almost 

immediately it starts to rain, they all whip out their 

umbrellas, and then it starts to hail, serious cold stuff. 

The hotel is one block away and I head for cover. 

St Catherines Hospital – 1250 - Bergen 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl - Bergen 

The main parade starts in the city 

centre and makes its way to the castle 

and back. It starts at 10:30. I go out to 

find a vantage point at around 09:30 

and find that now there is police tape 

closing some nearby streets. It is also 

obvious the parade goes round the 

corner by the fish market. I check with 

a couple that seem to have settled in 

to watch the parade. Yes, the parade 

rounds the corner, not once, but twice 

and many of the participants also 

come by on their way to the assembly 

point. I chat to the couple and as time 

Håkonhallen - Bergen 

Sharp at 10:30 a salute is fired from the mountainside 

above the Fløibanen station and the head of the parade 

T 

Castle - Bergen 

he weather improves in the afternoon and I go to the 

castle and the Dom Kirke. On the way to the castle I 

stumble on display featuring the ruins of St Catherine’s 

Hospital, the first hospital for women in Norway, 

123

established in 1250. It is near 

Mariakirken dating from the Middle 

Ages. 

The Dom Kirke is quite modest, but 

nearby is the Korskirken, the Church 

of the Cross-, reputed to have had a 

piece of the cross of Calvary. True or not there has been 

a church on the site since the 12 th C and it has been a 

church for seamen and others not attached to a particular 

parish. It was not open. In the evening as part of the 

celebrations there is to be a concert. 

A male choir presented the concert of church music. 

All the museums have been closed. There are still plenty 

of people about in their national dress and some stop and 

talk about the day. 

124


AND THE 


Part 2 – England and Scotland 


Jim Russell 

125

126

Wednesday 18 May 2005 - Bergen to Newcastle, England Day 31 

Today has mostly been a non-day, airports and planes. Isabelle was on the same plane and able to come and sit with me on the flight from London to Newcasle 

Thursday 19 May May 2005 - Newcastle Day 32 

The weather in the morning was not to promising, 

raining and cold. However by the time I had 

checked emails and planned what I was going to 

do the rain had stopped and I set off in the local 

Metro for Wallsend and the museum at the site of 

the Roman Fort, Segedunum, at the eastern end of 

Hadrian’s Wall. 

The museum is housed in the old cafeteria building 

and a nine-storey observation tower enables 

visitors to overlook the site, including the fort, the 

remains of the coal mine and the shipyard. The 

shipyard is still building ships for the Royal Navy. 

http://www.segedunum.com/ 

Segedunum 

Swan Hunter shipyard 

Model of Segedunum 

It is just good luck that anything remains of the site. 

The old Wallsend Coal Mines and the Swan Hunter 

shipyards have occupied the site without any 

regard for the historical value of the site. 

Hadrian’s Wall 

http://www.swanhunter.com/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swan_Hunter 

There is not a great deal of the fort’s foundations 

remaining, but there is enough for the full plan of 

the fort to be laid out so that all the buildings can 

be seen. Unfortunately a modern road passes 

through the fort, cutting off part of the northern 

section. There is an excellent model of the fort as it 

once was in the museum. 

127

Next stop is the Millennium Bridge across the Tyne 

on my way to the Baltic Centre for Contemporary 

Art. 

http://www.gateshead.gov.uk/bridge/bridged.htm 

The last exhibition is jointly curated with a Sydney 

Art Gallery. 

Generally a very successful use of the old 

industrial building. 

128 

Observation Tower - Segedunum 

The museum had a special exhibition of the ‘Lewis 

Chessmen’, discovered quite recently hidden on an 

island in the Hebrides. The chessmen are from the 

15 th C and are carved from seal and walrus ivory. 

Where they came from and why they were hidden 

is unknown. 78 pieces from 4 identifiable sets were 

found. The ones on display were from the British 

Museum. 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/compass/ixbin/ 

goto?id=OBJ566 

Millennium Bridge - Newcastle 

Hinge - Millennium Bridge - Newcastle 

The Millennium Bridge is most unusual and the 

only one of its type. Two arches, one a supporting 

arch and the other a walkway are connected 

together at about 120° to on another. The arches 

rotate together so that the walkway is raised to 

open the river with a clearance of 25m, the same 

clearance as the Tyne Bridge, thus allowing ships 

to pass up river. 

The Baltic Centre is housed in a building that was 

once flourmill. The building that contained the silos 

has been converted into 5 levels of gallery space 

for displaying contemporary works of art. There is 

no permanent collection so there is regular rotation 

of the exhibitions. 

http://www.balticmill.com/html/index.html 

The current exhibitions include photographic work 

by Julian Germain, paintings by Barnaby Furnass, 

and installation pieces by Ed and Nancy Kienholz. 

Sage, Gatehouse 

Inside the Sage, Gatehouse

All Saints - Newcastle 

Keep – Castle Garth - Newcastle St Nicholas Cathedral Blackgate – Castle Garth - 

Newcastle 

Tyne Bridge 

Tyne Bridge, Swing Bridge, High Bridge - 

Newcastle 

View from the Keep – Castle Garth 

129

was built by Robert Curthouse in 1080. This early castle 

was rebuilt in stone in the 12 th and 13 th C. It is remarkable 

that Castle Garth has survived at all. Now restored and 

opened as a museum the keep is quite interesting. The 

castle was attacked many times, especially during the 

wars between England and Scotland. In the 1840’s 

railway construction buildings covering the site were 

removed and railway viaducts were constructed nearby. 

One viaduct passes through the castle yard. 

http://www.twmuseums.org.uk/discovery/ 

http://www.twmuseums.org.uk/discovery/turbinia.php 

http://museums.ncl.ac.uk/keep/index.htm 

Armstrong Whitworth Car 

130 

Grey’s Monument - Newcastle 

Sage, Gateshead is a huge, modern 

concert centre on the south bank of 

the Tyne. It was completed in 2005. 

Inside the spaces are also very large 

and I walk through the reception and 

café area to the other end and up 

onto the Tyne Bridge. From the bridge 

there is a good view of The Baltic, The 

Millennium Bridge and The Sage 

Gateshead. 

http://www.thesagegateshead.org/ 

I can see the castle keep, but my map 

lacks detail and I spend some time 

finding a way there. I eventually find a 

stairway near the Swing Bridge that 

leads up to the castle. The first castle 

Turbinia – Discovery Museum - Newcastle 

Time is passing and I set off for the Discovery Museum. 

Apart from the excellent displays showing the history of 

Tyneside, Newcastle and the technical achievements of 

the region, the first steam turbine driven ship, Turbinia, is 

on display. Built by Charles Parsons in 1894 she 

became, in 1897, the fastest ship in the world at 34knots. 

This development marked the end of traditional steam 

engines for ships. One of the museum attendants told me 

the history of her recovery and restoration. She had been 

cut up and bits scattered around England. Fortunately the 

pieces had not been destroyed and they were collected 

together and reassembled. 

Walls of Newcastle 

At 17:00 it is time to meet Isabelle and her daughter Liz 

at Grey’s Monument. Grey’s Monument stands out like 

Nelson’s column so it is easy to find and is a common 

meeting place for the locals.

Grey’s monument was erected in 

1838 to commemorate Earl Grey and 

his contribution to the passing of the 

Great Reform Bill. The Roman Doric 

column of hard millstone grit stands 

135ft tall and is set on a base of local 

sandstone. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Grey,_2nd_Earl_Gre 

y 

After a drink at a nearby bar we go for dinner at a gallery 

and restaurant in the Biscuit Barn. The building was once 

a biscuit factory. It has been converted into a very nice 

gallery displaying contemporary work, in all media, which 

is for sale. There are some very attractive and wellexecuted 

glass and ceramic pieces. 

Friday 20 May 2005 - Newcastle to Kirkcaldy Day 33 

http://www.alnwickcastle.com/ 

http://www.alnwickgarden.com/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alnwick_Garden 

Poison Plant Garden - Alnwick Garden 

Up early to go to the airport to pick up the car. 

Isabelle is able to drive me as she is leaving early 

for work. I am a bit early so I spend the time writing 

yesterdays notes. 

About 35 miles north of Newcastle is Alnwick 

Garden and Castle. This is a new garden being 

established in the grounds of Alnwick under the 

patronage of the Duchess of Northumberland. 

Alnwick Castle is the home of the Duke and 

Duchess and was the location for the filming of the 

Harry Potter films. The Percy (or de Percy) family 

acquired the estate for services to William the 

Conqueror and the name has continued, albeit not 

always through the male line. 

Cascade - Alnwick Garden 

A central feature of the garden is the water 

cascade. A special poisonous plant garden 

features plants common in the British countryside 

and gardens that are potentially deadly. Entry to 

this part of the garden is only allowed with a guide. 

Construction of buildings in the garden is in 

progress and it is obvious a lot of money is being 

invested to make the centre, castle and village a 

tourist attraction in this part of England. 

Water Feature - Alnwick Garden 

Serpent Garden - Alnwick Garden 

131

Ornamental Garden - Alnwick Garden 

Alnwick Castle 

Water Feature - Alnwick Garden 

I spent a little longer than I intended, 

nearly 2½ hours and it is after 12:30 

before I am on the road again, 

heading north along the A1. 

Everything is fine, the weather has 

been good, and then shortly after 

passing Berwick on Tweed, I am 

struck by a violent rain storm. 

It lasted about 10 minutes and then 

cleared. Traffic was OK until I 

approached Edinburgh and got onto 

the ring road. The last 30 miles or so 

took about 1½ hour. 

Tree House - Alnwick Garden 

Knight’s School - Alnwick Garden 

Eventually I arrived at Dave and Helen’s and shortly after 

we picked up Tom to go for the Friday night drink. 

132

Saturday 21 May 2005 - Kirkcaldy Day 34 

The day starts fine, and apart for alight shower mid 

morning, remains fine. A haircut is required and so 

Dave takes me to the usual barber in Kirkcaldy. 

Dundee is renowned for three Js, Jute, Jam and 

Journalism. At one time processing jute was the 

main industry and there were many mills spinning 

and weaving jute fibre. The jute industry followed 

established linen industry practices, for processing 

flax, as processing techniques are similar. 

McManus Gallery - Dundee 

Dundee 

Tom has booked seats for ‘The Graduate’ at the 

Dundee Repertory Theatre for this evening. 

http://www.dundeereptheatre.co.uk/ 

After lunch we head off to Dundee and after 

wandering through the Saturday farmers market 

we come upon the McManus Gallery. We are 

curious about the building; the style is Gothic and 

we wonder what it might have been before it 

became a gallery. Turns out the building had 

always housed a gallery. 

http://www.scottisharts.org.uk/1/artsinscotland/visu 

alarts/features/archive/venuemcmanusgalleries.as 

px 

Verdant Works - Dundee 

It housed a display of the history of Dundee, and a 

collection of paintings by Scottish artists. 

The gallery is to close soon for major renovations 

to the building. 

Courtyard - Verdant Works - Dundee 

Office - Verdant Works - Dundee 

133

Textile machinery - Verdant Works - Dundee 

Competition from mills in India finally closed the 

mills. Jute fibre came from India and it was only 

natural that mills would be set up closer to the raw 

materials where labour costs were also lower. 

Many of the Dundee textile machines have been 

moved to India and Bangladesh. 

The Verdant Mills Textile Heritage Museum has 

displays covering the history, processing and uses 

of the textile products produced at the many large 

mills in Dundee. Displays of life, particularly of 

women and children, in the city paint a grim picture 

of the way the people lived in Industrial Revolution 

Britain. 

http://www.theheritagetrail.co.uk/industrial/verdant_ 

works.htm 

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/dundee/ver 

dantworks/ 

A drink in a local pub gave us a chance to see the 

end of the FA Cup Final. Another inconclusive 

soccer match; decided by penalty shootouts. 

We dined at the restaurant at the theatre before 

the show. A very nice meal and a good show. 

Sunday 22 May 2005 - Kirkcaldy to Sheffield Day 35 

As there was no reason to rush to get 

to Sheffield I didn’t leave Helen and 

Dave’s until about 09:45. A bit slack, 

but it was raining and not very inviting 

for driving. 

The fastest route, provided there are 

no road works etc. is to cross the 

Forth Bridge, head for Glasgow and 

then head south towards Greater 

Manchester on the M6, cutting across 

to the M1 on the M66 and M60 and 

enter Sheffield from the North East. 

To avoid delays on the Forth Bridge due to repair work I 

went up river to the Kincardine Bridge that meant a 

slower drive through towns on the North side of the Forth. 

Once across the Forth I was soon on the motorways, 

heading first west then south. I was making good time but 

it was getting rather boring travelling at 70mph. By now 

the weather was improving and after about 3 hours I 

decided to cut off onto the A65 and wend my way 

through North Yorkshire and then onto the A629 to 

Sheffield. 

A much slower route that skirts the Yorkshire Dales 

National Park and passes through farms with stone walls, 

fresh spring grass and lambs frolicking in the fields. The 

A629 passes through the mill towns of Halifax and 

Huddersfield, once famous for their woollen mills, the 

black soot from the boilers that raised steam from the 

mills and the working conditions of those employed in the 

mills. These were some of the towns of the ‘Dark Satanic 

Mills’. Now they are clean, the soot has been washed 

away but a little remains, and they nestle beside the 

rivers that provided the water required for the mills. 

Tonight Rod Stewart is performing at the Arena across 

the road. Crowds seem to be middle aged. 

Monday 23 May 2005 - Sheffield Day 36 

Today’s plan is to visit two industrial 

museums in Sheffield. Since the 13 th 

C Sheffield has produced iron and 

steel products. The first cutler was recorded in the town 

in 1297. By the time of Queen Elizabeth 1 (1558 – 1603) 

Sheffield knives, scythes, sickles and other tools were 

becoming internationally renowned. 

134

folded into shear (for making shears) steel that was ideal 

for durable and sharp cutting edges. 

Bessemer Converter - Kelham 

Island Museum - Sheffield 

The industry continued to grow and 

with the introduction of waterwheels to 

drive the hammers, grinding stones 

and air pumps, production further 

increased. By the 1770’s there were 

161 water-powered workshops within 

5 miles of the Sheffield parish church. 

This could not have been achieved 

without the large number of streams 

bringing water from the Yorkshire 

Moors into the Rivers Don and 

Sheave. Only a handful of the 

remains of these mills exist. One is at 

Abbeydale where most of the original 

workshop has been preserved. 

River Don Engine - Kelham Island Museum - 

Sheffield 

River Don - Sheffield 

Sheffield continued to grow as a centre for manufacturing 

high quality cutlery; steel, silver, silver plated, and finally 

stainless steel. The demands of this industry for high 

quality raw material meant that iron bar was imported 

from Sweden. This was converted to blister steel in 

cementation furnaces. The steel was then hammered and 

Globe Works - Sheffield 

The invention of crucible steel and the advent of steam 

power revolutionised the cutlery industry and it also made 

available steels that could be used in the machines of the 

early industrial revolution. 

Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet - Sheffield 

135

Little Mesters, small business of one to three people, who 

contributed specialised products and skills to the Master 

Manufacturers. 

prospect of one. Women and children worked in the 

factories. The workers organised for better working 

conditions in the early 1800’s. 

By 1850, Sheffield was making 90% of all steel used in 

Britain, 50% of all steel used in Europe and a large 

proportion of that used in the USA. 

Grinding Wheel for Sharpening Scythes - 

Abbeydale 

136 

Green Lane Works - Sheffield 

The Kelham Island Museum 

chronicles the rise (and decline) of 

steel making in Sheffield. Early growth 

was hampered by the lack of transport 

into and out of Sheffield to bring in the 

raw materials and ship out the 

finished products. These gradually 

improved as canals and toll roads 

developed from the 1750’s a speedy 

mail coach could reach London in 

three days. 

In 1819 the canal from Rotherham 

reached Sheffield near Kelham 

Islands. The surrounding flat land 

made it an ideal place to build large 

steam powered factories. Whilst the 

factories grew there continued to be 

Tilt Hammers - Abbeydale 

The living and working conditions in the town and 

factories was poor by modern standards, but for many it 

was better than rural life where there was no job and little 

Melting Furnaces - Abbeydale 

Works Buildings - Abbeydale

The museum has displays of equipment, processes and 

products of Sheffield’s pre-eminence as the world’s 

quality steel maker. These days there are still steel 

makers in Sheffield making specialised steels. 

http://www.simt.co.uk/home.html 

hull where scythes and similar agricultural tools were 

sharpened. There were never more than 30 people 

employed at the site. 

The Abbeydale Works were the scene of many industrial 

incident related to the employment of non-union labour. 

Sign posting of roads in Sheffield leave a lot to be 

desired. Finding the names of some major roads is often 

difficult and on a number of occasions my computer 

maps saved me from disappearing into the wilds of 

Yorkshire. 

Waterwheel for Tilt Hammers - 

Abbeydale 

In 1856 Henry Bessemer designed 

the converter that was to enable bulk 

production of steel. Now bulk 

production of railway lines, girders 

and steel plate became possible. 

Steel for armaments lead to 

competition between firms and 

diversification into arms production 

and shipbuilding. 

Managers House - Abbeydale 

Whilst Kelham Island Museum tries to capture the history 

of steel and steel products in Sheffield, Abbeydale 

Industrial Hamlet is a time capsule. It was once one of 

the largest water powered sites on the Sheaf River. In the 

1200’s, the monks of Beauchief Abbey had a forge 

nearby. In 1685, Hugh Stephenson rented the ‘New 

Wheel’ at the site. The famous hand tool making firn, 

Tyzak, ran the hamlet from 1849 until 1933. 

The main features of the site are the crucible furnace, the 

only intact one in the world, the tilt forge and the grinding 

Storage Dam - Abbeydale 

137

Tuesday 24 May 2005 - Sheffield to Shifnal (Ironbridge) Day 37 

Shifnal at about 11:30. Tom arrives to meet me there and 

guide me to John and Ann’s house in the countryside. 

An early lunch and we will set out to visit the Ironbridge 

Gorge Museums. 

http://www.ironbridge.org.uk/ 

http://www.ironbridge.info/history/ 

http://www.telford.gov.uk/FreeTime/LocalHistory/Ironbridg 

eWorldHeritageSite.htm 

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/society_culture/industrialisati 

on/iron_bridge_06.shtml 

Grocery Store - Blists Hill 

Shropshire Canal and Coal Mine - 

Blists Hill 

Depart Sheffield at about 07:45 on my 

way to Shifnal in Shropshire and 

Tom’s brothers place. In a perfect 

world the trip should take about 2½ 

hours. A few minor delays on the M1 

but once I change to the M42 to head 

west the traffic slows right down and it 

is not until I am west of Birmingham 

and off the M6 northbound that the 

traffic flow becomes reasonable. The 

result is I arrive at the White Hart in 

Pharmacy Store - Blists Hill 

Metal clad Ice Breaking Canal Boat - Blists Hill 

It is in this gorge that the Industrial Revolution is said to 

have started. Iron has been smelted here for centuries as 

the raw materials, iron ore, limestone and charcoal for 

iron making and clay for brick making are available near 

by. Coal was also available but was not used for iron 

making. 

At the beginning of the 1700’s, blast furnaces using 

charcoal as fuel were operating in the valley. Pig iron 

138

Production volumes were low as 

supplies of charcoal were limited. 

construction work began. The bridge was opened in 

1779. 

Abraham Darby had experience of 

making brass pots and saw that 

casting pots from a cheaper metal in 

sand moulds would make it possible 

to mass produce pots. 

Candle Makers Shop - Blists Hill 

Abraham Darby could now produce large quantities of pig 

iron the raw material for cast iron and wrought iron. The 

works became known as Coalbrookdale 

Remains of the Blast Furnaces - Blists Hill 

Beam Engine in Machine Shop - 

Blists Hill 

The breakthrough came in 1709 when 

Abraham Darby successfully smelted 

iron with coke made from the local 

coal. 

Wood Carver at Work - Blists Hill 

In 1773 Thomas Farnolls Pritchard proposed at an iron 

bridge across the gorge. Abraham Darby III was 

commissioned to cast the components and in 1777 

Rolling Mills – Wrought Iron Works - Blists Hill 

This demonstration of successful construction of a bridge 

using cast and wrought iron together with Darby’s ability 

to produce cheap cast iron products of all sorts resulted 

in rapid expansion of the works and opening of further 

blast furnaces in the gorge. 

139

of the canal with the lower stretch of the canal and the 

Severn River that raw materials and finished goods could 

be moved to and from the site. In 1860 a railway branch 

link was built that in due course supplanted the canal. 

subject to subsidence. This is an ongoing problem and 

some road surfaces have subsided considerably. 

Iron Foundry - Blists Hill 

Hay Inclined Plane - Blists Hill 

140 

Coalport Pottery Museum 

After lunch we set out to visit some of 

the museums in the gorge. The 

closest, Blist’s Hill is a recreated 

Victorian Town around the relics of 

the Blist’s Hill iron and brick works. 

The town contains examples of typical 

shops and crafts from Victorian 

England and the times when Blist’s hill 

was a working town. Up to 500 people 

worked in the mines, blast furnaces, 

brick factories, and wrought iron mill. 

By the late 18 th C coal mining was 

well established, but it was not until 

the Shropshire Canal and the 305m 

long Hay Inclined Plane was 

completed, connecting the upper level 

School Group in Period Costume - Blists Hill 

The Hay Inclined Plane was last used in 1896. 

Maintenance of the canal was a problem as the land is 

Workshop – Coalport Pottery Museum 

Between 1832 and 1844, three blast furnaces were built 

to replace the Bedlam Furnaces on the riverbank. The

emains of the Bedlam Furnaces can be seen by 

the riverbank. 

The blast furnaces shut down in 1912 and the 

brickworks followed in the 1950’s. 

Blists Hill was abandoned as an industrial 

wasteland until the Ironbridge Gorge Museum 

Trust opened the Blist’s Hill Open Air Museum in 

1973. 

Our next stop is the Iron Bridge itself. The arch of 

slender cast iron ribs spans 120ft and is high 

enough to permit passage of the sailing trows and 

to permit river crossing in the highest floods. The 

Gorge is regularly flooded and only this year 

houses in the gorge were flooded. 

Records of the construction of the bridge have 

been lost and in 2001 the BBC commissioned a 

project to demonstrate an erection method. Half 

scale arches were successfully raised and stand in 

the Blists Hill village. 

Severn River – Ironbridge Gorge 

Blists Hill is similar to Sovereign Hill at Ballarat, 

Victoria. The period displays are excellent. School 

children dress up as children of the period and 

have to behave as school children of the era. 

Some we saw were having difficulty standing still in 

line. However it is the engineering relics on the site 

that are most interesting, the steam winding 

engine, machine shop, wrought iron mill with its 

steam hammer and rolling mills and the huge 

David and Sampson blowing engines from the 

Priorslee blast furnaces. These steam beam 

engines were capable of blowing 354m 3 per 

minute. 

The Iron Bridge 

Replica of Trevithick Locomotive - Blists Hill 

In 1802-3, Richard Trevithick built a steam railway 

locomotive at Coalbrookdale, which is now 

recognized as the first in the world. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Trevithick 

The Spry, the last Lower Severn Trow, a beamy 

flat-bottomed sailing barge, that used to ply the 

Severn River is also on display. 

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/society_culture/industr 

ialisation/iron_bridge_06.shtml 

The Coalport potteries are situated beside the 

Severn River. They were set up in 1796 and 

production stopped in 1926. Part of the Pottery 

was reopened to house the Coalport China 

Museum showing the history of the pottery and its 

work. Potters still work on the site and the displays 

show all the steps in making fine bone china. Like 

most museums about the period, the lives of the 

workers are portrayed, and this case the impact of 

lead poisoning from pigments and the effect of dust 

on the health of the workers is highlighted. 

Last stop is the Tar Tunnel. In 1798 William 

Reynolds tried to drive a tunnel from the riverbank 

to Blists Hill. After 275m the miners struck a spring 

of tar. Initially up to 2000l per day was collected, 

but this decreased and by 1820 it produced no 

more than 10 barrels a year. In the 1790’s visitors 

reported that it extended 1000m, as far as the 

upper shafts at Blist’s Hill. Some local miners 

believe it extended even further. 

141

Wednesday 25 May 2005 - Ironbridge Day 38 

No rush this morning, Ironbridge 

museums don’t open until 10:00 and 

we are only 10 minutes away. 

more iron for the Iron Bridge project. The presence of the 

large waterwheel to drive the bellows on one side of the 

furnace meant that the enlargement was on one side 

only. The furnace stopped production in 1818. 

Although the problem of sufficient fuel for the furnace had 

been solved, water supply for the waterwheels that drove 

the bellows for the blast furnace could be a problem. This 

was overcome by installing a fire engine (steam pump) to 

return water from the lower furnace poool to the upper 

furnace pool, thus conserving the water. This fire engine 

was replaced by a Newcomen beam engine in 1742 and 

this was subsequently replaced by a large Bouton and 

Watt steam engine called ‘Resolution’ in 1788. This 

engine pumped water from a lower pool, raising the water 

37m, a considerable achievement at the time. 

The museum is housed in a building known as the Great 

Warehouse 1838. The display traces Abraham Darby’s 

achievements and the role of subsequent 

owner/managers of the Coalbrookdale works and the 

development of the works. 

Cast Iron Products – Museum of Iron 

142 

Cast Iron Statue – Museum of 

Iron 

The Museum of Iron is situated at the 

Coalbrookdale site where Abraham 

Darby first smelted iron with coke. 

Roofed over to protect it is the 

remains of the blast furnace that he 

modified to use coke instead of 

charcoal for fuel. During the 1770’s 

the furnace was enlarged to produce 

Cast Iron Table – Museum of Iron 

Water Wheel Site – Museum of Iron 

After cessation of iron making on the site, Coalbrookdale 

started to specialise in fine art castings.

The output of the iron foundry was varied, but 

much of the production was decorative items for 

the gardens and buildings of the time. There are 

extensive displays of examples of this work. The 

highlight of this period was the production of the 

cast iron components for the building (Crystal 

Palace) for the 1851 Great Exhibition of All 

Nations. 2000 tons of iron was being cast. 

illustrate the principles of many modern devices. 

Designed for children, it is nevertheless extremely 

interesting and when the kids aren’t about the 

adults play. 

as storage at times of low river when the trows 

could not navigate the river. 

Dockside Warehouse – Ironbridge Museum 

Locomotive – Severn Valley Railway - 

Bridgnorth 

Remnants of the Darby Blast Furnace 

Ingenuity – Museum of Iron 

Nearby is Enginuity, a hall filled with interactive 

scientific and technological exhibits designed to 

Locomotive – Severn Valley Railway - 

Bridgnorth 

Ironbridge Gorge Museum, on the riverbank next to 

the Ludcroft Wharf where goods from the 

Coalbrookdale works were loaded on Severn 

Trows for the trip down river. The building served 

Severn Valley Railway – Bridgnorth Station 

A large model of the Ironbridge Gorge as it was on 

12 August 1796 shows where the principal works 

and villages of the day were situated. 

We finish the day at Severn Valley Railway station 

at Bridgnorth. We arrive in time for the departure of 

the 16:05 train to Kidderminster. Hauled by a 

143

steam locomotive this historic train makes several trips a day over the 15-mile journey in the summer. 

Sunday 22 May 2005 - Day 39 

144 

St Gregory’s Catholic Church - 

Cheltenham 

Not a long trip today, the weather is 

good and I have decided not to travel 

on the motorway as I would encounter 

the same congestion as on Tuesday. 

The trip through Kidderminster, 

around Worcester and through 

Tewksbury takes about 2¼ hours and 

I find Jo’s place in Cheltenham 

without any trouble. 

http://www.cheltweb.co.uk/history.htm 

St Gregory’s Catholic Church - Cheltenham 

Cheltenham became a spa town in 1716 when a spring 

surrounded by salty deposits was found. 

In 1788 King George III came to drink the waters and the 

transformation into a fashionable resort began. 

Over the following decades the town developed in the 

architectural style popularized by the Prince Regent in 

Brighton, with sweeping classical terraces and elegant 

villas set in landscaped estates around broad tree lined 

walks. 

Royal Terrace - Cheltenham 

Montpellier Walk - Cheltenham

St Mary’s Church - Cheltenham 

Many of these buildings remain. 

Montpellier walk and it Caryatids 

modelled on those in the Acropolis, 

Athens remains as shops facing the 

Montpellier Gardens. The Montpellier 

Pump Room has become a bank and 

the Pittville Pump Room, a little way 

out of town is a function hall for 

concerts, etc. 

Council Building – The Promenade - Cheltenham 

Montpellier Gardens - Cheltenham 

Town Hall - Cheltenham 

There are many churches. Most date from a period of 

religious revival in the 19 th C. Notably St Gregory’s 

Catholic Church was built in 1854. It has some very 

beautiful stained glass windows. St Mary’s Church dates 

from the 13 th and 14 th C. 

In the Cheltenham Art Gallery and Museum is a collection 

of work by members of the Arts and Crafts Movement. 

This group tried to counter the sameness of products of 

the Industrial Revolution, by encouraging greater use of 

traditional arts and crafts in items. There are also 

displays of local life and history. 

Friday 27 May 2005 - Cheltenham Day 40 

This morning I set out for the Royal 

Forest of Dean between the Severn 

and Wye rivers. Timber for ships, iron, 

and agricultural products have come from the Forest for 

centuries. Once a Royal Hunting forest many of the 

original animals have disappeared, but many remain and 

bird life is plentiful. 

145

past and present and of the lives of the foresters, miners 

and iron makers. Many of the foresters and miners had 

gardens to produce food for the family. 

Cider Press – Dean Heritage 

Centre 

Cottage Garden – Dean Heritage Centre 

Coal Mine Beam Engine – Dean Heritage Centre 

Forest Animals – Dean Heritage 

Centre 

http://www.fweb.org.uk/dean/deanhist/ 

I commenced my visit at the Forest of 

Dean Heritage Centre. There are 

displays of the activities in the forest, 

Cottage Interior – Dean Heritage Centre 

Each spring and summer bank holiday weekend there is 

a demonstration of charcoal burning and iron smelting. Of 

course that is tomorrow. 

Water Wheel – Dean Heritage Centre 

Iron has been mined in the area since before Roman 

times and I visited the site of a pre Roman open cast iron 

ore mine. The forest has reclaimed the site and it now 

serves as a maze called Puzzle Wood. Walks through the 

forest and the gullies formed by the mining operation 

form a maze. The maze is about 200 years old. Nearby is 

the Clearwell Caves. These caves have pockets of iron 

146

ore in the limestone. The mine is no 

longer worked for the ore. Some ore is 

recovered for pigment production. 

Regency watering hole and dance hall. There is a concert 

there tonight. 

Mill Pond – Dean Heritage Centre 

Charcoal Burner – Dean Heritage 

Centre 

Inside Clearwell Caves – Forest of Dean 

Bluebells – Forest of Dean 

Free Miners mined coal and the 

Hopewell Mine was owned by one of 

them. 

Cannop Ponds – Forest of Dean 

The forest is very pretty at this time of year. The trees are 

bright green with their new leaves and forest floor is 

covered with spring flowers. 

I had thought to go onto the new Corinium Museum at 

Cirencester but time was running out and I made my way 

back to Celtenham and the Pittville Pump Room, a grand 

Puzzle Wood – Forest of Dean 

147

Pittville Pump House - Cheltenham Pittville Pump House - Cheltenham Pittville Pump House - Cheltenham 

Saturday 28 May 2005 - Cheltenham to Clevedon Day 41 

and South Wales, so I left an hour early for the 75km 

drive from Cheltenham to Clevedon where Paddy 

Dalloway was expecting me for lunch at about 11:45. 

Pierhead - Clevedon 

Clevedon 

This is the start of the May Bank Holiday weekend. Last 

night the M5 towards Cornwall (and Clevedon) was one 

huge parking lot. I expected some delays this morning as 

people were still heading south to the seaside in Cornwall 

Cottage - Clevedon 

148

for lunch. Total of 3 hours to travel 75km on a motorway! 

with Paddy. Supper is at 18:30 so I join Paddy for a drink 

in her apartment beforehand. Her friend Shannah joins us 

at supper. The conversation ranges from politics to travel 

and sport. 

Buttercups - Clevedon 

Low Tide - Clevedon 

Rotunda - Clevedon 

An after supper drink, this time in Shannah’s apartment, 

and it is time to leave them both to have an early night. 

Paddy was pleased to see me and I was pleased to see 

her again. 

Ashley’s Guest House that Paddy had recommended 

was very comfortable. 

Boys Fishing - Clevedon 

For 30km all is fine then everything 

stops and the traffic crawls along at 

10kph. 

I eventually arrive at 13:15, 15 

minutes late, fortunately not too late, 

St Andrew’s Church - Clevedon 

Lunch was very pleasant and at about 14:30 I head off to 

my B&B to get settled in before a long walk along Poet’s 

walk and the golf course to walk off lunch before supper 

149

Sunday 29 May 2005 - Clevedon to Oxford Day 42 

Plan A for the day was to get away in 

time to visit the SS Great Britain 

Museum in Bristol, then on to Bath, 

Cirencester and Oxford to stay with 

Jennie and Peter McFadden. 

Museum it was after 13:00 so had had to give Bath a 

miss in favour of the recently reopened Corinium 

Museum at Cirencester. 

Looking Forward - SS Great 

Britain 

Things didn’t quite work out that way. 

Lingered over breakfast talking to the 

other guests so that I didn’t arrive at 

the Great Britain until 10:45 and by 

the time I had looked at the ship, the 

docks and the Bristol Industrial 

SS Great Britain - Bristol 

Promenade Deck - SS Great Britain 

Galley - SS Great Britain 

The SS Great Britain is one on the achievements of the 

great Victorian engineer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel. The 

first sizable ship constructed of iron and driven propeller 

she was a revolutionary departure in ship design that 

affected all subsequent maritime history. Brunel had 

realised that the engine required to drive a ship did not 

increase with directly with the size of the ship and 

therefore a large ship could carry sufficient coal for a 

trans Atlantic voyage and still have space for cargo and 

passengers. Originally designed as a paddle steamer, the 

design was changed to use a screw propeller. At the time 

she was a third larger than any previous ship. 

http://www.24hourmuseum.org.uk/museum_gfx_en/SW0 

00127.html 

http://www.nhsc.org.uk/index.cfm/event/getVessel/vref/76 

http://www.seabritain2005.com/server.php?show=ConWe 

bDoc.701 

She was built in the dry dock where she is now on display 

and was ‘launched’ 19 July 1843. She was a great 

150

success, but after going aground on 

22 nd September 1846, shortly after 

leaving Liverpool, she made only a 

few more trans Atlantic voyages. She 

continued to sail and made many 

voyages to Australia carrying 

immigrants. She was converted to a 

sailing ship with steam assistance and 

her propeller could be disengaged 

from the shaft so that it could 

freewheel when she was under sail. 

she was built. Restoration work is continuing and project 

costing over 11,000,000 pounds is in progress to 

complete the restoration and the museum in time for the 

200 th anniversary of Brunel’s birth. 

The demonstrations of rope making and green wood 

turning on the dock were keeping the children interested. 

A replica of the ‘Matthew’, the ship in which John Cabot 

discovered a ‘newfoundland’, America, in 1497 is berthed 

alongside the dock. 

http://www.heritage.nf.ca/exploration/cabot.html 

Engine Room - SS Great Britain 

Finally she ended her days as sailing ship whilst rounding 

Cape Horn from east to west in 1886. She was dismasted 

and sought refuge in Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands 

where she became a store ship until 1933 and in 1937 

she was beached. 

Passenger Cabin - SS Great 

Britain 

She made 32 voyages around the 

world carrying about 600 passengers 

to Australia and back to Britain. 

Average passage time was 60 days. 

Rope Making Demonstration 

In 1970 the ship was recovered and placed on a pontoon 

for the trip back to Bristol and return to the dock where 

Dockside Steam Train - Bristol Industrial Museum 

The Bristol Industrial Museum is located in a disused 

dockyard warehouse and has interesting displays of the 

industrial history of Bristol. 

http://www.aboutbritain.com/BristolIndustrialMuseum.htm 

Of particular interest were some of the vehicles, early 

caravans, Bristol trucks and cars. There is also a display 

of aircraft engines built in Bristol. 

151

Green Wood Turning 

Demonstration 

The ‘Matthew’ - Bristol 

Parish Church of St John the 

Baptist - Cirencester 

Parish Church of St John the 

Baptist - Cirencester 

The Wanderer, 1883 - Bristol Industrial 

Museum 

Bailey Maestro Caravan, 1955 - Bristol 

Industrial Museum 

Bristol Touring Car, 1906 - Bristol Industrial 

Museum 

152

Roman artefacts from Corinium, the second largest 

town in Roman Britain. 

Even further behind schedule, I head off towards 

Oxford. I am avoiding motorways and the traffic is 

light so I have pleasant run through the countryside 

in the sunshine. 

I 

Roman Garden – Corinium Museum - 

Cirencester 

Outside by the docks are old port vessels and a 

dockside steam train that takes passengers for a 

short ride along the dock. 

The Wanderer was the first purpose built holiday 

caravan. 

Sue and I had visited Cirencester several times, 

particularly the historic Parish Church of St John 

the Baptist. First built in the 12 th C the church was 

modified and extended several times, the last 

being about 1500. 

However the reason for visiting this time is to see 

the ‘new’ Corinium Museum. There has been a 

Corinium Museum for many years with displays of 

Roman Mosiac Floor – Corinium Museum - 

Cirencester 

http://www.cotswold.gov.uk/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=1 

569 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cirencester 

Two years work and 5,000,000 pounds has 

transformed the museum into a passage through 

time from the Iron Age to the English Civil War in 

the history of Corinium, now Cirencester. Mosiacs 

from the floors of Roman villas are a feature of the 

displays. Many of these are from sites outside the 

town. After the Romans the town continued to be 

important a subsequent building covered or 

destroyed the Roman town and much of it may 

never be excavated. 

Main Street - Cirencester 

t is about 16:30 when I arrive at Jennie and 

Peter’s. The children are all away at University. 

We have a quiet, very pleasant evening and I have 

a chance to repack the bags for London. Tomorrow 

I will leave early to return the car and hope there 

are no traffic delays. 

Monday 30 May 2005 - Oxford to London Day 43 

It is a bright, sunny morning. After a 

quick breakfast I say farewell to 

Jennie and at 07:00 I'm on the main 

road to London. There is very little 

traffic, even in London, and I arrive at 

the Hertz depot in Edgware Road before 08:30. 

After I check in the car I hail a taxi to take me to the 

Travel Inn at County Hall. It is too early to check in so I 

leave my luggage a head across the Hungerford Bridge 

towards Leicester Square to check out the theatres. Most 

of the shows have been running for a long time and there 

isn't much to chose from. 

153

At 11:00 it is about time to make my way to Joan and 

Harry Gorge's in Bromley South for lunch. 

By now the brilliant morning has disappeared and it is 

raining occasionally. When I get to Bromley there is 

lightning to the south and very light rain. There is no sign 

of a bus so I set off for the 15minute walk. Luckily, the 

rains hold off, and arrive at 12.00 still dry. 

Joan has prepared a very nice lunch and I have a 

pleasant afternoon chatting about old times. 

During lunch it rained heavily, but when it was time to 

leave the rain had cleared away and after I walked back 

to the railway station I spent some time looking at the 

market in the High Street before catching the train back 

to London. 

Cornford Close - Bromley 

Joan and Harry Gorge 

Tuesday 31 May 2005 - London Day 44 

Last day. 

Imperial War Museum 

German One Man Submarine - Imperial War 

Museum 

‘Tamzine’, Smallest boat at the evacuation 

of Dunkirk - Imperial War Museum 

154

German Mast Periscope - Spot 

the muffin - Imperial War 

Museum 

German Mast Periscope - Imperial 

War Museum 

Egyptian Display – British Museum 

First stop is the Imperial War Museum, a short 

walk from the hotel. I had been before and had 

heard that the displays had changed significantly. I 

walked into the main hall and thought I had been 

mislead. There seemed to be the same guns, 

planes and tanks in the same places. 

http://london.iwm.org.uk/server.php?show=nav.00b 

Nereid Monument – British 

Museum 

Monty’s Tank, Battle of El Alamein 

This part of the museum hasn’t changed much but 

the displays about each conflict since WWI been 

modernised. The origins of each were provided 

and the events equipment and life at war and at 

home were well displayed. 

Sopwith Camel 2F1 - Imperial War Museum 

155

galleries have been renovated, the reading room 

has been refurbished and its exterior has been 

reclad in stone that, in time, will match the rest of 

the building. A glass roof has been built over the 

whole courtyard. 

than 130 garden paths, creating backyard 

paradises in just days and teaching viewers along 

the way about different ‘plant practices’ from 

around the world. 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/ 

British Supermarine Spitfire Mark 1A - 


There were large numbers of family and school 

groups. The school children were busily finding 

answers to the question sheet they each had. 

Marble Statues from the Parthenon – British 

Museum 

156 

North American P51D Mustang - Imperial 

War Museum 

After nearly two hours I headed of to the 

underground to the river to the British Museum. I 

had been there the first time I was in London. I 

recall it as having many things on display in rather 

dowdy display cases. That has all changed. The 

Reading Room – British Museum 

These days entry is free and there were people 

everywhere. 

The collections are awesome. There are many 

good museums, but few can compete with the 

British Museum for size, diversity and quality of the 

collections. 

Unlike many museums the featured exhibitions 

were free. 

Ground Force – African Garden 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/africagarden/in 

dex2.html 

Over the years the BBC’s Ground Force 

programme has led millions of fans down more 

Courtyard and Glass Roof – British Museum 

The Africa Garden is the team’s final creation 

together. Over the summer, visitors will be able 

to explore the Museum and the garden, finding 

connections between the plants and the cultures 

they come from. The garden includes flora from

three African climate zones - desert, tropical and 

temperate - informed by Ground Force’s work in 

Ethiopia, Morocco and their garden for Nelson 

Mandela in South Africa. It also features 

contemporary sculptures by African artists - from 

Mozambique to Ghana - including work specially 

commissioned by Ground Force. 

Enlightenment 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/enlightenment/ 

'Enlightenment' is a rich new exhibition using 

thousands of objects from the Museum's collection 

to show how people understood their world in the 

Age of Enlightenment. Their view was different 

from ours, but our knowledge has been built on the 

foundations they laid. 

nation shortly after his death in 1820. The books 

were transferred to the new British Library in 1998, 

and the room has now been restored to its original 

glory as one of London's finest and most beautiful 

neo-Classical interiors 

Chinese Display – British Museum 

Ground Force African Garden – British 

Museum 

The King’s Library – Enlightenment – British 

Museum 

The new display explores a period that saw the 

development of a systematic approach to the way 

that people understood the world of nature and 

human achievement, a period that saw the 

founding of the British Museum itself. The new 

gallery also provides an introduction to the 

Museum and its collections, and highlights the way 

that our understanding of much of the natural and 

human world has changed. 

It is housed in the room of the former King's 

Library, 'the noblest room in London'. The King's 

Library was named after King George III and was 

built to house his library that was given to the 

British Museum 

Ferdinand Columbus: Renaissance 

Collector 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/newsroom/curr 

ent2005/ferdinand.htm 

The print collection of Ferdinand, son of 

Christopher Columbus, is the earliest known to 

historians. The prints themselves were dispersed 

long ago, but an inventory preserved in Seville 

describes 3200 engravings, woodcuts and maps. 

The exhibition presents a partial reconstruction of 

this collection with around 150 prints by all the 

most important Renaissance printmakers. Included 

are works from Italy by Antonio Polllaiuolo, 

Marcantonio Raimondi and Giovanni Battista 

Palumba; from Germany by Albrecht Dürer, Albrect 

Altdorfer, Hans Baldung and Hans Weiditz; from 

the low countries by Lucas van Leyden and Jost de 

Negker. Many are large format prints such as 

157

maps that have rarely been exhibited. A highlight 

of the exhibition is a stencil coloured genealogical 

tree of the House of Charles V by Robert Peril that 

is 7.3 metres long. 

I have a ticket to see ‘The Shaughraun’ at the 

Albery Theatre in St Martin’s Lane tonight. 

The play Turned out to be a hilarious Irish 

melodrama. 

Wednesday 01/Friday 03 May 2005 - London – New York – Los Angeles - Melbourne Day 45 / 47 

A long trip without incident. 

158

Web References - Scandinavia 

Akershus Fortress 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akershus_Fortress 

Alesund 

http://www.eurotravelling.net/norway/alesund/alesund_history.htm 

http://www.visitalesund.com/Default.asp?bhcp=1 

Amalienborg Museum 

http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/amalienborg_2.asp?count 

ryID=2 

Bergen 

http://www.uib.no/guide/html/history.html 

Bornholm History 

http://www.archipelago.nu/SKARGARD/ENGELSKA/DENMARK/bornholm_hi 

story.htm 

http://www.europe-today.com/denmark/bornholm2.html#Roenne 

http://www.sacredsites.com/europe/denmark/bornholm.htm 

Children of the Earth Monument 

http://www.barnavjorden.org/eng/welcome.htm 

Christian R Skrein 

http://www.schaden.com/book/SkrChrSna03252.html 

Christiansborg 

http://www.ses.dk/147000c 

http://kongehuset.dk/artikel.php?dogtag=k_en_col_cha 

Constitution Day 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constitution_of_Norway 

http://odin.dep.no/odin/english/norway/history/032091-991290/dok-bn.html 

Denmark’s Railway Museum 

http://www.jernbanemuseum.dk/GB/index_gb.html 

Finse 

http://www.finse1222.no/engindex.htm 

Flåm railway 


Fram Museum 

http://www.fram.museum.no/en/ 

http://college.hmco.com/history/readerscomp/ships/html/sh_038400_gjoa.htm 

Gjesværstappan 

http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/sites/?action=SitHTMDetails.asp&sid=3148& 

m=0 

Glacier Museum 


Hans Christian Andersen 

http://www.andersen.sdu.dk/index_e.html 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Christian_Andersen 

Hanseatic League 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanseatic_League 

http://www.infoplease.com/ce6/history/A0822651.html 

Harstad 

http://www.eurotravelling.net/norway/harstad/harstad_history.htm 

Honningsvåg 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honningsv%C3%A5g 

http://www.visitnorway.com/templates/NTRarticle.aspx?id=41718 

Hurtigruten 

http://www.hurtigruten.com/index.asp 

http://www.boprod.se/norge/hurtigruten_eng.html 

Jonathan Lasker 

http://www.speronewestwater.com/cgi-bin/iowa/artists/record.html?record=5 

http://www.speronewestwater.com/cgibin/iowa/artists/related.html?record=5&info=works 

159

Kalmar 

http://www.travelershub.com/outbound/europe/kalmar.html 

http://www.kalmar.se 

Kirkenes 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirkenes 

http://www.scantours.com/kirkenes_and_surroundings.htm 

Kristiansund 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kristiansund 

http://www.eurotravelling.net/norway/kristiansund/kristiansund_history.htm 

Kulturhistorisk Museum 

http://www.khm.uio.no/english/hist_museum/index.shtml 

Kunstindustimuseet 

http://www.kunstindustrimuseet.dk/Default.asp?ID=1210 

Molde 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molde 

Nasjonalgalleriet (The National Gallery) 

http://www.nationalmuseum.no/ 

Nordkapp 

http://www.northcape.no/index.html 

http://www.northcape.no/pages/page.php?pageid=44 

Norsk Folkemuseum 

http://www.norskfolke.museum.no/ 

Norway History 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/norway/index.htm 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/norway/history.htm 


Norwegian Glacier Museum 

http://www.bre.museum.no/index_engelsk.html?13,14 

Odense 

http://www.odense.dk/English.aspx 

Oslo 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/oslo/index.htm 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/oslo/attractions.htm 

Polaria - an Arctic experience! 

http://www.polaria.no/en/index.php 

Raftsundet - Trollfjorden 

http://gonorway.no/index3.html (search for Raftsundet) 

http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?ID=157732 

Rosenberg Slot 

http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/frontpage_2.asp?countryI 

D=2 

Roskilde 

http://www.visitroskilde.com/historieuk.htm 

Rundetaarn 

http://www.rundetaarn.dk/engelsk/frames.htm 

Saltstraumen 

http://home.c2i.net/rune.dahl/saltstraumen2.html 

Sami People 

http://www.itv.se/boreale/samieng.htm 

Sweden – History 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/sweden/ 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/sweden/history.htm 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/sweden/attractions.htm 

http://www.sweden.se/templates/cs/BasicFactsheet____3116.aspx 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parliament_of_Sweden 

Sognefjorden 

http://www.sognefjord.no/ 

Nordkapp 


160

Stockholm 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/stockholm/ 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/stockholm/history.htm 

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/stockholm/attractions.htm 

National Museum 

http://www.nationalmuseum.se/Default____2705.aspx 

Historiska Museet 

http://www.historiska.se/info/english.html 

Nordiska Museet 

http://www.nordiskamuseet.se/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordiska_museet 

Armémuseum 

http://www.armemuseum.org/uk/frameuk.htm 

Stockholm Cathedral 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stockholm_Cathedral 

Vasa Museum 

http://www.vasamuseet.se/Vasamuseet/Om/Museet.aspx?lang=en 

History of the Vasa 

http://www.vasamuseet.se/Vasamuseet/Om/Skeppet.aspx?lang=en 

Nobel Museum 

http://nobelprize.org/nobel/nobelmuseum/ 

Tromsø – History 

http://www.world66.com/europe/norway/tromso/history 

http://destinasjontromso.no/english/useful_info.html 

http://www.destinasjontromso.no/english/useful_info_articles_the_arctic_cath 

edr.html 

Web References – England and Scotland 

Alnwick Garden and Castle 

http://www.alnwickcastle.com/ 

http://www.alnwickgarden.com/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alnwick_Garden 

Bristol Industrial Museum 

http://www.aboutbritain.com/BristolIndustrialMuseum.htm 

Polaria 

http://www.polaria.no/en/ 

Tivoli Gardens 

http://www.tivoli.dk/composite-297.htm 

Trondenes Church 

http://www.tdm.no/default.asp?cmd=400&Lang=E 

Trondheim 

http://www.stud.ntnu.no/~ragnvald/trondheim/historie-eng.html 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trondheim 


Nidaros Cathedral 

http://www.nidarosdomen.no/english/nidaroscathedral/ 

Ringve Music Museum 

http://www.ringve.com/english/start.html 

Munkholmen 


Vadso 

http://www.varanger.com/region.php?lang=eng&rid=2 

http://www.visitnorway.com/templates/NTRarticle.aspx?id=41790 

Viking Ship Museum – Oslo 

http://www.khm.uio.no/english/viking_ship_museum/index.shtml 

British Museum 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/ 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/africagarden/index2.html 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/enlightenment/ 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/newsroom/current2005/ferdinand.htm 

Castle Garth 

http://museums.ncl.ac.uk/keep/index.htm 

161

Cheltenham 

http://www.cheltweb.co.uk/history.htm 

Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art 

http://www.balticmill.com/html/index.html 

Corinium Museum - Cirencester 

http://www.cotswold.gov.uk/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=1569 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cirencester 

Discovery Museum 

http://www.twmuseums.org.uk/discovery/ 

http://www.twmuseums.org.uk/discovery/turbinia.php 

Dundee Repertory Theatre 

http://www.dundeereptheatre.co.uk/ 

Forest of Dean 

http://www.fweb.org.uk/dean/deanhist/ 

Grey’s Monument 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Grey,_2nd_Earl_Grey 


http://london.iwm.org.uk/server.php?show=nav.00b 

Ironbridge Gorge Museums 

http://www.ironbridge.org.uk/ 

http://www.ironbridge.info/history/ 

http://www.telford.gov.uk/FreeTime/LocalHistory/IronbridgeWorldHeritageSite 

.htm 

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/society_culture/industrialisation/iron_bridge_06.s 

html 

John Cabot 

http://www.heritage.nf.ca/exploration/cabot.html 

Kelham Island Museum and Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet 

http://www.simt.co.uk/home.html 

Lewis Chessmen 

http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk/compass/ixbin/goto?id=OBJ566 

McManus Gallery 

http://www.scottisharts.org.uk/1/artsinscotland/visualarts/features/archive/ven 

uemcmanusgalleries.aspx 

Millennium Bridge across the Tyne 

http://www.gateshead.gov.uk/bridge/bridged.htm 

The Sage Gateshead 

http://www.thesagegateshead.org/ 

Segedunum 

http://www.segedunum.com/ 

SS Great Britain Museum 

http://www.24hourmuseum.org.uk/museum_gfx_en/SW000127.html 

http://www.nhsc.org.uk/index.cfm/event/getVessel/vref/76 

http://www.seabritain2005.com/server.php?show=ConWebDoc.701 

Swan Hunter Shipyard 

http://www.swanhunter.com/ 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swan_Hunter 

Trevithick steam railway locomotive 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Trevithick 

Verdant Mills Textile Heritage Museum 

http://www.theheritagetrail.co.uk/industrial/verdant_works.htm 

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/dundee/verdantworks/ 

162

Appendix 

Web Extracts 

Bornholm 



Conflicts in the Barents Region 

http://www.barentsinfo.org/?deptid=15873 

Flåm railway 




Hurtigruten 

http://www.boprod.se/norge/hurtigruten_eng.html 

Nordkapp 




Bergen – History 


Christiansborg Palace 

http://www.ses.dk/15e000c 

Rosenborg Castle 

http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/omslottet_2.asp?countryI 

D=2 



ryID=2 



Trondheim the History 


The history of Norway 


163

Bornholm 


When visiting Bornholm you will arrive at the islands capital Rønne. 

Rønne is not a big city, on the contrary, you will 

find winding streets and splendidly measured 

houses in the old part of town. 

In Storegade you can see the spot where the 

Swedish colonel Prinzenskjöld was killed in 

1658 by Bornholm's liberation heroes, an event which changed the island's 

history. At other locations are memorials of the Russian bombing in 1945. 

Market days are held on the town's square every wednesday. 

Bornholm's steep rocky coast must be 

experienced from the sea. 

Starting in Gudhjem, the passenger boat 

THOR makes numerous daily sailings 

past the beautiful groups of rocks such as 

the Wet Oven, Candle Rock, Black 

Hollow on its way to Helligdomsklipperne (Sanctuary Rocks). Motorboats 

LINDA, FREM and Søfryd sail from Hammer Harbour close along the rocks 

beneath the Hammershus ruins, past the Lion Heads and into the 70-meter 

deep Wet Oven. Experienced guides tell about the sights-of interest. 

Bornholm has also much to offer the cruise passengers, in a couple of hours 

it is possible to get a good impression of Bornholm. Rønnes harbour's new 

cruise ship wharf with a length of 240 m and a minimum water depth of 8 m, 

and not to mention the harbour's new passenger service building, now 

enables the harbour to give a proper welcome to the island's cruise ship 

guests. 

Renting a car and experiencing Bornholm on one's own is also a good idea. 

Bornholm's limited size provides tourists with the possibility of visiting 

battering beaches along the the southern coast, the rock grouping along the 

northern coast and much more in the course of just a few hours. 

Another exciting way to experience Bornholm is from the air. At Rønne 

airport, there are sightseeing flights of different length during all daylight 

hours. 

Hasle: Within a radius of a few kilometres visitors can 

experience on of Bornholm's best bathing beaches, wander in 

the large Hasle woods with its unique history, or enjoy the 

idyllic fishing hamlets along the coast. 

The Hasle district is not only for visitors seeking the peace and calm of 

nature, but also for people interested in atmosphere and culture. The first 

time that the Hasle District is mentioned in historical records is in 1149. Many 

historic, cultural monuments are found throughout the area. 

Tourism of Bornholm started on North Bornholm around the turn of the 

century when especially German tourists used Bornholm as a holiday 

destination until World War I. The names and architecture of many hotels and 

pensions are reminders of that period of history. 

North Bornholm seems like a large natural reserve. Vang, Finne Valley, the 

Hammershus Ruin, the Hammer, Opal Lake, Hammer Lake and a great 

number of sights are connected by innumerable crisscrossing nature paths. 

The rocky coast from Sandvig to Tejn offers many nature experiences, and 

you will find many coves and sherries, small salt meadows and bathing 

beaches. In Sandkås, you can experience one of the island's most distinctive 

and beautiful rift valleys. A footpath leads past high rocky walls and fallen 

boulders through beautiful wildlife. A stream babbles at the bottom of the rift 

valley. The towns are an experience in past and present. Tejn Harbour is 

Bornholm's largest fishing hamlet. A well-kept post mill is found in the middle 

of the fishing hamlet. 

Sandvig is a small community which down through 

history has been strongly influenced by nearby 

Hammershus and the quarry industry of Bornholm. 

Today, the town consists of many half-timbered houses 

164

and a charming harbour with fishing hamlet enchantment and an active tourist 

milieu. Sandvig's old quarry-worker houses are now on the historic register. 

The ramparts in Sandvig date from the time of the Lübeckians and are part of 

the defence system. "The Old Town hall", located by the ramparts, is the 

town's oldest building. For a beautiful outdoor experience, follow the 

lighthouse path all the way around the Hammer. From the former rescue 

path, help was provided to ships in distress; many seafarers have been 

brought safely to land. 

Gudhjem-Melsted (pop 850) is a fishing 

hamlet with 3 small harbours. The 

hamlet lies on a granite slope with 

picturesque houses and street scenes. 

In summer, its narrow, steep streets are 

teeming with tourists. The view from Bokul out over the hamlet's red roofs is 

unique, as is the walk down the coastal path to Salene Bay and to Melsted 

Beach. 

Throughout this entire century, artists and artisans have been linked to 

Gudhjem and have found their inspiration in the extraordinary light, the 

hamlet atmosphere and the scenic beauty. 

Gudhjem Museum, galleries, Gudhjem Glasrøgeri at the harbour, Baltic Sea 

Glass in Saltuna, and the Bornholm Art Museum at Helligdommen are all a 

part of why the Gudhjem area is the centre of art and handicraft on Bornholm. 

Denmark's smallest marked town - population 1,200 - can boast of more 

hours of sunshine than anywhere else in the country. 

Svaneke is always teeming with activity. During the 

summer you can experience this idyllic town at a peaceful 

gait from a horse drawn streetcar. Every Saturday 

morning - in July and August Friday too, are market days 

in Svaneke. Music, performances, and catchpenny shows 

combined with freshly-baked "apple slice" cakes and freshly brewed hot 

coffee are all part of the experience. 

Nexø - The fishing industry town: 

The town of Nexø has one of Bornholm's best bathing beaches as its nearest 

neighbor. Nexø`s close bond to the sea make the town a fishing centre for the 

entire Baltic Sea where fishing mainly concentrates on cod, salmon and 

herring. Therefore, the town arms symbolize the main industries of fishing 

and shipping. The population of Nexø is around 4,000 persons, and the 

population of the entire municipality is around 9,000 persons. 

A large number of convenience shops and speciality shops make Nexø an 

attractive town of commerce where you can buy almost anything. During the 

last days of the war, both Rønne and Nexø were heavily damaged by 

bombardments. Numerous traces of this are still visible, e.g. the so-called 

Swedish Wooden Houses donated to Bornholm by the Swedish government - 

a splendid assistance in rebuilding the town. The town also contains the 

childhood home of author Martin 

Andersen Nexø in FerskesøstrÆde 36. 

Today it is fixed up with memorial rooms 

for the world-renowned author whose 

works include "Pelle the Conqueror". 

The movie based on the book received 

an Oscar in 1989 for best foreign film. 

Åkirkeby -The flower town: At the heart 

of the island lies Åkirkeby. On the square there are ample opportunities to 

relax and enjoy the profusely decorated flower town. You'll find plenty of room 

to eat you box lunch or enjoy a cup of coffee from the patisserie, a glass of 

draught beer or a good Danish hot-dog. 

Åkirkeby has the largest church on the island and is famous for its baptist 

font. From the lookout tower on Rytterknægten (162m) in Almindingen, the 

third largest forest in Denmark, you can experience how rocks, forest and 

beach all meet in Åkirkeby Township. 

165

Templar churches – Bornholm Island 


Templar church of Osterlars, Bornholm Island 

Located 40 kilometers southeast of the southern tip of Sweden but territorially 

a part of Denmark, the island of Bornholm is one of the oldest visible rocks in 

the world. Formed through volcanic activity more than 1700 million years ago, 

the small granite island has an area of approximately 600 square kilometers 

(230 square miles). Its rolling hills are covered with a patchwork of farms, 

pastures and beautiful forests, the coasts are graced by sandy beaches and 

rocky cliffs and its traditional villages are home to some of the friendliest 

people in Europe. 

Archaeological excavation reveals the island to have been settled since at 

least 3600 BC, when numerous dolmens and Neolithic mounds began to be 

constructed. A majority of the mounds show evidence of having been used for 

burials while others, lacking burial remains, indicate possible astronomical 

and ceremonial use. Scattered here and there across the island are many 

boulders and flat, glacier-scoured rock surfaces that are engraved with 

mysterious symbols and geometric forms, small cup-shaped depressions, 

and carvings of ships. Conventional archaeological theory, unable to date the 

engravings or explain their function, attributes them to Bronze Age inhabitants 

(1800-500 BC). These rock engravings may, however, date from a far earlier 

age and may have functioned as sea and star maps for ancient mariners. 

In medieval times, the island was known as Burgunderland or 

Burgunderholm, from which the present name derives (holm is an old Danish 

word for island). During the transition to Christianity between 1050 and 1150 

AD, around 40 runic stones were erected around the island and today most of 

these are found in the vicinity of churches and old bridges where they have 

often been reused as building materials. 

Clearly the most famous of the ancient constructions of Bornholm Island are 

its medieval round churches. The current hypothesis among historians is that 

these structures were not intended solely for religious practices but that they 

also had a defensive function. Given their assumed construction period in the 

12 th century, this makes seems to make sense as the Baltic region was then 

subjected to near continuous raids by Slavonic pirates from the island of 

Rugen, off the German coast. Originally the four churches had flat roofs so 

that they could be defended from any angle, and the cone-shaped roofs were 

not added until several centuries later. Upon deeper consideration however, 

the idea that the churches were used for defensive purposes does not make 

much sense when one considers the extremely limited interior space within 

the churches. Each of the four round churches, except for Nyker, have three 

floors but the lower floor has limited space because of the enormous central 

pillar and the upper two floors are far too small and cramped to accommodate 

more than a few dozen people. Additionally, if places of refuge were needed 

during times of attack, it would have been far more logical for the population 

to have gathered within the fortresses of Gamleborg and Lilleborg which were 

vastly more secure and defensible during the time of the supposed pirate 

raids. 

There are still more mysteries to these four round churches that cannot be 

explained by the conventional historical interpretation. What was the purpose 

of the round shape and from where did it architecturally originate? While there 

are scores of other churches dating from the same period of time throughout 

Denmark and other parts of Scandinavia, there are no other churches with 

the distinctive roundness of the Bornholm buildings. Equally mysterious is the 

location of the four round churches relative to one another, to the geography 

of Bornholm and to the nearby islet of Christianso (12.5 miles northeast of 

Bornholm). In other words, who really built these churches and for what 

purpose? 

166

To find answers to these questions two researchers looked beyond the 

conventional historical interpretation and were repeatedly led to the medieval 

religious order of the Knights Templar. Writing in their book, The Templars' 

Secret Island, Erling Haagensen and Henry Lincoln present a great deal of 

evidence linking the four round churches of Bornholm with the controversial 

and much misunderstood religious brotherhood of the Templars. According to 

these authors the location of the four round churches of Osterlars, Nylars, 

Olsker and Nyker, indicates a complex but very beautiful pattern of landscape 

geometry incorporating three, four, five, six and seven sided figures. In 

addition, the round churches reveal the key to further landscape geometry, 

which is linked to the other medieval churches on Bornholm and nearby 

Christianso, and is also mirrored in the extraordinary landscape geometry of 

Rennes le Chateau in southern France. 

more detail (for example the upper windows in the Osterlars church were 

positioned to be in alignment with the sunrises of the winter and summer 

solstices). Additionally, ancient pagan symbols encoded in carvings and 

frescos found in the four round churches and also at Poulsker church in south 

Bornholm need to be examined with a broader knowledge than that of the 

conventional historical approach. 

Historically it is known that the original nine founders of the Templars spent 

nine years secretly excavating hidden passages beneath the Temple of 

Solomon on Mount Zion in Jerusalem, after which they unexplainably became 

immensely wealthy. What did these nine Templar knights find, great wealth, 

objects of mysterious power, texts of secret esoteric teachings or all these 

things? What was the connection between the Templar knights and the 

explosively rapid development of the Cistercian monastic order that has so 

many fascinating connections with early Christianity in Scandinavia and 

Bornholm? And, if vast treasures were discovered beneath the Solomon's 

Temple, where was those treasures then hidden away? Geo-radar surveys 

conducted at the Osterlars church on Bornholm and the church of Rennes le 

Chateau have revealed what seem to be previously unknown crypts beneath 

the church floors. Did the Templars store their treasures at these sites? 

Haagensen and Lincoln have done pioneering work in the analysis of 

Bornholm's sacred geography but the authors believe that deeper and more 

esoteric secrets remain to be discovered. The celestial alignments of the 

island's Neolithic constructions and the round churches need to be studied in 

Templar church of Olsker, Bornholm Island 

167

Conflicts in the Barents Region 

http://www.barentsinfo.org/?deptid=15873 

By Lars Gyllenhaal 

In the early 21 st century the Barents Euro-Arctic Region may be viewed as 

one of the most peaceful on the planet. However, the region has not been 

excluded from violent struggle, and has even seen full-scale modern warfare. 

There are still plenty of traces from the Second World War in the frontier 

areas. The following summary will give you an idea of the major conflicts that 

have plagued the Barents Region during the second millennium. See also 

the Conflict Histography in the Barents region. 

COLONISATION AND ETHNICAL STRUGGLE 

Until the 13 th century the presence of nation states within the region was 

negligible. This was uncharted territory totally without borders, taxation, 

conscription and other traits of nation states. Besides the indigenous, mostly 

nomadic, peoples of the region only small groups of hunters and fishermen 

from the Nordic countries and Novgorod lived within the region. 

The indigenous peoples, such as the Sami and the Nenets, were only very 

gradually subjugated and thus there have been few "Indian Wars" within the 

region. However, eruptions of violence against ethnical groups and resistance 

has occurred, as recent research shows. 

The struggle of the indigenous peoples of the region – for territory and rights - 

goes on, but now by non-violent means and with the support of multinational 

bodies such as the United Nations. 

THE "EXPEDITION WARS" 

During the 14 th and 16 th centuries military expeditions were sent from Karelia 

to Norway and vice-versa in attempts to dominate the region. It had become 

common knowledge that it was rich with fur, silver and fish. Both these 

military operations and the following ones, until 1918, were really small 

projects - as the military units of the time lacked the numbers, tools and 

provisions for prolonged warfare. Large-scale ground warfare in the Arctic 

was not yet technologically feasible. 

In the late 16 th century several Swedish raids were launched against northern 

Karelia and the Kola Peninsula. These territories were not fully integrated into 

the Russian sphere of control and their defences were weak. Sweden 

attempted to occupy them to fully control the trade between Russia and 

Western Europe. This aggressive policy was thwarted not least by the 

establishment in 1584 of the Russian port and town of Archangel, i.e. today’s 

city of Arkhangelsk, by the estuary of the river Dvina. 

In 1854-55 the British Royal Navy attacked the northern coast of the Kola 

Peninsula and destroyed the undefended town of Kola. These actions were a 

consequence of the distant Crimean War. 

WWI AND THE INTERVENTION IN NORTHERN RUSSIA 

In the late 19 th and early 20 th century there was a wide-spread fear of Russia 

in Sweden. Large sections of the public and authorities, not least the military, 

were convinced that Tsarist Russia wanted to invade North Scandinavia to 

secure several ice-free ports to the Atlantic. A huge armament programme 

was set in motion and a lasting result is the fortress of Boden, "The Gibraltar 

of the North". 

When World War One broke out in 1914 Russia did not, however, even 

attempt to invade Scandinavia. Instead Britain was allowed by Norway to 

supply Russia with vital goods via Arctic Norwegian ports. German sabotage 

in the Tornio valley in 1916-17 against these supply lines was largely 

unsuccessful. 

Alas, no support from Britain could save the Russian Empire from its ultimate 

fate. In 1917 the inefficient, corrupt and war-weakened empire fell to pieces 

almost by itself. In 1918 British, US and French troops (with small contingents 

of other nationalities, even some Swedish volunteers) half-heartedly 

intervened in the Russian Civil War by occupying Murmansk and 

Arkhangelsk. After the collapse of Tsarist Russia, the Western Powers 

decided that they had to stop the millions of tons of war materiel stored in 

North Russia from falling into German hands. Some leaders of the Western 

Powers had a hidden agenda and also wished to overthrow the Russian 

communists, or Bolsheviks, as they were known at the time. 

Initially the western expeditionary forces in North Russia received support 

from the local "red", then "white" (!) forces. But the latter, in the end, lost their 

public support and thus the western troops were forced to leave the region in 

late 1919 after having seen a lot of waiting but also some intense battles with 

168

all the latest tools of war including tanks and aircraft. As from 1920 the 

Russian parts of the Barents Region were fully in the control of the Russian 

Bolsheviks under Lenin. 

In the Soviet Union, and also in today’s Russia, the occupation of North 

Russia in 1918-19 by western forces is a well-known fact and has naturally 

affected the way western policies – and westerners - are viewed. 

The following website re. the strange and little-known (in the west) 

intervention of 1918-19 can be recommended: 

http://www.umich.edu/~bhl/bhl/mhchome/polarb.htm. 

As a consequence of the WWI fighting in Central Europe tens of thousands of 

German and Austro-Hungarian prisoners-of-war were brought to Karelia and 

ordered to construct the railway to Murmansk, which they accomplish in 

record time. Murmansk, due to the proximity of the Gulf Stream, was 

accessible for ships all year round. 

WORLD WAR TWO 

Both Hitler and Stalin suffered their first severe military set-backs in the 

Barents Region but also accomplished amazing feats in the history of warfare 

in this region. 

The reasons for the Soviet Union’s invasion of Finland on the 30 th of 

November 1939 are still being debated but what is clear is that at least from 

this date Stalin wished to install a puppet government in Helsinki. As a result 

of this war, the "Winter War", the Arctic Finnish border town of Salla was lost 

to the Red Army. The liberation of Salla thus became one of the aims of the 

Finnish government in 1941. The Winter War also greatly affected Nordic 

public opinion and almost 8 000 Swedes and 700 Norwegian volunteers 

arrived in North Finland in the winter of 1939-40. More information on them 

and the Winter War can be found here (in Swedish and English): 

http://www.svenskafrivilliga.com 

The next major event was the German invasion of Norway on the 9 th of April 

1940. One major goal was to seize the Arctic port of Narvik from which 

Germany received a major part of its vital Swedish iron ore. Although 

Norwegian and Allied troops successfully drove the German mountain 

rangers (mostly from the former state of Austria) up against the Swedish 

frontier they were stopped from defeating the German contingent by the Allied 

pull-out from Norway, caused by the fall of France. The following website on 

these events can be recommended (in English and Norwegian): 

http://www.nuav.net 

One of the major goals of Hitler’s invasion of the Soviet Union on 22 June 

1941 was to seize Murmansk and thus North Russia. But Hitler’s "victors of 

Narvik" were only able to advance a few kilometres beyond Finnish Petsamo 

before hitting a wall of stiff resistance. Here the Red Army held the line and 

the troop dispositions by the Barents Sea did not change much in three long 

years. This was the first major German set-back on the battlefields of WWII. 

The successful Soviet defenders of Murmansk enabled the ports of 

Murmansk and Arkhangelsk to operate at their full capacities during all the 

war. The following website describes the convoys of Allied weapons and 

goods that sailed to these ports: 

http://www.naval-history.net/WW2CampaignsRussianConvoys.htm 

Hitler decided that a railway should be built along the Norwegian coastline all 

the way to Kirkenes by the Finnish border (now Russian border). It would rival 

the railway from Central Russia to Murmansk. As the case had been with this 

line Hitler’s Arctic railway project would be realised by prisoners-of-war 

(POWs). Almost 90 000 Soviets POWs were brought to Norway, largely for 

the sake of this idea. Thousands of them perished in the attempt to construct 

the line, part of which was also completed and is today in use – the line from 

Mo to Bodø. The "Blood Road Museum" in Rognan has the following relevant 

website (in Norwegian, English and German): 

http://www.museumsnett.no/saltdalmuseum/Saltdal%20museum/Blodveimus 

eet/presentasjon.html 

After Finland had been forced to change sides in the war in September 1944 

it was possible for the Red Army in the Arctic to break out and launch a 

massive offensive with over 130 000 men that steam-rolled from Finnish 

Petsamo to Norwegian Kirkenes. This gigantic military operation was 

launched on the 7 th of October 1944 and was successfully completed two 

weeks later. The German troops in Finland and Arctic Norway were thus 

forced to attempt one of the most difficult retreats in the history of mankind. 

Against all logistical and climatic odds they accomplished this, and largely 

transferred the 200 000 German troops in the Arctic to South Norway and 

169

Central Europe. More information about the Arctic fighting of 1944-45 and 

what remains of it today, in the open, can be found here: 

http://www.arcticwar.com 

As a result of the military operations in 1944 Kirkenes was liberated by the 

Red Army. A bronze statue of a Soviet liberator still stands in central Kirkenes 

and the bright memories of the Soviets in Arctic Norway will burn brightly still 

for many years to come. Petsamo and Salla were incorporated into the Soviet 

Union. Petsamo is since 1944 again called Pechenga (a name from the times 

of the Russian Empire) and Salla is since that year only a ghost town. The 

Salla you find on modern maps is yesterday’s Märkäjärvi. 

On their retreat from Finnish Lapland and north-eastern Norway the Germans 

burnt down most settlements and destroyed a large number of fishing vessels 

and other means of survival. This made Arctic Finland and Norway among 

the least hospitable places in Europe. The story of the harsh years of 

destruction and reconstruction is told by the Norwegian museum of 

Reconstruction in Hammerfest, which has the following website: 

http://www.museumsnett.no/gjenreisningsmuseet/ 

THE COLD WAR 

Having twice seen North Russia invaded by western troops in the 20 th century 

the Soviet government decided to make the Kola Peninsula into an 

impregnable fortress during the last 20 th century conflict in the Arctic: the Cold 

War. The routes of aircraft, submarines and ballistic missiles also made Kola 

and Arctic Norway into a meeting-point of global significance. The amount of 

conventional and nuclear weapons based/stored here was truly staggering – 

the nuclear piles were second to none - and the environmental consequences 

of the Cold War will be with us for decades if not centuries yet to come. 

170

Flåm railway 

The Flåm Railway 


Welcome to a journey on the Flåm Railway – one of the most beautiful 

railway lines in the world! 

Experience the Flåm Railway – the amazing rail journey between the highmountain 

station at Myrdal on the Bergen Line down to Flåm Station 

innermost in the Aurlandsfjord. 

Flåm Railway 

Flåm Valley 

There are no railway lines of the 

adhesion type anywhere in the world 

steeper than the Flåm Railway. The 

gradient is 55/1000 on almost 80% 

of the line, i.e. a gradient of one in 

eighteen. The twisting tunnels that 

spiral in and out of the mountain are 

manifestations of the most daring 

and skilful engineering in Norwegian 

railway history. 

This exciting stretch of railway line 

attracts tourists from all over the 

world every year, making the Flåm 

Railway one of Norway’s most 

popular as well as spectacular tourist 

attractions. 

Experience some of Norway’s 

wildest and most magnificent 

scenery on the 20 km-long train ride. 

You will see snow-clad peaks, the 

river cutting through deep gorges, 

waterfalls cascading off steep 

mountainsides and mountain farms 

clinging to precipitous slopes. 

At the bottom, you can enjoy the scenic landscape of the Flåm Valley and 

admire the lovely Aurlandfjord, an offshoot of the Sognefjord, which is the 

longest in the world. 

The History of the Flåmsbana 

The Flåm Railway, which passes 

through the beautiful, narrow Flåm 

Valley, is regarded as a masterpiece 

of Norwegian engineering. The only 

thing lacking when the railway line 

between Oslo and Bergen was 

opened in 1909, was a branch line to 

the Sognefjord. In order to assure a 

transport route to the fjord, work was 

begun on the Flåm Railway in 1920. 

It was to take 20 years to complete. 

The most time-consuming work was 

on the tunnels. These were 

excavated manually. Only two of the 

twenty tunnels, which have a total 

length of 6 km, were excavated 

using machines. Every meter of 

tunnel cost the navies a month’s 

hard work. The labor force, 120 

strong at the outset, rapidly 

increased to 220. 

Kjosfossen from Flåm Railway 

The steep mountain sides were a 

major challenge, the solution being 

to build hairpin tunnels in order to 

Flåm Valley from Flåmsbana 

equalize the big differences in 

altitude on the precipitous mountain. The danger of avalanches and rock falls 

also constituted a problem. To avoid these hazardous stretches the line 

crosses the river and valley thrice in the course of the journey, but it does not 

cross the river on bridges. Instead, the river is led through the mountain in 

tunnels underneath the railway line. 

171

The Flåm Railway was opened 

temporarily for steam engines on 1 

August 1940. The newspapers 

reported that the first train 

«honored» the navies by carrying 

freight in the cars. The line was 

opened for passenger traffic not long 

afterwards, with two trains in each 

direction that connected at Myrdal 

with the day trains on the Bergen 

Line. Electrification of the Flåm 

Railway was completed in 1944 

Flåm Harbor 

making it one of the first Norwegian 

railway lines to be electrified. The 

journey took an hour and a quarter as against one hour today. 

Fretheim Hotel, Flåm 

tourist attractions in Norway. 

Traffic estimates carried out in 1908 

and 1915 forecast 22,000 

passengers a year on the line. The 

result soon turned out to be much 

better. A new record of 379,625 

passengers was set in 1994. On the 

other hand, goods traffic on the line 

has been reduced to a minimum. 

The increasing proportion of tourists 

from the whole world has led to the 

Flåm Railway becoming one of the 

most popular as well as spectacular 

Today the Flåm Railway presents a new face to the world - with engines and 

carriages in natural green, new interiors and a unique guide and loudspeaker 

service with information in several languages. The train journey has been 

given a new dimension by extending the platforms and improving the viewing 

points. Our completely new fleet of trains comprises of 5 engines and 12 new 

carriages, thus guaranteeing an unforgettable train ride passing through the 

best scenery in Norway. 

Flåm Railway - Technical information 

Flåm Railway: length 

20,20 km 

Altitude difference 

863,6 m 

Upper station 

865.6 meters above sea level 

Lower station 

2 meters above sea level 

Steepest gradient 1:18 

Stretch > 28 o/oo 

16 km-79,3% 

Minimum bend radius 

130 m 

Track width 

1435 mm 

Voltage 

15.000 V-16 2/3 Hz 

Maximum speed 

40 km/h 

Duration of journey 

60 min. 

Brake systems 5 

Tunnels 20 

Bridges 1 

Water tunnels 4 

Stops 8 

Station Altitude (m) Myrdal Flåm 

Myrdal 866 0.00km 20.20km 

Vatnahalsen 811 1.13 19.07 

Reinunga 767 2.20 18.00 

Kjosfoss 670 4.40 15.80 

Kårdal 557 6.34 13.86 

Blomheller 458 8.40 11.80 

Berekvam 345 10.51 9.69 

Dalsbotn 200 13.90 6.30 

Håreina 48 17.21 2.99 

Lunden 16 18.60 1.60 

Flåm 2 2.20 0.00 

172


Welcome to the Norwegian Glacier 

Museum 

- the glacier centre in Fjærland 


Organization 

http://www.bre.museum.no/orgen.html 

The Norwegian Glacier Museum is a non-profit foundation 

established by the International Glaciological Society, Norwegian 

Mountain Touring Association, Norwegian Water Resources and 

Energy Directorate, Norwegian Polar Institute, Sogn og Fjordane 

Regional College, The University of Bergen and The University of 

Oslo. 

The aim of the Norwegian Glacier Museum is to collect, create and 

disseminate knowledge about snow, ice and glaciers. The interplay 

within the natural environment and between mankind and nature, 

is highlighted through film, interactive models and individual 

experiment with real glacier ice. 

The exhibits deal with 23 themes and show among others the hows 

and whys of glaciers, fjords and landscape, and why glaciers play an 

important part in the search for knowledge about past and future 

climate. From the roof you have a spectacular view of the glaciers 

and the surrounding landscape. 

The museum is designed by the prize winning architect Sverre 

Fehn. 

Arrange your seminar in Fjærland! Our school building contains a 

meeting room for 50 persons. The room has audio-visual remedies. 

Our cooperating hotels are Hotel Mundal in Fjærland and Skei 

Hotell in Jølster. 

A visit to the glacier museum, the glaciers in Fjærland and the The 

norwegian booktown will give the seminar participants an unusual 

experience. 

Please contact us, and we will be happy to help with the planning! 

Exhibition 

A short presentation of the content in the Norwegian Glacier 

Museum: 

http://www.bre.museum.no/utstillen.html 

Ötzi was equipped for hunting. 

The clothing consists of the hides of wild animals. 

Foto: Norsk Bremuseum 

1. Sculpture by Bård 

Breivik. 

2. Making a glacier film. 

Explains how Ivo 

Caprino made the 

Superwide video film. 

The film is shown twice 

an hour, and lasts 18 

minutes. 

3. Use of the glacier. The 

ice saw was used to cut blocks of ice from the glacier. 

The Norwegian Glacier Museum is an authorized national park 

centre, with special information about Jostedalsbreen National Park. 

173

Why is the ice blue? 

Photo: Ole Martin Korsen 

Do your own experiments with 

1.000 year old glacier ice! 

Photo: Bjørn Bergum 

block of ice. 

4. What is a glacier? The snow 

from previous years which 

has not melted away, is slowly 

transformed to a glacier. A 

glacier is ice in movement. 

5. What is a jökulhlaup? A 

jökulhlaup is a sudden and 

rapid draining of a glacierdammed 

lake. The volcanic 

eruption under Vatnajökull, 

Iceland in 1996 caused 

extreme glacier melting and 

major flood damage. 

6. Mammoth. The mammoth 

is the largest mammal ever to 

live in Norway. This 

mammoth tusk from Siberia is 

30.000 years old. 

7. The weather. An automatic 

weather station at the glacier 

(1000 m elevation) reports the 

weather in English. 

8. Why is the ice blue? Ice 

absorbs slightly more of the 

red and yellow light than of 

the blue light, so that more 

blue light passes through a 

10. How much energy can you make? Try to make energy by 

cycling. 

11. Glacier hiking. Photos 

and descriptions of various 

hikes presented by 

computer. A meteogram 

displays a weather forecast 

for Jostedalsbreen. 

30.000 year old mammoth tusk from Siberia. 


Experience the underside of a "glacier". 


12. The glacier tongue. 

Experience the underside of 

a glacier. Study the details. 

Note: Step carefully during 

the first section. 

Under the glacier. 

Explanation of the 

phenomenae inside the 

glacier. 

13. How the fjords were 

formed. How the glaciers 

carved out the fjords. 

14. The glacier river makes 

new land. See how the 

glacier river transports sediments with varying winter and 

summer river flow. New land is formed at the head of the fjord 

15. Why is the fjord green? Sediments from the glacier makes the 

fjord look green. Turn the cylinder upside-down and see how 

sediments are "afloat" in the water. 

16. The ice ages. There have been several ice ages. The map shows 

what was covered by ice during the last glaciation. 

9. Energy from the glacier. How meltwater from the glacier is 

used in hydro-power production. 

174

Glacial meltwater for hydro-power production. 


From the roof there is a spectacular view 

of the glacial landscape. 

Photo: Bernardino Mezzanotte 

17. The glaciers - our best 

climate record. The icelayers 

in the glaciers store 

information on past 

climates. Such information 

is used to find causes of 

climatic change. 

18. Ice-experiment. Watch 

pressure melting and 

refreezing, and experiment 

with coloured water 

through the ice. 

19. Ice-experiment. Dig a 

fjord like a glacier, and 

make striations in the rock. 

20. Jostedalsbreen 

National Park was 

established in 1991. The 

Glacier Museum is situated 

at one entrance of the park. 

Model of Jostedalsbreen. 

The ice is lifted and reveals the landscape under the glacier. 

21. Cold News. 

22. Experiments. Three different activities: Make your own plastic 

ice. Try the ice screw in real glacier ice. An interactive model 

shows how crevasses in a glacier form. 

23. Ötzi - the man from the ice. The exhibition tells the story about 

the 5000 year old iceman Ötzi who was found in a glacier in the 

European Alps in 1991. Also read about finds in some of the 

Norwegian glaciers. 

Information Fjærland 

http://www.bre.museum.no/infoen.html 

"Fjærland" is the district surrounding Fjærlandsfjord, a branch of 

Sognefjord. Fjærland has 300 inhabitants, and is part of Sogndal 

municipality. The area has been settled since the Viking Age. The 

size of the population has varied over the years. Large scale 

emigration to America took place at the turn of the century. 

The centre in Fjærland is Mundal, about 3 km from the main road 

down the fjord. Mundal centre includes school, church and tourist 

information, as well as shops, hotels and other services. The church 

is from 1861, rebuilt in 1931. It is open to the public. In Mundal you 

will also find several bookshops, this being the eighth booktown in 

Europe and the first in Scandinavia since 1996. 

Most people in Fjærland are engaged in farming. The farms are 

large and easy to run compared to most farms in Western Norway. 

Soil quality and climate are particularly good with respect to animal 

food production. All the valleys in Fjærland have mountain 

pastures, so called "støl" or "sæter". Few of them are in use today. 

They can be reached by path or cart road. 

The climate in Fjærland is something in between the coastal and the 

inland climate. There is a lot of snow, usually 1-2 m (3-6 feet). The 

temperature can reach 30 ºC (86 ºF) in summer, and -20 ºC (-4 ºF) in 

winter. 

Nature and landscape 

The landscape in Fjærland has been shaped by glaciers through 

successive ice ages during the last 2,5 to 3 million years. Towering 

mountains and U-shaped valleys surround large delta areas which 

results from the accumulation of sediment supplied by the glacier 

175

ivers. The glaciers Bøyabreen and Supphellebreen come down to 

the valley floor in Fjærland. These are branches of Jostedalsbreen - 

the largest glacier on the European continent (487 km²). The ice falls 

of the glaciers move about 2 metres per day - they are among the 

fastest in Norway. The lower Supphellebreen , at an elevation of 60 

m, is the lowest lying glacier in Southern Norway. Parts of Fjærland 

lie within Jostedalsbreen National Park. The national park covers 

1230 km² and is characterized by great variation within short 

distances, from fjords and lowland, to mountains and glaciers. 

The cultural landscape in the valleys below the glacier tells about 

early settlements. Jostedalsbreen has been in use as a transport route 

for several hundred years. One of the most popular routes at the 

southern part of Jostedalsbreen is between Lunde and Fjærland, 

crossing Marabreen. 

The Bøyaøyri estuary at the head of the fjord is a protected nature 

reserve, due to its part in bird migration during the spring and 

autumn. 90 species have been observed and approximately 50 

species nest in the area. 

Turism 

Most of the trade is directed towards tourism, which has long 

traditions in Fjærland. Over the past 100 years travellers have come 

to see the fjord, the mountains and glaciers. In the early years 

numerous cruiseships brought tourists to Fjærland, where they 

travelled by horse and carriage to the glaciers. Today these roundtrips 

are made by bus. Several cruise ships visit Fjærland every 

summer. Especially the magnificent nature, the stillness and the 

good hiking conditions continue to delight the visitors. The path 

from the valley Supphelledalen up to the hut Flatbrehytta is the best 

gateway for the hikers to the glaciers. The local sports association 

has marked 10 more trails, from easy 1 hour walks to more difficult 

walks for 5-6 hours. 

Communication 

Until 1985 the only way to get to Fjærland was to travel by boat on 

the Fjærlandsfjord. In 1986 the road Fjærland-Skei was built. It was 

opened by former U.S. Vice-President Walter F. Mondale, whose 

family and name originated in Mundal in Fjærland. In 1994 the road 

was continued to Sogndal - making Fjærland a center of 

communications in Sogn og Fjordane. The car ferry Fjærland- 

Balestrand-Vangsnes-Leikanger offers a connection by boat to/from 

Bergen and Flåm. Busses are going from Mundal to the glaciers and 

to the glacier museum. 

From Fjærland there is short distance to, among others, Balestrand 

art village, Sogn Folk Museum, Urnes stavechurch (UNESCO World 

Heritage List), Norwegian Salmon Centre and Astruptunet in 

Jølster. 

176

Norwegian Coastal Voyage - Hurtigruten 

Norwegian Coastal Voyage - 

Hurtigruten 

http://www.boprod.se/norge/hurtigruten_e 

ng.html 

34 ports of call in each direction. 

Lofoten Islands. 

Top of the world around North Cape – carrying mail, cargo and passengers. 

Daily 

All Year 

Airport – Coastal Steamer via waiting hotel (luggage storage) A$37 

Airport – Coastal Steamer A$35 

Airport – Hotel in City Centre A$35 

Hotel/Railway – Coastal Steamer A$13 

DAY 1 – BERGEN 

Earliest check-in is from 6.00pm and departure later the same evening. Do 

arrive earlier in this charming Hanseatic city of Bergen and explore Bryggen 

wharf and the Fish Market before the ship sails. 

Day 2 - Florø-Ålesund-Molde 

The world’s most beautiful voyage … day by day 

Calling at 34 ports, the Norwegian Coastal Voyage is the lifeline along a 

stretch of coast, characterised by its tremendous distances, scattered 

settlements and dramatic scenery. The Norwegian Coastal Voyage has 

always been there, has always arrived and has always been reliable for more 

than 100 years. The Voyage today is a fascinating mixture of first-class 

passenger vessels and local working ships. Every day of the year, a Coastal 

ship leaves Bergen on the 11 night voyage to Kirkenes and back. This dayby-day 

overview will give you a taste of what lies ahead of you on the journey. 

There’s everything from lush scenery to rugged landscapes, small fishing 

stations to large towns, the open ocean and narrow straits. You will be able to 

enjoy the ports and the sights you sail past at night on your way north, during 

the day on the journey back south. 

Cabin of your choice. 

All meals. 

The ship crosses the open seas of Stadthavet and arrives at the art nouveau 

town of Ålesund. In summer the ships 

sail into the Geiranger fjord. We then 

call at Molde, with views of the 

magnificent Romsdal Alps, before 

sailing on to Hustadvika and 

Kristiansund. (BLD) 

Optional 

Ålesund/Geiranger: 

2a Geiranger–Ålesund 

2b Geiranger–Molde 

Excursions 

Day 3 - Kristiansund-Trondheim- 

Rørvik 

We sail up the wide Trondheim fjord to 

the city, which is the pride of the 

county. There is plenty to see here, including the charming old wooden 

buildings, Nidaros Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Residence, Ringve Museum. 

In the afternoon, we set a course to the west and north as the ship winds past 

6,000 Islands and arrives at Rørvik in the evening. (BLD) 

177

Optional Excursions Trondheim: 

3a Ringve – Museum of musical history 

3b Trondheim sightseeing 

Day 4 - Brønnøysund-Bodø-Svolvær 

Today, we cross the Arctic Circle, 66° 33’ North, with the impressive Børvass 

mountains on the starboard side as we approach Bodø. Then across the Vest 

fjord heading towards the magnificent, sheer Lofot Wall and arrive at the large 

fishing stations of Stamsund and Svolvær before night catches up with the 

ship once again in the Raftsund strait. (BLD) 

Optional Excursions Bodø: 

4a Svartisen 

4b The Norwegian Aviation 

Museum, Bodø 

4c Bodø sightseeing 

4d Rubber boat safari to 

Saltstraumen, Bodø 

Day 5 - Stokmarknes- 

Harstad-Tromsø-Skjervøy 

We sail through stunning skerries 

on the way north, past the 

picturesque old church at 

Trondenes, arriving at Harstad at breakfast, then setting a course for 

Finnsnes and the Maelstrom before reaching the university city of Tromsø, 

also known as the Paris of the North. Here also is the Arctic Ocean 

Cathedral. In the evening, the ship continues its journey to Skjervøy, sailing 

into the night. (BLD) 

Optional Excursions Tromsø: 

5a Tromsø sightseeing 

5b Tromsø sightseeing including 

Polaria 

Day 6 - Øksfjord- 

Hammerfest-Honningsvåg- 

Berlevåg 

We head towards Hammerfest and Finnmark’s rugged coast calling at several 

deserted fishing stations and thriving fishing ports before sailing on past the 

Sværholdtklubben bird rock and the amazing Finnkjerka rock formation. 

(BLD) 

Optional Excursions Honningsvåg: 

6a The North Cape 

6b Gjesvær bird watching 

Day 7 - Båtsfjord-Kirkenes-Berlevåg 

The ship sails round the rugged north and east coast of Finnmark. Early 

risers will catch Vardø and Vadsø before the ship continues southeast, into 

Bøk fjord and on to Kirkenes, the turning point of the journey. In Vardø, the 

most easterly town in Norway, we find the charming Vardøhus fort and sail 

further along the Varanger peninsula before arriving in Båtsfjord later that 

evening. The ship then continues on to Berlevåg as night falls. (BLD) 

Optional Excursions Kirkenes: 

7a The Russian border, Kirkenes 

7b River boat safari to the Russian border 

7c Barents safari, Kirkenes 

Day 8 - Mehamn-Hammerfest-Tromsø 

We visit Honningsvåg in the morning and then sail on to Øksfjord via 

Hammerfest and the Sørøysundet strait. Setting a course across the open 

sea of Lopphavet, the ship then sails into calm waters as we near Skjervøy 

and Tromsø. On the south-bound leg of the journey, it is night when it was 

day on the northbound leg. The nightlife in Tromsø is not to be missed! (BLD) 

Optional Excursions Honningsvåg/Tromsø: 

8a Honningsvåg–The North Cape–Hammerfest 

8b Polar Bear Club, Hammerfest 

8c Midnight concert, Tromsø 

Day 9 - Tromsø-Stamsund 

We sail through the narrow Risøyrenna strait after departing Harstad. We call 

at Stokmarknes where the Norwegian Coastal Voyage museum is located, 

and Vesterålen with the famous Raftsund strait before arriving in Svolvær and 

178

Stamsund with the Lofot Wall as a dramatic backdrop. Late that evening the 

ship sets sail for Vest fjord, heading towards Bodø. (BLD) 

Optional Excursions Harstad/Svolvær: 

9a Harstad–Sortland 

Trondheim 

Trondheim 

Tromsø 

11a Trondheim sightseeing 

11b Kristiansund–Molde 

9b Svolvær–Henningsvær– 

Stamsund 

Day 10 - Bodø-Rørvik 

We sail through narrow 

straits, past fertile farmland 

before once again crossing 

the Arctic Circle. The ship 

sails along the picturesque 

and legendary coast of 

Helgeland, which features the 

Seven Sisters mountain chain 

and the equally famous 

Torghatten mountain. (BLD) 

Day 11 - Trondheim- 

Molde 

Munkholmen Island marks the 

way to Trondheim and the 

city’s many attractions. Then 

we sail out of the fjord and set 

a course to the southwest 

along scenic Hitra and the 

open sea of Hustadvika 

before sailing into Molde with 

the impressive Romsdal Alps 

on the starboard side. (BLD) 

Optional Excursions 

Trondheim/Kristiansund: 

Day 12 - Ålesund-Bergen 

We sail past breathtaking scenery with fjord mouths and fertile, picturesque 

skerries such as Øygarden before the ship turns east and begins the final part 

of its journey into Bergen. (BL) 

Shore Excursions 

Shore excursions provide a contrast and variation to the journey by sea. 

Qualified guides and good transport connections add to your enjoyment. 

Some excursions are only available at certain times of the year – see 

descriptions of individual excursions for more information. The excursions are 

organised if weather permits and are subject to a minimum number of 

participants. 

DAY NO. PERIOD PRICE 

A$ 

2 

3 

EXCURSION 

2a 1Apr-30May 115 Geiranger–Ålesund: A journey 

through the magnificent landscape 

of west Norway. This excursion 

takes place before the Trollstigen 

road opens in summer. 4h 30min. 

2b 

31May- 

31Aug 

200 Geiranger–Molde: A trip with 

Trollstigen mountain as the 

highlight. 7h 30min. EXCURSIONS 

2A AND 2B MUST BE BOOKED IN 

ADVANCE. 

3a 1Apr-30Sep 55 Ringve–Museum of musical 

history: A unique museum, where 

visitors can see some of the many 

rare instruments on display. 2h 

30min. 

3b 1Oct-5Apr 55 Trondheim sightseeing: Guided 

coach trip including the magnificent 

Nidaros Cathedral. 2h. 

179

4 

4a 1Apr-30Sep 190 Svartisen: An exciting trip to 

Norway’s second largest glacier by 

coach and boat. The trip to and 

from the glacier is an experience in 

itself. 6h 15min. 

6b 1May-31Aug 190 Gjesvær bird watching: Coach 

tour from Honningsvåg to Gjesvær. 

From Gjesvær continue by boat to a 

fantastic nature reserve with bird 

life. 3h 45min. 

5 

4b All year 50 The Norwegian Aviation Museum, 

Bodø: A comprehensive and 

fascinating view of Norway’s civil 

and military aviation history. 2h. 

4c All year 45 Bodø sightseeing: Guided tour 

and a visit to Bodø Cathedral. 1h 

40min. 

4d 1Apr-31Oct 165 

RUBBER BOAT SAFARI TO 

SALTSTRAUMEN, BODØ: The 

strongest tidal current in the world. 

2h. 

5a All year 55 Tromsø sightseeing: Guided 

coach tour which includes Museum 

and the Arctic Ocean Cathedral with 

the largest stained-glass window in 

Europe. 2h 30min. 

5b All year 55 Tromsø sightseeing including 

Polaria: Guided coach tour which 

includes Polaria experience centre. 

2h. 

6 6a All year 140 The North Cape. Trip from 

Honningsvåg to the Arctic 

landscape of Magerøya. Highlights 

are the North Cape and Ivo 

Caprino’s film. 3h 45min. 

7 

8 

7a All year 45 THE RUSSIAN BORDER, 

KIRKENES: Coach trip from 

Kirkenes to Storskog and the 

Russian border. 1h 30 min. 

7b 26May-4Sep 165 RIVER BOAT SAFARI TO THE 

RUSSIAN BORDER: A boat trip 

with local guide along the Pasvik 

river to the Russian border. 1h 

30min. 

7c 9Dec-29Apr 200 BARENTS SAFARI, KIRKENES: 

An excursion full of activities. You 

will go by snowmobile, and it will be 

possible to try lasso throwing, chair 

sledge and tobogganing down a hill. 

1h 30min 

8a 1May-30Sep 190 Honningsvåg–The North Cape– 

Hammerfest: A fascinating coach 

trip through a dramatic landscape, 

including breakfast on the North 

Cape plateau. 6h. 

8b All year 45 

POLAR BEAR CLUB, 

HAMMERFEST: An insight into 

Hammerfest’s history as an Arctic 

city. 45min. 

8c 1Jun-31Jul 55 MIDNIGHT CONCERT, TROMSØ: 

A concert in the Arctic Ocean 

Cathedral. 1h. 

180

9 

9a All year 100 HARSTAD–SORTLAND: Coach 

trip through breathtaking, varied 

scenery, including a visit to the 

world’s most northerly medieval 

church. 4h 30min. 

9b 1Apr-31Aug 95 Svolvær–Henningsvær– 

Stamsund: Coach tour from 

Svolvær through the fantastic 

Lofoten Islands landscape, calling 

at the fishing station of 

Henningsvær. 3h. 

11b 

1Apr-31Aug 

105 KRISTIANSUND–MØLDE: The 

coach trip starts in Kristiansund and 

takes us to the fishing and small 

village station of Bud and the 

impressive Atlantic Ocean Road. 

4h. 

11 11a All year 55 TRONDHEIM SIGHTSEEING: 

Guided coach tour of this attractive 

and historically important city. Tour 

of Nidaros Cathedral. 2h. 

181

Nordkapp 


Welcome to North Cape - 71° North 

experience. 

North Cape is a monumental experience 

and offers a fascinating view from 307 

meter above the North Atlantic Ocean, 

sometimes illuminated by the midnight sun. 

North Cape is something extraordinary - the 

climatic conditions, the dramatic cliff itself 

and the fact that one is located on the 

utmost point of Europe, enhances the 

But is North Cape the only thing we can offer our guests? Why not go to 

Gjesvær for a Bird safari to a nature reservation with over 2 million seabirds. 

Or "Deep Sea Rafting" - in the middle of the night. In the summer there is no 

sunset, we have midnight sun. North Cape is filled with experiences. 

The winter is also an exciting experience. In the horizon the sky is "on fire". A 

reddish beam of daylight fades away. Then the sun disappears. But still 

fascinating, with Northern lights, snow-covered mountains and cliffs bathing in 

the moonlight. 

Regardless how your plans are, we are certain that a visit in the North of 

Norway will be an unforgettable experience. 

We look forward to welcoming you as our guest! 

History and culture 

Dear Guests, ”…here I am at the North Cape, Finnmark northernmost 

point, the very end of the world!” wrote the priest and scientist 

Francesco Negri in his diary in 1664. The trip he took on horseback, by 

skis and in fishing boats cost plenty of time and patience. But the 

destination – which he thought of as the most exciting place in the 

world – was irresistible. Today, 300 years later, your tour surely took 

place much faster and more comfortable. In addition, our country with 

its modern infrastructure is no longer “the end of the world”. But the 

feeling of standing on the North Cape cliff and scanning out across the 

Arctic Ocean`s endlessness is, as in Signor Negris` time, unchangeably 

fascinating and enchanting. Regardless of the time of year you visit – 

with the mystical midnight sun, a spectacular thunderstorm or the 

magical Northern Lights wish you heartily welcome! 

North Cape History 

People, fishing and way of life 

“It´s not just the countryside that is interesting, but the people is also friendly 

and helpful – despite the language difficulties, “ noted our traveller Mr. Negri. 

He was especially when he found someone with whom he could 

communicate – the priest on Magerøya at the time spoke Latin fluently! 

Even though we cant guarantee the Latin skills of the current Magerøya 

priest, the people in Finnmark are friendly, helpful and communicative to this 

very day. Just under 4000 live in the North Cape municipality, and the wide 

spectre of jobs reflects a modern commercial and service community. 

But the fact that you cannot find a single typical fish store in the fishing 

municipality of the North Cape has to do with the local industry – who wants 

to sell sand in the Sahara? Fishing has been a way of life and culture here for 

several centuries. The sea is ice-free the year-round because of the Gulf 

Stream. During the summer months the Pollack bring the sea to a boil, and 

the cold months are cod and haddock season. But delicacies such as shrimp, 

halibut, salmon and Norwegian haddock are also brought in to shore. Wile the 

landscape up until the end of the 1970s was characterised by huge fishdrying 

racks, today the main fish industry is frozen and salted fish. Large 

amounts of salted fish from the North Cape are sent to drying facilities on the 

west coast of Norway, and from there exported to the Bacalao-loving 

countries in Southern Europe and South America. The municipalities´ fishing 

fleet counts approx. 170 boats and 1998 they brought in approx. 40 million 

kilos of fish. Besides this you will find sea farms that produces salmon and 

sea trout. 

But not all fish is for export, some end up in pots and pans at local 

restaurants, which are well prepared for your visit. 

Past, present and future 

182

Signor Negri would surely not have believed it – but this distant and cold “end 

of the world” has been inhabited for more than 10 000 years. In the olden 

days, people lived in turf-huts and lived primarily from hunting and fishing. But 

they also traded with travellers from east to west. During the Viking Age, 

Finnmark was colonised and the population had to pay taxes. When the 

fishing industry became commercially viable in the Middle Ages, people 

moved closer together in small fishing villages as closed to the fishing fields 

as possible – out to areas exposed to the harshest weather conditions. It was 

a dangerous and hard life. Every fourth adult male died at sea, and 

neighbours and relatives had to support the widows and children left behind. 

The population in the municipality rose and sank in the pace to the access to 

fish and ability to sell the fish to markets in Europe. Trade with the German 

Hanseatic buyers and Russian tribes the deciding factor between poverty and 

prosperity. 

In the 1930s, the welcomed introduction of motorised boats made it possible 

for the coastal population to move into more sheltered coves and fjords. Many 

fishing villages facing out in the open ocean were abandoned and today are 

only used as summer residences. When the municipality was founded in 

1861, Kjelvik was the municipal centre. This is where the church stood until 

1882, with a church bell in honour of St. Nicholas, cast in 1521 in Germany. 

The church was destroyed in a hurricane, and the church bell is now on 

exhibit at “Nordkapp-museet.” In 1950, Kjelvik municipality changed its name 

to North Cape municipality. 

In the 1940s, with the German invasion, the most dramatic and saddest 

chapter in the municipality´s history began. No natural catastrophe has ever 

brought so much destruction and suffering to the people than hitler´s 

occupation forces. On their retreat in 1944, practically every building in the 

area fell victim to the German´s “scorched earth policy”. Only the church from 

1885 remained standing in the midst on the smoky ruins, and the population 

was forcefully evacuated southward under threat of dead. 

The new start in autumn 1945 cost plenty of energy and optimism. It was not 

until the middle of the 1969s that the reconstruction was complete. Today the 

North Cape municipality consists of six fishing villages. An excellent 

infrastructure has been built up in the region. A small-plane airport ensures 

good communication with the rest of the world. “ Hurtigruten ” (the express 

coastal steamer ) calls at Honningsvåg twice a day and the world´s longest 

sub-see tunnel between Magerøya and the mainland was completed in 1999! 

Seagulls, seashells and cloudberries 

Surrounded by Ravenna´s wine, tomato and melon fields, Francesco Negri 

became more and more curious about the land way up north. What did the 

local population eat besides fish? Which plants and animals were found 

among the ice, snow and rock? 

But even in this barren, sub-artic landscape, the fauna and flora is 

surprisingly diverse and colourful – although understandably not as fertile as 

in “ bella Italia”. About 200 different plant species have been registered on 

Magerøya, among them some very rare species such as Chamorchis alpina, 

a little orchid, Arenaria humifusa, witch otherwise only are found in Arctic 

regions. There are also plenty of cloudberries, mountain cranberries, 

crowberries and blueberries – down through the ages important sources of 

vitamin C for the population and delicious garnish for exquisite desserts. 

During the summer, one can wade in grass up to your knees in quiet oases, 

and pick wild chives and admire the shining yellow globeflower. There are not 

many trees, as tree line goes approx. 150 km south of the North Cape, so the 

closest we get to a “forest” is a little mountain birch woodland at Gjesvær and 

a few instances of birch trees and other trees on the mainland! 

Along the steep rocky slopes on the coasts, many different species of seabird 

nest. Some of them come to the bird rocks just to brood over their eggs, while 

the rest of the year they look for food out in the open sea. At Gjesvær you will 

find one of Finnmark´s largest bird-rocks – the nature reserve “ 

Gjesværstappan” with puffin, razor-billed auk, kittiwake, gannet, cormorant, 

guillemot and sea eagle. In the mountains, the dominating bird is the 

mountain grouse (Lagupus mutus). 

The sea also offers a wealth of animals to get a closer look at. There are killer 

whales, white whales, dolphins, porpoises and mink whales. Of the various 

local seal species, the grey seal whit it´s horse-like face is the most 

distinctive, and keeps to it´s resting places on the skerries around 

Gjesværstappan. 

The stock of otters has after being protected risen and there are no 

sustainable colonies. The most common mammals include the hare, ermine, 

weasel, and mink. On the mainland, there are stocks of red fox and a few of 

the protected Arctic fox (Alqpex lagopus). 

In the North Cape municipality there is no longer any farming. In the summer, 

however, the area is full of rein deer. Each spring in April, six Sami families 

from Karasjok lead their reindeer approx. 6000 animals for summer grazing 

on Magerøya. Some of the reindeer swim across the one kilometre 

183

Magerøya-sound, or are transported across with the help of the help of the 

military´s landing barges or a trailer. After the summer a part of the herd is 

slaugh-tered in September, the remaining are led the 300 kilometres back to 

winter grazing grounds in the inner parts of Finnmark. 

All of us – Numskull Jacks especially – have a good change finding small 

treasures and flotsam by the seashore. By wandering in the shoreline you 

can find stacks of drifting wood. It is an unwritten law among the local 

population that all stacks of drifting wood above the high water mark local 

collectors who use this wood for firing or building supplies. 

Adventures, nobility and you 

“One trip to North Cape and back is not enough!” , wrote Mr. Negri at an age 

og 60 years, and applied to the grand duke of Tuscany for financial support to 

undertake another expedition. 

Unfortunately this request was turned down, so the lack of funds prevented 

him from returning to “Capo Nord”. 

The dream of “riches”, not just scientific curiosity , attracted seamen, 

discoverers and adventurers to the coast of Finnmark already before Mr. 

Negri´ visit. In 1553, an English expedition started its dangerous journey 

along the coast of Norway in search of a Noth East passage. After his return, 

the highest in command on one of the three ships, Richard Chancellor, 

published a navigational chart of his trip, in which for the first time we can 

read the name “North Cape” . In the wake of this expedition, a number of 

other “ wild and adventurous” men passed by the North Cape – whale 

catchers and traders of various nationalities and not least of all pirates. One 

had to have one’s finances in order to afford a trip to the North Cape and 

there were more than a few “high and mighty” personalities among the first 

tourists – Prince Lois Philippe of Orleans, Oscar II of Sweden and Norway, 

Keiser Wilhelm II of Germany and King Chulalonkorn of Thailand – just to 

mention a few. In 1890 a first-class ticket on a 7-day trip from Trondheim to 

the North Cape cost NOK 300 – at the time an astronomical amount! In 1875, 

the travel agency Cook in London organised the first group trip – for 24 

participants. A new era had begun! In a travel handbook from 1867, a stay in 

Gjesvær is recommended…. 

“Accommodation and servise at the local shopkeeper is good and cheap – 

and his governess even entertains y playing the piano!” 

It was strenuous to climb up the cliff, and many visitors had to turn back 

before they reached the final destination because of the weather. One usually 

had to row from Skarsvåg or Gjesvær to Hornvika a little east of the North 

Cape and then climb the 307 m high cliff. In 1892, the first precursor to the 

current North Cape Hall was built at the plateau – “Stoppenbrinks 

Champagne Pavilion”, a small octagonal wooden building. 

Champagne and postcards to friend and family was the reward for the tiring 

climb. The North Cape municipality built and financed the road between 

Honningsvåg and the North Cape, which was opened in 1956, and thus 

visitors no longer needed to come equipped with climbing shoes and a 

climbing staff. The traffic picked up rapidly, from approx. 7000 visitors the first 

year to about 265 000 in the record year of 1994. In 1959 the first North Cape 

Hall was built. It was significantly expanded and improved both in 1988 and 

1997. Today the building is a modern tourist facility for all “adventures” who 

find their way up to the North Cape. On busy days, there can be up to 6000 

visitors! 

The island and its fishing villages 

The name “Magerøya” truly reflects the island´s Spartan, exposed vegetation. 

Nonetheless for most of the island´s inhabitants it is a beloved piece of earth. 

The North Cape municipality´s area consists of Magerøya island and the 

mainland around the mouth of Posanger fjord, in all 924 km2. In addition to 

the municipal centre Honningsvåg, there are four fishing villages on 

Magerøya: Nordvågen, Kamøyvær, Gjesvær and Skarsvåg, as well as 

Repvåg at the mainland. 

On the following pages you will find a short description of the various places, 

where you find them and what you can do there. The map on the first pages 

provide an overview of the municipality, and the city map in the end of the 

brochure will help you find your way through the streets of Honningsvåg. 

Honningsvåg – The city of The North Cape 

At the turn-of-the-century when a new fishing fleet was established with larger 

and motorised boats, many of the old harbours became obsolete. As a result, 

in 1895, the municipal council decided to move the municipal administration 

from Kjelvik to Honningsvåg, partly because the harbour was better suited. 

This proved to be a wise decision. Honningsvåg is today Norway´s next 

largest cruise boat harbour, with almost one hundred calls every day. The 

local coastal steamer Hurtigruta and other skips calls daily. Honningsvåg has 

also played a role as the last stop before the Artic Ocean for traffic eastward. 

184

Nearly 2 600 persons live in Honningsvåg. The town is a centre for Finnmark 

County´s fishery education. There is a post office, several banks and a police 

station. For physical ailments, you can contact the North Cape Health Centre 

or a dentist. There are good restaurants, plenty and shops, several car rental 

firms, as well as a number of souvenir shops. The islands´only petrol station 

is situated at the road into Town. “Nordkappmuseet” the maritime museum, 

which has several interesting exhibitions, is open year-round. 

“Nordkappmuseet” organises guided tours through the city of Honningsvåg. 

The same building also houses the Tourist Information Office “ Nordkapp 

Reiseliv AS”, which can help you book activities, adventures, accommodation 

and transport. 

Repvåg 

On the mainland, 28 km from the centre of Honningsvåg and 2 km from the 

E69 highway, you will find Repvåg. Today, Repvåg is a peaceful, small 

fishing village with approx. 40 inhabitants. Earlier, Repvåg was one of the 

most important harbours and trading places in Finnmark, particularly during 

the heyday of the Pomor trade with Russia up to 1917. Until 1977, the ferry 

crossed from Repvåg to Magerøya. The previously abandoned fish factory 

has now been elegantly renovated and has become a charming motel that 

gives you an impression of a bygone era. Small boats are available for rent, 

an guided fishing trips are organised. The autumn is an excellent time for 

fishing and haunting trips, end the winter is an excellent time for snowmobile 

tours. 

Nordvågen 

Nordvågen, 6 km from Honningsvåg, is with its 450 inhabitants the largest 

fishing village on the island. From here, you can follow an easy, well-marked 

trail to the abandoned fishing village of Kjelvik. The tour takes about 2 hour´s 

round trip. Nordvågen has a very active sport and cultural life and you find a 

slalom course here as well. 

Skipsfjord 

When you leave Honningsvåg 8 km in the direction of the North Cape, you 

arrive Skipsfjord, with the island´s largest hotel and camping site, as well as a 

sami cultural centre. The area is well suited for recreational activities with 

possibilities for mountain trips, boat rental and fishing. Skipsfjord is a 

recreational area for the local population both summer and winter. 

Kamøyvær 

Kamøyvær is located 12 km from Honningsvåg, along the road to the North 

Cape, at the end of Kamøyfjorden. It was not until the-turn-of-the-century that 

people settled here, and today about 130 people live in the fishing village. 

Kamøyvær was the focus for a modest “migration” about 90 years ago. 

Fishing families moved here from the weather-exposed coasts along the Artic 

Ocean, sea-sami settled down here and from the east came immigrants from 

the Finnish forests. Three different cultures met and three different languages 

could be heard from the quays of Kamøyvær. In time the Norwegian 

language came to dominate, and today ethnic differences almost 

disappeared. You will find a number of private rooms for rent and to charming 

guesthouses. Interesting in a good portion fish? Then you should definitely 

one of the restaurants on the square. Afterwards you could throw a glance 

into a new opened Gallery and in nice weather, take a boat excursion to “ 

Store Kamøya”, an island, outside of the fishing village – your hosts will gladly 

organise such a trip. 

Gjesvær 

In beautiful surroundings 34 km north west of Honningsvåg, you will the 

fishing village of Gjesvær, with approx.190 inhabitants. It was not until 1976 

that a road connected the village with the rest of the island. Up until then, you 

had to take local boats to get to and from the site. Already in the Viking Age, 

Gjesvær was known as an trading post and fish station and was presumably 

the first site at Magerøya, which had a permanent settlement. From the early 

Middle Ages and up to the last century, the village was one of the largest and 

richest fishing villages in Finnmark. From here, you have a magnificent view 

to “ The mother with her daughters – Gjesværstappan – an island group with 

one of Finnmark´s largest bird rocks. In the summer season, daily bird safaris 

are organised – don´t miss it. It is also possible to spend the night and get 

something to eat in Gjesvær. 

Skarsvåg 

Skarsvåg with its approx. 150 inhabitants is not just the northernmost town on 

Magerøya, but also “The worlds northernmost fishing village”! From here, it is 

14 km to the North Cape. Three camping sites with all modern facilities and 

tourist hotel are in place to ensure you a pleasant stay. In addition, you will 

also find a number of private persons renting rooms. After a half-hour walk 

along a marked path, you will arrive at a fascinating mountain formation “ 

Kirkeporten”. From here, you have a unique view toward the North Cape, 

185

witch is thought to be a pre-Christian Sámi sacrificial site. But don’t forget to 

take a trip and experience a Northern Norwegian fishing village from “the 

inside” and may be relax with a nice sup of mulled claret in the so called 

“winter house ”. In the winter, there are snowmobile and all-terrain vehicles 

tours to the North Cape plateau from Skarsvåg. 

On the last stage toward the North Cape, you pass one of the Sámi 

campsites belonging to one 

of the sami families who 

bring their reindeer to 

Magerøya in the summer to 

graze. 

The North Cape 

The plateau on the North 

Cape cliff – 307 m above 

the sea – is Europe´s 

northernmost corner, at 71 

10`21” latitude and 21 

47`40” longitude. The impressive and dramatic cliff has long been a 

navigational marker for seamen. The somewhat modest peninsula 

“Knivskjellodden” , which reaches one and a half kilometres further north (71 

11`8”) is surpassed, not just in height, but also when it comes to popularity. 

Before Rchard Chancellor christened the cliff the “North Cape” in 1553, the 

Norwegian word for it was “knyskanes” and the Russian word “ Murmanski 

Noss”. When you have reached the plateau, and only the sea and sky are 

ahead , you don’t need much fantasy to imagine yourself being on the top of 

the world – a little bit closer to heaven and a little bit further away from the 

stress of everyday life. 

You can also visit the North Cape in the winter, weather permitting! The North 

Cape hall contains a restaurant, cafeteria, bar and one of Scandinavia’s 

largest souvenir shops, post office and the ecumenical “ St. Johannes 

Chapel.” Ever since 1997, after being wed in the chapel, you can spend your 

wedding night in the exclusive wedding suite on the top of the North Cape 

hall! In the supervideograph, on a 225-degree film screen, Ivo Caprino 

presents the North Cape in an exciting way with a film. You can also 

celebrate your visit to the North Cape with exclusive membership in “The 

Royal North Club”, together with a glass of champagne. 

With this description of your visit to the North Cape plateau, we end our short, 

written journey with some parting words from our charming companion Signor 

Negri: “ Here where the world ends, ends also my curiosity, and I return home 

content.” We hope that you too will have an enjoyable and interesting stay, 

which you, content and enthusiastic can tell about when you return home. 

Sami Culture 

Sápmi - the land of the Sami people - stretches over four countries: Norway, 

Sweden, Finland and Russia. It is supposedly 50.000 sami people in this 

area, and about half of them live in Norway. 

Picture: Nils Somby and family 

Photgrapher: Bjørn Moholdt 

Copyright: Nordkapp Reiseliv AS 

Nils M. Somby "siida" (Sami camp) is situated 22 km from Honningsvåg, 

direction North Cape. A visit to the camp and the traditional “lavvu” (tent), 

belonging to the family, gives a first hand view into the life and culture of the 

Sami people. For generations, the family has had its summer camp at 

Magerøya, just a short walk from the road to the North Cape. 

Open from middle of April to Middle of October 

For more information about sami culture please go to the following web-page: 

http://www.samitour.no/ 

186



Housed in a very distinctive building that represents ice floes that have been 

pressed up on land by the rough seas of the Arctic, you will discover Polaria, 

just five minutes walk from the centre of Tromsø. Polaria has an Arctic 

aquarium, interesting knowledge-based exhibits, a panoramic cinema, and a 

gift and souvenir shop. 

Polaria was established in 1997 on the initiative of The Department of the 

Environment, in order to spread knowledge and awareness of Arctic flora and 

fauna, climate and environmental consequences, to tourists and other 

visitors. Polaria is a part of the Polar Environment Centre, which houses a 

number of research bodies, the largest of them being the Norwegian Polar 

Institute. 

In our panoramic cinema, you can look forward to the Ivo Caprino film 

"Svalbard - Arctic Wilderness". A little auk takes you on an airborne trip with 

you in a helicopter, along the west coast of Spitsbergen - the largest island in 

the group known as Svalbard. Along the way you can experience the unique 

animal and plant life, enjoy dramatic flights over massive icebergs and meet 

the King of the Arctic. Outside the summer season we also show the film 

"Antarctica", an entertaining film about the Antarctic continent, with penguins 

in the starring role. 

After the film visitors are taken along the "Arctic trail" where you can 

experience first hand some elements of Arctic nature - a snowstorm, a dozing 

polar bear, the tundra and the Aurora (Northern Lights). In the aquarium the 

main attraction are the bearded seals. The bearded seal is an arctic species, 

and they are very popular among children and adults alike, due to their quiet 

disposition and intelligent nature. The high points are the tunnel that goes 

under the aquarium itself and the training and feeding of the seals. The 

aquarium has interesting exhibits of the most common species of fish in the 

Barents Sea. 

The exhibitions are under continuous development, and are an excellent 

place to gain useful knowledge on Arctic flora and fauna, environmental 

issues, geology and natural phenomena. 

The Polaria shop is an original gift and souvenir shop with a wide variety of 

local crafts, seal products, books, toys and other souvenirs related to our 

theme. 

Welcome to Polaria! 

Our seals 

The bearded seal (Erignatus barbatus) is an Arctic species that has Svalbard 

as its natural habitat. 

All the seals came to Polaria at five weeks old. The three males, Sassen, 

Diesel and Blåmann arrived in the summer of 1998, and the three females 

Aurora, Bella and Mai San arrived in summer 2003. Polaria has the only 

group of bearded seals in captivity in the world. The bearded seal was 

chosen because of its quiet nature and non-aggressive disposition. 

At Polaria we train our seals at the same time as they are fed. They are not 

trained to perform or make any kind of "seal show", but to stimulate them 

mentally. Animals in captivity that are trained live a much better life than 

those that are untrained. Mainly we train the seals to co-operate with 

veterinary examinations, for example to come out of the water and to open 

187

their mouths. These exercises make it possible for our keepers and veterinary 

staff to examine the seals daily and to satisfy ourselves that they are healthy 

and in generally good shape. When we train the seals, we use the same 

methods that are used to train animals that take part in Walt Disney's films - 

we reward the animals when they do as we want them to do, and ignore them 

if they do not. This is called positive reinforcement. 

The bearded seal lives in the circumpolar regions in relatively shallow waters 

with ice floes, and has two natural enemies. The most threatening of these is 

the polar bear; however walruses have been known to take bearded seals. It 

lives on benthonic (bottom-living) organisms, fish, crustaceans and mussels. 

The bearded seal becomes sexually mature at 5 years old. At this age the 

seal is up to 2.6 metres long and has an average weight of 270 kg for both 

sexes. The female is the heaviest as an adult and can reach 420 kg. They 

mate in May, as soon as they have given birth and have a gestation period of 

10.5 to 11 months. This means that the development of the embryo is 

"suspended" for 1- 1.5 months after mating occurs. The bearded seal 

normally gives birth to one single young, every other year. 

The young are born around the 1st of May and weigh 35-40 kg, and are 

approximately 85 cm in length. Unlike other species of seal, the bearded seal 

young have lost their "baby fur" as foetuses, and have fur like adults when 

born. They can therefore live in the water straight away after birth. The young 

suckle for a period of three weeks. At the same time they are very active in 

the water and on land, and the transition to solid food is gradual. Seal milk is 

almost like a high-energy drink and contains about 50% fat. Considering that 

the young drink around 8 litres of milk per day, it is not surprising that they 

gain weight at a rate of up to 4 kilos per day! Their weight is almost doubled 

during the first 3-4 weeks. At the same time the mother can lose up to 100- 

120 kg in body weight. 

Some information about our seals and their special characteristics: 

Sassen 

Sassen is a happy-go-lucky chap with a pleasant character. He enjoys his 

food and will eat almost anything that is offered. As he is so jolly and very 

keen on food, he reminds us of Winnie the Pooh. 

Sassen is easily identified from the large light-coloured patches on his back. 

Sassen enjoys his training and is intelligent and quick to learn. At the moment 

it is Sassen who feels the most confident when we are in the pool using 

diving equipment. 

Diesel 

Diesel is the tough-guy of the pool ? or so we believed! He is not really as 

tough as we thought. He is like a lot of Northerners - mostly talk... He is the 

only one of the male seals who is frightened by our new seal pups, Aurora, 

Bella and Mai San. 

For a while, Diesel used to think it was great fun to bite the ends of our 

fingers, but lately he seems to have given up this particular bad habit. If he 

gets the chance, he will try to steal some of the other seals? food. He loves 

attention and can untie a double shoelace knot with his teeth. During training, 

Diesel is perhaps the cleverest; he does all of his exercises almost perfectly. 

188

Blåmann 

Blåmann is the real charmer at Polaria. He became very haughty after he was 

chosen to swim over to the Norwegian Crown Princess Mette-Marit with a 

rose. He is the most laid back of all the seals, and because he is much more 

leisurely in his manner than Sassen and Diesel, he puts on weight easily. 

During some periods he becomes so large and heavy that we have to give 

him less food. After training is over he enjoys lying at the side of the pool, just 

relaxing. Blåmann is very calm and is good at learning new things. He is the 

most dexterous of the seals and loves to play "catch" with a football on the 

poolside. He will probably be the keeper on the seal football team one day. 

When our three young seals arrived at Polaria in June 2003, it became 

apparent that Blåmann is the boss in the pool. He seems to take his position 

seriously and he is kind, but firm. 

Aurora 

Aurora is the darling of Polaria. She is confident, active and playful. She is a 

tough seal, and has no respect for the boys! She runs off with their rings or 

their football, and hangs on their backs when they try to get them back. 

Aurora seems to be fearless, impatient and keen. At the same time she is 

observant and quick to learn. 

Aurora has dark lines on her face and a brown-coloured patch on her head. 

She is dark-coloured along her back and has small dark spots on the 

underside of her body. Her symbol is a turquoise half-moon. 

Bella 

Bella seems to be the most confident of the female seals. She is playful, 

active and trustful. She was the smallest of the females when she was 

captured. To begin with, Aurora and Mai San tried to force her out during 

feeding, but Bella soon learned to fight back. Bella is quiet, easily taught and 

shows good progress in her training. 

She is easily identified by the light coloured patches on her head and back. 

She has the same pigment marks as Sassen. 

Mai San 

Mai San is the most wary of the three females. She is observant and appears 

to enjoy her training. 

She is the only one of the seals that is so eager during feeding time that she 

makes a noise to attract attention from the keepers. 

When Mai San feels confident in her surroundings, she does all she has been 

taught almost perfectly. She also appears to be a dominant type, and 

demonstrates this especially towards the other females, Aurora and Bella. 

She has something of a temperament. 

Mai San has a large brown mark on her head and is completely silver-grey 

along her underside. She has long whiskers and red-coloured rings around 

her eyes. 

The name Mai San is Japanese and it means "dancer". Her symbol is a white 

square, with her name written on it in Japanese. 

About seals in general 

http://www.polaria.no/en/about_seals.php 

Seals belong to the class of sea mammals, but unlike whales are dependent 

on land or ice to give birth and suckle their young. Seals are predators that 

feed from quarry that they catch in the sea. Seals get all the fluids they need 

from their food, since they also swallow a lot of seawater. The seal's 

metabolism is adapted to pass excess salt through their urine. 

There are in total 32 seal species, of which seven occur in Norwegian waters. 

The seals are divided into three families: 

True seals (Phocidae) 

Eared seals (Otaridea) 

Walrus (Odobenidae) 

True seals 

True seals swim with their back flippers and steer with their front flippers. On 

land they drag themselves with their back flippers pointing backwards. Based 

189

on differences in their teeth and in skeleton anatomy, the true seals are 

divided into three sub-families: 

Phocinae, with eight species, of which bearded seals, harbour seals, 

grey seals, ringed seals and harp seals occur in Norwegian waters. 

Monachinae, with seven species, none of which occur in our waters. 

Cystophorinea, with three species, one of which, the hooded seal 

occur in Norwegian and adjacent waters. 

Eared seals 

Eared seals have a visible outer ear. Both eared seals and walruses have 

forward-facing back flippers when they are out of the water. In the water they 

use their front flippers to swim, whilst their back flippers are held together and 

used as a rudder. There are two sub-families (sea lions and fur seals), with 

13 species in total that all inhabit the Pacific and South Atlantic Oceans. 

Walrus 

The family has only one species, which is Arctic and circumpolar, which 

means they are found around the whole of the North Calotte. The walrus is 

the largest animal found in Norway, apart from the whale. The males can 

weigh up to 1550 kg, the females up to a tonne. Both sexes have the 

characteristic tusks that can be up to a metre in length. Their main food 

source is bottom-living animals, especially shells; however they have been 

known to capture other seal species. Walruses are very social animals and 

live in large groups. After once being extremely common, they were almost 

wiped out on Svalbard. The walrus was given protected status in 1952, when 

there were as few as 100 left. Now there are approximately 1000 walruses on 

Svalbard. 

190

The history of Norway 

By TOR DAGRE 


The first men to appear in what is now Norway, emerged from dim pre-history 

when the great inland ice sheets were retreating over Scandinavia. 10,000 

years ago the forefathers of today's Norwegians hunted reindeer and other 

prey on their long trek north. The land they came to had for centuries borne 

the weight of the icecap, so the coastline was about 200 metres higher than it 

is today. The oldest proofs of human activity were discovered on a hill in the 

southeast region of Østfold, not far from the southern frontier with Sweden. At 

that time the hill was probably an offshore island, just south of the glacier tip. 

There is no general agreement on where the ancestors of today's 

Norwegians came from, or on the routes they took on their journey north, but 

one of these routes certainly passed through Østfold. Artefacts found at 

settlements there are of the same type that has been discovered in southern 

Sweden and in Denmark. A further possible route may have led from the socalled 

North Sea continent to southwest Norway. 

These first Norwegians were hunters who, wherever nature permitted it, 

settled in small groups. They left proof of their existence in flint tools, clay 

vessels, and not least, rock carvings. In every part of Norway remain 

specimens of their art, hewn or ground into the rock. The carvings depict their 

prey: reindeer, moose, deer, bears and fish. People, or boats appear only 

seldom. 

The transition to agriculture started in Norway approximately 5,000 to 6,000 

years ago, initially in the area around the Oslofjord. By the Bronze Age (1500 

- 500 B.C.) it is the farmers' cultural relics that dominate the archaeological 

finds, particularly in south Norway. Finds from this same period in north 

Norway show that the people were hunters. At many locations in far north 

Finnmark there were sizeable settlements of hunters, clear proof of 

seasonable cooperation between many people. 

From the Roman Age ( 0 -400 A.D.) grave finds show that there were links 

with the civilized countries to the south. Utensils of bronze, and glass were 

discovered, as well as weapons. The art of writing, in the form of runic letters 

also became known in the Nordic lands at this time. 

The migrations of 400 to 550 A.D. were a restless period of continental 

Europe's history, and relics found in Norway indicate that the same conditions 

prevailed there too. The existence of farms in marginal areas indicates that 

settlement had reached saturation point. Pollen analyses reveal that at this 

time the coastal areas to the west were deforested. The troubled times led 

tribes to establish defence systems such as forts, and on the eastern banks 

of Norway's largest lake, Mjøsa, the remains of these are evident over a 

stretch of 50 km. 

The age of the Vikings (ca. 800 - 1050 A.D.) 

The Viking era marks the termination of the prehistoric period in Norway. 

There were still no written sources of knowledge, and what is known about 

this period is largely based on archaeological remains. Nevertheless, the 

Sagas shed some light on this age. Although they were written down later, 

the Sagas were based on word of mouth tales passed down from one 

generation to the next. In synthesis they reveal that the Viking age must 

without comparison have been the richest of all the prehistoric periods in the 

north. 

Many scholars regard the looting of the monastery of Lindisfarne, off 

England's northeast coast, in the year 793 as the beginning of the Viking Age. 

Over extensive parts of west and southwest Europe they are still regarded as 

cruel brigands, who wrought havoc on their victims with fire and the sword. 

This is only partially true. The Vikings also came on peaceful errand, to trade 

and to colonize. Norwegian Vikings settled in the Orkney Isles, the Shetlands, 

the Hebrides, and on the Isle of Man. The mainland of northern Scotland and 

Ireland also became their home, and Dublin, founded by the Vikings in the 

840s, was under Nordic rule right up to 1171. 

In Iceland and Greenland the Norwegian Vikings found uninhabited land. 

There they settled and built communities. Present-day Iceland is a direct 

consequence of the Viking colonization. On Greenland, however, the Norse 

communities, for reasons unknown, died out some few centuries later. 

The Norwegian Vikings came mostly from the south and west of the country, 

where the land had been utilized to the maximum it could tolerate. In 

southeast and north Norway, on the other hand, settlement based on 

191

agriculture and other activities spread to previously uninhabited areas, 

particularly in the mountains and valleys. 

For their many expeditions the Vikings needed fast and seaworthy ships, and 

men with the skill to navigate them over open seas. The fact that these hardy 

men repeatedly voyaged to America and back is evidence enough of their 

mastery of the longships. The Sagas relate that it was Leif Eriksson who 

discovered "Wineland the Good" in the year 1001, but present day scholars 

claim that other Vikings had reached America before him. The Viking Age 

finally culminated in 1066 when the Norwegian King Harald Hardruler and his 

men were defeated at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in England. 

A United Kingdom 

Up to the 800s the regions that later became Norway were not unified. But 

both groups and individuals attempted to bring them together. Two main 

types of community were formed: 

* assemblies or "tings" organized around a central "Allting" and * petty 

kingships. 

There must have been several reasons for this. Not least of them was the 

farmers' need for peace and continuity, particularly in the coastal areas, that 

were repeatedly troubled by robber bands and the harryings of the 

homecoming Vikings. The costal areas possessed at this time substantial 

riches in the shape of stolen and traded goods. Safe on their "thrones" sat the 

petty kings, who thanks to the kinships created by intermarriage, were a tightknit 

group with considerable power. 

The petty kings in the Viken -- the areas surrounding the Oslofjord, played a 

major role in this process. There might increased steadily as district after 

district was brought under their rule. After a battle at Hafrsfjord near 

Stavanger, believably fought in the year 872, King Harald Fairhair 

strengthened his position as ruler of large areas of the country. This unifying 

process, however, continued for several more decades, bringing harsh 

struggles between warring Norwegian chieftains, and between Norwegian 

and other peoples of the north. By 1060 the unifying process appears to have 

been completed. 

The advent of Christianity 

Christianity was introduced into Norway over a lengthy period of time, 

possibly two hundred years. It was a natural result of the Norwegians' contact 

with Christian Europe, through trading connections and Viking raids. Missions 

from the churches of England, Germany and Denmark had also contributed to 

a weakening of traditional belief in the Nordic gods. This development 

culminated with the three missionary kings, Håkon the Good, Olaf 

Trygvasson, and Olaf the Stout. The latter's martyr death, at the battle of 

Stiklestad in 1030 gave him saint's status. The Church had won the final 

victory. 

From the middle of the 11th century the legislation that was enacted, the 

songs that were sung, and the monuments that were erected demonstrated 

the firm establishment of Christianity in Norway. Shortly before the year 1100 

the first bishoprics appeared, among them the see of Nidaros, later 

Trondheim, where the archbishop held office from 1152. The Norwegian 

archbishop also played a political role. In 1537 the Reformation was enforced 

in Norway by royal decree. At this time the country was under Danish rule, 

and the Reformation was enforced simply by making the so-called 

Danish/Norwegian church ordinance applicable in Norway too. From the early 

1600s the Lutheran creed was the sole creed of Norway . 

The Middle Ages 

The year 1130 was a watershed in Norwegian history. A period of peace was 

disrupted by conflicts; the civil wars which lasted right up to 1227. 

But 1130 was a special year in other ways too. It is regarded as the start of 

the so-called High Middle Ages, a period of population growth, consolidation 

within the Church, and the rise and development of the towns. As Crown and 

Church brought district after district under their rule the degree of public 

administration and authority increased. Historians say that only then could 

Norway be termed one realm. 

The power of the monarchy increased in the 1100s and 1200s, ending in 

victory both over the Church and the nobles. The traditional secular 

aristocracy was replaced by a serving aristocracy. The status of the farmers 

changed in this period, from that of freeholder to that of tenant. However, the 

farmer, who usually rented his lands on a lifetime basis, enjoyed a free status 

that was rare indeed in most of contemporary Europe. The slaves of the 

Viking age also disappeared in the High Middle Ages. 

192

During this period the political centre of gravity in Norway moved from the 

southwest to the districts surrounding the Oslofjord. During the reign of King 

Håkon V, in the 1200s, Oslo became Norway's capital. Prior to this it had 

been an insignificant clutch of houses in the innermost reaches of the 

Oslofjord. When the Black Death reached Norway, in 1350, the town 

allegedly housed no more than 2,000 people. At that time Bergen had a 

population of 7,000 and Trondheim 3,000. 

The state revenues in the High Middle Ages were extremely modest by 

European standards. Towards the end of the period they were scarcely 

adequate to finance any expansion of the administrative apparatus of Crown 

and state. The Black Death had raged with terrible effect, reducing the 

population to one half or possibly only one third of its pre-1350 level. This 

development prompted the King and the nobility to seek revenues from lands 

and feudal estates, regardless of national boundaries. This contributed 

towards the growth of the political unions in the Nordic lands. 

Right from the 1319 to 1343 period Norway and Sweden had a joint 

monarchy, an institution later expanded through the arrangement of inter- 

Scandinavian royal marriages. Håkon VI (1340-80) -- son of the Swedish king 

Magnus Eriksson, and Håkon V's daughter Ingebjørg -- was lawful heir to the 

throne of Norway. He married Margrete, daughter of the Danish king 

Valdemar Atterdag. Their son, Olav, was chosen to be Danish king on the 

death of Valdemar in 1375. He inherited the throne of Norway after his father 

in 1380, thus bringing Norway into a union with Denmark that lasted right up 

to 1814. 

Union with Denmark 

The late Middle Ages were a period of marked economic deterioration in 

Norway. The population had been drastically reduced by the ravages of the 

Black Death and other plagues during the fourteenth century. Many farms in 

the marginal areas were deserted, and incomes sank. Some claim that a 

worsening of the climate and the grip of the Hanseatic League on Norwegian 

economy were the cause of the decline. Others believe that a steady 

impoverishment of the soil contributed to the deterioration. 

The economic depression brought political consequences in its wake. 

Denmark assumed increasing importance as the major Nordic land. Danish 

and German nobles were appointed to the highest official offices. Lands and 

Episcopal residences passed into foreign hands. The Norwegian nobility 

dwindled. Thus was the will and the ability for national self-assertion gradually 

sapped. 

From 1450 the union with Denmark was established by treaty -- a treaty 

supposedly meant to ensure the power of the Norwegian Council of the 

Realm when a monarch was being selected, though this stipulation was never 

respected. The treaty was also to serve as a guarantee of the equality of the 

two realms. This was the theory; practice proved otherwise. 

In 1536 Norway ceased to be an independent kingdom. This came about at a 

national assembly in Copenhagen, where King Christian III had pledge to the 

Danish noblemen that Norway was henceforth to be subservient to the 

Danish Crown, like any other Danish possession. Norway's Council of the 

Realm was disbanded, and the Norwegian church lost its autonomy. The 

Danish noblemen could from then on freely take over positions as officers of 

the law in Norway, and could earn their incomes from Norway too. 

This close political link with Denmark drew Norway unavoidably into the wars 

that Denmark waged with Sweden and the Baltic Sea powers. It led the 

Danish king to surrender Norwegian land to Sweden; Jemtland and 

Herjedalen in 1645, Båhuslen and the fief of Trondheim in 1658, the latter, 

however, was returned to Norway two years later. 

An assembly of the States General at Copenhagen in 1660 acclaimed Fredrik 

III as heir to the throne and assigned to him the task of giving the kingdoms a 

new constitution. In this way the two kingdoms were subject to an absolute 

monarchy, a factor that affected Norway's position throughout the remaining 

period of the union of the two lands. Although Norway was governed from 

Copenhagen, the monarch was often in no position to rule. The real power lay 

in the hands of the state officials. By and large Norway profited from this, as 

among the state officials dawned some comprehension of the Norwegian 

standpoint. On issues relating to Norway in particular, the views of the highranking 

Norwegian officials were often respected. 

In this period of absolute rule a policy was formulated whereby Denmark and 

Norway were to be treated as a single economic unit. Thus, Denmark was 

accorded sole rights to the sales of grain in southeast Norway (1737), while a 

corresponding monopoly on sales of iron from Norway was introduced in 

Denmark. Through the so-called town privileges in 1662 all trade in timber 

was concentrated in the towns, where the inhabitants were granted exclusive 

rights to purchase timber from the farmers and the sawmill owners. The 

193

intention was to create a wealthy middle class in the town -- and this goal was 

achieved. 

The middle class which emerged in the wake of economic developments bore 

the seeds of a certain national awareness. This was especially marked in the 

1700s. It could have resulted from the strong economic growth of this social 

class, but probably the decisive factor was the growing resistance to the 

rulers' efforts to make Copenhagen the economic nub of the two lands. The 

Norwegian traders could not compete with the mighty trading houses of the 

Danish capital. 

In the late 1700s most imports were shipped through Copenhagen. The 

timber retailers of southeast Norway made a concerted demand for a national 

Norwegian bank, and at the same time supported the demands of the senior 

officials for a Norwegian University. These demands were denied, as the 

government feared any move, which might give Norway a more autonomous 

position, and impair the strength of the union. The concept of a Norwegian 

University and national bank gradually came to symbolize the growing 

national consciousness. 

The trend accelerated during the Napoleonic Wars of 1807 -1814. 

Denmark/Norway were allied with France, and the resulting blockade isolated 

Norway both from Denmark and from the market. Shipping and timber 

exports came to a halt, and famine and hunger spread through the land. As 

Norway could no longer be administered from Copenhagen, a government 

commission of senior officials was appointed to carry out this task. The King, 

Frederik VI, submitted to demands for a national university, which was 

consequently established in 1811. All these events formed the backdrop for 

what was to take place in 1814. 

Secession from Denmark 

At the Battle of Leipzig in 1813 Napoleon suffered heavy defeat. One of his 

opponents on the battlefield, the kingdom of Sweden, had previously lost 

Finland to the czardom to the east, and now wished to have Norway as a 

safeguard on its western border. Sweden's allies had therefore pledged 

Norway to it as one of the spoils of war. 

The allied victory at Leipzig was followed by diplomatic pressure in 

Copenhagen and a military attack on the double monarchy, by way of 

Holstein. In January 1814 Fredrik VI surrendered, cut the links with Napoleon, 

and handed Norway over to his Swedish opponents. In this way ended 434 

years of union between Norway and Denmark. 

However, the agreement between Denmark and its opponents contained 

political elements that were of major importance to Norway. The terms firmly 

established that Norway was again to take its place among the independent 

states, in union with Sweden. In a subsequent proclamation from the Swedish 

king Carl XIII, it was stated that Norway was to have the status of an 

independent state, with its own free constitution, national representation, its 

own government and the right to levy taxes. 

The Norwegians were not immediately agreeable to accepting this state of 

affairs. Governing Norway at that time was the nephew of the Danish King, 

Prince Christian Frederik. In understanding with his uncle, the governor 

paved the way for a Norwegian revolt, to prevent a Swedish takeover and 

presumably also to secure a reunion of Denmark and Norway. 

The governor's action led to the convening of an assembly whose purpose 

was to forge a constitution. They met at Eidsvoll, some 70 km north of Oslo 

and on May 17 1814 formally adopted the constitution, choosing Christian 

Frederik as Norwegian king. To this day, May 17 is celebrated as the 

Norwegian national day. 

The victors of the Napoleonic Wars however, were unwilling to accept any 

deviation from the terms of the agreement. The Swedes exerted diplomatic 

pressure, and when this proved to be of no avail, they launched a military 

campaign of trained troops who rapidly subdued the Norwegians. In August 

an agreement was signed at Moss, south of Oslo, whereby the Swedes 

accepted the Norwegian Constitution signed at Eidsvoll, with the 

amendments made necessary by the Union of the two kingdoms. King 

Christian Frederik relinquished his power on 10 October 1814, and left the 

country. Norway had entered into another Union. 

1814 - 1905 

In the years immediately following 1814 the newly organised state fought 

repeatedly for its existence. Norway was hit by the worst economic 

depression it had ever suffered. The common market with Denmark was 

dissolved and the British market was closed to Norwegian timber. Mines and 

sawmills lost foreign custom. Many of the wealthier middle class citizens in 

southeast Norway went bankrupt. The crisis was hard and long. 

194

During this period of economic woes there were a number of trials of strength 

between Norway's parliamentary assembly, the Storting, and the Swedish 

monarchy. The Constitution was used as a means of abolishing the 

Norwegian nobility, partly to prevent the Swedish King from enlisting support 

for himself through creating more nobles. In 1821 a crisis arose when the 

Swedish monarch assembled troops outside Oslo to force the Storting to 

accept increased power for the monarchy. The proposals were rejected. 

From the 1830s Norway enjoyed a period of economic buoyancy, which fed 

demands for freer trade and customs regulations. Trading rights were 

expanded and customs tariffs were given a free trade bias. In other ways too, 

Norway started to take part in general developments in Europe. The first 

railway line was laid, between Oslo and Eidsvoll, in 1854. Telegraph lines 

were erected. New management methods were introduced in agriculture. 

The foundation for modern industry in Norway was laid in the 1840s, with the 

establishment of the first textile factories and engineering workshops. 

Between 1850 and 1880 the size of the Norwegian merchant fleet increased 

drastically. 

Economic developments were followed by intensified class conflict. The 

February revolution of 1848 had consequences for the political movement 

among the workers. The calls for democratic reform grew louder. 

In the Storting antagonisms gradually arose between the representatives of 

the senior officials who attended to administration, and the delegates for the 

farmers and the radicals. The farmers were in the majority as early as 1833. 

In 1859 the first attempt to create a party organisation was unsuccessful, but 

ten years later the first liberal block was formed, though without a party 

organisation. Norway's first political party, the radical Liberal Party was 

established, in 1884, and its political counterpart, the Conservative Party, 

some months later. 

The antagonism felt towards the Swedish monarchy soon became apparent 

in the Union, not least because foreign policy was led in its entirety from 

Stockholm. As early as 1827 the Storting requested of the King that the 

Norwegian prime minister be allowed to take part in handling diplomatic 

issues. Other proposals were forwarded to promote Norwegian equality in the 

union; a special Norwegian merchant flag, for example. 

The really major struggle against the Swedish monarchy, however, was 

linked to the introduction of parliamentarianism, the constitutional principle 

that a government must have the support of the national assembly if it is to 

remain in power. As a condition for this, the Storting passed amendments to 

the constitution in 1874, 1879 and 1880, giving ministers of the crown access 

to the sessions of the Storting. On each occasion the King refused to sanction 

the proposal. 

This raised the issue of whether constitutional amendments in fact needed 

the consent of both the King and the Storting. Both the government and the 

Conservative representatives asserted that they did. However, the Liberals 

were determined to bring matters to a head through an impeachment 

process. After an election campaign in 1882, conducted with a vehemence so 

far unparalleled, the Liberals returned 82 representatives to the Storting, as 

against the Conservative's 32. The government of Prime Minister Selmer was 

impeached, and in 1884 sentenced to partial loss of office, primarily for 

having advised the King not to sanction the constitutional amendments. After 

a period of interim Conservative government, the King saw no option but to 

request Liberal leader, Johan Sverdrup to become prime minister. 

Parliamentarianism had finally won through in Norway. 

The Liberals put several of their leading issues through parliament, including 

the jury system, new military arrangements and a law on primary schooling. 

Towards the end of the century clashes on the subject of the union 

intensified. A Swedish demand that the union's foreign minister must be 

Swedish, and the Norwegians' demand for their own consulates sparked 

bitter disagreement. Swedish troops prevented the Norwegians from 

achieving their desires. In return, the Norwegians spent the final years of the 

century building up their military power. 

In the end it was the consulate issue that triggered the final conflict between 

the two countries. On March 111905, the government of Prime Minister 

Michelsen was formed to push the consulate issue through as a unilateral 

Norwegian action. On June 7 the government placed its power in the hands 

of the Storting. The latter, however, requested the government to continue 

temporarily, in accordance with the Constitution and current law "with the 

amendments made necessary in that the union with Sweden under one King 

is dissolved as the King no longer functions as a Norwegian monarch." 

Thus, the Norwegian view was that the union was now dissolved. However, 

the Swedes demanded a referendum to clarify whether the nation as a whole 

was in agreement with this move. Further, Sweden demanded negotiations 

on the conditions for a dissolution of the union. 

195

The referendum took place in August of 1905. 368,392 Norwegians voted to 

end the union, 184 were against it. 

The negotiations with Sweden were held at Karlstad in August/September. 

The result was an agreement on a peaceful dissolution under certain 

conditions. 

Norway after 1905 

The issue of Norway's future form of government was hotly disputed. A 

referendum showed a large majority in favour of a monarchy rather than a 

republic. On 18 November 1905 the Storting chose the Danish prince Carl as 

King of Norway. He took the name Håkon VII, and entered his new kingdom 

at Oslo on 25 November, together with his English Queen Maud, the 

daughter of Edward VII, and the infant Crown Prince Olav, who later became 

King Olav V. The country's present monarch, King Harald, is the son of King 

Olav V, who passed away in 1991. 

When the union with Sweden was dissolved Norway was enjoying a period of 

economic growth, which lasted right up to WWI in 1914. The GNP rose by 55 

per cent, i.e. by an average 4 per cent per year. The population grew rapidly 

and the employment situation eased. This was a result of the second phase 

of the industrial revolution, which in Norway was characterized by the 

exploitation of cheap hydro-electricity, and foreign capital investments. For 

the first time in Norway the electrochemical and electrometallurgical 

industries were built up, and new products appeared on the market. Major 

concerns such as Norsk Hydro were established and a number of new 

industrial centres sprang up. 

Despite the economic progress made in Norway, a large number of 

Norwegians emigrated to the United States around the turn of the century. 

The labour movement had already been initiated in Norway prior to the 

dissolution of the union with Sweden. The first trade unions were formed in 

1872, and the Labour Party was founded in 1887. Universal suffrage was 

given to men in 1898 and to women in 1913. 

As early as the election of 1903 the Labour Party secured four mandates. In 

1912 26 per cent of the electorate cast their votes in its favour, and 23 

representatives were returned to the Storting. This made the party the second 

biggest in the national assembly, after the Liberals. The strikes and lockouts 

of 1911-12 tested the mettle of the Labour movement -- which waxed strong 

and more radical in the two years immediately before WWI. 

The first two years of industrialization, however, brought relatively modest 

changes in the country's social structure. As late as 1910 42 per cent of the 

work force was still engaged in agriculture and forestry. In 1920 the 

corresponding figure was 37 per cent. Today this figure has sunk to 6 per 

cent. 

Following the dissolution of the union, Norway had to build up a foreign office 

and a network of embassies and consulates. The resources available for this 

were extremely limited. The guidelines for foreign policy drawn up by the 

government of Christian Michelsen in 1905 stressed that Norway should 

refrain from entering alliances which could involve the country in wars. This 

policy of neutrality had the broad support of the people. However, Norway 

played an active part in the work of promoting international arbitration 

agreements. 

During WWI Norway remained neutral, but the Norwegian merchant fleet 

suffered heavy losses on account of the submarine war and the mining of the 

seas. About 2,000 seamen lost their lives. The war, however, brought 

considerable financial gains, which enabled the Norwegians to repurchase 

major companies which had passed into foreign ownership (Borregaard, the 

coalfields of Spitsbergen (Svalbard) etc.). In 1920, in the settlement following 

the war, Norway retained its sovereignty over Svalbard. 

At the General Election of 1918 the Liberals lost their majority in the national 

assembly. Right up to 1945 no single party was able to gain a majority in the 

Storting. This caused uneasy parliamentary conditions. In 1928 the Labour 

Party was able to form its first government, which, however, survived for only 

19 days after it was felled by a non-socialist majority. 

Prior to its first government the Labour Party had gone through a turbulent 

period. From 1921 to 1923 it was affiliated with the communist internationale. 

After the break with the latter, partly as a result of the required acceptance of 

the "dictatorship of the proletariat", the party started to gain ground at the 

elections. 

The depression that started in the 1920s also affected Norway. The 

government's currency policy intensified the problems. Trade and shipping 

suffered heavy losses. A number of banks crashed. The krone started to fall, 

and the lack of foreign currency was severe. State revenues diminished, and 

196

many of the municipalities were hard hit. Earnings, which had been high as a 

result of arbitration in 1920, were reduced under vehement protest from the 

workers, who at that time were strongly influenced by revolutionary 

viewpoints. The beginnings of both red and white guards were apparent. 

Unemployment was severe right up to the start of WWII. 

In 1932, however, an economic upswing started, which led to a drastic 

improvement of Norway's balance of payments. From 1935 to 1939 the 

national income rose by more than 1,400 million Norwegian kroner, a 

considerable sum for Norway at that time. 

In 1920 Norway became a member of the League of Nations, thus departing 

from its policy of isolation. The Nordic cooperation initiated during the war 

continued in the League of Nations, where the Nordic states pledged their 

support to peace-keeping measures, though avoided committing themselves 

to military sanctions. The president of the Norwegian Storting, Carl Joachim 

Hambro, was president of the League when WWII broke out. 

The imminent threat of war in the late 1930s brought defence issues into the 

forefront of Norwegian political debate. The socialists had previously strongly 

opposed granting funds to the military, and were partly supported in this view 

by the Liberals. Another reason for socialist skepticism towards defence was 

the fact that Vidkun Quisling, later to become a national socialist, led the 

Ministry of Defence in the early 1930s, as a cabinet minister in the Agrarian 

Party government. In 1936 the Labour Party again formed a government, with 

parliamentary support from the Agrarian Party. Johan Nygårdsvold became 

prime minister. Grants to defence were increased, though too late to have 

any real effect on Norway's military strength. At the outbreak of WWII in 1939 

Norway again proclaimed its neutrality. 

The Second World War 

Norway's declaration of neutrality was of little significance. On 9 April 1940 

German forces attacked Norway, which after a two-month struggle was 

subdued, despite some military assistance from Great Britain and France. 

The royal family, the government and some of the heads of the Ministry of 

Defence and the civil administration left for Great Britain, along with the 

withdrawing allied troops. During the war the Norwegian government carried 

out its work in exile. 

The Norwegian merchant fleet was the most important resource that the 

Norwegians put at the disposal of the allies. It consisted of more than 1,000 

ships, aggregating over 4 million gross tons. In Great Britain military units 

were built up again within all the services. They took part in the naval 

campaigns in the Atlantic, in the combat following the invasion of continental 

Europe in 1944, and in the air combat over the UK and the Continent. 

Towards the end of the war, the Swedes permitted Norway to build up military 

units in Sweden. Some of these took part in the campaigns against the 

German enemies. This happened after a Soviet force had attacked and 

liberated a small area of Norway in north east Finnmark, in Norway's far 

north. In occupied Norway civilian resistance grew from year to year. Secret 

military forces were also assembled and constituted something of a threat to 

the Germans. 

Norway was occupied right up to the German capitulation of 1945. At the time 

of the surrender there were no fewer than 400,000 German troops in Norway, 

which at that time had a population of barely 4 million. The occupation led to 

German exploitation of the Norwegian economy, and the Nazi reign of terror 

included executions and mass exterminations. But in comparison with the 

German conduct in many other occupied countries Norway escaped relatively 

light from the second world war. 

Liberation 

As early as 8 May 1945 Norwegian troops from the Resistance started to take 

over some positions from the Nazis. Gradually, allied and Norwegian troops 

from Great Britain and Sweden joined them. When the Germans laid down 

their arms, and the allied forces took over, the whole process ran very 

smoothly. The exiled government returned home from Britain and on 7 June 

King Håkon sailed into the port of Oslo on board a British naval vessel. 

From the German concentration camps came surviving Norwegians. At the 

end of the war 92,000 Norwegians were abroad, 46,000 of them in Sweden. 

In addition to the German occupiers there were 141,000 foreign nationals in 

Norway, most of them prisoners of war. 84,000 of the prisoners were 

Russians. 

During the course of the war the Germans had commandeered 40 per cent of 

Norway's GNP. In addition to this came the ravages of the war itself. In 

Finnmark these were considerable. Large areas were destroyed as a result of 

the "scorched earth" policy the Germans pursued during their retreat. Other 

towns and settlements were destroyed by bombs or deliberate burning. 

197

A total of 10,262 Norwegians lost their lives either during the war or whilst 

they were imprisoned. About 40,000 were put into prison. 

When the liberation came there was general accord that the rebuilding of 

Norway must be given top priority. 

At the election of 1945 the Labour Party gained a majority and appointed a 

government led by Einar Gerhardsen. Up to the election of 1961 it retained 

this majority, but in 1963 the Labour government was felled by a vote of no 

confidence in connection with circumstances surrounding an industrial 

accident on the island group of Svalbard. This led to the formation of the first 

post-war non-socialist government, headed by John Lyng. However, it was 

short-lived. 

The government's goal was to build up Norway within five years. It wished to 

force the pace of industrialization through concentrating on heavy industry. 

Developments went even faster than the politicians had planned. By 1946 

both industrial production and the domestic product were greater than they 

had been in 1938. By 1948/49 the country's real capital stood well over the 

prewar level. The subsequent years were a period of steady growth and 

progress. 

In the years immediately after WWII Norway maintained a very low profile in 

foreign policy. The intention was to remain well outside eventual conflicts 

between the major powers, as well as any bloc formations. It was hoped that 

the United Nations, under the leadership of its first Secretary General, 

Norwegian Trygve Lie, would be a sufficient guarantee of security. This 

safeguard was to replace that represented by the British safety guarantee, 

which Norwegian governments had relied on prior to 1940. This, however had 

not functioned when the Germans occupied Norway, but despite this, 

Norwegian loyalties were firmly with the West. 

As East/West tension gradually built up, Norwegian foreign policy was 

reorientated too. Norway played a part in the Marshall cooperation, albeit 

rather reluctantly to begin with. Through Marshall Aid Norway received 2.5 

thousand million kroner from 1948 to 1951. 

The Communist takeover in Czechoslovakia in 1948, and the Soviet Union's 

proposal for a defensive alliance along the lines of its pact with Finland 

triggered strong reaction in Norway. After an interim period when an abortive 

attempt was made to form a Nordic defence alliance, Norway joined NATO, 

alongside Denmark, in 1949. Since then a succession of opinions polls has 

confirmed that the Norwegians are overwhelmingly in favour of NATO 

membership. 

The social democratic party in Norway was heavily committed to curbing 

communist influence both in political life and in the mass organizations such 

as the trade unions; and the struggle ended in victory. While the Communist 

Party, at the first post-war election in 1945 returned 11 representatives (out of 

the total of 150), the mandates were reduced to zero by 1949. Subsequently, 

the communists have had only a peripheral influence in Norway, and at 

present the two communist parties only have one per cent voter support, 

according to opinions polls. They are, of course, not represented in 

parliament. 

The post-war years have been marked by steady progress in the Norwegian 

economy. The more plentiful resources have been spent on building up a 

welfare state, which has created a more egalitarian society than in many 

other Western countries. 

In the 1960s came the oil age. Exploring in the North Sea revealed rich finds, 

bringing considerable oil and gas production. Later, finds have also been 

registered in the Norwegian Sea and the Barents Sea. The major production 

now takes place in the Norwegian Sea, off central Norway. 

The petroleum age has led to a considerable restructuring of Norwegian trade 

and industry. The traditional industries -- labouring under sharply increased 

costs -- have had problems in competing internationally, and have had to cut 

back severely. The Norwegian economy has been beset by problems, which 

governments of varying political hues have struggled to overcome. 

Unemployment has also become a problem, although the statistics are 

among the lowest in Europe. 

Norway and the EU 

The biggest policy issue in Norway in the post-war years has been whether or 

not to join the Common Market, or the EU as it is now known. A non-socialist 

government, headed by the Centre Party's Per Borten as Prime Minister and 

supported by the Conservative Party, the Liberal Party, the Centre Party, and 

the Christian Democratic Party, was formed following the election victory in 

1965. When Great Britain applied for membership in 1967, the issue of 

Norwegian membership took on an added urgency. The Storting voted 136 to 

13 to renew a previous application from 1962. 

198

The application unleashed violent forces in Norwegian political opinion. Views 

became polarized, and the Borten government collapsed in 1971. A Labour 

Party government, led by Trygve Bratteli as Prime Minister, completed 

membership negotiations with the EC and submitted the results to a 

referendum in the fall of 1972. The outcome was 53 - 47 per cent vote 

rejecting membership in the EC. 

The Bratteli government resigned following the referendum. A centrist 

government, with Lars Korvald of theChristian Democratic Party as Prime 

Minister, conducted negotiations with the EC on a trade agreement, which 

regulated the relationship between Norway and the Common Market up to the 

beginning of the 1990s. 

The referendum on EC membership in 1972 left its mark on the Norwegian 

political party system. The Liberals split, and both of the new parties lost 

much of their influence. The general election of 1973 delivered a severe dropoff 

in support for the Labour Party among EC opponents outside the capital. 

Voters shifted their loyalty to the newly-established Socialist Electoral 

Association, which also swallowed up the Socialist Left Party and the 

communist voters. The Association captured 16 seats in the Storting. The 

Electoral Association was later succeeded by the Socialist Left Party, which 

today has the support of just over 6 per cent of the voters. 

Despite the setback of 1973, the Labour Party maintained a minority 

government through to 1981, when the Conservative Party took over power 

with Kåre Willoch as Prime Minister. In 1983 the purely Conservative Party 

government was expanded to a three-party government, with representatives 

from the Conservative Party, the Christian Democratic Party, and the Centre 

Party. The Willoch government held the majority in the Storting from 1981 to 

1985. Storting elections were held that year, and two representatives from the 

liberalistic Progress Party held the balance of power between the two major 

power blocks in the national assembly. The Progress Party sided with the 

socialist parties on a vote and the government was brought down. 

With the exception of a break of a year or so from 1989 to 1990, the Labour 

Party has held power in more recent years and formed minority governments, 

with Gro Harlem Brundtland as Prime Minister the whole time. 

During the short interval from 1989 to 1990, Norway had a non-socialist 

coalition government comprising the Conservatives, the Christian Democrats 

and the Centre Party, with Conservative Jan P. Syse as Prime Minister. 

The coalition was short-lived, primarily because the EC issue had cropped up 

again. The antagonism between the Conservatives (who favoured EC 

membership) and the Centre Party (who were against) eventually became so 

acute that the co-operative effort on governing the country eventually broke 

down. 

Another referendum was held in the fall of 1994. Once again, Norwegian 

rejected membership in what was by now known as the EU: 52.5 per cent 

voted against, while 47.5 per cent voted for. The EU issue attracted as much 

attention as it had in 1972. Voter turnout in 1994 was in fact 88.5 per cent, 

some 9.4 per cent up from the previous time. 

Sweden, Finland, and Austria had voted to join the EU shortly before the 

Norwegian vote, thereby leaving only Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, and 

Liechtenstein in the European Free Trade Association (EFTA) at the start of 

1995. 

In contrast to the Labour Party government of Trygve Bratteli, which in 1972 

resigned following the defeat on the EC issue, the Brundtland government 22 

years later continued on as though nothing had happened. 

Although the opposite sides of the EU debate in the 1994 referendum were 

very unyielding, both between political parties and also within parties, 

between occupational groups and between rural and urban voters, the 

situation normalised fairly quickly once the vote was over. 

Centre Party leader Anne Enger Lahnstein, who was the undisputed "No 

queen" during the referendum campaign, continued to fight after the vote 

against what her party called "continuous EU accommodation". This did not 

prevent the Centre Party from suffering considerable setbacks during the 

municipal elections in 1995, however. 

A reassuring factor for many has certainly been Gro Harlem Brundtland's 

statement to the effect that Norway will not likely attempt new membership 

negotiations with the EU in this century. 

Another very important consideration is that the Agreement on the European 

Economic Area (EEA), which was signed by the EU and the EFTA countries 

in 1992, ensures Norwegian participation in the development of the EEA, 

gives the country access to the EU common market and opens the door to 

co-operation in a number of adjacent areas. 

199

Under the Agreement, Norwegian industry is guaranteed equal terms of 

competition with other EFTA and EU countries on the Western European 

market. Institutions have also been established which give Norway influence 

over the formulation of new sets of rules in the areas covered by the 

Agreement. 

The writer of this article, Tor Dagre, is former editor in chief of Nytt fra 

Norge. 

200

Bergen – History 


About 1070 Olav Kyrre granted municipal status to Bjørgvin ("hill pasture"), 

then a port settlement of some importance on the east side of the Bergen 

peninsula. The town developed rapidly as an occasional royal residence. In 

1233, Håkon Håkonsson's hereditary right to the throne was recognized at a 

general assembly held here, and by 1240 Bergen was formally declared the 

capital of Norway in place of Trondheim. King Håkon Håkonsson held his 

court here. He was a very popular king and his reign was long and peaceful. 

His son, Magnus, married the Danish princess Ingeborg and the same day 

was crowned joint King of the land of Norway by his father. To celebrate the 

event, a great banquet was held in the hall now called Håkonshallen which 

stands at the entrance to the harbour of Bergen. 

As early as 1236 there were permanent German trading establishments in 

Bergen, but the town's rise to prosperity began with the establishment of a 

"counting house" of the Hanseatic League, first recorded in 1343. By virtue of 

the privilege granted by the Danish kings, the German merchants quickly 

gained control of the entire Norwegian trade. The people of the northern 

territories were required by royal decree to bring the produce of their fisheries 

to Bergen. The Hanseatic employees lived in a special quarter of town called 

Tyskebryggen ("German warf"). 

In 1599 the power of the Hanseatic League was broken by the feudal lord 

Kristofer Walckendorf, but the counting house remained in existence for 

another 200 years, By 1630, the power of the Hanseatic League was 

completely broken and in 1764, the last stue was sold to a Norwegian 

business. 

The Middle Ages saw the Black Death sweep over Europe. Norway was 

devastated, having half the population succumb to the pestilence. After this, 

from about 1420, and for about 400 years, the rule of Norway oscillated 

between Denmark and Sweden. Bergen, during this time, remained a major 

trading centre. It maintained international contact and the old, socially elite 

families of Bergen built up large trading empires. Life in Bergen was centered 

around fishing and shipping up until the present time when, during the 1980's, 

oil was discovered off the North Sea. Thus, with this discovery, Bergen 

entered an age of new prosperity and industry. In 1986, the bubble burst; the 

drop in oil prices caused an economic recession in Bergen. 

Bergen nowadays is still a centre for oil exploration, shipping and fishing but it 

has grown as a centre for environmental and oceanographic research in 

Norway. The future is brightening for "The Gateway to the Fjords". 

201


http://www.ses.dk/15e000c 


Christiansborg Palace on Slotsholmen in Copenhagen houses several very 

important institutions. The Danish Parliament has the majority of the palace's 

rooms at its disposal, while the Prime Minister's Office and the Supreme 

Court are also found within the palace. The Royal Reception Rooms in the 

palace's north wing, the palace church and most of the Riding Ground 

Complex are available to the Royal Family. 

As a result of two serious fires in 1794 and 1884, the palace complex bears 

testimony to three eras of Danish architecture. The main palace from 1928 in 

the historicist Neo-baroque style is the third Christiansborg on the site, the 

Chapel is from the second, neoclassical Christiansborg from the 1800s, and 

the Showgrounds survive from the first, luxurious baroque palace of the 

1700s. In the Riding Ground Complex, you can visit the Theatre Museum and 

The Royal Stables. 

Beneath Christiansborg visitors can see the ruins of two even older buildings 

on the site, namely Absalon's Castle and Copenhagen Castle. 

Immediately adjacent to Christiansborg Castle are The Royal Library 

Gardens. 

More about the palace 

Christiansborg Palace currently situated on Slotsholmen is the third palace of 

the name on the site. Before that, Absalon's Castle was built on the site in 

1167, followed by Copenhagen Castle, which Christian VI demolished 

immediately after his accession to the throne in 1730. Instead, he 

commissioned the architect Elias David Häusser to build the first 

Christiansborg Palace, a magnificent baroque castle with associated show 

grounds and palace chapel. Most of the castle complex was completed by 

1745. Fire ruined the castle and church in 1794, but the Showgrounds were 

saved. 

While the royal family lived in temporary accommodation at Amalienborg, the 

architect C.F. Hansen started to build the second Christiansborg in strict 

French Empire style in 1803. By the time the castle was finished in 1828, 

King Frederik VI had decided he did not want to live there after all and he only 

used the royal premises for entertainment purposes. The castle also housed 

the Parliament and served administrative goals. Frederik VII was the only 

monarch to live in the castle (1852-63). 

The second Christiansborg burnt down in 1884. This time, they managed to 

save C.F. Hansen's chapel as well as the Show Ground and the buildings 

linking the castle to the chapel and the ministerial buildings on 

Slotsholmsgade. 

Thorvald Jørgensen won an architecture competition to decide who should 

design the third Christiansborg, which was built from 1907-28. The castle was 

to contain premises for the royal family, the legislature and the judiciary, and 

was built in neo-Baroque style in reinforced concrete with granite covered 

facades. Fragments from C.F. Hansen's castle were preserved in the north 

facade facing Prince Jørgen's Yard. The original roof was tiled, but after a 

national collection, the tiles were replaced with copper in 1937-38. A weather 

vane with two crowns was later added to the tower and at 106 metres 

became the highest tower in the city. 

During the digging work, they came across the ruins of Absalon's Castle and 

Copenhagen Castle. It was decided to make them publicly accessible and the 

Ruins and Historical Exhibition opened to the public in 1924. 

The castle now houses the Royal Reception Rooms, the Queen's Library, the 

audience chambers, the Sovereign in Council rooms, Parliament, the 

Supreme Court and the Prime Minister's Office. 

202

Christiansborg Palace is owned by the Danish state and run by the Palaces 

and Properties Agency. 

The Royal Reception Rooms 

The Royal Reception Rooms at Christiansborg Palace are located on the first 

floor, the so-called bel-étage, at the north end of the main wing and in the 

wing running along the courtyard Prince Jørgens Gård. 

The Royal Reception Rooms are used for official functions of the Royal 

Family such as New Year Levee, reception of ambassadors or gala banquets. 

The Reception Rooms are richly adorned with works of art rescued from the 

two earlier palaces as well as decorations by some of the best Danish artists 

from the early 20th century. 

To visit the Royal Reception Rooms go 

through Dronningeporten (Queen's 

Gate), and through Drabantsalen 

(Guards' Room) you get to 

Kongetrappen (King's Stairway). At the 

foot of the stairs are Audiensgemakket 

(Audience Chamber) and Statsrådssalen 

(Council Room). The Queen holds an 

audience every other Monday and 

attends Council with the government as 

required. The Queen in Council signs new Acts after their adoption in 

Parliament. The Audience Chamber and the Council Room are the only Royal 

Reception Rooms that are closed to the public. 

The King's Stairway gives access to Tårnsalen (Tower Room). The Tower 

Room displays a series of tapestries with motifs from Danish folk songs, 

woven after cartoons painted by Joakim Skovgaard. The Royal Reception 

Rooms also include the oval Tronsal (Throne Room) where foreign 

ambassadors are received by Queen Margrethe. The Throne Room gives 

access to the balcony where the Danish monarchs are proclaimed. The 

Throne Room is decorated with a large ceiling painting by Kræsten Iversen, 

depicting how the Danish flag, Dannebrog, fell from the sky in Estonia in 

1219. 

The Great Hall is the largest and most spectacular of the Royal Reception 

Rooms. The Hall is 40 metres long with a ceiling height of 10 metres, and a 

gallery runs all the way around the room. The Great Hall was renovated on 

the occasion of Queen Margrethe's 60th birthday when artist Bjørn 

Nørgaard's 17 tapestries recounting the history of Denmark were hung on the 

walls. The tapestries were a gift from the Danish business community for 

Queen Margrethe's 50th birthday. 

The Royal Reception Rooms also include Fredensborgsalen (Fredensborg 

Room) with Lauritz Tuxen's painting of King Christian IX and his whole family 

together at Fredensborg Palace, as well as part of the Queen's Library. 

The Prime Minister uses the Royal Reception Rooms as well, particularly in 

connection with state visits. On such occasions the official banquet is often 

held in Alexandersalen (Alexander Room). The Alexander Room is decorated 

with Bertel Thorvaldsen's marble frieze "Alexander the Great Enters 

Babylon". The frieze was made for the second Christiansborg Palace, and 

parts of it survived the fire. It was later restored and mounted in this room. 

You can take a guided tour of the Royal Reception Rooms. 

Queen Margrethe II's Tapestries 

The Danish business community marked the occasion of Her Majesty Queen 

Margrethe II's 50th birthday in 1990 by ordering a gift of 11 tapestries from Le 

Mobilier National et les Manufactures Nationales de Gobelins et de Beauvais, 

Paris (commonly referred to as les Gobelins). The project was funded by a 

range of Danish companies and foundations as well as the French state 

Bjørn Nørgaard painted the full-size sketches (known as cartoons) upon 

which the tapestries were woven. The gobelin series recounts the history of 

Denmark and the world, including the Viking Age, the Middle Ages, the 

Absolute Monarchy, the Reformation, World War II, the Present and even the 

Future. The Danish royal family and references to the artist’s earlier works 

are skilfully woven into the greater context. 

It takes a very long time to make tapestries, so it was not until 2000, on the 

occasion of the Queen's 60th birthday, that the tapestries were finally hung in 

their rightful home: the Great Hall in Christiansborg Palace, which has been 

specially restored for the purpose. 

During the official inauguration on 12 April 2000, the Queen expressed the 

desire that the 17 tapestries should belong to the whole Danish nation and 

donated them to the state. 

203

To see the real tapestries please join a guided tour in the Royal Reception 

Rooms. 

Christiansborg Palace Chapel 

The history of Christiansborg Palace Chapel goes back to the first 

Christiansborg Palace, built by the contractor general Elias David Häusser 

from 1733-45. Christian VI was keen on architecture and he commissioned a 

talented young architect in the King's building service, Niels Eigtved, to 

design the palace chapel (1738-42). Eigtved seized the opportunity and 

designed one of the most distinguished Rococo interiors in Denmark. 

In 1794, fire ravaged the castle and it was decided to demolish the ruins 

completely. The demolition never took place, however. 

The master builder of Altona, C.F. Hansen, was called to the capital city to 

resurrect the castle. In 1810, he was also commissioned to rebuild the palace 

chapel. Work commenced in 1813, using the existing foundations and 

masonry as far as possible. The church and main castle were built in strict 

neo-classical style, with a dome construction on top of a central church 

interior. The palace chapel was inaugurated on Whit Sunday, 14 May 1826, 

to mark the 1,000 anniversary of the introduction of Christianity to Denmark. 

The second castle fire in 1884 spared the church, as the fire was stopped in 

the buildings linking it to the castle. However, fate finally caught up with the 

church 7 June 1992. The church burned to the ground, probably set ablaze 

by fireworks set off during the Whitsun carnival. 

During the 1992 church fire, the roof, dome and dividing floor were burned 

down and the inventory severely damaged. Shortly afterwards, the Palaces 

and Properties Agency began rebuilding the chapel in collaboration with Erik 

Møller's Drawing Studio A/S and Royal Inspector of Listed State Buildings 

Jens Fredslund. 

No drawings existed of the dome and roof, but a systematic exercise in 

building archaeology registered the charred remains of the building and made 

it possible to recreate the dome and roof. Historically accurate building 

methods were also used throughout the rebuilding process. 

Danish craftsmen were unable to undertake the difficult work of restoring and 

recreating the internal marbled stucco. One of Germany’s leading experts, 

Manfred Siller, took charge and taught the venerable technique to Danish 

stucco workers. 

The rebuilt church was inaugurated on 14 January 1997 to celebrate Queen 

Margrethe II’s silver jubilee. The rebuilding was awarded the prestigious 

Europa Nostra Prize. 

The Riding Ground Complex 

Immediately after his accession to the throne in 1730, Christian VI 

demolished the overextended and antiquated Copenhagen Castle. In 1733, 

work started on a magnificent baroque castle under the supervision of the 

architect Elias David Häusser. 

By 1738, work on the main castle had progressed so far that it was possible 

to start on the other buildings included in the total project. 

The Show Grounds are now all that remain of the first Christiansborg Castle. 

They consist of two symmetrical wings with a straight, low and narrow stable 

building followed by a high broad building and narrow, curved stables, after 

which a one-storey narrow end building closes off the wings at the 

Frederiksholm Canal end. 

In 1742, the north wing became the first one to be finished. Building work on 

the south wing started in June 1740 but ground to a halt by the autumn due to 

difficulties in obtaining supplies. Work did not recommence until January 

1744, now under the supervision of the young architect Niels Eigtved. 

Eigtved's superior artistic insight meant it turned out more beautiful than the 

north wing. In 1746, 87 hunting horses and 165 carriage horses moved into 

the new stables, the largest number ever. 

In 1766-67, the architect N.H. Jardin built a court theatre on the floor above 

the big stables. It now houses the Theatre Museum. 

The Marble Bridge and the pavilions in Häusser's original project the two 

wings were linked by a gatehouse at the Frederiksholm Canal end and a 

drawbridge lead over the canal. The Castle Building Commission was not 

completely satisfied with the proposal and asked two young architects 

working for the royal building authority, Niels Eigtved and Lauritz de Thurah, 

to come up with an alternative suggestion. 

Their proposal included a permanent bridge over Frederiksholm Canal 

forming the main entrance to the castle and two portal pavilions flanking an 

204

open drive and closing the complex off between the two wings. Both bridge 

and pavilions were in the new rococo style. 

Responsibility was transferred to Eigtved, who was the prime mover behind 

the project. 

The bridge was extremely elegant - sandstone covered with medallion 

decorations by the sculptor Louis-Augustin Le Clerc. The pavements were 

paved with Norwegian marble - hence the name the Marble Bridge - and the 

roadway paved with cobblestones. 

The pavilions were every bit as magnificent as the bridge. They were covered 

with sandstone from Sachsen, and the sculptor J.C. Petzold richly decorated 

the concave roofs with the royal couple's back-to-back monograms and four 

figures on each roof symbolising the royal couple's positive traits. The interior 

decoration was by the court's master stonemason Jacob Fortling. The bridge 

and pavilions were finished in 1744. 

In 1996, when Copenhagen was European city of Culture, the Palaces and 

Properties Agency finished a restoration of the Show Grounds that had taken 

many years. The Marble Bridge and Pavilions were restored between 1978 

and 1996 by architect Erik Hansen and the Show Grounds from 1985-1996 

by Royal Inspector of Listed State Buildings Gehrdt Bornebusch. 

Christiansborg Show Grounds is owned by the Danish state, run by the 

Palaces and Properties Agency and placed at the disposal of the Court and 

the Parliament. The Supreme Court and Theatre Museum also have 

premises there. 

The Royal Library Gardens 

The Royal Library Gardens are located on Slotsholmen in the middle of 

Copenhagen's political, literary and financial area - between Christiansborg 

Palace (Parliament) and the Royal Library - and in the immediate vicinity of 

the Ministry of Finance and Christian IV's old Stock Exchange building. 

The garden constitutes a small oasis in the heart of the city and is popular 

with locals and tourists all year round. Only the shallow pool in the middle of 

the gardens reveals that this was once the site of a harbour. Today, it is the 

site of blossoming beds of flowers and large shadowy trees. The silence is 

broken occasionally, however. The new water sculpture in the middle of the 

central pool spouts out cascades 

of water every hour on the hour. 

History 

The gardens were designed in 

1920 by landscape gardener Jens 

Peder Andersen and castle 

architect Thorvald Jørgensen. 

They were built on top of Christian 

IV's old naval port, Tøjhushavnen. 

As a reminder of its maritime past, 

a small pond has been retained in 

the middle of the gardens and an 

old mooring ring of the type used by ships in the 17th and 18th centuries has 

been built into the masonry at the end of the gardens. 

Statues and sculptures 

A 1918 bronze statue of Søren Kierkegaard by the sculptor Louis Hasselriis is 

found in the middle of the gardens. Kierkegaard appears absorbed in his own 

thoughts with his gaze directed towards a point on the other side of the wall 

where his fiancée, Regine Olsen, is said to have lived. 

Vegetation 

The wide variety of flowers in the gardens change with the seasons. Visitors 

can enjoy the view from rows of benches in the shade of the trees or from 

others out in the sun along the wall between the gardens and the yard to the 

Danish National Archives. Column plinths from the old Christiansborg serve 

as epergnes in the four grassy corner pieces and the principal axis through 

the gardens creates a link between the yard to the Danish National Archives 

and the main entrance to the Royal Library. 

The Ruins beneath Christiansborg Palace 

Beneath the present Christiansborg Palace lie the ruins of Bishop Absalon's 

castle and Copenhagen Palace. When the foundations of the present 

Christiansborg Palace were being cast, workers came across ruins of several 

buildings and parts of a curtain wall. Experts were called in from the National 

Museum and the ruins, which lay beneath the inner palace yard, were 

205

unearthed. Public interest in these ruins, which dated back to around the year 

1167, was tremendous. It was therefore decided that the ruins should not be 

covered over again but preserved for posterity. The reinforced concrete 

structure erected to cover the ruins was the biggest of its kind in Denmark 

when it was built in 1908. 

The ruins beneath the palace square were excavated in 1917 and a cover 

was also built over them. The ruins have been open to the public since 1924. 

The Ruins Exhibition was renovated during the period 1974-77 and has 

remained more or less untouched since then. 

Absalon's Castle 

According to Saxo, Bishop Absalon 

of Roskilde built a castle in 1167 

on a small island outside 

Copenhagen Harbour. The castle 

was surrounded by a curtain wall 

of limestone from Stevns Cliffs. 

The remains of this curtain wall are 

preserved in the ruins beneath 

Christiansborg, and it can be seen 

from the ruins how the wall was 

constructed. From Absalon’s 

Castle, the foundations of some 

houses which lay within the curtain wall and a well have also been preserved. 

The well, a so-called hulk well made from hollowed out oak trunks, contained 

when it was excavated several building fragments of marble, believed to 

originate from a church which must have lain within the Bishop’s castle. 

Absalon's Castle stood for 200 years, and the ruins allow us to follow how the 

castle's owners developed and renewed the castle. The castle was frequently 

under attack, for example by Wend pirates and the Hanseatic cities, and 

during the years 1249 to 1259 it was occupied and plundered. In 1369 the 

castle was taken by the enemies of Valdemar Atterdag from the Hansa 

League. The Hanseatic cities sent stonemasons to demolish the castle stone 

by stone. The castle had long been a terrible nuisance to the Hanseatic cities' 

trade in the Sound, and the time had now come to remove it. Since Denmark 

had considerable interests to defend in the area a new castle was soon built 

in its stead: 

Copenhagen Castle 

During the years after the demolition of Bishop Absalon's castle by the Hansa 

League in 1369, the ruins on the island were covered with earthworks, on 

which the new stronghold - Copenhagen Castle - was built. 

The castle had a curtain wall and was surrounded by a moat and with a large, 

solid tower as an entrance gate. The castle was still the property of the 

Bishop of Roskilde until King Erik of Pomerania usurped the rights to the 

castle in 1417. From then on the castle in Copenhagen was occupied by the 

king. 

The castle was rebuilt several times. King Christian IV, for example, added a 

spire to the large entrance tower, which under the name of the Blue Tower 

gained a reputation as a prison. In the 1720s, Frederik IV entirely rebuilt the 

castle, but it became so heavy that the walls began to give way and to crack. 

It was therefore evident to Frederik IV's successor, Christian VI, that an 

entirely new castle had to be built and in 1731 the demolition of Copenhagen 

Castle was commenced to make room for the first Christiansborg. 

King Christian IX's equestrian statue on the Riding 

Ground Complex 

Shortly after the death of King 

Christian IX in 1906 a collection 

was started for the construction of a 

monument to him. Four artists were 

invited to take part in a competition 

in 1907. There was no discussion 

about the position of the statue. It 

would be erected on Christiansborg 

Riding Ground Complex as a 

pendant to the statue of King 

Frederik VII on the Palace Square. 

The sculptor Anne Marie Carl 

Nielsen, the wife of the composer 

Carl Nielsen, won the competition 

with her proposal for a new 

equestrian statue. 

In the proposal, the statue was shown on a high pedestal, on the sides of 

which were reliefs depicting a procession of the leading men of the day, 

including the industrialist C.F. Tietgen, the politician J.B. Estrup and the poets 

206

J.P. Jacobsen and Holger Drachmann. The reliefs were later axed, and the 

architect Andreas Clemmensen designed the pedestal that bears the horse 

today. 

The sculptor sought throughout the country for the right horse to stand as a 

model, but found it in Hanover in Germany. This gave rise to a good deal of 

displeasure among Danish horse breeders. 

The monument took a long time to complete, but in 1927, 21 years after the 

king's death, it was unveiled on the Riding Ground Complex. 

The Museums on Slotsholmen 

The Danish Jewish Musem 

The unique architecture tells a story in itself and is a tribute to the rescue of 

the Danish Jews in 1943. The exhibition “Space and spaciousness - an 

exhibition about Jews in Denmark” shows 400 years of Jewish history in 

Denmark. 

Proviantpassagen 6, København K, Open July Tue-Sun 10am– 5pm , tel +45 

3311 2218 / www.jewmus.dk 

The Black Diamond - The Royal Library 

Great modern architecture at the harbour front. During the summer of 2005 

two exhibitions are shown: “Surfacing Souls” portraits by photographer 

Rigmor Mydtskov and “The Poet’s Theatre Dreams” about Hans Christian 

Andersen’s passion for the theatre. 

Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1, København K, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, tel 

+45 3347 4747 / www.kb.dk 

The Castle Ruins under Christiansborg Palace 

Beneath the present palace are the enjoyably spooky underground ruins of 

the previous castles on the site. The archaeological excavations and a 

historical exhibition present the more than 800-year history of the palace as a 

medieval castle and royal residence. 

The Theatre Museum in the Court Theatre 

Museum for the stage history of Danish theatres with special exhibitions 

during the year. This summer: "Harald Lander", "Krøyer and the Theatre", 

"Andersen's Stage" and "The Ballet Master Bournonville". 

Christiansborg Ridebane 18, København K, 

Open Tue - Thur 11am-15pm, Sat-Sun 13pm-16pm, tel +45 3311 5176 / 

www.teatermuseet.dk 

Thorvaldsens Museum 

The characteristic and colourful museum is a fascinating combination of 

architecture, painting, antique art and Thorvaldsen’s sculptures. Special 

exhibition this summer: “ Writing is an Act of Love – An Exhibition on Hans 

Christian Andersen's Diaries and Almanacs” 

Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads 2, København K , Open Tue-Sun 10am–5pm 

Tel +45 3332 1532 / www.thorvaldsensmuseum.dk 

The Royal Danish Arsenal Museum 

The museum has a fine collection of artillery and hand weapons dating from 

the Middle Ages to the present. Information on special exhibitions and live 

demonstrations of weapons, see www.thm.dk 

Tøjhusgade 3, København K, Open Daily in July 10am-4pm, tel +45 3311 

6037 / www.thm.dk 

Transport: 

Bus 1A, 2A, 15, 26, 29, 66 

Harbour Bus 901 og 902 

Metro Kongens Nytorv 

207

Rosenborg Castle 

http://www.rosenborgslot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/omslottet_2.asp?countryI 

D=2 

The History of Rosenborg Castle 

Rosenborg Castle stands today, with its tall towers and its red masonry with 

sandstone ornaments, as a distinguished example of Christian IV's many 

building projects, perfect despite many changes during its construction 

history. The Castle is built in the special Dutch Renaissance style which 

became typical of Danish buildings during this period. A couple of architects, 

Bertel Lange and Hans van Steenwinckel, are associated with the Castle. 

Christian IV's own effort is often discussed but there is no doubt that he came 

up with many of the ideas. 

The history of the Castle goes back to 1606-1607, when the King in a newly 

laid out park, “The King's Garden” (“Kongens Have”), had a “summerhouse” 

built. The capital's old medieval castle, Copenhagen Castle, was hardly the 

ideal residence for a young and ambitious Renaissance ruler. Christian IV 

preferred Frederiksborg Castle, 35 km away from the city, but it was, of 

course, more convenient also to have a residence somewhat closer to the 

capital. 

The summerhouse, which today makes up the core of the southern half of 

Rosenborg, was two storeys, with a spire-crowned stair turret facing the city 

and two bays to the east. In 1611 a gate tower with a drawbridge was built; it 

forms the central part of the current gate house. 

In 1613-1615 the summerhouse was extended. The present length was thus 

attained, but there were still only two storeys. There were two bays to the 

east and a stair turret between them. 

The house was habitable from 1615 but construction commenced the 

following year. The storey containing the Long Hall was added, and the bays 

were converted into the existing spire-crowned towers. The Great Tower was 

built on the west side. The building was concluded in 1624 and the same year 

Christian IV referred to his “Great House in the Garden” as Rosenborg for the 

first time. 

However, the Castle still lacked a suitable entrance to the official chambers 

on the first and second floors. And that became an urgent matter when 

Christian IV was to host his son Christian's sumptous wedding to Magdalena 

Sibylla in 1634. The existing stair turret was torn down and replaced with the 

current one and an outer double staircase was built, which went from the 

outer doors at the side towers to the first floor. To begin with, the inner 

staircase of the turret only connected to the first and second floors. It was 

only extended to ground level in 1758, when the outer staircase was 

demolished. 

Rosenborg as a Royal residence 

Rosenborg was used as a Royal residence until around 1710, when Christian 

IV's great grandson, Frederik IV, gave it up in favour of other, more up-todate, 

summer residences. Rosenborg Castle instead became the setting for 

the Royal collections. That is the reason for the many well preserved interiors 

which are quite unique. 

In the original arrangement of the Castle the ground floor comprised of the 

private apartments. The King had the northern part and the Queen lived in the 

southern part. In the central area there was a transverse entrance hall. From 

here a wooden staircase led to the first floor, where all of the southern part 

was taken up by the “Red Hall”, a ballroom in the earliest summerhouse. In 

the central part there was an antechamber and in the northern part, the King 

had his audience room. The room division around The Great Hall on the top 

floor is unaltered. During the reign of Frederik III the King and the Queen 

exchanged apartments on the ground floor, and the rooms were decorated to 

be fit for an absolute ruler. Frederik III also had an “ascending chair” (a lift) 

installed in the North Tower. 

208

Frederik IV was more radical. The transverse hall was divided into the Stone 

Passage and the Dark Room, which the King had furnished as a conjugal 

bedroom for the Royal couple. The first storey was changed to its present 

floor plan. 

After the reign of Frederik IV, Rosenborg was only used as a Royal residence 

twice; both times were emergencies: after Christiansborg Palace burned 

down in 1794 and during the British attack on Copenhagen in 1801. 

The Collections 

Rosenborg has a long museum tradition. The core consisted of Christian IV's 

magnificent collection of riding trappings and parade arms, which were 

transferred from Frederiksborg Castle in 1658. Soon after the King's 

costumes followed together with heirlooms and precious artifacts. During the 

reign of Christian V the Regalia were transferred from Copenhagen Castle, 

and during the reign of Frederik IV collections of glass and porcelain arrived, 

as well as the art collections of the dukes of Holstein, captured from Gottorp 

Castle. 

The Crown Jewels were originally bequeathed for the use of the reigning 

Queen, because “in this Royal Family there have been so few jewels, and no 

Crown Jewels at all”, as the benefactress, Queen Sophie Magdalene, wrote 

in her will in 1746. 

In the early 19th century it was suggested that the Royal collections should 

be opened to the public. The scientist and Court official A.W. Hauch drew up 

a plan in 1813, innovative in its principle of exhibition. The earlier “theme” 

rooms were to be replaced with interior exhibitions which followed successive 

Royal generations chronologically. A walk round the museum would thus be a 

journey through the history of Denmark from Christian IV to the present day. 

The Castle was opened to the public in 1838. 

After the abolishment of Absolutism in 1849, the Royal castles and palaces 

became state property. In 1854 Frederik VII agreed with the state that the 

collection was to become entailed property passed on from king to king. 

209



ryID=2 

When Christian VIII's Mansion was restored in 1994 a museum was 

established on the ground floor. It houses exhibitions covering the period 

1863-1972 and spans four generations of the Glücksburg line: Christian IX, 

Frederik VIII, Christian X and Frederik IX. 

The history of Amalienborg Palace 

Amalienborg Palace is named after Frederik III's Queen, Sophie Amalie, who 

had the Sophie Amalienborg Palace built on the site in 1667-1673. The 

Palace burned down in 1689, but the Palace garden remained until 1748, 

when it had to make way for Frederiksstaden, the new part of the city 

Frederik V had laid out on the occasion of the 300 years anniversary of the 

Oldenburg line. 

The Amalienborg Museum 

The museum in Christian VIII's Mansion at Amalienborg Palace is a 

continuation of the Royal Collections at Rosenborg Castle. With the 

arrangement of Frederik VII's Room in the late 19th century, Rosenborg's 

exhibitions on the Oldenburg Kings were complete. The limited space at the 

Castle was then used to its limit. If the reigns of later Kings were to be 

illustrated, it would have to be at a different location. 

Taking a French model, the architect Nicolai Eigtved gave the new quarter a 

monumental centre in the present Amalienborg Palace: an octagonal 

courtyard with an equestrian statue of the King at the centre, surrounded by 

four identical Rococo mansions. The courtyard is cut by two perpendicular 

streets, of which the grandest leads from the harbour, then the main artery of 

Copenhagen, to the Marble Church. One of Europe's finest examples of the 

staging of Absolutism, Amalienborg Palace was occupied by several noble 

families until the Royal Family moved in after Christiansborg Palace burned 

down in 1794. 

210



The Disaster 

In the early 17th century, Sweden was busy building an empire around the 

Baltic Sea in northern Europe. A strong navy was essential. During the 1620s 

Sweden was at war with Poland. In 1625 the Swedish king Gustavus 

Adolphus ordered new warships. Among them the Vasa. 

The Vasa set sail and fired a salute. But only after a few minutes of sailing the 

ship began to heel over. She righted herself slightly - and heeled over again. 

Water started to gush in through the open gunports. And, to every ones 

horror and disbelief, the glorious and mighty warship suddenly sank! Of the 

150 people on board, 30-50 died in the disaster. When Vasa had been 

salvaged in 1961, archaeologists found the remains of 25 skeletons. After the 

disaster the captain of the Vasa - Söfring Hansson - was arrested. The 

Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus was not in Sweden at the time. He was 

waging war in Poland. It took two weeks for him to learn about what had 

happened. When he did, he wrote angrily that the disaster had happened 

because of "imprudence and negligence" and that the guilty parties had to be 

punished. Söfring Hansson and many others were called to inquiries at the 

Royal Castle of Stockholm. 

At the inquest people were troubled by the fact that the shipbuilder Henrik 

Hybertsson had died the year before the Vasa was completed. Instead his 

brother and partner, Arendt de Groot, was held responsible for the completion 

of the ship. But in the end no one was condemned for causing the disaster. 

The people in charge of the inquiries concluded that the ship was well built - 

but badly proportioned. 

Why did the Vasa sink? 

In the 17th century there were no scientific methods of calculating a ship's 

stability. It was not uncommon that warships heeled over and sank. Their 

cargo - the guns - were placed relatively high up in the ship, whereas 

merchant-vessels stored their cargo in the hold, ie in the bottom of the ship. 

The Vasa was built at the Stockholm shipyard by Henrik Hybertsson – an 

experienced Dutch shipbuilder. His experience was much needed as the 

Vasa was to be the mightiest warship in the world, armed with 64 guns on two 

gundecks. 

In 1628 the ship was ready. Sunday August 10 was the day of the Vasa's 

maiden voyage. The beaches around Stockholm were filled with spectators, 

among them foreign diplomats. The maiden voyage was to be an act of 

propaganda for the ambitious Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus. 

Instead of using calculations, the 17th century shipbuilders used so called 

reckonings, which recorded certain ship-measurements. However, the 

reckonings used in building the Vasa were intended for smaller ships with 

only one gun deck. The Vasa was built differently. She had two gun decks 

with heavy artillery (when the norm was to place lighter guns on the upper 

gun deck). The standard rules obviously did not apply here. 

Deep down in the Vasa several tons of stone were stored as ballast. They 

were meant to give the ship stability. However, the main reason for the Vasa 

capsizing was that the ballast was not enough as counter weight to the guns, 

the upper hull, masts and sails of the ship. In the inquiries after the Vasa 

disaster it was revealed that a stability test had been performed prior to the 

maiden voyage. Thirty men had run back and forth across the Vasa's deck 

when she was moored a tthe quay. The men had to stop after three runs, well 

211

efore the testcould be completed - otherwise, the ship would have capsized. 

Present was Admiral Klas Fleming, one of the most influential men in the 

Navy. His only comment to the failed stability test was "If only His Majesty 

were at home!" After that he let the Vasa make her maiden voyage. 

Who, then, were to blame for the disaster? 

Admiral Fleming. Partly. He could have stopped the ship after the stability 

test. On the other hand, the ship was already complete and the king was 

waiting impatiently in Polish Prussia.King Gustavus Adolphus. Partly. He was 

anxious to acquire a ship withas many heavy guns as possible. He had also 

approved the Vasa'sdimensions and was keen to have her completed rapidly. 

The shipbuilder Henrik Hybertsson. Partly. Although he built the hull too 

narrow, he was a skilled shipbuilder who had previously built many good 

ships. His unexpected death the previous year just complicated matters. 

The captain Söfring Hansson. According to a new theory the capsizing of the 

Vasa may be blamed on the captain. He sailed a brand new ship with open 

gunports. The Vasa sank when water gushed in through the lower gunports! It 

would have been wiser to test the new ship on her maiden voyage with 

closed gunports. 

However, the inquiries showed that no one could really be blamed forthe 

disaster. The main reason being the insufficient theoretical knowhow of the 

period. The Vasa was something new - a military experiment. After the Vasa, 

many successful ships were built with two, three and even four gun decks. 

The shipbuilders learned from their mistakes with the Vasa and improved 

later designs. 

Discovery and Salvaging 

On April 24 1961, the warship Vasa broke the surface of Stockholm´s harbour 

after 333 years on the sea bottom. At that time the "Vasa adventure" had 

been going on for five years. After many years of hard work the shipwreckspecialist 

Anders Franzén finally found the Vasa in1956. He quickly found 

support for the idea of salvaging the ship. 

The Vasa was located 30 metres beneath the surface. The Swedish Navy's 

heavy divers, under the leadership of head diver Per Edvin Fälting, dived 

down to the ship. They managed to flush six tunnels in the mud beneath her, 

using specially made nozzles. Steel cables were drawn through the tunnels. 

Two lifting pontoons on the surface were to lift the ship using the cables. In 

August 1959 the time came for the first lift. There was great uncertainty. 

Would the old wooden ship remain in one piece? It did. In 16 stages the Vasa 

was lifted to more shallow water, there she was made watertight and 

strengthened before the final lift – to the surface! 

On the day the Vasa broke surface Sweden stood still. Press, radio and TV 

from all over the world were there. Swedish television broadcast live - 

something very unusual at the time. There was hardly a TV-set to be bought 

in Sweden any more - they were all sold out. The school children played 

truant and the industries stopped. It was even calm at the maternity hospitals, 

a surprised nurse told the press. 

At 9.03 on April 24 1961 the proud royal warship Vasa broke surface.The first 

to go on board was Anders Franzén and Per Edvin Fälting. During that 

summer the ship was excavated by archaeologists. An untouched part of the 

17th century had warped into the 20th century! 

In 1962 the temporary Vasa Museum - the Wasavarvet - opened. The ship 

and all the finds were preserved - an effort of gigantic proportions. The Vasa 

is the biggest single object that has ever been preserved. A chemical 

substance called polyethylenglycol (PEG) was used. It replaces water in 

wooden objects to prevent them fromshrinking when dried. 

In 1990 the new Vasa Museum was inaugurated. 

Built for Battle 

When the Vasa set sail in 1628 she was one of the mightiest warship iin the 

world. With 64 guns and 300 soldiers she was to put fear in the hearts of the 

enemy. Warships specially built for carrying heavy artillery have existed since 

the early 16th century. But it took a few decades before the guns determined 

how the battles would end. When warships met they usually fired a few shots 

at each other and then entered close combat. The decisive moment was the 

boarding. 

Soldiers jumped aboard the enemy vessel. The goal was to capture the other 

ship - not to sink it. 

Around 1650 - a few decades after the Vasa - this changed. At that time the 

ship-of-the-line-tactics made its breakthrough. The enemy fleets formed long 

lines and shot at each other. Close combat was no longer the most important 

thing. 

212

The warship Vasa is clearly from the transition between intense close combat 

and the ship-of-the-line-tactics. She is armed with an extremely powerful 

artillery - and at the same time well fitted out for close combat. The high stern 

makes a good platform for firing down at the enemy. The 300 soldiers could 

have been used for capturing enemy warships. 

and 60, was usually taken on active service. Many of them never returned 

home. 

The seamen and the soldiers lived, ate and slept between the guns on the 

gundecks. On the Vasa seven men had to share living quarters between 

every two guns. It would have been extremely crowded. The food was bad. 

Beans, porridge or salted fish. And lots of beer. Fresh food was most 

unusual. As a result scurvy and other deficiency diseases were common in 

the Navy. Many people died - but very few in battle. 

1628 was a bad year for the men in the Swedish Navy. Admiral Henrik 

Fleming's squadron off the Polish coast is a good example. Two-thirds of the 

men on the ships were sick, dying or dead - or "cast overboard" as the 

Admiral writes. On Fleming's own ship there was only 19 men fit for work, 

instead of 115. 

The Vasa had heavy 24-pound guns on both her lower and upper gundeck. 

The standardized artillery was an experiment with supposedly great 

advantages. By limiting the number of sizes of cannon-balls and gun powdercharges 

the warship became more effective. Unfortunately the heavy guns on 

the upper gun deck was one of the reasons why the Vasa capsized. 

Life on Board 

When the Vasa set sail on her maiden voyage in the summer of 1628 there 

were approximately 150 people on board. Most of them were seamen. The 

ship was on it's way to Älvsnabben in the Stockholm archipelago, where 300 

soldiers were waiting to board the ship. 

In those days the Swedish fleet was largely manned by conscription. 

Professional seamen were scarce. One man in ten, between the ages of 15 

Another nuisance was boredom. For long periods nothing happened on board 

a man-of-war. The ships were anchored or on blockade duty. When battles 

where scarce - the crew spent their time performing drills, various 

maintenance work - and played board and dice games. The officers preferred 

backgammon. 

The officers slept in bunks - not on the decks as the seamen and soldiers did. 

They also ate slightly better food. The Admiral's cabin on board the Vasa is 

as decorated as a room in a castle. But not even the officers lived a life of 

luxury on board. 

Vasa - an art treasure 

The Vasa is not merely a ship - she is also an art treasure. Around 700 

sculptures and ornaments decorate the warship. Most of them relate, in a 

symbolic way, how the Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus wished the world to 

see him and Sweden. Also as the Vasa was built during the war between 

Sweden and Poland there are also elements to degrade the enemy. Today 

we may call the sculptures pure propaganda. 

213

The first sculpture salvaged from the Vasa was a roaring lion´s head from one 

of the gunports. There are many lion figures among the sculptures. The most 

impressive one is the figure-head, located furthest out on the beak-head. It is 

three metres long and has been interpreted as a symbol of the king himself. 

Gustavus Adolphus was known as "the Lion of the North" in contemporary 

Europe. 

The woodcarvers who made the sculptures were not Swedish. Instead, they 

came from Holland and Germany. They carved in oak, pine and lime, in the 

style of the late Renaissance and early Baroque. The motifs were taken from 

Greek mythology, the Bible, Roman history and in the contemporary, 

idealistic ideas of Swedish history. The carvings vary from the erotic and 

burlesque, to the eserene and elegant, with stern Roman emperors, plump 

angels, heroic warriors, grinning devils and mermaids. There are some with 

courser elements, like the vulgar woman with large breasts, licking her nose 

with her tongue. Right now experts are trying to find out exactly how the 

sculptures were painted. In 1628 the Vasa would have been blazing in bright 

colours of gold, green, red and blue. 

However, with the help of research, a different picture of the ship is emerging. 

Hundreds of microscopic paint fragments have been analysed and interpreted 

over a 12-year period. 

The research has now reached a stage where we are able to reconstruct the 

painting of around 15 key sculptures, which is why we can now confidently 

say that we know the principles applied when painting the ship. Strong, clear 

colours, in some places supplemented with gilding, were characteristic of the 

Vasa’s colouring. 

The Rigging 

With her masts, shrouds and stays, the Vasa of today is almost as 

handsome as when she set sail in 1628. 

Vasa´s Colours 

The warship Vasa is swarming with Roman warriors, friendly mermaids, 

irascible lions and Greek gods. Just like the Vasa's hull, the sculptures are 

now a dark brown due to their time in the water and the conservation process. 

Photo: Stefan Evensen /SMM 

The process of rigging the Vasa took several years. The scientific work began 

in the late 1960's, when curator Eva-Marie Stolt started looking into how the 

very complicated system of masts and rig looked like in 1628. Using this 

research as a platform, the practical work could start in 1992, supervised by 

the Vasa Museum's rig expert Olof Pipping. 

The unique rigging of a 17th century warship gave him the opportunity to 

share his knowledge with three apprentices. 1992.During the autumn the 

214

owsprit was mounted. In the end of the year, the work on the rigging started. 

Four kilometres of rope (made of hemp) were to be used. 

1993. In March, the first mast - the foremast - was mounted. In June, the 

mainmast was raised. At that time the ship's discoverer Anders Franzén, took 

the opportunity to place a coin for good luck beneath the mast (such a coin 

was not in the place when the Vasa made her first and last unfortunate 

voyage in 1628). The mizzen mast is the only non-original mast on the Vasa. 

A new one was manufactured and mounted. The foremast was rigged and 

the Main shroud was put up. The shrouds supports the masts from the sides 

and backward. 

1994. In the spring, the Vasa's biggest stay - mainstay – was mounted. It is 

30 metres long and weighs half a ton. Before it was put up, it had been 

stretched for two years, in order to avoid a slack in the rig. (The stays 

supports the masts forward) Also mizzen mast was rigged. 

1995. Maintop and mizzen top was put up. Over the tops, the caps were 

mounted. The caps would have held further sections of the masts, sections 

that werr probably removed in the 17th century. The Vasa Museum's 

exhibition "The Sailing Ship" was opened, showing the Vasa's extant sails - 

the oldest in the world!In the end of the year the spritsail top was mounted 

and that concluded the rigging of the Vasa. When the 17th century warships 

were laid up on land for the winter, the upper parts of the rig were removed. 

The goal of the work on the Vasa's rig and masts has been to make her look 

like one of these 17th century warships being in "winter hibernation". This 

goal has now been reached. 

215

Trondheim the History 


This is slightly updated and modified exercept from the book: "Trondheim the 

city on the Nidelv River"(Aune Kunstforlag, Trondheim , ?). It is prepared for 

hypertext by Ragnvald Larsen. All maps and pictures ©Ragnvald Larsen, 

except where otherwise staded. 

Trondheim 

Nearly one thousand years old, and still with the vigour of a youth. This is one 

description which might fit our beloved town. Visiting Trondheim, you will 

arrive to the peninsula between the River Nid and the fjord. This is where you 

will find the merchant centre of Trøndelag, and this is where you will meet the 

essence of our history. Here the European culture is reflected in great 

buildings like the Nidaros Cathedral or the wharves along the River Nid. 

Blended together with our own culture this is something new. This is 

Trondheim. 

The place 

At latitude of 63 degrees N you would not expect to find such lush 

surroundings. Woods and arable land stretches out for miles. This owes 

partly to the fertile deposits from the ice age, and to the profitable climate. In 

these settings, on the relatively small peninsula, families gathered. The 

peninsula provided a natural shelter against both wild animals and 

plundering. By time it became a cradle of the Viking civilization. 

Vikings 

In the days of the Vikings, the heathen Earls of Lade ruled this powerful 

region of Norway. Their fiercest enemies were several royal pretenders to the 

throne of Norway, and with them Christianity. Although Christian, the 

pretenders were seasoned Vikings leading bands of battle-scarred troops. 

The mouth of the River Nid was for them strategically the most advantageous 

harbour of Trøndelag. From here they could control the fief of the Earls of 

Lade. 

In 995 Olav Trygvasson returned to Norway from years in exile. He had won 

repute for being a great viking chief. During a stay in England he bacame a 

Christian. He left England accompanied with several priests and set sail for 

Trondheim, the Norwegian centre of Power, to start christianizing Norway. He 

made Trondheim into a trading centre in 997. He was later slain in defending 

the throne at the battle of Svolder in 1000. This year Leif Eiriksson of 

Greenland set sail from this Trondheim town to cross the Atlantic where he 

discovered America (Vinland). The next king to take up residence in 

Trondheim was Olaf Haraldsson. His keen interest of christianizing Norway 

cost him his life at Stiklestad the 29. of july in 1030. Due to the legend of the 

miraculous preservation of King Olaf he bacame a christian martyr and soon 

Norway's patron saint (St. Olaf). Subsequently Trondheim gained a reputation 

as a pilgrimage centre. 

Another king residing in Trondheim were King Harald Hardr&ring;de. In 1066 

he sailed from Trondheim in his bid to conquer England. He fell at Stamford 

Bridge, a well known in English history. 

The Church and it's Power 

The kings moved away, but by then the town had become the seat of a 

powerful archbishop whose authority was built on the sainthood of King Olav 

whose shrine stood on the altar of the Church of Christ. This church was 

extended and finally became an imposing Gothic cathedral (The Nidaros 

Cathedral). It was destroyed by a fire in 1328 and later it was to be ravished 

by fire several times. In 1869 the spirit of the national revival in Norway led to 

a new drive to restore this national monument in all its glory. The job has 

taken more than a hundred years, and the church is still not complete. In the 

Middle Ages the archbishops built their palatial recidence in stone close to the 

cathedral. Parts of it was severely damaged by fire in 1983, but is now being 

restored. Another close neighbour in Trondheim is the Cathedral School 

whose history dates back about 900 years. 

216

Reformation 

But the protestant Reformation in 1536 reduced Trondheim overnight to an 

insignificant provincial town. About a hundred years later though the city saw 

an influx of foreign merchant families who established small trading empires 

in Trondheim. The merchants built themselves large mansions in the 

architectural style of the panelled wooden buildings typical of this region of 

Norway. Stiftsgården, now the royal residence in Trondheim, is preserved 

and is a masterpiece of this architectural style. 

Town fires 

Town fires were frequent as the town's wooden buildings were set closely 

together on narrow streets. After the Hornemann fire in 1681, the King 

comissioned general J.S. v Cicignon to plan a new town with broad streets so 

that fires could be contained. Cicignon's town plan with 33-metre broad 

streets did not prevent fires. However, it is still in evidence in the central parts 

of the town. By building Kristiansten fort and new fort on Munkholmen (a 

small island) Cicignon put Trondheim on the map again as an important 

outpost in the north-west corner of Europe. 

River, Fjord and Expansion 

In the 19th century the 800-year-old river based 

harbour became too small to serve the 

international traffic of steamboats and a 

fledgling railway system. The sandbanks off the 

shore formed the basis of a large reclamation 

project that provided the town with vast new 

areas for expanding its harbour and railway 

terminal. Around the turn of the century 

Trondheim started expanding beyond the triangular peninsula, across the 

river eastward, westward and southward. The new urban areas have modern 

one-family houses as well as large blocks of flats. A large suburban 

community has been built at Heimdal, south of Trondheim. Industry and 

commerce too look beyond the town centre for expansion and new 

possibilities. 

Although most of the harbour is well developed parts of it retain areas for 

sports and recreation. The yachting club is found in the Skansen area, just 

outside the old townport. Here the members meet for a weekly regatta. In July 

1997 Trondheim will host the Cutty Shark Tall Ships Race. The picture to the 

right is from Skansen in the middle of January. 

Today 

This town in the middle of Norway is 

constantly changing and developing. In 

Norway it is a well-known centre for 

commerce, administration and education. 

NUST, the Norwegian University of 

Science and Technology, traces its roots 

back to 1759, has about 16000 (1993) 

students. There are also a number of other 

institutions of higher learning. Trondheim 

provides room both for economic and personal development. It´s attractive 

surroundings offer great possibilities for open-air pursuits. Here the 

Munkholmen Island should be mentioned. Trondheim also lies in the vicinity 

of several mountain areas, where it is possible to go hiking both winter and 

summer. 

Our visitors are can enjoy the passages of the older parts of the town; go for 

a walk in "Bakklandet", watch the wharves along the river Nid, have a stop at 

the fishmarket "Ravnkloa". And when you are tired, the parks in city centre of 

Trondheim provides lush surroundings where both young and old can find 

rest. 

All of this can be found in a town that blends old and new and is as attractive 

on a winter day covered with snow as it is on a light summer night when a 

passing twilight is the only trace of night that the haunting Nordic summer 

offers. 

217

218

2005 Scandinavia and UK Book.pdf - jimrussell.id.au

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?